Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
kukana d

HELP,PLEASE!

Recommended Posts

susan.

all affected fish need to be treated. here, we're recommeding a simple treatment plan that we know will help you to cure the ich problem, secondary infection problem including the fish that you showed is suffering from dropsy.

70% wc's daily

salt to 0.3% ( up 0.1% in12 hour intervals)

heat to 80F

if you like, to keep the water as sterile as possible, melafix at half the recommeded dose stated on the bottle.

metronidazole gelfood until your MetroMeds arrive.

if you are adding the current Metronidazole to gelfood, there is no need to dissolve it 100%.. crushing it with a spoon to fine powder is fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

susan.

all affected fish need to be treated. here, we're recommeding a simple treatment plan that we know will help you to cure the ich problem, secondary infection problem including the fish that you showed is suffering from dropsy.

70% wc's daily

salt to 0.3% ( up 0.1% in12 hour intervals)

heat to 80F

if you like, to keep the water as sterile as possible, melafix at half the recommeded dose stated on the bottle.

metronidazole gelfood until your MetroMeds arrive.

if you are adding the current Metronidazole to gelfood, there is no need to dissolve it 100%.. crushing it with a spoon to fine powder is fine.

Yes,I understand.

And,I agree-it is a simple plan,but for me to do a 70% w/c on the the pond in addition to these inside fish is quite literally impossible to do in a 24 hr period. I could perhaps empty the pond of approx 70% ,and leave the ro running over night-that MIGHT work. I have to use r/o water-the ammo comes out of my tap at 1,and the nitrites fluctuate-yesterday they were .25. I only mentioned the Parinox b/c of the sheer volume of water in the pond. The metro in the pond will be a crap-shoot,No way to weigh and be sure each fish gets x amount.

Ok,I will just add the metro-it was already in a in the consistency of sugar to start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

try to get the metro finer.. crush it with a spoon. i thought it was tablet form and i created a vid for you, but i won't need to post it now as your metro is already crushed.. just get a clean chopping board (prefer plastic) crush that metronidazole to fine as fine can be.. sugar granules are too big.

for the pond. drop the water level to what's needed to nurse ALL the affected fish. can it be heated? is it indoors?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

I was going to say that but I didn't know if it was the right thing...

I have 1ppm ammonia out of the tap too. Double dose of Prime and a few hours with the biological filter takes care of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i agree with alex. daily wc's really need to happen as well as replenishing the salt at it's current level at the time of waterchange.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you, Elli. I thought it was you who had the tap ammonia, but I didn't want to stick foot in mouth. LOL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

try to get the metro finer.. crush it with a spoon. i thought it was tablet form and i created a vid for you, but i won't need to post it now as your metro is already crushed.. just get a clean chopping board (prefer plastic) crush that metronidazole to fine as fine can be.. sugar granules are too big.

for the pond. drop the water level to what's needed to nurse ALL the affected fish. can it be heated? is it indoors?

The pond is outside,uit it's possible to heat it-I assume it will get up to 80-I've just never done it. I will drop it to 100-150g. The filter is well established. What is the duration of this treatment? I am assuming 18 or so fish will do ok w/ that if it's just for 2 weeks. The small,new fish is gone.The dropsied Oranda is upside down.

The metro is finer than sugar and is not dissloving-I have added it to the food so I can get some into them tonight.

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

So,you don't think it will shock the fish to go from 80% r/o to the ammonia/nitrite tap? My fish have done infinitely better on the 75-80% ro/20-25% tap combination. It really scares me to go back to all tap-I can smell the chemicals in it as it comes out. I'm not totally unwilling to do it,but it makes me nervous.

Alex,I should send you the water analysis I had done,but it doesn't seem to show much and the levels do fluctuate. The local water co. gave me some story about it shouldn't-BUT IT DOES!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

I was going to say that but I didn't know if it was the right thing...

I have 1ppm ammonia out of the tap too. Double dose of Prime and a few hours with the biological filter takes care of it.

