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White Spots On Tail Fin?

Guest goldfishforme

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Guest goldfishforme

Hey all. So my little Lionhead has developed some white "spots" on the right side of his tail fin. There are about 4 spots, they are not tiny either. Any thoughts as to what this is? I am currently treating with an "ick" liquid drop. I removed the filter media before treatment as I remember hearing that leaving the filter media in the filter will filter out the medication.

I started treatment today. The bottle says to use 1 drop per gallon per day. Am I to be doing water changes in between doses? I did a 75% water change this morning before I got started.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I occasionally use marine salt as a general tonic, only about 5tsp in the 20gal aquarium. In the book Fancy Goldfish by Rick it says that this is a good idea.

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There are a number of parasites or diseases that can present as white "spots" on the tail fins. Ich is just one of them. Salt will help with the majority. It is a good start.

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Hi goldfish! : ) Sorry you are having problems with your fish.. I am going to copy & paste a box of questions thats in the disease section. Would you mind filling these out?

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?

[*]Nitrite Level?

[*]Nitrate level?

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[*]Water temperature?

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)?

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size?

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often?

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?

[*]Any medications added to the tank?

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

It's really important to have the answers to these questions, always, but especially when medications are involved.. Although needed in some cases, often the meds that are in the ich drops like you are talking about are very harsh on fish, and depending on the water, can do more harm than good.. Like Daryl said, many problems are best and most safely treated with salt.. There is a link in my signature explaining it, but we can also explain it step by step, but first we need the answers from you.

I think one of the best things you can do right now is actually get the water tested with drops if possible, because they are the most accurate, and do a large water change to remove the meds.. Then we can explain the salt method. (It's sooooooo much better for the fish)

Welcome to koko's! :)

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Unless it's a bunch of ich clustered closely together, individual ich parasites are really rather small, so when you say "they are not tiny either," it makes me wonder if it's something else. And, if so, using the ich medication will be useless. So, giving us some history/information about your tank as Sue has asked will help us a lot. Pictures would help even more.

Aside from all of this, as Daryl suggested, salt is a much better treatment option as salt will treat most parasites as well most bacterial infections, so regardless of what this might be, you'll have a much better chance of treatment if you use salt.

If you choose to use salt, we can advise you on the dosing requirements as they are not what you have been currently using.

In the event is it ich, you need to do very large daily water changes and, if you have gravel, very thorough vacuumings so that you can remove any eggs that are floating in the water and have been deposited in the gravel.

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Guest goldfishforme

Hey all. I did a 75% water change this AM. Afterwards I checked my PH, Amonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels and all were in good and safe levels. Some history about the aquarium:

- Up and running for 10 months. (in this apartment.)

- 20 Gallons

- 2 Lionheads in it for 9 months problem free

- The one fish is about 4-4.5 inches long, a strong swimmer with headgrowth starting. He has a small amount of freying on his tail fin on one side but it is from the other fish nipping at him.

- The smaller of the 2 is about 3 inches long and has far less girth to him, but is a strong swimmer too. He is smaller due to a facial deformity that he has had since I bough him, only half of his mouth opens and thus he has a harder time eating. He is the one with 3-4 white spots on his tail fin.

- Filter is an Emperor Power Filter 280

- Heater is an Ebo-jager set to 22C but the aquarium has been 24C all summer due to the ambiant temp in my appartment.

- I have been using API aquarium salt as a general tonic but have been using lower doses that recomended on the jar.

- The aquarium gets only artificial light from the aquarium light, no sun light.

- I typically do a 30-40% water change once a week and a 75% water change at the first of the month but was a little negligent this past month as I got married. Only did 2 water changes last month.

I just looked into the aquarium and noticed a bunch of "flecks" all over the glass from top to bottom. I am assuming that this is just small particles from my gravel (very fine marine gravel which is approx. 1 inch thick at its thickest) as I do not have any filter media in the filter currently to catch whatever is stirred up by my water change earlier. These "flecks" wipe away eaisily with my mag-float and then seem to float themselves in the water until they settle down to the bottom.

If anyone has some recomendations as to how much salt to be using to treat my fish, it would be greatly appreciated. Also some guidance as to how often I should be changing my water and how much water to change each time while I am treating the fish.

Thanks everyone!

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Can you tell us what "good and safe levels" are exactly, i.e., actual numbers?

Are you certain that the frayed tail fin is from nipping? That is, have you actually seen the nipping occuring?

First, it's probably not a good idea to use salt on a continuous basis as any bad bacteria in the tank could form a tolerance to it over time and, conversely, you could get a buildup of salt in the fishes' systems that could result in an overdose/intolerance that can actually do harm.

