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Pontosfan

Blood in fins... still!

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    Test Results for the Following:
  • * Ammonia Level
  • * Nitrite Level 15 mg/l
  • * Nitrate level 1 mg/l
  • * Ph Level, Tank 7 (KH: 5*d; GH: 16*d; chlorine: 0 mg/l)
  • * Ph Level, Tap 7.2 (KH: 3*d; GH: 16*d; chlorine: 0.8 mg/l)
    Other Required Info:
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Tetra 6in1 Strips
  • * Water temperature? No thermometer.
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 160L running fro aprox' 3 weeks, maybe more.
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Fluval U4
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? I had been changing it quite often (once every day, and then every 2 to 3 days) but on the reccomendation of the man who works at the fish shop I left it for a week.

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Earlier today; about 60-70%.
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3, range from about 2 to 3 inches.
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Stress Coat +; Nutrafin Cycle and Tetra Easy Balance.
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Hikari Lionhead once a day and something live once every one or two weeks. Sometimes peas.
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? All of them are new to the tank, they upgraded.
  • * Any medications added to the tank? No.
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. I've had the fish for years, there's no way I can remember all the medication they've ever had.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? 2 of the fish have noticable red veins in their tail fins, and one of them has some blood streaking. Also, the front of Dizzy's pectoral fins are looking a bit white. That's the best I can describe it.
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? The two with these symtoms often stay in one corner at the back of the tank. Some days they swim around more than others.

It seems I still have a problem with my fish although it has gotten better. Pontos (crown pearlscale) and Dizzy (Ranchu) have had blood in their tails (as mentioned above). Many on here, as well as the man at the LFS, suggested that it was because my pH was very low (six point something I think). I bought a rock of cacium carbonate I think it was that has been steadily increasing the pH of the tank water. Yesterday I did another test on my tap water and it seemed to have shot up to a pH of 8! So, I did a large water change today and have now finally got the pH to 7. Yay! But my fish still have blood in their fins, they still keep going to that corner at the bcak of the tank and, unbelieveably, even though I did a big water change I'm still getting a nitrite reading of 1mg/l which I was told was probably caused by the low pH.

So am I expecting to see results too soon? Afterall, I did only do the water change a few hours ago. But where am I getting this nitrite reading from? Is it not going to continue to cause problems?

Edited by Pontosfan

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I wonder why you still aren't cycled... hmmm

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we know not to listen to fish shop ppl. if you're uncycled, still, you need to do daily wc's until you cycle, order some API drop test kits. they're more accurate. who knows? you may already be cycled and the test strips are calling your bluff?

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I'm just throwing out random ideas:

Is there enough filter MEDIA to sustain a large enough colony of BBs? These ready to use cartridges for filters often don't have enough room for BBs to keep up with the toxins.

As Helen suggested, a drop test kit will help either way, since it is more accurate. These 6 in 1 strips used to show me nitrites for the longest time, but the drops showed 0. But fishless cycling usually take about 40 days, cycling with fish and increased water changes takes even longer. Nutrafin Cycle definitely will support during this time.

Just to make sure, you have 15mg/l nitrite? That is very dangerous, and could be the cause of the red streaks. Was that reading before or after the water change?

I am honestly not familiar with the Stress Coat and Easy Balance products. Are they necessary? Do they condition the water? Although the water has to be conditioned for the tank, and minerals used to keep the pH stable, additional chemicals could be irritating the fish. Some fish are more sensitive than others, especially during cycling when there are still toxins in the tank.

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A ph drop from 8 to 7 in one water change is very stressful for your fish and may account for the continued redness.

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The only other thing that stands out to me is feeding live food. If it comes from a non -sterile source that could be the issues. If the reddness gets worse after feeding the live food that would be a good indicator.

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