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Ich


MACBOOK96

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I think my Rachel and the others have ich I am getting hopefully getting a mad that contains malachite green is there anything else I need to worry about? I will post water qualitys soon....

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?

[*]Nitrite Level?

[*]Nitrate level?

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[*]Water temperature? about 55 (I'm getting a heater too

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? ummmm, about 3 months

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? I have 2 top fin 60 gallon filters (300 gph)

[*]How often do you change the water and how much? I have done 3 water changes every month

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 4 orandas about 6in each

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? I use top fin water conditioner

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often? top fin goldfish flakes (twice a day)

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?no

[*]Any medications added to the tank? not yet

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? alls I've seen is the ich grains of salt

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? some have been staying on the bottum for a few mintues all of them have eaten well

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Hi Macbook, do you have any aquarium salt? As you mentioned a heater is a good idea, it will speed up the parasite's life cycle, but salt is needed too.

Also, how big is your tank?

Edited by Chrissy_Bee
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Hi Macbook!! I am sorry to hear your fish have ich. You say you have had your tank running for 3 months and so I am going to assume you have a cycled tank but without readings for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate its hard to tell. Its important to know if the tank is cycled because medicating in a tank that is not can be dangerous..

I strongly recommend you do not use malachite green products for ich. Its your choice of course but your cycle will be killed with this product and green also stays in the fishes body a long time and can be harmful to them. The best way to rid ich is with rock/sea/pickling salt. It has 2 main advantages: it is gentle on the fish and it does not impact the cycle or harm beneficial bacteria if done in 2 or 3 increments.

You should bring up the heat slowly. A heater + thermostat would be great. Sudden low temps can actually cause ich so warming up the water (and therefore the fish -since fish have no body temperature thermostat and rely on the water temp for blood heat) will help.

You can turn off any overhead lights/bright lights to reduce their stress.

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NEW!

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?0.0

[*]Nitrite Level?1.0

[*]Nitrate level?5.0

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?7.6

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?7.2

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?drops

[*]Water temperature? about 55 (I'm getting a heater too

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? ummmm, about 3 months

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)? I have 2 top fin 60 gallon filters (300 gph)

[*]How often do you change the water and how much? I have done 3 water changes every month

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 4 orandas about 6in each

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? I use top fin water conditioner

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often? top fin goldfish flakes (twice a day)

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?no

[*]Any medications added to the tank? not yet

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? alls I've seen is the ich grains of salt

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? some have been staying on the bottum for a few mintues all of them have eaten well

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Nitrite is very high...1.0 is stressful to goldies..Do a 80-90% water change before getting into any salts..Also I dont see the size of your tank..How big is your tank??

Trinket is very right about using salts instead of medications...as meds are very harsh on the fish...I had dealt with ich and Trinket, Sue and everyone else who helped me, had advised me the same..I followed it...and trust me salt works..API aquarium salt is really good...

This is a thread where Trinket explains the salting method in detail... http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=60876

This is CountryLovah's post in my ich thread

"I followed Trinkets salting method exactly, and raised the heat to 80. (gradually).. You are going to want to add the salt to 0.3%, which is different than the dosing on the package. That is equal to three teaspoons of salt per gallon. But like the instructions in the article you are reading, you want to do that in increments. You said you added some salt. The first thing I would do if you didn't do so BEFORE you added that salt is a large water change. (as close to 100% as possible) That will help clear the water of any free swimming parasites, and some of the cysts. Then you will add 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon. That will bring you to a solution of 0.1%. Twelve hours later add another teaspoon per gallon, bringing you to 0.2%. Twelve hours later another teaspoon per gallon, bringing you to your total of 0.3%. The fish should be able to handle this amount. If they begin to act strangly you may need a lower level, but in MOST cases this amount it just right to treat the Ich and will not hurt the fish..

It is going to be important to test the water daily after adding the salt. Sometimes salt can cause a bump in the cycle, leading to ammonia and nitrites showing up again.. You will want to be cleaning the tank OFTEN right now.. Use a syphon and do LARGE water changes each day. Scrub down the sides of the tank. You are trying to remove any Ich that are in various forms around the tank.. The salt should be left at 0.3% for a minimum of 7 days.. When you are removing water, you must add the same amount of salt that you remove, back in with the new water (dechlorinated and matched for temperature). For exmaple if you are removing ten gallons of water, you are removing 30 teaspoons of salt, so you must add back in 30 teaspoons of salt with the new 10 gallons of water). If you keep a log showing how much you've removed, and how much you've added back in, it will really help you keep track and not get confused.

You can leave in the filter pad, and should. It contains the majority of your BB"s and right now your tank water needs to be PERFECT. No ammonia. If you change the pad now you might risk losing those BB's and causing a bump in the cycle."

you can also chk out my thread http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=71625

Let us know if you have questions..hope they get better..

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ok thanks today I got some aquarium pharasuticles aquarium salt. My tank is 60 gallons. I will get to that water change soon

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question: should I take out the carbon in the filter when i salt the tank? and how much salt do I put in?

