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devadair

Bottom Sitting Oranda

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[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level? 0

[*]Nitrite Level? 0

[*]Nitrate level? 0

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? master test kit drops

[*]Water temperature? 76

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 29, 6 months

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? tetra whisper

[*]How often do you change the water and how much? once every two weeks/40-50%

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 4, about 2" each

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? none

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often? hikari pellets once a day, flakes once a day

[*]Any new fish added to the tank? no

[*]Any medications added to the tank? not since salted for ich

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? stays at the bottom most of the time but comes up to eat

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So does the oranda struggle at all to swim to the surface when you feed him? How does the poop look? Does he eat heartily at all?

I find your water conditions rather unusual. With four goldfish and biweekly water changes, the nitrate should not have remained zero. Did you conduct the tests after a water change? Is your tank heavily planted?

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So does the oranda struggle at all to swim to the surface when you feed him? How does the poop look? Does he eat heartily at all?

I find your water conditions rather unusual. With four goldfish and biweekly water changes, the nitrate should not have remained zero. Did you conduct the tests after a water change? Is your tank heavily planted?

It's not planted but it has a pretty big piece of driftwood in it. He doesn't seem like he struggles that much and whenever he sees the food he swims fast for it. He just one day dropped off and got all lethargic...the test was made a few days after a water change...his poop is fine also?

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So does the oranda struggle at all to swim to the surface when you feed him? How does the poop look? Does he eat heartily at all?

I find your water conditions rather unusual. With four goldfish and biweekly water changes, the nitrate should not have remained zero. Did you conduct the tests after a water change? Is your tank heavily planted?

It's not planted but it has a pretty big piece of driftwood in it. He doesn't seem like he struggles that much and whenever he sees the food he swims fast for it. He just one day dropped off and got all lethargic...the test was made a few days after a water change...his poop is fine also?

I forgot to mention the ph of the tap is 6.4 and the tank was off the charts (above 7.8)

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Hi there,

That pH is low for goldfish, what does it measure out of the tap? Drift wood can lower pH rather quickly, I actually lost a fish before when driftwood caused a pH crash.

Also, do you know the model of your filter? Specifically, the gph (gallons per hour). 4 fish in a 29 gallon is a lot. I know because I've tried to keep that many in there before and found it extremely difficult! :(

As Lupin pointed out, you should really be registering nitrates, and I would think they would be rather high. Is your test kit out of date maybe? High nitrates can have serious effects on fish, including lethargy and swim bladder problems, which may be the issue with your fish.

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Yeah if your tap water is 6.4 and it is dropping that's most likely why your fish is bottom sitting. Goldies like their ph much higher than that...somewhere in the 7's. And if it's dropping even lower than that that will cause the fish stress...goldies need constant everything...constant temp..ph etc. You can order some buff-it-up from goldfish connection to raise the ph in your tank and hold it there. I'm also confused by your water levels...there is no way all of those levels will remain at zero if you're doing water changes bi-weekly. What kind of test kit are you using hun?

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Yeah if your tap water is 6.4 and it is dropping that's most likely why your fish is bottom sitting. Goldies like their ph much higher than that...somewhere in the 7's. And if it's dropping even lower than that that will cause the fish stress...goldies need constant everything...constant temp..ph etc. You can order some buff-it-up from goldfish connection to raise the ph in your tank and hold it there. I'm also confused by your water levels...there is no way all of those levels will remain at zero if you're doing water changes bi-weekly. What kind of test kit are you using hun?

The PH out of the tap is 6.4...the PH out of the TANK is above 7.8. The driftwood has been present for a few weeks, I'll check on the filter...

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Okay I retested the water. I nitrates are at 2 and the PH looks like 7.4. The filter is a tetra whisper 20i, 125gph. I've realized it's not enough, gets dirty really fast, so I'm planning on buying a bigger one.

You think I should get rid of a fish? :/

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I'm trying to think...I HAVE lowered the temp over the course of a few days after I had treated the tank. From like 80 something to now 72...maybe that's what did it lol

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Does anyone think I should just QT him and start administering salt and prime? I did a water change a few days ago, the ph and all other levels are fine and he's still acting funny.

