Jump to content

New Fish, Ich, White Poo, Lice: Stressed In Fish Keeping


Guest fukkochan

Recommended Posts

Guest fukkochan

hi all! i'm quite new to fish keeping.... i juz bought 2 ryukins and they are definitely sick! =(

they have salt-look-alike things on them, which i read about diagnosed as ich and then i found one green round disc-shaped thing on one tail fin, scraped it off with my nail and it has 2 black eyes! size is 2mm. and now both of my fishes are pooping white hair-look-alike poo! i'm soo stressed! i worry so much for them, they are such a cutie, i want them to live happily and healthily! my sis has been telling me to take it back and switch it with some other fishes but i don't want to! i need help... thanx in advance!

i put them into an 19 litres tank as a quarantine tank because i don't want to mix them with the big group in the 15 gallons yet, i know you have to quarantine new fishes and i'm sooo glad i did this! the tank now has 0.3% salt (this is the safest way to help with ich according to this website) and i don't feel like adding any medication yet until i know what i have to do

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?i don't know

[*]Nitrite Level?i don't know

[*]Nitrate level?i don't know

------i don't really know how to test for these with only 0.3% salt concentration... should i follow saltwater aquarium testing?

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? i don't use my tap water, i use mineral water

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[*]Water temperature?31 degrees Celsius centigrade

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?19 litres tank, been set up since 2 days ago, this is the third as quarantine tank

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? hang on back filter

[*]How often do you change the water and how much? i change 30% daily now and not to forget to keep salt concentration at 0.3% (1 teaspoon of salt per litre)

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size?2 ryukin at around 12cm more or less

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? none

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often? tetra pellets, twice a day

[*]Any new fish added to the tank? nope, this is the quarantine tank

[*]Any medications added to the tank? only salt

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? grains of salt, many many many grains!!! i think there are other white spots that are not grains of salt, looks like fungus to me, the colour is whitish cream, but not crystal look-alike , so now the fishes have grains of salt and whitish cream dots!

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? they still eat, but now one fish has white hair string poo the length of almost 25cm! *sob*

i think this case of ich is considered advance, since the number of grains of salt almost cover the lower half of the fish! (from tummy down to tail) i really think i should put some medicine! my town has limited amount of medicine such as pimafix (the ones i read online) they do have some germany imported medications for white spots (ich) should i get that? or should i treat the internal bacterial infection first? can i treat them together? but i read you don't mix metronidazole with salt (according to trinket on this forum) is it possible to continue treating with salt and feeding gel food made of pellets and metronidazole? will that be no good too? please help.... i fear for their lives :cry1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

hey there.

first of all you can test your water with the normal test kits of sweet water.

when you say 'large tank' - how many fish do you have in there? 19liters is really not enough for 2 goldies. you need about 40-50 EACH.

your water is a bit on the warm side - try and go down a few degrees.

for the ich the warm temp (around 26-27) and the salt will be enough. make sure you clean the floor well at each water change. if you have two in such a tiny tank you need to do at least 80% water changes 2x a day.

as for the poop it could be interior parasites - try and check if you can get any medicated food in your area - such as Jungle Food.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Ok first things first, on a tank that size you need to be doing 80% water changes every day.

Second, salt is 1 teaspoon per GALLON, that's 1 teaspoon every 4 litres, not one, you have too much salt in there!!!

Next up, a 15 gallon tank is never going to be big enough for those two fish on their own let alone with any others, they need 10 gallons(40 litres) per fish. You need to look into getting a tank big enough for all your fish or look into rehoming/returning some of them.

The white poop is a sign of stress, in itself it's not a problem.

Do you have a small heater? If you can you should slowly raise the temperature in the QT tank to 80'F to speed up the lifecycle of the ich. Add 1 teaspoon per 4 litres (about 4 1/2 total for you) to bring the salt up to 0.01%. 12 hours later add another 4 1/2 teaspoons to bring you up to 0.02% and 12 hours after that do the third lot of 4 1/2 teaspoons to bring you to 0.03%. You will have 13 1/2 teaspoons total. If you remove 80% of the water you remove 80% of the salt (11 teaspoons at 0.03%) and will need to add this back after each water change.

