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Anti-Chlorine?


pinkskitty93

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I bought an anti-chlorine. Not the Tetra brand though.

I used it and I'm not sure if I should immediately put my fish back in the tank. Should I wait more than an hour for the anti-chlorine to work and not poison my fish?

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How are you cleaning the tank? Do you still remove the fish?

Please do NOT remove the fish when you attempt to clean the tank otherwise, you'll only add stress to your fish. They don't like to be moved around and the more the fish are moved, the more they can likely succumb to parasites which they currently have as the stress takes its toll on them.

All your tank needs is changing of a portion of old tank water, preferably 50-60% and then vacuuming of the debris settling at the bottom. They can stay there while you remove a PORTION of the tank water.

If you are changing water by bucket method, the new water can simply be dosed with dechlorinator (follow dosing instruction on the bottle provided) and you can immediately pour the water to the tank but do it slowly so as not to stress the fish from the sudden pouring of the water since the 10g has very limited space for both of them.

Just for reference, dechlorinators instantly bind the chlorine and chloramine as long as you are using the right dosage as instructed. No need to wait longer than that.

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Perhaps it's superfluous, but I just wanted to emphasize the good advice that's already been given..

You can think of the dechlorinator like adding ink to water: if you swish it around a bit, the water immediately turns a homogeneous blue. Dechlorinators work on the same time scale as that. If you add water with buckets, you can indeed just put the right amount for the bucket volume in each bucket, and because it slushed when in falls into the tank, it mixes automatically. If add water directly from your tap, then from what I've heard from other people, you simply add the total needed amount into your tank before you add the new water.

It's really, really important to minimize the stress your fish experience. As Lupin already mentioned, stress + bad water quality are (among) the main reasons for why a goldfish gets sick, because these factors affect how well your fish can fight of a (parasite) infection. If you simply (and of course carefully) vacuum the muck that builds up on the bottom, and then drain some more water until you have removed 30-60% of your water, then you've completed a textbook water-change.

Hope this helps :).

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Is it okay to add water directly to the tank with the Python hose as long I add Prime to the water? It really work instantly on contact? What if I pour in Prime into the tank and it starts to dissolve before I start the water? What if Prime did not terminate all of the Chlorine in time when I add water into the tank?

Would love to do quickie water changes, but to be safe, I am still adding water with prepared buckets.

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It's gonna be fine. It distributes evenly fast and I know that at least some of the long time members on here add the required prime to the tank before they re fill it. Considering it is only 2 drops per gallon needed, it won't harm the fish if the water is refilled soon enough.

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I used to turn my filter off add prime then tap water until full then turn the filter back on. That way no chlorine got in the filter media.

Now I put half the Prime near the filter intake and some near the outflow and I don't turn turn the filter off but I wait a few minutes for old water to circulate with Prime. I am not entirely comfortable with this though.

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I know when I add new water, my fluval filter has a lever to stop the water coming in and out, and when the prime is added and swished around, I pull the lever up again and start the filter. All safe :)

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