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Pearlscale And A Ranchu?


lockhart_13

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First let me say that I am an absolute novice that is trying hard to do the right thing, but there is so much contradictory information on the net. Every time I develop some confidence in the decisions I've made I come across some info stating that it was absolutely the wrong thing to do. Having said all that let me get to the point of my post.

I have a new to me 26 gallon bow front tank with a Fluval 205 filter. I treated the water and let it run for a couple of weeks. The ph out of the tap at my place is 7.5 and the overall temperature of the tank is 70 degrees. I am struggling a bit to keep it under 70 as I live in Texas and its 100 degrees here everyday in the summer.

A week ago I got a small (less than 2 inches) Pearlscale. I did a lot of reading up on them ahead of time and feel prepared to give him the special attention Pearlscale's need. (Although, today I read that my tank might be too deep for him to thrive. I hope not)

I would like to add one more small fancy goldfish to my tank. I am choosing small fish because I really want to watch them grow up. I am prepared to upgrade the tank to a 55 gallon in the future should that become necessary for their well being.

I understand that any other goldfish I put in with my Pearlie must be a slow swimmer too. That is why I was thinking along the lines of a Lionhead or a Ranchu, I also would really like to have a goldfish with a wen.

What would be a good companion for my little guy?

Is there anything drastically wrong with my current set up?

How much longer should I wait before adding my second fish?

Thank you.

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I have 3 pearscales in a 110 gallon tank so I think you're depth is ok. I also have a ryukin, fantail,and oranda in with them and they all do just fine together. I think that your pearscale would do fine.

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First, welcome to Kokos! :welcome We're happy to have you here and please ask all the questions you want! We love to help!

Two fancies in a 26 would be fine, but, there are other issues that you probably should deal with first.

Bow fronts do tend to be deeper, but you can correct that problem by not filling it all the way to the top. A Fluval 205 filter has a 180 gph water turnover, and as goldfish need 10 times the water per gallon, you are a little short on filtration. You can just add a second filter as many of us do so that you have a good combination of biological, chemical and mechanical filtration.

It's good that you allowed the tank to run for a couple of weeks; however, it takes anywhere from 6 weeks or more for a tank to fully cycle. It will still be cycling, but as you have a goldfish now, you will need to keep a very close eye on the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates as they go through their cycle. It is my suggestion that you not add another fish until your tank finishes its cycle. Once the tank is stable, then you can add another fish, but make sure that you quarantine the new fish first before adding it to your main tank. A 55 gallon is a great home for two goldies.

You're doing a great job keeping your tank at 70 degrees if you're in Texas!

Edited by lynda441
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Welcome to Koko's!

Because this site specializes in goldfish, you should be able to find lots of good information. There is nothing drastically wrong with your setup. We like to have a bit more flow rate per gallon of tank than what you have, because it helps keep the tank clean and stable. Also, many of us prefer the standard tank designs because they offer more horizontal swimming space rather than vertical and more surface area (for oxygen exchange).

26 gallons will be large enough for two fancies. The basic rule we have is 10 gallons per fancy and 20 per common/comet, with more space as they grow.

70 degrees is a great temp for goldies, and I agree that most fancy goldfish are suitable companions for your pearlscale.

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The ph out of the tap at my place is 7.5 and the overall temperature of the tank is 70 degrees. I am struggling a bit to keep it under 70 as I live in Texas and its 100 degrees here everyday in the summer.

How are you keeping your water temperature so low? I live in Texas as well and my tank temperature has been pushing (and exceeding) 80 for months. Although high water temperatures (over 80) can be stressful for goldfish, particularly if aeration is not optimal or if the fish are sick, I just wanted to let you know that you don't need to struggle to keep your temp below 70. In fact you will find that your tank will cycle MUCH faster if your temperature is up around 78 (the bacteria will multiply more quickly).

As with many things pertaining to goldfish, the most important thing is that you maintain a relatively steady temperature.