As your tank is new and you don't know the parameters I'm going to assume your tank is not cycled. This makes it even more important that you do the water changes, twice a day would be better at 80%, to keep the ammonia at levels so it is not too toxic. High levels of ammonia are FATAL and in sick fish they rise quicker than in healthy fish. I really recommend you look into getting a liquid drops test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate asap so you can monitor them.

Best of luck and keep us informed of their progress!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

hi! thanx for e super fast responses! my fishes are still babies, the full grown ones are as big as my palm, i will get another tank that is biiiig but i figure i should start with baby fishes and 15 gallon tank.. the start was owkay but i realise there are more to it for fish keeping! i really thank this website and the people because i read a lot from this forum =D i will get another tank 2 more months when the fishes have grown a little

i only have this one 19 litre tank for the quarantine tank, and the 2 ryukins are babies with tails and everything they are only at about 10cm max. i really2 wanna make this work >.<

i didn't know that that was too much salt!! i'll do a water change after i finish typing this! i have an ammonia test kit and pH too, but not the rest.. the tank is used but i bleached the tank 1 week ago and left it to dry afterwards so it can be considered new? the water is not cycled... should i get water from the main tank? or should i just supply the fishes with fresh mineral water all the way until 2 weeks from now? since i will be doing 80% water change, not 30% now that i know!

my ammonia test kit has 3 bottles of drops that should be put into test water in it, 6 drops of each for test water, 10ml per test for fresh water, 5ml per test for salt water, how much ml should i put into the glass tube for the test water?

the white poo is super thin , really2 like hair, and now i think it measures up to almost 30cm! is that stress? or is it because they have too much salt? only 1 is pooping white, the other poos green when e pellets are brown

should i not feed them anything? should i just treat the ich first then the white poo later? i'm afraid if they don't take nutritious in, they cannot fight the ich? please tell me what i need to do before it's morning again because i have to work tomorrow morning >.< :krazy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I think the white poop is definitely stress from the high salt and probably poor water.

Even with the salt your water still counts as fresh so you need 10ml for your test kit.

It's best to get the full size tank for your fish right from the start, goldfish release a growth hormone, particularly when stressed, that if it builds up in high amounts will stunt their growth and this can cause serious health problems and often early death. I don't think 10cm necessarily counts as 'babies', my smallest hits 7cm including tail and she's over 10 months old. She's actually older than my two big fish (15cm each including tail and still growing), size really is not an implication of age in goldfish, it's only really a sign of upbringing. Those who've been brought up on clean water and good food with enough space will grow much faster than those who haven't. My boyfriend's pearlscale is about the same size as my tiny oranda but is growing faster as he's in a 24 gallon tank on his own, mine is in a 40 gallon tank with two other fish. Fully grown goldfish can hit 20cm, though 15cm is more common and that's not including their tails!!!

Sort the salt out so you're at the right amount, remember to increase it in intervals so they don't get shocked, and keep the water clean, and hopefully your fish will pull through fine. You are going to need to keep doing the water changes every day until you can get them a bigger tank though, you would be amazed at how much waste even the small fish can produce. Test with your ammonia test kit and see how much they produce in just one day between water changes, I think you'll be astonished!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

you have fresh water - even with the salt in it.

start treating the ich and focus on clean water.

even if they are only babies (and 10cm is already quite big) you tank is by far not large enough.

as for the cycling - it is in the filter that cycling happens - not in the water. so taking water from the main tank is useless... just stick to the many+large water changes.

for liters you can weight the salt - 1gram per liter (for 1% etc). don't over salt when you do water changes - I usually do 75% water changes so I know I need 3/4 of salt.

