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Bloody Poop


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[*]Test Results for the Following:

Ammonia Level? 0.5

Nitrite Level? 0

Nitrate level? 0

Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)? 6.5

Ph Level (KH/GH) out of the Tap? 8.0

Brand of test-kit used? (strips or drops?) API

[*]Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running? New uncycled quarantine tank. 10 gal

[*]What is the name and size of the filter/s? Aquaclear 20

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 4" ryukin

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? Amquel +

[*]Any medications added to the tank? Maracyn 2

[*]Add any new fish to the tank? No

[*]What do you feed your fish? Medigold

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as

"grains of salt",

bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Bloody poop

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eatin does not seem to be eating anything

A couple days ago my 4" ryukin started having very long, thin clear to sort of whitish poop. I read that can be a bacterial infection so I placed her in a quarantine tank. I know it's uncycled and have been changing water as needed for ammonia levels. When i woke up this morning to check on her i noticed that she had blood red colored poop coming out. I thought at first it might be the color enhancing flakes i feed in my other tank but this is actually blood red. She also has not been eating very much. No bloody streaks or patches on skin. Please help.

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Hi.

First of all I want to say that Maracyn 2 and Medigold should not really be used together. The particular combination of antibiotics is a no-no. Another caution with Maracyn 2 is is that it is deactivated by light so the tank should be covered and kept darkish. The bloody poop could be a result of the combination of meds that may actually not be needed. Dosing with 5 different antibiotics (4 in Medigold) is a little overkill I think for a few days clear poop and no other symptoms.

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One more thing that keeps popping out at me is, from what size tank is the sick fish originally coming from? You only mention the uncycled q-tank. And how often do you do water changes on their main tank? And those tank readings - are those from the q-tank, or their main tank? We would need water readings from their main tank as well. :)

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Sorry forgot about the main tank.

[*]Test Results for the Following:

Ammonia Level? 0.25 right before last water change

Nitrite Level? 0

Nitrate level? 0

Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)?

Ph Level (KH/GH) out of the Tap? 6.5

Brand of test-kit used? (strips or drops?) API

[*]Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running? 110 gal / 1year

[*]What is the name and size of the filter/s? 2 aquaclear 110s

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?

2-3 times per week, 1 big change (75%) and at least one small change (25%)

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? with the sick fish 4. 8" fantail, 3" pearlscale, 4" lionhead, and the 4" ryukin

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? amquel +

[*]Any medications added to the tank? no

[*]Add any new fish to the tank? no

[*]What do you feed your fish? hikari oranda gold

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as

"grains of salt",

bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating,ect..? no

Also forgot to mention that the ryukin was bottom sitting in the big tank. She isn't doing it in the quarantine and the other fish are fine. Eating and swimming normally.

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Well there I think you have one answer. This is why all tank readings are so important. Your tank has zero nitrates so unless you are running a green water tank this means your cycle has most likely crashed. Unfortunately that small showing of ammonia is going to creap up farther and any ammonia or nitrites at all causes the fish stress that results in clear or white poo. Would also explain the bottom sitting.

If you are still seeing zero nitrates after feeding the fish and on a no-water change day then you need to assume your cycle has been bumped somehow and you will need to test the water daily -changing out water to rectify- till this is resolved. This could be all thats needed :)

Meanwhile how far along are you with the antibiotic food and bath? The food should be fed for the full course since you have started on it. You should stop the Maracyn2.

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The tank was green water but i'm trying to get rid of it. Idid a of scrubbing last week and cleaned out the filter media. I only fed antibiotic food last night and she didn't eat it anyway. And i just started the maracyn last night too. As a good note though no more bloody poop since this morning.

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Actually since i just had a spare moment i went ahead and retested the big tank.

The ammonia is between 0ppm and .25 ppm

And the Nitrates were 20 ppm

and the nitrites were 0.5 ppm

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Ok so you have something going on here. If you clean green water too suddenly the tank experiences something called an algae crash. The algae was part of the cycle hold and if you clear it too fast you will see ammonia and /or nitrites and also many times a pH crash. This happened to me twice now with GW tanks. It is sudden and unexpected and tends to happen faster in hot weather/warm water.

You need to keep a close watch on the water now. If its warm, try cooling the water and adding more dissolved oxygen via splash or extra airwand. This helps ward off a pH crash.

My guess is the bloody poop was caused by the med combo. It was a one off thing. She may just have been sensitive to the water issues, if its more than that- an internal bacterial infection- you have the Medigold at hand to use. I would just watch her closely another day ot two and see if she shows any strange behavior at all.

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Another quick question. My pH has always been on the low side. I heard somebody say something about crushed coral increasing the pH. Would this be something I should think about?

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Most definitely. Especially after an algae crash!! It works fast. You can add it as media to your filter boxes or you can use it directly as substrate. Sea shells work the same way to release c.carbonates to up pH over time. Below is a pic of the kind I use, you can also use the crushed kind in the filter box (but not as substrate). It holds the pH steady for years but you still need to watch nitrates closely as if these get high, even with coral, pH gets dragged down- even with alkalinity over 80 (kH) this can happen.

IMGP1069.jpg

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