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Mouth Problem With My Blackmoor


Guest steff

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Guest steff

[*]Test Results for the Following:

Ammonia Level?

Nitrite Level? 0

Nitrate level? 10

Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)?

Ph Level (KH/GH) out of the Tap?

Brand of test-kit used? (strips or drops?)

[*]Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running?25l

[*]What is the name and size of the filter/s?small rena filter

[*]How often do you change the water and how much?once every 2 weeks

[*]How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 finsh roughly inch and a half long

[*]What kind of water additives or conditioners? stress coat and sometimes aquarium salts

[*]Any medications added to the tank? myxazin fin rot and ulcers

[*]Add any new fish to the tank? no

[*]What do you feed your fish? aquarian flake food

[*]Any unusual findings on the fish such as

"grains of salt",

bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? white mark on bottom of fishes lips

[*]Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating,ect..? no

I have a blackmoor fish, the only one i have im my tank at the moment. He has never had any problems but recently i noticed that his lips have gone a very strange shape and colour. It's as if his top lip has inverted upwards into a 'v' shape and his bottom lip is just hanging (almost parrot like). There are small white markings under his bottom lip but this doesnt appear fluffy of furry. We did ask about this with someone from the pet store and they recomended we use myxazin for fin rot and ulcers incase there is a bacterial or fungus infection but this doesn't seemed to have made any difference. If anyone has any ideas with what could be wrong could you please help? My nitrite levels were quite bad 2 weeks ago but are back to normal now. There are also a few stones at the bottom of the tank, could it be possible he had a knock? The fish does not seem bothered or affected by this in anyway. He is swimming around and eating like normal although sometimes it is taking him a while for his food to go down.

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  • Regular Member

I'm not that good at suggesting proper meds yet so, I'll leave all the details of that to someone more knowledgeable, but I can tell you some things.

You say you have a 25 litre tank? One goldfish alone requires a minimum of 40 litres of water, so your tank is much too small. If you can't afford a larger tank, you can always use those rubbermaid type container bins and put a filter in them. You're going to have a much easier time of controlling the water quality with a larger sized tank/bin.

Also, goldfish require filtration that moves 10 times the water as the size of the tank. So, for a 40 litre tank, you'd need a 400 lph filter. Although you're water readings are okay right now, you said you had problems before. That probably brought in the bacteria that caused the fungus in your fish. Now, this could be a a fungus, or, because it's on the mouth, could be columnaris. Don't treat with any more meds for now.

You also said you only change the water once every 2 weeks. This isn't frequent enough. Even for a proper sized cycled tank with proper filtration, the water needs a temperature matched, dechlorinated, 50% water change once a week. For such a small tank, you should be doing 90% water changes possibly every day, depending on your test readings. A nitrate level of 10 is okay, but it should not be allowed to go higher and if you could get it lower, that would be even better, at least while your fish is sick.

Also, while adding meds can sometimes be tricky, it's usually fairly safe to add salt. Use aquarium salt. Nothing iodized. Start with 0.1% solution and work up to 0.3% over 12 hour increments. 0.1% salt = 1 tsp per gallon, 0.2% salt = 2 tsp per gallon and 0.3% salt = 3 tsp per gallon. Sorry for the US measurements. I'm no good at the metric system!

So, get that larger tank/bin, get a larger filter, put in your old filter media and anything else you have that may be carrying the beneficial bacteria and get your fish in there. Get the salt going and someone should be along to help further.

Good luck!

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you have gotton good advice ..I'm only going to add is if you can get an ammonia reading that would be great ..putting meds in with ammonia present can be lethal to your fish ...also water change every 2 weeks ..is not enough ecspecially in a small tank with a goldfish ,they are under water pigs and their waste output is huge and with that a bad bacteria will build and make your fish sick. I would change (in a cycled tank ) once a week 50% and once a month 100%..I change my tanks every 3-4 days in warmer weather nasty bacteria multiply even faster in warmer weather.. If you have ammonia or nitrites present you are not cycled so daily waterchanges is called for until you are ..Most problems are due to poor water Quality...so the best thing right now is do a big water change and salt slowly like lynda said and if you can post a pic of your fish that would be a tremendous help for the mods :)

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Hi and welcome to the board. I see that you are a UK member, like me.

Before we go any further I would advise stopping the Myxazin now and doing a very large temp-matched water change. This med contains drugs that strip the oxygen out of the water and can also be very toxic depending on temp and PH. Any ammonia in the water will make this dangerous, too. It sounds as if your fish has mouth rot so this treatment won't be any use, anyway.

We don't yet have a PH or ammonia reading from you - this is something that is vital to know in assessing a tank and deciding on meds. So, can you let us know what they are before we decide on the next best step? Get the tap PH, also and tell us how long this tank has been running.

It is good that your fish still seems healthy but this can change quite quickly so we should get on top of things as soon as we can.

Update when you can :)

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Guest steff

Thank you so much for all your replies!! This is all very new to me so every bit of advice helps. The PH in the tank reads 7.5 and the reading from the tap is the same. I've had the tank set up for roughly 2 months now and i'm finding it very hard work. Here are a few pics (the best I could get) hope they help and will try and get the ammonia reading up soon as I can.

80ky1.jpg

degfzd9.jpg

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Guest steff

Just a wee update. Just done an ammonia test and I was fearing the worse but the test showed the ammonia level is 0ppm. I have completely stopped using the myxazin and planning on doing a temp-matched water change.

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Just a wee update. Just done an ammonia test and I was fearing the worse but the test showed the ammonia level is 0ppm. I have completely stopped using the myxazin and planning on doing a temp-matched water change.

That's great! That means that you've cycled out the ammonia. So, at this point, could you tell us what the nitrites and nitrates measured at?

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Guest steff

Both the nitrate and nitrite are at 0. The one thing I'm slightly concerned about is the PH seems a wee bit higher than 7.5. Is this a fairly easy problem to solve just by using the PH up or PH down? I've also taken on boared your advice about buying a larger fish tank. I think this will definatly help a lot for the future. :)

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  • Regular Member

Hi again.

First of all - there is nothing wrong with your PH so don't mess with it. Those PH adjusters can cause mayhem in a tank and your PH is absolutely fine for goldfish.

Secondly, you have zero ammonia and nitrite, which is good, but also zero for nitrates which normally suggests that the tank isn't fully cycled OR that the filtration uses zeolite/ammo-chips. Could you throw any more light on this detail? Also tell us which kit you are using and whether they are strips or drops?

I think the best product for your fish would be NT Labs Permanganate. It is very effective against columnaris (mouth rot) and is about the only useful thing we can get here in the absence of antibiotics. You will need to add an airstone to help with oxygenation - potassium permanganate is an oxidizer which strips oxygen out of the water. It is also wise to test readings daily to ensure you do not suffer a bump in the nitrogen cycle.

The bottle has easy to follow instructions.

Take a look at the links below my signature which are helpful in laying out the basics.

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Both the nitrate and nitrite are at 0. The one thing I'm slightly concerned about is the PH seems a wee bit higher than 7.5. Is this a fairly easy problem to solve just by using the PH up or PH down? I've also taken on boared your advice about buying a larger fish tank. I think this will definatly help a lot for the future. :)

hmmm.... you should at least have an ammonia or nitrate reading. One or the other. Unless you're doing complete 100% water changes and absolutely cleaning everything every day, you should have some sort of reading. Something isn't right. You need to do a re-test. A drops test kit is going to give you a much more accurate reading.

Pixie is a great moderator. Follow her advice!

Edited by lynda441
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