Edited by Captain Findus Goldfish
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

woow...i juz know that devilduck! i thought if they grow a little bit more i'll get another tank... my main tank now has 3 fishes, 1 oranda 10cm, 1 red cap oranda 6cm, 1 pearl 4cm, the pearl is really e size of a kid's marble i'm quite afraid he'll get bullied, but so far, he's still okay... is my main tank considered overstocked? or should i give away 1 fish? i read somewhere that for fancy goldfish u only need 5 gallon per fish?

my main tank tested for 0.5mg/l, combined with pH of water, actual NH3 is 0.009mg/l (according to the manual of e test kit) when it was cycling, i feed e fishies 3 times in small amount daily

btw, should i not feed anything to them while they are in salt treatment?? or feed them once daily at night?

oh no! i should get a big big tank immediately! added together i will have 5 goldfishes! if these two survived :cry1

i just changed the water at 80% so if i do ammonia reading straight after, i think that's considered cheating? i'll do it tomorrow morning before work and let you girls know later! thaaaanx a lot! =D u are angels! :heart =D

i'll focus on ich and clean water first, i'll update on the whitish cream tuft on their tails once the grains of salt are gone! let's pray that the poo is only caused of too much salt and stress >.<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Your main tank is still very overstocked, it's actually only ok for one fancy goldfish, they need 10 gallons each, the common goldfish need 20 gallons each.

You want to try to keep the ammonia below 0.25mg/l, regardless of pH. Ammonia is more toxic with higher pH and higher temperature so with a tank as warm as yours it's very important to keep it as low as possible. I would ignore the 0.009mg/l reading and go with the 0.5mg/l reading.

I would feed the fish once every other day, this will help keep the waste down. Don't worry about feeding too little, they can survive up to two weeks with little or no food and be fine.

It's really important that you keep the salt level at 0.03% at least a week after the last grain falls off the fish, then begin to bring it down again to 0.02%, then 0.01% then 0% over 12 hour intervals, as you added it but in reverse. This makes sure the ich really is dead and that it won't return and be salt resistant, that can cause serious problems if that happens. Can you confirm for me that you are using aquarium salt and not common table salt?

Can you also get some photos of that 'green thing with eyes' if there's any more of them? It might be something like anchorworm or similar. If there are no more I would just keep an eye on the fish, but the salt should help anyway. Parasites are unfortunately very common with new fish :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

oh noooo.... so to keep 5 i need 50gallon of tank? woow that is big! can't wait! =D but i need to save up for that so they might need to suffer 1 more month till pay day :doh11:

oh yikes... and i cannot make the water colder since the outside temperature is commonly 91F more or less all year round! i think the goldfishes here are very very hardy...i'm glad mine remained okay until the tank is cycled :)

is it really okay to feed them sooo little? they always seem sooo happy and beg all the time whenever i come close, when i put my finger in, they bite too :blink: i'll feed them every 2 days from now on then =D thanx for telling me!

how do i tell if the ich are all dead and gone? do you think i should use medication at the last step? to really really make sure that all ich are dead? i'm using aquarium salt that i purchase in petshops :D

i killed the green thingy on my tissue and threw it away so i don't have the picture, actually, this is the second time i killed a green thingy, first time i killed two on a fish that later on i isolated in quarantine tank and after a week he's okay, i bleach the whole quarantine tank and thus lost my good bacteria in the sponge that i bleached too :(

i had thought that it is lice since it's disc-shaped, round and really tiny, the eyes are visible because e eyes are black! i will definitely keep my both eyes on the new fishies >.< ich doesn't react to light, right? or there's a rule about having the lights off with ich killing time?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member
how do i tell if the ich are all dead and gone? do you think i should use medication at the last step? to really really make sure that all ich are dead? i'm using aquarium salt that i purchase in petshops

just keep your eye open to the spots - you should see less and less - when you see ZERO on the fish - then count one week after that (I do 2weeks just to be sure) - you really don't need meds for Ich - the salt and the heat will kill them.

as for the lights - ich I don't think is affected - however, I find lower lighting + darkness relaxes sick fish - so they recover faster.