Your water changes aren't bad, however, I might suggest upping them slightly to 50% once a week and 100% once a month. Along with the good bacteria that grow in the tank, bad bacteria also grow, so a 100% water change can help remove some of that bad bacteria and get completely all new fresh water in the tank.

I myself learned, the hard way, about what can happen when you slack off on water changes. Of course you had the best reason of all to slack off, congratulations by the way!, but lack of maintenance is lack of maintenance and bad stuff can happen when that occurs.

The thing is, it's hard to get parasites in a tank when you've had a stable tank and haven't introduced a new fish or plant or tainted media from another tank, for instance, that might have the parasite living in/on it. Bacteria can grow out of nowhere. Parasites can't. So, between the frayed fins, the lack of water changes and the large patches of white stuff, I can't help but wonder if this isn't a bacterial infection.

Again, pictures of the frayed fins, white spots/patches and "flecks" would really help.

With regard to salting this is the basic rules.

We reference salt by volume, i.e., 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.3%. You can use aquarium salt, rock salt, kosher salt, sea salt, canning salt, etc. Salt is reference by volume because the size of the rock of salt can vary, thus causing the actual measurement to vary, but, if you are using a standard size rock type salt pretty much similar to the rock size of aquarium salt, the basic measurements are: 0.1%=1 tsp salt per one gallon water, 0.2%=2 tsp salt per one gallon water and 0.3%=3 tsp salt per one gallon water. 3 tsp. = 1 TBLSP. 16 TBLSP = 1 Cup. 0.1% is more of a preventative measure, while 0.2% would be for a milder infection and 0.3% would be for moderate to bad infections. You always start with 0.1%, then after 12 hours, you add more salt to bring the salt volume of the water to 0.2%. Then in another 12 hours, you add more salt to bring the salt volume to 0.3%. Also, salt does not evaporate with the water. It will stay in the tank. So, if you are topping off a tank, you don't need to add more salt; however, if you remove water, as in a water change, you have removed an equal amount of salt. So, if you did a 50% water change, you removed 50% of the salt and you would need to replace 50% of the salt after the water change. For example, if you had a 20 gallon tank and had 0.3% salt in the tank, you would have added 60 tsps of salt. If you did a 50% water change, you would have removed 30 tsps of salt, so, after the water change, you would need to add back in 30 tsp of salt.

In your case, I would bring the volume of salt up to at least 0.2% and possibly 0.3%, depending on what we see if you can post pictures.

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Guest goldfishforme

Yes I am sure that the tail freying on my large lionhead is from the other fish nipping him. The freying is actually healing over the past couple of days and is looking better. I have witnessed the other fish nipping him.

As for water readings, here is what I got yesterday:

PH = 7.5

Nitrate = 12.5 mg/l

Amonia = 0 mg/l

Keep in mind that these numbers are checked by comparing the colour of the water in the test tube to the colour on the test card, so I'm sure there could be some variance.

- I haven't added any new fish since I put the 2 lionheads in, they are the only 2 in the aquarium.

- I feed my fish Hikari Gold sinking type pelets, twice daily, but since the spots formed I have reduced the amount I feed at each feeding.

- I use a "multi purpose" water conditioner that is supposed to remove chlorine, help replenish the natural slim coat on the fish, and it also contains aloe which is supposed to help sooth skin wounds and torn fins. (I am reading all of this straight off the bottle.)

I have pictures of the white spots, but I can't figure out how to up load them. Help please. It keeps asking me for the URL but my pics are not online, they are on my computer.

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Guest goldfishforme

Also, one other thing. Since I have removed the media from my filter, I have noticed thousands of small flecks on the glass, down tube of the filter and heater. They almost look like little skin flakes or something. They cling to the surfaces and you can see them moving a bit with the current in the water. I am wondering if this is just normal debris that would be caught in my filter media or is it something I should be worried about? Any thoughts?

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First thing. Posting pictures. You need to use a picture hosting site like Photobucket. You upload your picture there. Then, under the picture, you will see four different link options. Choose the one titled, "Direct Link" and copy it. Then come to Kokos and, when you open the box you use to type your responses, above where you type, you'll see the yellow smiley face emoticon icon, then, to the right of that, a green + icon, then to the right of that, a square with an orange dot in it and if you move your cursor over it, it says, "Insert Image." Click on that, then where it says, "Please enter URL for this image," paste in the picture link from Photobucket and click OK. That should do it! The picture will post wherever your cursor is in your response, so, make sure your cursor is in the place you want your picture to be. You can double check that you've done it right by clicking on "Preview Post" at the very bottom of your response box.

With regard to the "moving flecks" on the glass, it could be any number of harmless worms. If it were a harmful critter, it would be on your fish too. You can remove them with a good wipe down of all surfaces and then do a 100% water change. Salt should kill them too. Again, a picture of these "flecks" will help immensely.

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