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Ugh! ich!


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  • Regular Member

I salted with scaleless fish (yoyo loaches and emerald green corys) without a problem, and upped the temp to 85. Otos are scaleless? I didn't know that!

Here's what I did... it worked like a charm, got rid of the ich, and none of the fish seemed to suffer, they all still ate and acted normally. Still, I think otos are less hardy than those species so it's up to you if you want to try it, it's a gamble.

Day 1

Water change

Increase the water temperature to 80F

Add 1 Tablespoon of salt per 20 US Gallons of water

Day 2

Increase the water temperature to 82F

Add 1 Tablespoon of salt per 40 US Gallons of water.

Day 3

Increase the water temperature to 84F

Add 1 Tablespoon of salt per 40 US Gallons of water.

Day 4

Increase the water temperature to 85F

Add 1 Tablespoon of salt per 40 US Gallons of water.

Days 5, 6, 7 and 8

Do nothing

Day 9

Perform a 20% WC.

Decrease the water temperature to 84F

Day 10

Perform a 20% WC.

Decrease the water temperature to 82F

Day 11

Perform a 20% WC.

Decrease the water temperature to 80F

Day 12

Perform a 20% WC.

Decrease the water temperature to 78F

I think the Kordon ich attack is safe for them too.

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  • Regular Member

Otos have scutes so theyre not scaless in the same way loaches etc are, and this apparently means theyre not prone to catching ich.

Is it the other fish that have ich and your concerned about salting/medicating because of the Otos? if so id suggest seperating the Otos while you treat the main tank.

Otos can get acclimitisation stress easily though so be sure to move them carefully and make sure the water theyre moved to matches what theyre in now.

I will say ive used medications in tanks with Otos and not had a problem, but theyre reputed to be sensitive fish so if youre worried maybe just seperate them out.

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I lost an oto before this outbreak, so I'm guessing the stress of the betta bite Skitters had contributed to the full blown outbreak. So all methods need to include my remaining oto because I know not of Skats contamination... Also, when would it be safe to add fish again after I treat, because I need to get buddies for Skat to lower her stress. Also I'm thinking of going med route since my female Mollie is covered and in bad condition.

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Hmm, if youre sure she needs treating too then I think in that case youll just have to go for it and treat the whole tank and hope the Oto doesnt take too unkindly to it.

Id say use your usual method of dealing with ich, or if this is your first case of it or youre unsure what to do, then follow the guide Happysnapper posted above, if it worked for her hopefully it should for you.

What I would say is that when I kept Mollies, I found some of them were really prone to ich if kept in freshwater, they can live in fully freshwater but it can affect their immune system to do so for long periods, because theyre originally brackish water fish.

I think that even though its widely touted you can keep them in fresh most breeders or keepers recommend slightly brackish water as optimal. Obviously that limits tankmates and plant choices though :(

I think living in freshwater plus the likelyhood of being inbred can make some of them disease prone unfortunately, but that just my opinion of course.

Edited by Lucerne
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Sadly the Mollie who was pregnant in her 5th week died due to the combined stress of medication, ich, and troublesome pregnancy. The otos are unhappy with clamped fins, but I think thats due to ich on their bodies. The med I got was something with able use in half dosage. The ich is receding in 80 degree water with the meds nicely tho, but I will miss Sweetie the lyre tail creamsicle. :(

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