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How is he acting funny? Any flicking or scratching? I don't think I'd use salt on this one yet.

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No he's just lethargic 85% of the time. Sitting on the bottom until there's food...

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I know I'm going against your advice Lup but I put him in a QT with a .1% salt. He's looking bad, starting to lay on his side now, I'll see how the salt does after an increase and if it doesn't improve I'll drain and administer something else...

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Has he been prazi'd before?

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Okay, perhaps we may have to consider treating with salt and prazi. I'd dose 2.5mg per liter prazi. You can buy prazi as Prazipro in online or pet stores or as Droncit in veterinary clinics. Remove carbon when treating.

Day 1 -- remove carbon, perform water change with vacuuming, and add Prazi to tank

Day 2 -- add Prazi

Day 3 -- do nothing

Day 4 -- do nothing

Day 5 -- do nothing

Day 6 -- add Prazi

Day 7 -- add Prazi

Day 8 -- normal partial water change with vacuuming

Day 14 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 21 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 28 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 35 - normal partial water change, add carbon, treatment is complete

Sorry, I should have caught this earlier but I wasn't aware of your quarantine regimen so I did not think much about the salt and prazi.

Edited by Lupin

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Okay, perhaps we may have to consider treating with salt and prazi. I'd dose 2.5mg per liter prazi. You can buy prazi as Prazipro in online or pet stores or as Droncit in veterinary clinics. Remove carbon when treating.

Day 1 -- remove carbon, perform water change with vacuuming, and add Prazi to tank

Day 2 -- add Prazi

Day 3 -- do nothing

Day 4 -- do nothing

Day 5 -- do nothing

Day 6 -- add Prazi

Day 7 -- add Prazi

Day 8 -- normal partial water change with vacuuming

Day 14 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 21 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 28 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 35 - normal partial water change, add carbon, treatment is complete

Sorry, I should have caught this earlier but I wasn't aware of your quarantine regimen so I did not think much about the salt and prazi.

Thanks for the advice Lupin, he's in the 5gal now with prazi added. From the conversion to gallons it looks like that comes out to a little less than a teaspoon of prazi?

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Are you using powder, tablet or liquid? Powder is the trickiest to measure but it's not hard to overdose with a mild treatment like prazi.

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Are you using powder, tablet or liquid? Powder is the trickiest to measure but it's not hard to overdose with a mild treatment like prazi.

It's liquid

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Okay, perhaps we may have to consider treating with salt and prazi. I'd dose 2.5mg per liter prazi. You can buy prazi as Prazipro in online or pet stores or as Droncit in veterinary clinics. Remove carbon when treating.

Day 1 -- remove carbon, perform water change with vacuuming, and add Prazi to tank

Day 2 -- add Prazi

Day 3 -- do nothing

Day 4 -- do nothing

Day 5 -- do nothing

Day 6 -- add Prazi

Day 7 -- add Prazi

Day 8 -- normal partial water change with vacuuming

Day 14 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 21 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 28 - normal partial water change, then add prazi

Day 35 - normal partial water change, add carbon, treatment is complete

Sorry, I should have caught this earlier but I wasn't aware of your quarantine regimen so I did not think much about the salt and prazi.

Thanks for the advice Lupin, he's in the 5gal now with prazi added. From the conversion to gallons it looks like that comes out to a little less than a teaspoon of prazi?

I forgot to ask, is this treatment unique to my specific case or is this the way you treat prazi all of the time...

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The dosing regimen should apply to all forms of prazi as well as treatment courses (more so with quarantine procedures). Follow recommended dosage on bottle.

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The dosing regimen should apply to all forms of prazi as well as treatment courses (more so with quarantine procedures). Follow recommended dosage on bottle.

Ok I was just curious :)

I took a video of him earlier today, I'll upload and post it because I've found something new..

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Ok so here's the vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sjhe1xFAoNw

It might not be fully processed yet but I gotta get to bed :P

Notice the white spot coming out of his gill? There are two spots attached to eachother trailing out. Parasite?

He doesn't seem to be doing much better/worse on his 4th day of prazi treatment but I suppose that's a good thing. He still tries to eat too but not very well.

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