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Kh & Gh Test Results


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  • Regular Member

I wasn't able to find a drop test version of the kh and gh so I bought a strip test that includes nitrate, nitrite, and pH. the n, n, and pH results weren't correct at all...so I'm wondering if the kh and gh results are right...

anyway, I took 2 tests. the 1st was be4 the water change: kh - 40, gh - 0 . after the water change: kh - 0-40, gh 30.

I must say that I DON'T understand what these numbers mean :wacko: and I've only heard about these tests after a few posts and such on here.

Can anybody help me & let me know what 2 do next??

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  • Regular Member

also the colors kinda ran into each other. it says to dip and swirl twice. maybe it would be better to drop water onto the test instead of droping the strip in the water??

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Strips can be very finicky to use. I've only used the drop tests myself.

KH stands for Carbonate Hardness, which is how much buffer there is for your pH. A KH below 100 means your pH won't hold steady.

GH is for general hardness, and is a measure of the minerals in your water.

KH is usually the one people have to worry about. With a KH of 40, you probably want to add something like crushed coral to your tank, or a product like "buff it up" to bring it up to about 100.

Also check out this article that Koko wrote about KH and pH

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...showtopic=65745

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I had trouble finding the KH & GH drop test kits too... I found one on Big Al's.com....

KH & GH go together.. If you find you have a high GH, you will generally find you have a high KH as well..

Just curious, what is the PH of your tap water? I agree with Claire about the crushed coral, or buff it up. With your low KH, even if your tap water has a high PH, it has a lesser ability to make sure that the Ph is maintained. 7.4 is often listed as the best PH for goldfish, but we have members here like myself that have PH's up to 8.4ish.. Keeping it above 7 is advisable because as it gets under 7 the water becomes too acidic and can burn the fish. Higher PH's are fine, but the thing to remember about higher PH's is that the ammonia becomes more toxic at a high PH. In a fully cycled tank, this is generally not a problem though.

Keeping the PH stable is key. And by raising your KH you will be able to help make sure that the PH remains stable. So they are all related in ways.

Here is an article I just found with some more good info:

http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/waterchemistry.htm

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I did read koko's article, but I must be mental b/c it seems so confusing. I'm using the test tubes right now for tests on my turtle tank; and I've never thought about testing the tap water! :wa I'll do that just as soon as I get my other results.

the strangest thing is that in my turt tank the pH is super low at 6.4. :noway that's super abnormal and only happened after I started doing more frequent wc in that tank. what should I do to raise it since the stores are closed now????

I am going to order the buff it up stuff from goldfishconnect. I think I will also buy some medicated food for that fateful day when I'll need it asap.

api (the water testing makers) have a pH up and pH down product; has anyone used it w/ good results??

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I found for a quick fix to use baking soda, so I'm introducing it 2 tsp at a time and checking the pH in an hour to see if I need more. that conversion thingy on this site is a life saver!!

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Do you have baking soda at home? You can use that to temporarily raise the Ph while you are waiting for the buff it up.. The dose will vary depending on your water, so you kind of want to just play around and see. Add a bit at a time, see what it does. I always play around with it in a bucket first that the fish are NOT in.

I haven't had much luck with the PH Up or PH Down... The PH down I actually had a very bad problem with.. It can raise the PH too fast and burn the fish.. Now, as for the PH up, I think you would be better off with the baking soda. Both with only raise your PH temporarily, where as the Buff It Up is more reliable.. Baking Soda is 1) cheaper and 2) not a scary chemical lol

If you are going to buy Medicated Food, I suggest the MetroMeds. They are excellent for something called Dropsy, which kills fast, and often does not respond to anything but the MetroMeds. When you need those, you need them fast.. The medicated food has to be fresh when you use it. So do not open the bottle unless you need to use it.. It will keep for about 6 months if you store it unopened in a cool dry place.. The important thing to rememeber, is that once you start a food such as MetroMeds, you must feed ONLY that food for a MINIMUM of 14 days, and do not stop even if the symptoms dissapear.. SO you don't want to just go giving it to fish at the first sign of a problem. Often, there are other methods to treat them. SO if you do run into a problem, post about it on here, and someone can help you decide the best course of treatment! :)

********EDIT******* Well you already found it yourself while I was typing! : ) Good for you!

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