that does indeed sound like lice. for now you focus on the ich - then we can decide if you have to treat your tank for lice - I know those things lay TONS of eggs - just make sure you pick them off the fish whenever you see them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

owkaay! so totally no grains of salt on fish! will the whitish cream dot (bigger than the grains of salt) count too?

if they lay soo many eggs, does that mean i did not succeed in bleaching my tank? which explains the second finding of the green monster? or maybe that came with the fish 3 days ago?

if i have low lighting throughout treatment, how do i thoroughly check for zero ich?? if i suddenly have a light on them, will it be owkay since they are considered cured 7 days from now when it's time to check?

or should i just keep the lighting on in case there are more of the green monsters (lice)??? :krazy:

ps: i should rest early, working early tomorrow, i'll reply in the morning! =D thank you all! :heart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

:cry1 one of them with the super long poo just died... it doesn't even have that many ich, just 2 spots... so now the only one left i have is the ichy one... i think the white super long poo suggested super infected of the insides of the fish and for 3 days i didn't do anything to it :cry1 could it be different if i gave it metronidazole first then treat the ich for later? :doh11: it's okay, it's in the past, i'll fight for the other one!

what should i do to the water if the other fish died during the night? i don't really know when exactly it was dead for so i'm afraid of bacteria getting out

i saw the ichy fish flashing yesterday night after brushing my teeth, that's the first time i saw a movement that weird and i'm sure it's flashing, it swam very fast towards e bottom and rub its tummy against the bottom with no gravel, did it 4 times! luckily the ichy fish did not have any white poo! so i'll go on treating the ich first like captain findus said!

ammonia level: 0.6mg/l!! immediately did water change after the reading! and will do one more after work

pH level: 7.3

temperature: 86'F

i think when i looked at my fish after the water change which is 80%, it yawned...it looked like it's breathing very hard then it yawned...i swear it looked like a yawn to me, even e eyes are lifted a bit! what does that mean? does that mean it doesn't like the water change? or something is definitely wrong? :krazy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

:cry1 one of them with the super long poo just died... it doesn't even have that many ich, just 2 spots... so now the only one left i have is the ichy one... i think the white super long poo suggested super infected of the insides of the fish and for 3 days i didn't do anything to it :cry1 could it be different if i gave it metronidazole first then treat the ich for later? :doh11: it's okay, it's in the past, i'll fight for the other one!

what should i do to the water if the other fish died during the night? i don't really know when exactly it was dead for so i'm afraid of bacteria getting out

i saw the ichy fish flashing yesterday night after brushing my teeth, that's the first time i saw a movement that weird and i'm sure it's flashing, it swam very fast towards e bottom and rub its tummy against the bottom with no gravel, did it 4 times! luckily the ichy fish did not have any white poo! so i'll go on treating the ich first like captain findus said!

ammonia level: 0.6mg/l!! immediately did water change after the reading! and will do one more after work

pH level: 7.3

temperature: 86'F

i think when i looked at my fish after the water change which is 80%, it yawned...it looked like it's breathing very hard then it yawned...i swear it looked like a yawn to me, even e eyes are lifted a bit! what does that mean? does that mean it doesn't like the water change? or something is definitely wrong? :krazy:

I'm so sorry about your little fish baby :(

If the other fish is yawning it's probably a sign of flukes. Keep up the water changes to get the ammonia down and keep treating with salt to get rid of the ich. Don't stress out and start mixing medicines, try and remain calm, you're doing a good job caring for your fish. The white stringy poo may still be a sign of stress keep us posted on the ich on it though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

owkaay! so totally no grains of salt on fish! will the whitish cream dot (bigger than the grains of salt) count too?

if they lay soo many eggs, does that mean i did not succeed in bleaching my tank? which explains the second finding of the green monster? or maybe that came with the fish 3 days ago?

if i have low lighting throughout treatment, how do i thoroughly check for zero ich?? if i suddenly have a light on them, will it be owkay since they are considered cured 7 days from now when it's time to check?

or should i just keep the lighting on in case there are more of the green monsters (lice)??? :krazy:

ps: i should rest early, working early tomorrow, i'll reply in the morning! =D thank you all! :heart

It doesn't necessarily mean that you did not succeed I think the new fish you got came in extremely unhealthy condition when you bought them.