I'm sorry,I did not see this before my last post-thank you. Maybe it's worth a shot............Do you have nitrites too?

Edited by kukana

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure that it does fluctuate, and what they probably meant is that it doesn't fluctuate enough for them to actually take action.

As for the tap versus. RO issue, here are my thoughts:

- I'm not suggesting you change cold turkey. I would do 75/25 as you've done, then 50/50, then 25/75, then 100% tap. The advantage to the tap over RO is that all the minerals that were lacking should be present in sufficient quantities, so you do not need to mess with the water beyond giving it Prime & BIU.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure that it does fluctuate, and what they probably meant is that it doesn't fluctuate enough for them to actually take action.

As for the tap versus. RO issue, here are my thoughts:

- I'm not suggesting you change cold turkey. I would do 75/25 as you've done, then 50/50, then 25/75, then 100% tap. The advantage to the tap over RO is that all the minerals that were lacking should be present in sufficient quantities, so you do not need to mess with the water beyond giving it Prime & BIU.

Ok,I'm willing to give it a shot on all tanks EXCEPT my British Veil tank-i'll see how the rest do. How quickly do you think it's safe to take it down? If I'm at 80/20 now,what would be safe to do tomorrow? Then when to drop it again?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure that it does fluctuate, and what they probably meant is that it doesn't fluctuate enough for them to actually take action.

As for the tap versus. RO issue, here are my thoughts:

- I'm not suggesting you change cold turkey. I would do 75/25 as you've done, then 50/50, then 25/75, then 100% tap. The advantage to the tap over RO is that all the minerals that were lacking should be present in sufficient quantities, so you do not need to mess with the water beyond giving it Prime & BIU.

Ok,I'm willing to give it a shot on all tanks EXCEPT my British Veil tank-i'll see how the rest do. How quickly do you think it's safe to take it down? If I'm at 80/20 now,what would be safe to do tomorrow? Then when to drop it again?

You could do daily 5% decrease in RO/5% increase in tap, I think. What's really important is that you must check your water parameters about daily to see that the extra ammonia and nitrites presented by the tap is getting processed by the filter. The filter may need a day or two to catch up, but 5% changes is small enough that this should work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

I was going to say that but I didn't know if it was the right thing...

I have 1ppm ammonia out of the tap too. Double dose of Prime and a few hours with the biological filter takes care of it.

I'm sorry,I did not see this before my last post-thank you. Maybe it's worth a shot............Do you have nitrites too?

No, I don't, but at .25 ppm the Prime would take care of that as well. I think it would make things a lot easier for you. Sounds like a pain messing with the RO thingy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, I don't, but at .25 ppm the Prime would take care of that as well. I think it would make things a lot easier for you. Sounds like a pain messing with the RO thingy.

I agree completely.

Susan, what is your RO pH versus tap pH versus tank pH?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I am a little confused about this. I know that you said that you have 1 ppm ammonia and sometimes a little bit of nitrite out of tap, and while that's not ideal, your tank's biological filter, along with double dosing Prime, should be able to deal with that easily, once it adapts to the situation.

I would strongly suggest that you perhaps re-think using tap, as opposed to R/O. This way, you are able to do more frequent, larger, and faster water changes.

I was going to say that but I didn't know if it was the right thing...

I have 1ppm ammonia out of the tap too. Double dose of Prime and a few hours with the biological filter takes care of it.

I'm sorry,I did not see this before my last post-thank you. Maybe it's worth a shot............Do you have nitrites too?

No, I don't, but at .25 ppm the Prime would take care of that as well. I think it would make things a lot easier for you. Sounds like a pain messing with the RO thingy.

Do you just add the Prime 1x,but at 2x the strength? Because the Prime is good for 48 hrs. and the filter cycle takes care of it in that time?

No, I don't, but at .25 ppm the Prime would take care of that as well. I think it would make things a lot easier for you. Sounds like a pain messing with the RO thingy.

I agree completely.

