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Fungas Eliminator


jody

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Hi I have a 20 gal tank and I am treating fin/tail rot and red streaks with a fungas eliminator. The dose says to add 1 teaspoon for every 5 gallons. And then dose again in 4 days with a 25% water change. I added 4 teaspoons with my last waterchange(first dose). now I am wondering after the 4 days are up when I do the 25% water change do I dose fully again (4 teaspoons) or do I just dose 1 teaspoon for the 5 gallons I change?

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Thanks for responding to my post.

I have been running the tank for two months ,I have been using the salt for the two months. I started the melafix right after the tank cycled, about 3 weeks ago, and my oranda was not getting any better, actually his red streaks and fin rot were getting worse. I was going through the meds that nnnnnn has to offer and they only have two meds for fin rot and that is Melafix and this fugus eliminator which I just started using. Two fish reside in this tank, a black moor(who is perfectly fine) and my red capped oranada.

So you are saying to stick with the Melafix? Maybe I didnt give it enough time but it was actually making things worse. I am frustrated with this as I dont want to lose the little guy.

Thanks again.

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Jody, first you need to do a large, at least 90% water change. Use carbon in your filter media to remove all of the fungus eliminator. Your fish does not have fungus, and this will not help, it will only make things worse.

Its hard to answer you correctly without knowing your water parameters and water changing routines. Please try to answer all of these questions that you can, and we'll be able to better help you figure out what is going on, ok?

[*]Test Results for the Following:

[*]Ammonia Level?

[*]Nitrite Level?

[*]Nitrate level?

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

[*]Water temperature?

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)?

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size?

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often?

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?

[*]Any medications added to the tank?

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

Just copy and paste the questions and type in your answers. The symptoms you are describing can be caused by many things, but it mostly goes back to the quality of the water.

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[*]Ammonia Level?

0

[*]Nitrite Level?

0.1

[*]Nitrate level?

10

[*]Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

I do not have a PH kit

[*]Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)?

I do not have a PH kit

[*]Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

Ammonia - API, Nitrite and Nitrate - Nutrafin. All drops

[*]Water temperature?

80 (27)

[*]Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

18 Gallon running for 11 weeks

[*]What is the name and size of the filter(s)?

Wisper 10-30

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

Change 30% weekly

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size?

2 fish: oranda 3-4 inches, black moor 2-3 inches

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners?

Aquarium salt, cycle and aqua safe by nutrifin,

[*]What do you feed your fish and how often?

I feed them floating pellets twice a day

[*]Any new fish added to the tank?

No

[*]Any medications added to the tank?

Fungus eliminator

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

Oranda has frayed fins and bloody streaks.

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

No

Edited by jody
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On the back of the fungus eliminator bottle it says it will cure fin rot and bloody streaks, So I was wondering why this is bad for my situation?

I have had no luck with Melafix.

Thanks for your reply:)

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Hi Jody and thank you for filling out the info so quickly! :)

One of the first things I noticed is that your filtration isn't really sufficient for goldies. Fancy goldies, which you have, require 10 gallons each. At 18 gallons you are stretched to the limit, and goldfish require double the filtration that tropical fish would need. Its early here so I can't remember the exact numbers of filtration you need, but another filter, even a small one, would help your fish immensely. Goldfish put out a tremendous amount of ammonia and waste from their poo, decaying food, and even from their gills! The filters that come with the tanks are suitable for tropicals, but never enough for goldfish.

30% water changes once a week in an 18 gallon with 2 fish isn't quite enough. If you would do 2-3 30% weekly and 100% monthly this would be a better way to keep the water pristine. Upping your water changes would get your nitrite down to 0 where it should be and keep it there. You should show NO nitrites at all. Also thoroughly vacuum your gravel if you have any during each water change to remove all the crud.

You need a ph tester. This is crucial as ph is an important part of your goldies' health. If you have a ph crash it can kill your goldfish very quickly.

All meds such as Fungus Eliminator are very very harsh for your fish. They should be used only as a last resort, and you're not to that point yet. These meds will not only weaken your fish's immune system and open them up to secondary infections, but they will kill your tank cycle and cause more problems than you started out with. I'm not just saying this. I did the same thing when I first came here and almost killed my fish.

Lets start from scratch with pristine water. More often than not, this is what your fish needs to heal and destress from the meds. You can see how he does with this, and THEN salt to .1% if necessary. Be sure to use carbon in your filter cartridge to remove all of the Fungus Eliminator.