There should not be any white spots on the fish and they should not be flashing and trying to get it off. Also you should do gravel vacuums to clean up the poop and any eggs in the water. But please don't vacuum all of the gravel as there are beneficial bacteria in the gravel. Vacuum small sections of the gravel only to prevent a cycle crash. This should help in getting up any leftover eggs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

I'm so sorry about your little fish baby :(

If the other fish is yawning it's probably a sign of flukes. Keep up the water changes to get the ammonia down and keep treating with salt to get rid of the ich. Don't stress out and start mixing medicines, try and remain calm, you're doing a good job caring for your fish. The white stringy poo may still be a sign of stress keep us posted on the ich on it though.

thank you, i'm sorry that it died too :(

i did exactly as u typed when i read it: stressing out and start reading what is flukes and how should i deal with it >.< i'll try and remain calm and read and read so i get to know more! thanx for telling me!! =D

It doesn't necessarily mean that you did not succeed I think the new fish you got came in extremely unhealthy condition when you bought them.

There should not be any white spots on the fish and they should not be flashing and trying to get it off. Also you should do gravel vacuums to clean up the poop and any eggs in the water. But please don't vacuum all of the gravel as there are beneficial bacteria in the gravel. Vacuum small sections of the gravel only to prevent a cycle crash. This should help in getting up any leftover eggs.

my quarantine tank doesn't have gravel in it, should i put some in? everything has been pre-bleached a week ago and i think i like to go gravel-less for hospital tank so it's easy to spot on anything, so should i only vacuum parts of the bottom or vacuum all of it?

the fishes i got were kept in a 10 gallon tank...with some other almost 20 fishes...it was horrible and so i thought i'll help 2 or 3, even when they came in sick, they could at least have a chance to survive but i ended up killing one :cry1 i should come back again today and see if the tank still has 20 fishes but i'm quite afraid i'll buy more so i'll stay put >.< i pick the fishes with e most chance of surviving, in the tank some others have ammonia burns, ich too, red streaks in tails and almost anything can be found in that tank! i cannot even tell them to have less fish since it's a huge supermarket with almost everything selling! :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I'm so sorry about your little fish baby :(

If the other fish is yawning it's probably a sign of flukes. Keep up the water changes to get the ammonia down and keep treating with salt to get rid of the ich. Don't stress out and start mixing medicines, try and remain calm, you're doing a good job caring for your fish. The white stringy poo may still be a sign of stress keep us posted on the ich on it though.

thank you, i'm sorry that it died too :(

i did exactly as u typed when i read it: stressing out and start reading what is flukes and how should i deal with it >.< i'll try and remain calm and read and read so i get to know more! thanx for telling me!! =D

It doesn't necessarily mean that you did not succeed I think the new fish you got came in extremely unhealthy condition when you bought them.

There should not be any white spots on the fish and they should not be flashing and trying to get it off. Also you should do gravel vacuums to clean up the poop and any eggs in the water. But please don't vacuum all of the gravel as there are beneficial bacteria in the gravel. Vacuum small sections of the gravel only to prevent a cycle crash. This should help in getting up any leftover eggs.

my quarantine tank doesn't have gravel in it, should i put some in? everything has been pre-bleached a week ago and i think i like to go gravel-less for hospital tank so it's easy to spot on anything, so should i only vacuum parts of the bottom or vacuum all of it?