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Follow Trinket's salting instructions here: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=60876. Basically, start with 1 tsp per gallon. Be prepared to go through a lot of salt! Make sure you know how many gallons you have in your 60 gallon tank (for instance, I really have about 17.5 gallons in my 20 gallon tank.)

You don't need to take out the carbon filter for salt...at least, I never have.

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Salt is not taken out by filter media. And it doesn't evaporate either, so if you are topping off your tank due to evaporation you DON'T have to add more salt in! This is really important because if you add too much salt you can really harm your fish!

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new results PH 7.8 amounia 1.0 nitrite 1.0 (I haven't salted yet)

Try this...do a 75% water change asap...Dont add any salt...test the water and post the results here....If you are still reading ammonia and nitrite after the water change...do another 50-60% water change and post the results here...chk nitrates too if you have the test for it...dont wait too long to add salt..Ich spreads really fast..I think its been 3 days already since you first posted...in order for you to be able to cure the guys from Ich its essential you act fast...please dont wait any longer...

Edited by SunshineGurl
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I haven't even began to salt. Also I thought salt doesn't make readings go up. Should I begin to salt today?

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Guest booksandflowers

Hi, I have an Ich problem, too.

Ammonia -- 0

Nitrite -- 0

Nitrate -- 20 ppm

pH tank -- 7.6

I'm using the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals master kit (drops). It is a new kit.

I'm not sure what the water temp is, as my thermometer doesn't seem to be working. I do not have a heater on my tank.

My tank is 55 gallons and has been running for years (but the fish are all new -- I've had them a few weeks)

I have two Emperor 400s (one was added just before the new fish)

I haven't settled into a water change schedule yet because I've been trying to deal with fish problems and doing multiple water changes a week.

I have 3 very small (1 inch or so) fish -- 1 ryunkin and 2 fantails

I added Petsolutions Bio-Boost when I got my fish and one week later. I've used Instant Declor (Weco) when adding new water during water changes.

I have not settled into a regular feeding schedule for my fish because soon after I brought them home they got sick. I've fed them Pro Gold and Salad Supreme. I've also feed them peas. I'm planning on feeding them twice a day now that they're starting to feel better.

I've been treating with salt (3 tsp/gallon), but have not increased the temperature.

About a week after I brought home my new fish, they began to swim very sluggishly and to spend time sitting on the bottom of the tank. I also saw black coloring develop on my orange fish. I did not have new test kits but I thought that the fish were reacting to ammonia in the tank. I thought that my biological filter, without fish for a few months (after I had to euthanize my 7ish year old calico fantail who suffered with large tumors), was gone. Until I got my new test kits, I dealt with this by doing water changes. When I got my new kits, I realized that the parameters looked good and my biological filter seemed to be intact. The fish weren't really getting better, instead they were spending more time on the bottom of the tank. Then I noticed the white dots of ich on the fish. I immediately began treating with salt, but was worried about stressing them more by getting a heater and bringing up the temp, so I did not. Also, the black patches on the orange fish were getting larger.

The fish are improving, doing lots of swimming around and are hungry little guys once again. I still see signs of ich, though. It's been almost a week since I started treating them. Should I add heat, or continue as I have been? Will I need to use other medications, too, or will the salt be enough?

Another problem I see is that my ryunkin has been floating. I've fed peas and have soaked all food that I've fed the fish since I brought them home. Should I assume internal parasites and treat with medicated food? I saw some normal-looking poop from this guy yesterday, but almost every time I looked today he's been hanging out behind the filter at the top of the tank. In my tank's last incarnation I had problems with two floaty fish, both of whom eventually got so bad that they couldn't struggle against the floating anymore. I know in the past I made lots of fish mistakes and I don't want to go back to uninformed blundering, but I feel like I'm already starting out on the wrong foot here!

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Hi booksandflowers....I am really sorry this is happening..

I would really suggest you to start a new thread for your guys...This is good info you have given...Just copy this info and start a New Topic in this section...that way the mods and experienced members will be able to give you timely help and treat you as a separate case...we will help you as much as we can...First please start a New Topic...

Also do a 100% water change right away...The black marks that you see are ammonia burns...Did you change the entire water after your last fish passed away??..Meaning before you put your new fish in did you do a 100% water change...There could be bad parasites and bacteria still in the tank from the last fish..that are bothering the new guys...Also there is a possibility that the new fish have brought bad parasites as well from the pet store...So the first thing to do here is a 100% water change..Place the fish in a big enough bucket/tub/QT tank while you do so...If possible clean the tank with water and then set it up again...Ideally this tank alongwith the filter should be cleaned thoroughly...but for now at least change the water...and clean the tank..Make sure not to use any soap...and make sure the new water is treated with a dechlorinator, and is pH and temperature matched as the current water...I know you dont have a thermometer...but you can just use your finger to bring it to the closest temperature match and then transfer the fish back...Post the results...and please post the results only after starting the new topic..Be sure to put this first post in it first... :)

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hey Guys, My fish look ok I have begun salting and most of the Ich is gone! Thank You Guys! You guys are my true friends! :D

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