Susan, what is your RO pH versus tap pH versus tank pH?

That was back in my original post-BUT that was after adding the buffers. Here it is:

1out of tap:

ammo-1

nitrites-0(was .25 yesterday)

nitrates-0 (was 5 yesterday)

ph-8.2

gh- 7/8

kh-6

2 after ro/di/mineralizer:

ammo-0

nitrite-0

Did not test nitrates-about to run out of those drops-but usually 0 at this stage

ph-8.8(could be higher-test only goes that far)

gh-4.5

kh-4

Current tank(water change and buffers yesterday)(over past 3 days there has been at least 4 50% w/cs-I kept thinking it would help):

ammo-.25(I fed 2x yesterday to be sure still hungry-they were!)

nitrites-0

nitrates-10

ph-8

gh-8

kh-4/5

Alex,w/o the buffer,but w/ r/o= tap it runs about 7.4-maybe a tad higher.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I add it all at once, twice the normal amount. So 2 capfuls per 50 gallons.

And yes, if I test the next day the ammonia is back to 0.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would definitely begin the acclimating to 100% tap water, as discussed. This will create a much stronger biological filter in your tank, take care of the gH/mineral issue, and allow you to do a lot of water changes in a reasonable time frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MJ,if you're around,I want to thank you soooo much for your kind offer :heart I think between the food I made tonight,and getting GFC to over-night-we should be covered.Again,thank you so much :heart

Thank you EVERYONE :heart you guys have been awesome and amazing :heart I was chasing down Water Road,and if you guys would not have responded the way you did,I'm sure I would have more than 1 goner tonight.THANK YOU :heart THANK YOU :heart THANK YOU :heart :heart :heart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alex,they weigh 4.9 oz,5.35 oz,3.7 oz.

Sorry I didn't answer this before now.

The weights of the three fish in grams are 139g, 152g, and 105g. This means that respectively they will need 1.4g, 1.5g, and 1.1g gel food each daily. To make things easier, you could go with 1.5g for each one of them. It's only possible to feed this much food a day if you split it up to 3-6 meals daily.

If you split the medicated gel food you've just made into 24 pieces of equal size, 1 piece is enough for the three of them each day.

Good luck!

Edited by dnalex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

susan, we still need to know how many fish you will be treating and how many gallons the fish you are treating will be in. please answer this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry you lost one of your babies :( I do hope all this madness will end soon :) are the pond babies all sick as well ?? Great advise already so nothing more to add ;) I will be keeping my fingers crossed for you all :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks very serious, Susan. I'm pretty sure those are not white spots on all of them. I think it's due to bad water and bacterial infection. I can also see their tails are starting to streak.(tail rot)

You have to act quickly, they are already in a very advance stage now. If it's still not too late already, my choice of treatment is to do a series salt dip (3x) of 2.5% for 5mins max. immediately then again the following day if they can tolerate it. After the salt dip place them in 0.3%--0.5% salt solution and follow by any antibiotics which you may be planning to administer. I don't think they have the appetite to eat now so only solution it to add it into water.

Salt dip will strip body slime and pave way for more effective treatment.

Melafix can be considered as one option after the salt dips. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Lionchu,

I'm glad you posted, and agree that there is quite a bit more going on here than just the white spot. I am normally a big proponent of salt dips for stripping slime coat and to kill off a lot of things quickly. My concern here is that just by going with the one pic where you can see cysts on the eyes, I am going to guess that the gills are fried by this point. Do you think that they will survive the salt dip in such a state? I worry that it might push them over the edge. Having said that, I agree that things are at a very critical state, if not already too late.

Susan, were you able to feed them the food last night and today? Waterborne meds may be necessary if they are not eating, as said up above.

Edited by dnalex

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was just about to suggest a salt dip too. I would worry maybe about using PP with sensitive gills. But if anything, I think the salt will help clean out all the excess mucus which must be stuck in the gills by now. SHould help them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me how much salt to add to 1 gallon to get 2.5% ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...