Its always best to go back to the basics and use the most natural approach first. If necessary there are other meds that are not as harsh, but we can see how he does first. :rolleyes:

Edited by vickielm
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Thanks for your reply vickielm!

I have a filter that was left over from a 10 gallon that I was running for them before. I can get the up and running very soon. I have one question about how to prepare the filter. Should I run boiling water over the bio filter to clean it out?

I think I am over feeding them so this is probably not a good thing for getting prestine water. My oranda has no sight from his wen growing over his eyes. I feed them more so that the oranda has enough time to find his/her food before the black moor gets it all. I would like to cut their food intake but how do I know how much to feed them?

I can handle 2 30% changes a week. And monthly a 100% change. How do I do a 100% water change? I have a bare bottom tank so it is pretty easy to clean the crud.

I did have a ph kit when I started but my ph kit readings didnt go high enough to measure my ph so I brought it back. I think I need a ph high kit?

Back to basics, I understand. I'll do a 60% change tonight and get the carbon back into my filter, also get my other filter running.

If you could let me know how to prep the old filter, this would help me out. And anything else you can think of that would help me.

Thanks in advance:)

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Ok I have the large (90%) water change done. I only added the water conditioner, no salt. Getting a proper ph kit soon, what do I look for in a ph kit? type, brand that sort of thing... what do you use?

I am still wondering about getting that old filter running, its a aqua-tec 5-15. When I got the 18 gallon I was so excited when I changed over that I just chucked the old filter in the empty 10 gallon and never thought anymore of it. I went to the basement today to check it out and there is some mold in it. Is it possible to buy new bio filter? Or should I just get another new filter? I would like to use the old aqua-tec though as this might save me a few bucks.

ANyhoo thanks for listening and I sure could use your advice.

Thanks:)

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Jody, you can use the old filter, but you are going to have to be meticulous in cleaning it. I'd soak it in a bucket of mild bleach solution...maybe 1 bleach to 10 water. The bleach will kill the mold. Scrub the inside and all of the filter with a brush that will go inside of the intake and make sure all of the mold is gone. Then RINSE RINSE RINSE in declorinated water that you have treated with your dechlorinator. Did I mention rinsing, lol? As far as the biofilter, I don't know if they sell refills for them or not, but the lfs sells that spongy stuff that is in there where you can cut it to fit or cram it into the little frame thing.

I use an API drop tester for ph. Its very accurate and easy to use and not too expensive. You can get it at the lfs. I hate to say this, but you're not going to find good medications at wallyworld. You are going to have to go someplace that specializes in pets and fish.

Good for you for going barebottomed! :booty Many of us on here have no substrate except for a few rocks or marbles and glass pebbles and it is so much easier to clean, plus there's noplace for the nasty bbs to hang out. As far as a 100% wc, if you have a bucket that is ONLY FOR FISH USE, you can put some tank water as you siphon it out into the bucket and put the little guys in there while you clean and change the water. Just don't do anything to your filter media other than swish it out briskly in some of the old water you take out.

Is the fish acting any better since the 90% wc?

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Fry is swimming around like crazy, I havent seen him so active.

I have the old filter soaking now, I will scrub it out tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help.

I did change my filter when I did the water change cause I had to add some carbon, I didnt touch the bio filter. I am thinking now maybe that would have screwed up my cycle... I hope not.

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If you left the biofilter alone it should be okay Jody. Very glad to hear that Fry is doing some better. Just keep up the wcs, put the other filter in after you're sure its thoroughly rinsed, and keep a sharp eye on your water params and Fry. Don't forget about the ph tester. We definitely need to know what that is pretty quickly.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

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I didnt screw up my cycle...YAY!!

I got the other filter working today, I prepped it as you siad. Its working great and also helping to areate the water.

I got the API Ph kit and my ph is 7.6 from the tap and from the tank.

My ammonia today is 0. My nitrates are 10. My nitrites are 0.1.

I'll be changing the water every 3 days now.

My poor fish fry is not doing so well though. He lost a couple of pieces of fins today and he has more bloody ends and frayed fins:(

Looking forward to your reply,

Jod

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What a relief that your cycle didn't crash! That would have been the last thing you and Fry needed right now.

