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Bottom Sitting,now In Qt With Salt


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[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level? 0ppm [*]Nitrite Level? 0ppm

[*]Nitrate level? 5ppm (is this healthy?)

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 7.2

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)? 6.0

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops

[*]Water temperature? 72.5

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 30 gallons, about 8 months, but currently in 10 Gallon QT.

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? In QT he has my back up Emporer 280 from the main tank.

[*]How often do you change the water and how much? Either 75 % once a week, or 50% twice a week.

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? I have three, Uno, about 3 inches with tail, Grimm, about 4 inches with tail, and Ren?e about 5.5-6 inches with tail.

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? I use Aqueon tap water conditioner only, and some baking soda for Ph reasons. Other wise no other chemical or treatments.

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often? Staple diet includes Omega sinking pellets, and Topfin freeze dried medley. They get treats that include of course peas, algae wafers, broccoli, lettuce, zuchinni, grapefruit, and any other fruits or veggy scraps set aside while making dinner, etc. They get these treats about every other day or so.

[*]Any new fish added to the tank? The last time I added fish was J-Ponds two lovely, which now share the 30 with Uno. That was about a month ago after a 3 week long salted QT. Before Renee and Grimm went in, the two comets went into the pond.

[*]Any medications added to the tank? No. I do however keep ammo-carb in the ectra media basket in my emporer 280.

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? This may not be of legitimate concern, more so a nervous fish mommy, but it seems his breeding stars on his right pectoral fin are more obvious then on his left. But it is spring time so who knows.

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? He's been hovering at the bottom in a corner, which is very unusual as he is a very active, inquisitive, and a bit of a bully-ish fish. He hovers in the corner until he notices me, at which point he joins the others in begging for food which he is eating heartily still. After one day of this behavior and him the same this morning I moved him into to QT where he hovers mostly, with a little flashing here and there (primarily when I turned on the light to inspect him so i may just have frightened him).

I have salted the first dose .1% already and will dose again in 12 hours until I reach .3%, but does this sound like the right course of action for his symptoms? He's been salted to .1% for about an hour now and he hasen't changed condition. He does however jump up like a mad man and eat ravenously when I dropped in two or three pellets for him just now. So for now I will restrict feeding to maybe just a few peas through out the day with tank light off?

Please help, I don't want him to turn into a TRUE 911 case, so I'm going with the preemptive strike at the first unusual sign before his condition gets a chance to worsen. I love him too much to lose him.

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Have you ever treated your fish for flukes with prazi? Anytime there is bottom sitting and flashing, it is a good place to start. (As was the salt! Good move).

If you haven't, I would suggest you give that a go. You can buy prazi online at goldfishconnection.com (it's a pretty big jar) or you can buy a liquid version at many online stores called Hikari PraziPro. You can find that in SOME pet stores, but alot of people end up getting it online.

Your nitrates of 5 are VERY good. You want to make sure they stay below 20 and as close to 0 as possible is the best. 5 is a really good number.

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oh good to know about the trates, they test consistently at 5 ever since my cycle established. I keep lots of media in baskets and plants so i think those help.

Now for Uno, over the course of the few hours he's been salted at .1% in QT he has not been bottom sitting anymore, he hangs around at mid tank level, and explores this and that, occassionaly poking for food. So signs of improvement?

I also have not seen him flash, though I have been busy for the day, I will watch him an extended period of time tonight when it's slow at home.

Could this just be stress? I did water change right before the weekend and moved stuff around pretty good, but he's usually not bothered the least, in fact the ballsy little guy is always trying to play chicken with the siphon. But it is my first rough siphon since the new guys took the place of the ones who went to the pond, soo? maybe it's stress plus missing old buddies, plus meeting new ones, just taken a while to catch up with him?

Will keep posted as to his improvement.

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An observation: i water changed before the weekend, all my parameters tested 0,0,5 after. Today I water chanegd also, and after all params tested normal at 0, 0, 5.

Even despite the normal, healthy readings I have also noticed my two trapdoor snails closed up tight for a good 24 hours+.

These little guys are often the first sign of water quality needing to be addressed, but the water quality has been healthy all through.

Connected?

Is there some other water element I should be testing for? what else other than ammo, trates, trites and Ph would cause a fish to get sick and a snail to shut tight?

Could this do with my driftwood? It's been in as long as Grimm and Renee (about a month), would it be a delayed effect like this is it were leaching something? I let it soak for a good week to get all the tannins, etc out before i ever redied it for the tank.

I'm just not sure.......

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Yes on the prazi for new fish BUT wait...a tap pH of 6? This is very dangerously low a start point. Baking soda? Please be careful with this combination. It may mean your kH is very low too and every time you do a water change the fish will flash at the acid water added. Baking soda is not a reliable long term fix for low tap pH. It really is an unstable answer. Better to look at a more expensive buffer like "Buff it Up" or consider adding coral chips/sand somewhere in teh tank or filter. Coral is a natural pH buffer.

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Yes on the prazi for new fish BUT wait...a tap pH of 6? This is very dangerously low a start point. Baking soda? Please be careful with this combination. It may mean your kH is very low too and every time you do a water change the fish will flash at the acid water added. Baking soda is not a reliable long term fix for low tap pH. It really is an unstable answer. Better to look at a more expensive buffer like "Buff it Up" or consider adding coral chips/sand somewhere in teh tank or filter. Coral is a natural pH buffer.

I have an extramedia basket for my Emporer that I could easily use for coral chips, but what does using the coral chips tend to bring the Ph to? I could easily get the buff it up, but if the coral chips are more ideal I would go that route, but ideally I would like to only go one way OR the other, not a combination of the two. I just want to keep as few additives as possible from going into my tanks.

And what do I use to test chloramines, kh and gh? I've never seen a testing kit for water hardness, acidity, etc. Only for the primary Ph, ammo, trates and trites.

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I have an extramedia basket for my Emporer that I could easily use for coral chips, but what does using the coral chips tend to bring the Ph to? I could easily get the buff it up, but if the coral chips are more ideal I would go that route, but ideally I would like to only go one way OR the other, not a combination of the two. I just want to keep as few additives as possible from going into my tanks.

There is no specific measurement of pH that it will bring up regardless of hardness levels and amount of corals used. It's trial and error and you have to monitor that. Corals are basically calcium carbonate which increase both pH and KH. You don't have to worry about pH elevating too high. It is calcium carbonate and calcium carbonate does not elevate pH too steeply.

And what do I use to test chloramines, kh and gh? I've never seen a testing kit for water hardness, acidity, etc. Only for the primary Ph, ammo, trates and trites.

Since you're in MA, I am sure Prime is available there. It's a dechlorinator with sulfur smell designed to bind both chlorine and chloramine. It is safe for fish despite the putrid smell. API has KH and GH test kits. Avoid test strips although I am sure you know that already.

Edited by Lupin
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