the fishes i got were kept in a 10 gallon tank...with some other almost 20 fishes...it was horrible and so i thought i'll help 2 or 3, even when they came in sick, they could at least have a chance to survive but i ended up killing one :cry1 i should come back again today and see if the tank still has 20 fishes but i'm quite afraid i'll buy more so i'll stay put >.< i pick the fishes with e most chance of surviving, in the tank some others have ammonia burns, ich too, red streaks in tails and almost anything can be found in that tank! i cannot even tell them to have less fish since it's a huge supermarket with almost everything selling! :unsure:

Flukes are a type of parasite that can be on the body or in the gills. Gill flukes are most common and most goldfish are guaranteed to have it. They basically destroy the fish's gills until it eventually dies. The symptoms of flukes are usually flashing and like you said, yawning. Here we usually treat flukes with Prazipro by Hikari or from Aqua Prazi which you cna order online from. Make sure all the ich and fish lice are gone. Never treat too much at once, because it stresses out the fish. Remember stay calm because you can overdose when you're in a panic.

Don't put gravel in the quarantine tank. It makes it so much easier to clean! I've begun taking the gravel out of my main tank slowly just because it's so much easier to clean.

It's terribly sad that so many fish were in such a tiny tank. However, it's all too common with many chain stores. They just want to make money. I know it's hard when you want to rescue a fish, but try not to do it unless you can really support so many rescues. It just ends up being more work and trouble in the long run. :( With the care you are giving the fish now I'm sure you can save him. You're doing a good job. Just keep us posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

Flukes are a type of parasite that can be on the body or in the gills. Gill flukes are most common and most goldfish are guaranteed to have it. They basically destroy the fish's gills until it eventually dies. The symptoms of flukes are usually flashing and like you said, yawning. Here we usually treat flukes with Prazipro by Hikari or from Aqua Prazi which you cna order online from. Make sure all the ich and fish lice are gone. Never treat too much at once, because it stresses out the fish. Remember stay calm because you can overdose when you're in a panic.

Don't put gravel in the quarantine tank. It makes it so much easier to clean! I've begun taking the gravel out of my main tank slowly just because it's so much easier to clean.

It's terribly sad that so many fish were in such a tiny tank. However, it's all too common with many chain stores. They just want to make money. I know it's hard when you want to rescue a fish, but try not to do it unless you can really support so many rescues. It just ends up being more work and trouble in the long run. :( With the care you are giving the fish now I'm sure you can save him. You're doing a good job. Just keep us posted.

o my god! i think i should try have a look at the fish medicine store after work! see if i can find e prazi thingy! so i'll treat the ich first and then treat the flukes for later, right? or should i treat the flukes first? because it's gills that they destroy :krazy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Flukes are a type of parasite that can be on the body or in the gills. Gill flukes are most common and most goldfish are guaranteed to have it. They basically destroy the fish's gills until it eventually dies. The symptoms of flukes are usually flashing and like you said, yawning. Here we usually treat flukes with Prazipro by Hikari or from Aqua Prazi which you cna order online from. Make sure all the ich and fish lice are gone. Never treat too much at once, because it stresses out the fish. Remember stay calm because you can overdose when you're in a panic.

Don't put gravel in the quarantine tank. It makes it so much easier to clean! I've begun taking the gravel out of my main tank slowly just because it's so much easier to clean.

It's terribly sad that so many fish were in such a tiny tank. However, it's all too common with many chain stores. They just want to make money. I know it's hard when you want to rescue a fish, but try not to do it unless you can really support so many rescues. It just ends up being more work and trouble in the long run. :( With the care you are giving the fish now I'm sure you can save him. You're doing a good job. Just keep us posted.

o my god! i think i should try have a look at the fish medicine store after work! see if i can find e prazi thingy! so i'll treat the ich first and then treat the flukes for later, right? or should i treat the flukes first? because it's gills that they destroy :krazy:

I think I would definitely treat for the ich firt because it's the easiest to eliminate. With flukes you have to stand with a strict regimen with the prazi. You definitely have time to treat for flukes, don't worry focus on the ich, but definitely start looking for the prazi now. I had started a topic asking about treatment options and many great members have posted some great insight that you can definitely benefit from.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84096-prazi-pro/

Edit: Life Bearer also treats fish lice, flukes, and anchor worm. So look out for that if you can.