Ok. I see that you're in Canada and I'm not sure what meds are available to you up there. But for right now lets keep up the water changes and add salt to .1%. This is very soothing to the fish and helps them heal. Remember to only use salt with no anti-caking ingredients. You can use aquarium salt, but it is pretty expensive for the little box you're getting. Rock salt, canning salt, and kosher salt can be bought at the grocery store for little of nothing. No sea salt, ok?

Since you are going to do more frequent wcs, its helpful if you keep a log of how much salt you put in and when. Salt does not evaporate out of the water.

Your ph is good and so are your nitrates. The frequent wcs should bring the nitrites down to 0 soon. Lets give Fry a few days to perk up, and in the meantime I will speak with a few of the members here who are from Canada to see what meds are available up there. Just remember that he didn't get ill overnite, and he won't improve overnight...but he WILL improve! :)

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It wouldn't let me edit. Fry probably has finrot which is not unusual for what he has been through. I was low on the salt dosage, though. Salt to .3% may cure him, but you don't want to let this go for a long time. I just don't think you should stress him out with more meds immediately.

Here is a link that I'd like you to read from here on the site about finrot and its causes. At the end of the article it suggests different meds, but as I said, you're in Canada and I'm not sure what is available to you up there. Maybe give it a few days with the salt and see how he improves.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/Finrot.html

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Hi thanks for your reply!!

I am about to add my first dose of salt. I had been using it by the directions on the box which is 1 tablespoon for 5 gallons. I see from the pinned topic on how to use salt that I need to be adding 18 teaspoons in three doses 12 hours apart. That seems like a lot of salt but I am going to go ahead and do that.

As for meds I know I have some Melafix that I picked up at Wallyworld (only buying there for convience sake). I can call the local store and see if they can get me some Maracyn.

Thanks again. :rolleyes:

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Jody, how is Fry doing today? I saw on your other thread that you are getting ready to use the Melafix. Just be 100% sure that all of the Fungus Eliminator is out of the water, ok?

Good luck and keep us posted on Fry's progress!! :)

And BTW, I usually just rip the back off of the filter cartridge and shake the carbon out before I get it wet. Once it gets wet that carbon sticks like glue!! Then rinse it thoroughly in tank water and shove it into the filter.

Edited by vickielm
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So nice of you to check in with me! :D

Fry is doing better today, he is really responding to the salt. I think he might not even need the Melafix, I guess we will have to see how he progresses. His tail and fins are much less red today and are starting to heal.

I am adding the last of the salt tonight to bring it up to the .3%

I have carbon in both filters right now, I am hoping it has gotten all the fungus eliminator out.

Thanks for the tip on how to get that carbon out! I will be sure to remove it when I start the Melafix if need be.

The only thing I am concerned about is that now I have two filters running they don't seem to have anywhere in the tank to relax without current.

Edited by jody
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A lot of people put terra cotta pots or glass vases in their tanks. You can just set a vase on the bottom of the tank that's large enough for him to fit in and if he wants to get out of the current he can chill in there.

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Jody are either one of your filters adjustable? If so, you can turn them down to lessen the current. Usually they will find a corner or spot where the current isn't so bad and hang there when they rest. Plants will also help by giving them a spot.

Soooooooooooo glad that Fry is improving!!!! :nana:rockon:bighug:goodjob You're doing great with him, and you're a great fish "parent"!! Pretty soon he will be 100% better and you will be able to relax and enjoy him for the little jewel that he is! :D

BTW are your nitrites down to 0 yet, and is Oscar still doing ok?

Edited by vickielm
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Hi vickielm, yes I am thrilled that Fry is doing better. :rockon I just did a wc and I found the nitrites at around 0.1

I am keeping the water at .3% for salt and I may start the Melafix next week after a big wc.

Oh yes and Oscar is still acting just great.

They seem to flock to a corner when the lights go out, I think they are able to rest away from the current there.

I'll get a picture soon and let ya know how is is improving. Thanks again for your help, this is fun :painting:

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Hi Jody and congrats on the continued good progress! One thing though...if Fry is responding well to the salt, I wouldn't use Melafix at all. It is going to take him some time to heal. When I first came here and Moby, my fantail, was TOTALLY black, it took almost 2 months for him to heal completely. Its a good idea to save meds for last resorts, and it seems that Fry is doing really well right now. Keep up the frequent water changes and try to get that nitrite down to 0. You may even get some Prime to get that down, then the wcs will keep it down.

This is just great news! :D

Moby and Florence also have a little corner where they sleep. If the current bothers them, they'll find a place out of it usually. Remember that the oxygenation is very good for them.

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