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The ph out of the tap at my place is 7.5 and the overall temperature of the tank is 70 degrees. I am struggling a bit to keep it under 70 as I live in Texas and its 100 degrees here everyday in the summer.

How are you keeping your water temperature so low? I live in Texas as well and my tank temperature has been pushing (and exceeding) 80 for months. Although high water temperatures (over 80) can be stressful for goldfish, particularly if aeration is not optimal or if the fish are sick, I just wanted to let you know that you don't need to struggle to keep your temp below 70. In fact you will find that your tank will cycle MUCH faster if your temperature is up around 78 (the bacteria will multiply more quickly).

As with many things pertaining to goldfish, the most important thing is that you maintain a relatively steady temperature.

I agree ..a temp of 70 is good but if it is reaching 78 and you are bring it down to below 70 to Quickly that is a huge stress factor ...

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I realize it's a no no because goldfish are jumpers, but I have been leaving part of the cover off to let the heat escape. When I left for work yesterday the tank was about 70 degrees, when I got home it was 75. I'm worried about the fluctuation in temperature. I've been thinking of trying to come up with some kind of mesh cover that would keep him safely in his tank but let some of the heat escape. I'm also thinking of leaving the light off in the day time and turning it on at night when it isn't so hard to keep the house cool.

I'll definitely wait on adding the second fish and start testing for ammonia and nitrates. I added ammonia remover to the Fluval system when setting it up. I'm thinking of ordering the nitrate remover to add to the Fluval system when I do the first media change. The store didn't have any when I bought the system. The tank came with a used Bio-wheel 150, but the noise is horrendous. I'm going to have to come up with another option on added filteration. I sleep in the same room with the tank.

Thanks for all the input.

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What kind of ammonia remover did you add? The type added to filers is zeolite, which removes the ammonia and starves the beneficial bacteria, keeping the tank from cycling. When the zeolite becomes full, ammonia will suddenly start building up in the tank. You can use a chemical ammonia remover such as Amquel, which leaves the ammonia accessible to beneficial bacteria but makes it safe for fish, which is good while the tank is cycling. I recommend simply adding a permanent bio-media to the filter instead of ammonia/nitrate remover.

Goldfish don't really need the tank light. If you want to have live plants, the light is necessary. Otherwise, you can leave the light off. The ambient light in your room should be fine.

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I realize it's a no no because goldfish are jumpers, but I have been leaving part of the cover off to let the heat escape. When I left for work yesterday the tank was about 70 degrees, when I got home it was 75. I'm worried about the fluctuation in temperature. I've been thinking of trying to come up with some kind of mesh cover that would keep him safely in his tank but let some of the heat escape. I'm also thinking of leaving the light off in the day time and turning it on at night when it isn't so hard to keep the house cool.

A mesh cover would be fine to use as long as it's clean. It would be a good idea to turn the lights off during the day. Fish don't need lights. The lighting is for our viewing pleasure only (unless you have a planted tank with special light needs), so you'd be saving money, energy and maybe helping keep the tank water cooler by leaving the lights off.

I'll definitely wait on adding the second fish and start testing for ammonia and nitrates. I added ammonia remover to the Fluval system when setting it up. I'm thinking of ordering the nitrate remover to add to the Fluval system when I do the first media change. The store didn't have any when I bought the system. The tank came with a used Bio-wheel 150, but the noise is horrendous. I'm going to have to come up with another option on added filteration. I sleep in the same room with the tank.

Don't forget getting a test for nitrites as well and you probably should get a ph test too. Make sure you choose the drop kits and not the strips. As said above, media like ammo-chips will interrupt a cycle and prevent the beneficial bacteria from getting established, so if this is the ammonia/nitrate remover you are referring to, you should probably hold off. If you're referring to something like Amquel, this is okay if the ammonia spikes high and needs to be quickly controlled, but what it does is bind the ammonia into a less toxic state until it can be cycled, but the ammonia is still there. It's not completely removed like the product leads you to believe. Bottom line, even though ammonia and nitrites are bad, we still need them to cycle the tank. So we're walking that fine line between and acceptable amount and too much.

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