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RichyB

New Tank

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Hello All

Returning after a few years sans Goldies...I was waiting for the right time to set up my tank.

Anyhow, my son won 3 fish at a fairground...typical...I flipped out, foreseeing the expense of a 30gallon tanks and stand. Thankfully I have some goodies in a box like my 60 gal filter to get running.

Hitting a few snags. Prob is tank not fully cycled...because I wasn't ready to own again but that's besides the point now.

...they now have ich, dart about with clamped fins and look generally mad at me, though their eating is ok.

Tank has been up a week and I have added, a real plant from my 10 gal trop tank, and a fake plant from my trop tank, also put in a dirty filter bag to generate the bio filter. Today I bought & added Biozyme. Levels showed some Ammo last nite so I changed 60%, added, salt, stress coat and turned up the heater to 80. Put some backing poster around the outside corner of the tank so they have a hiding spot.

Levels look ok for Ammo today but I'll check before bed.

I am guessing I could have introduced ich from the trop tank even though those fish are fine.. the parasites probably can't get a strong foot hold there bu t with stressed goldies...they have ran riot.

I'm focusing the efforts on getting the bio filter running rather than medicating the water at this stage. What are your thoughts?

Edited by RichyB

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Hello All

Returning after a few years sans Goldies...I was waiting for the right time to set up my tank.

Anyhow, my son won 3 fish at a fairground...typical...I flipped out, foreseeing the expense of a 30gallon tanks and stand. Thankfully I have some goodies in a box like my 60 gal filter to get running.

Hitting a few snags. Prob is tank not fully cycled...because I wasn't ready to own again but that's besides the point now.

...they now have ich, dart about with clamped fins and look generally mad at me, though their eating is ok.

Tank has been up a week and I have added, a real plant from my 10 gal trop tank, and a fake plant from my trop tank, also put in a dirty filter bag to generate the bio filter. Today I bought & added Biozyme. Levels showed some Ammo last nite so I changed 60%, added, salt, stress coat and turned up the heater to 80. Put some backing poster around the outside corner of the tank so they have a hiding spot.

Levels look ok for Ammo today but I'll check before bed.

I am guessing I could have introduced ich from the trop tank even though those fish are fine.. the parasites probably can't get a strong foot hold there bu t with stressed goldies...they have ran riot.

I'm focusing the efforts on getting the bio filter running rather than medicating the water at this stage. What are your thoughts?

I brought Edgar home from the fair, she came with ich but I didn't know until it had almost killed her! I was told to begin salting and increasing the tank temp. not to worry about my cycle because if theres no fish left alive then no point in cycling right? Wait for a mod or more experienced fishlover comes along to give more sound advice, but that's been my experience with it.

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What EdgarTheFish said is so true in my opinion. You want to treat the ich as soon as possible, because left untreated it is very deadly. The good news is that all you need to treat ich is a heater set to 80 degrees and aquarium salt, and this should not hurt your beneficial bacteria very much, if at all. With the temp that high you are going to want a lot of extra aeration in there though, so any extra air stones you have should go in asap. Make sure you use aquarium salt, not just any table salt because that has additives that are harmful. Below I will give a brief explanation of treating ich in goldfish, but please try to get a picture of the white spots and post it on here first if you can. I do not doubt your fish experience, and I'm sure you are correct that it's truly ich, but it never hurts to get a second (or 3rd or 4th) opinion. :) Also we will need some concrete answers to some questions just to make sure that everything else is good in the tank. Please answer the following to the best of your ability:

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?

[*]Nitrite Level?

[*]Nitrate level?

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[*]Water temperature?

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)?

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size?

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often?

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?

[*]Any medications added to the tank?

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

If you truly do have ich, here is how you will need to treat it:

At first you want to bring the salt up to .1% by adding one teaspoon per gallon. If the fish show no signs of added stress from the salt, then 12 hours later add another teaspoon per gallon bringing the concentration up to .2%. Again if the fish continue to show no added stress from the salt, 12 hours later you can add another 1 teaspoon per gallon bringing it up to .3%. This means that a total of 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon will be in the tank. During this time, continue to monitor the water quality and if ammonia or nitrite get higher than .25 you will need to do a water change. When you remove the water for the water change, you are also removing the salt though so you will need to add back in however much salt you took out. If/when you run into this situation and need help, we can help you through that.

The increased heat will make the life cycle of the ich faster, which means you can kill them faster. The salt can only kill them when they are free-swimming, so don't be alarmed if things seem to get a little bit worse before they get better.

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Update to all.

Fish more mobile this morning. Tail fins are open... top fins still clamped but they're swimming and not hiding in the corner. Running water tests now and will probably have to take out some and replenish. Good opportunity to vacuum and then get more salt in though. I went straight to .3% because they looked really sad and "salty" yesterday (if I were a fish....looking salty would not sound like something I wanted to have said about me). They have responded well and that's nice to see.

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In the future, it's best to increase the salt by 0.1% every 12-24 hours. If you go right to 0.3% it can shock the fish.

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also, dont forget that when you take out water for the water change you are also removing salt.

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In the future, it's best to increase the salt by 0.1% every 12-24 hours. If you go right to 0.3% it can shock the fish.

I honestly don't think the fish had that long...drastic measures.

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