Edited by Tay
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

I think I would definitely treat for the ich firt because it's the easiest to eliminate. With flukes you have to stand with a strict regimen with the prazi. You definitely have time to treat for flukes, don't worry focus on the ich, but definitely start looking for the prazi now. I had started a topic asking about treatment options and many great members have posted some great insight that you can definitely benefit from.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84096-prazi-pro/

Edit: Life Bearer also treats fish lice, flukes, and anchor worm. So look out for that if you can.

should i let the salt be in the tank after the ich are all gone and go ahead with the fluke treatment or should i remove the salt bit by bit and on the last water change, add the fluke medication immediately? i've read that, thanx a lot! i definitely need that! :D

i have one more question, i spotted a long thin white poo in my main tank, is that stress or is that internal bacterial infection? if i want to feed them home made gel food mixed with metronidazole, should i remove the carbon of the filter or should i just let the filter be?

and one more, even if you don't see the fish yawning, should you just treat for fluke anyway? i'm quite scared of this fluke thingy and i think i should treat my main tank and the hospital tank with fluke altogether... what do you think tay?? :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I think I would definitely treat for the ich firt because it's the easiest to eliminate. With flukes you have to stand with a strict regimen with the prazi. You definitely have time to treat for flukes, don't worry focus on the ich, but definitely start looking for the prazi now. I had started a topic asking about treatment options and many great members have posted some great insight that you can definitely benefit from.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/84096-prazi-pro/

Edit: Life Bearer also treats fish lice, flukes, and anchor worm. So look out for that if you can.

should i let the salt be in the tank after the ich are all gone and go ahead with the fluke treatment or should i remove the salt bit by bit and on the last water change, add the fluke medication immediately? i've read that, thanx a lot! i definitely need that! :D

i have one more question, i spotted a long thin white poo in my main tank, is that stress or is that internal bacterial infection? if i want to feed them home made gel food mixed with metronidazole, should i remove the carbon of the filter or should i just let the filter be?

and one more, even if you don't see the fish yawning, should you just treat for fluke anyway? i'm quite scared of this fluke thingy and i think i should treat my main tank and the hospital tank with fluke altogether... what do you think tay?? :unsure:

Just to be safe I'd slowly remove the salt from the tank after the ich is all gone. Because salt doesn't kill flukes. Make sure you do a large water change and then do the fluke medication immediately. Let it sit, and dose again. Then another water change and keep doing that for a month. Or just follow one of the regimens on that forum.

It's hard to tell. Is it constantly like that? it could be either or, but I'm thinking it's most likely stress. You can definitely feed the gel food, that should help, and don't do anything to the filter.

Yes, treat for flukes anyway because it can come back. Treat both tanks because I'm sure the fish you already have have flukes so just treat them anyway. Also like countrylovah said in that topic. When they react badly or worse when the prazi is administered, it's usually a sign of healing so don't worry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Edit: Life Bearer also treats fish lice, flukes, and anchor worm. So look out for that if you can.

Just want to pop in with a small warning : LifeBearer the ingredients in it are: 0.0-dimethyl, 1-hydroxy, 2-trichloromethyl phosphonate.

The trichloromethyl phosphonate is very strong stuff. Especially if your having trouble with your cycle or water quality. Your fish would probably not react well to this. I would look for the Prazi which is very gentle on your fish and cycle but very good at getting rid of flukes. I hope your fish will soon be healthy again.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Edit: Life Bearer also treats fish lice, flukes, and anchor worm. So look out for that if you can.

Just want to pop in with a small warning : LifeBearer the ingredients in it are: 0.0-dimethyl, 1-hydroxy, 2-trichloromethyl phosphonate.

The trichloromethyl phosphonate is very strong stuff. Especially if your having trouble with your cycle or water quality. Your fish would probably not react well to this. I would look for the Prazi which is very gentle on your fish and cycle but very good at getting rid of flukes. I hope your fish will soon be healthy again.:)

That's a good thing to know. I recently bought a little bottle for around 2 USD. Should I just get rid of it if it's that dangerous? That's a bad risk to take.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

It might be useful for some other parasite such as fish lice. But since we have a gentle alternative for flukes with the prazi I just think it is safer to use. Especially with a fish that is already stressed from being in a new home, then ich and maybe from the different water conditions then a too strong med could just push him over the limit. The biggest lessons I learned here about sick fish is

1) get their water as near perfect as you can.

2) Do not add any meds before you're sure what you're dealing with.

3) Choose the most gentle treatment you can in the beginning and you can always adjust it if it doesn't work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest fukkochan

owkay, so ich first, flukes later, duly noted! =D i'm heading out now to browse the stores for prazi! let's hope i find one so i won't have to order online which can take ages to arrive looking at the speed of everything in my country =(

sometimes they poo white, other times no, at first i suggest it's because they nibble on this fake anemone i put in the tank, i removed it already and they started pooping half white half brown :blink: the previous white poo had never been hair-like, it's always fat and white and translucent... this poo i saw in the morning is hair-like so i'm beginning to worry :unsure:

there's a medication brand name: azoo that i have that said "magic disease treatment" it claimed to be able to treat bacterial disease (fin rot, ulcers, dropsy and ascites), fungal disease (fin rot, saprolegnia sp. infection and achlya) and ectoparasite disease (white spot, velvet, gill worms, flukes, anchor worm, fish lice)

i used it once last week after returning a hospitilised fish that is already healthy to the main tank just to be sure everybody is safe. does this really cure flukes as well? or should i try the prazi (might contain the same thing with this treatment) again?

also, can i use this if the salt failed? i read about salt-resistant parasites that are now so common in tropical countries such as mine :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

owkay, so ich first, flukes later, duly noted! =D i'm heading out now to browse the stores for prazi! let's hope i find one so i won't have to order online which can take ages to arrive looking at the speed of everything in my country =(

sometimes they poo white, other times no, at first i suggest it's because they nibble on this fake anemone i put in the tank, i removed it already and they started pooping half white half brown :blink: the previous white poo had never been hair-like, it's always fat and white and translucent... this poo i saw in the morning is hair-like so i'm beginning to worry :unsure:

there's a medication brand name: azoo that i have that said "magic disease treatment" it claimed to be able to treat bacterial disease (fin rot, ulcers, dropsy and ascites), fungal disease (fin rot, saprolegnia sp. infection and achlya) and ectoparasite disease (white spot, velvet, gill worms, flukes, anchor worm, fish lice)

i used it once last week after returning a hospitilised fish that is already healthy to the main tank just to be sure everybody is safe. does this really cure flukes as well? or should i try the prazi (might contain the same thing with this treatment) again?

also, can i use this if the salt failed? i read about salt-resistant parasites that are now so common in tropical countries such as mine :(

Yes just like Caitie said, choose the most gentle treatment that you can and don't add ANYTHING until you know what you're dealing with. Adding too many meds at once can kill your fish. I'd definitely look for prazi.

I think the poo you're dealing with could be an issue with food. What are you usually feeding them? They need to have variety in the food and vegetables such as frozen peas. The kind with no salted added (That means no canned peas). If you have Ryukins are other egg bodied fish, it could be constipation. I know my ryukins had a problem with it for awhile until I fed them peas and a more varied diet. Try the frozen peas first. Just thaw them, take them out of the shell, and then feed to your fish but make sure they're in small enough pieces for the fish to eat without choking.

If it treats so many things I worry that it could be stressful to your fish. Like we said earlier, only treat one thing at a time and use the safest thing possible. I would go ahead and treat the ich first, and then get prazi to treat for flukes.

Just wait before adding something else and see if there is no more ich for awhile. Then you'll know if the salt failed. You're doing a good job :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...