Jump to content

Sick Lionhead.


Recommended Posts

  • Regular Member

Test Results for the Following:

Ammonia Level? .5

Nitrite Level? 0

Ph Level, (If possible,KH and GH and chloramines)? 6.5

Ph Level out of the Tap? ???

Tank size (How many Gals) and How long has it been running? 25 gal. a week, not yet cycled xP

What is the name and size of the filter/s? whisper 20

How often do you change the water and how much? 25-50% water change every afternoon.

How many fish in the tank and their size? a one and 1/2 inch ryukin [Callie] and a one and 3/4 inch lionhead [Porkchop]

What kind of water additives or conditioners? nope---- just wat i use to purify my tap water

Any medications added to the tank? nope.

Add any new fish to the tank? --->the lionhead

What do you feed your fish? flakes, tubiflex worms, algae wafers, peas/assorted veggies

Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt"- no.

bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? - no.

Any unusual behavior like staying

at the bottom, not eating, ect..?

[stays at the bottom and dosn't move, save for flapping his fins slowly]

---> My new liohead, about three days after adding him to the tank with my ryukin- i began to notice long, thin, stringy white poo that would stay attached to him for very long periods of time, he soon began to 'sit' in the corner of the tank and flap his fins very slowly but he wouldn't move [but would come up to eat regularly].

This alarmed me, for Porkchop had allways been such an active little goldie. Suspecting infection, I took him out of the main tank and put him into a 5 gall. quarentine/hospital tank and put him on antibiotic fish food [Jungle's].

The medicated food says to feed twice a day for 5-10 days. Yesterday was the 5th day, and he seemed slightly better, bopping around the quarentine tank and whatnot- soooo, assuming that he was better I plopped him back into the main tank- only for him to go back in the corner, 'sitting' there looking sicker than ever....

Meanwile, my little Ryukin is fine.

Seeing Porkchop's repeating behavior I took him out of the main tank and put him back in the quarentine tank- for he most obviously was not better....right?

aggghhh.

I don't know what more to do x.x

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hi there. :)

There is still plenty that you can do to alleviate these symptoms:

If you are using tap water that has been filtered through some sort of purifier, then you need to stop immediately. It is way better to use tapwater, unfiltered and treated with a dechlorinator/detoxifier. The only reason to NOT do this would be if there was some sort of harsh contaminate that your tap water contains before filtering.

You need to purchase a product called Prime or Amquel+ (from your local fish store). Use it to dechlorinate your tapwater (unfiltered, use a tap located outdoors if need be) before adding to the tank. Your water is instantly ready to use in the tank once you have dosed it and gave it a quick stir. Also, dose it to the tank as per the test results for ammonia and nitrIte. In doing so, you will be rendering the ammonia and nitrItes harmless to your fish but still readily available for your biofilter to consume.

You can add a level teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of tank water to your tank. This will help keep nitrItes from being able to enter your fishes bloodstream. Remember, if you do a water change, then you'll have to bring the salinity of the newly drawn water to the level of that in the tank. So, you would dose one level teaspoon of salt per gallon that is going back into the tank. Salt cannot be filtered out nor can it evaporate so be careful with your calculations and additions.

Your tank is 25 gallons and your filter is REALLY only capable of handling 15 gallons. The whisper 20, although seeming to be a great bargain, really is the bottom of the line when it comes to filtration for goldfish tanks. They just aren't designed and engineered well enough to handle the large amount of wastes put out by goldies. No worries though, you can easily remedy this by purchasing another filter to use in tandem with your whisper 20. I would suggest a marineland Bio-wheel 100. IT can be found SOOOPER cheap here: http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl36...100bpowerfilter Big Als is a very reputable business. The addition of this filter will crete ideal conditions for keeping your cycle good and strong while keeping the tank water crystal clear.

Once you have rectified the water conditions of the main tank, I would add the one thats acting funny back to it. I think that with the suggestions above being carried out, your fish will have a MUCH easier time getting acclimated to the new tank.

Its going to take some time to get to the point that it gets easy to maintain the tank. Just hang in there. :)

Keep us posted on your progress.

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

no wait---- when i said 'water purifyer' i meant API water conditioner.

^^;

I've ordered the filter- and it should be in shortly.

...sooooo, when i receave it, i should add it to the tank w/ the whisper and put porkchop back?

is that right?

[i really apreciate the answers, and porkchop does too :D ]

...i really want him to get better, i simply adore the little fellow....

Edited by Callie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

...well, i fed him antibiotics this morning, put in the new filter w/ the whisper power filter and then put Porkchop- who was happy as a clam this morning, swimming around the hospital tank- back in with Callie.

Porkers and Callie seemed so happy to be reunited, it was so cute, they swam up to eachother flapping their little tails- following eachother around like Porkchop had never been gone...

I guess the extra filtration is good ^^; ---or the antibiotics made him feel better...

----->should i stop giving Porkchop antibiotic food and return him to his normal diet?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Your API water conditioner isn't a detoxifier. So, it will not help with the ammonia and nitrIte levels that fluctuate during the cycling phases of your aquarium. I highly suggest that you go to your local aquarium shop and purchase Prime or Amquel+ and use it according to your test results for ammonia and nitrItes. This will keep your little ones safe from the toxins in the water until you have your tank fully cycled. Do not continue with the API after you have procured the detoxifier/dechlorinator.

You are very welcome for the help. Feel free to ask ANY question you may have regarding your goldfish OR your tank and filtration......... :)

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

will do, i'll go out and get some amquel+ and prime tomrow...if i can find it.

-sigh-

it was rather stupid adding Porkers this morning- for he began to act strange again.

soooo. he's back in the hospital tank- and began acting normal once he was in there.

>.<"

...i guess i'll keep him in there untill the bigger tank is cycled -sigh-.

question: should i put him back on antibiotics? or should i resume his normal diet?

---->thankies ^^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Firstly, stop taking him from tank to tank. Pick one and leave him there. The stress from moving back and forth is'nt going to help. Stability is the key here. ;)

You only need one or the other. Amquel+ OR Prime. Not both.

Don't bother with antibiotic foods or any medications other than salt. Everything you see is caused by the toxins from the cycling phase of the tank. Once the cycling is completed and the water quality is being maintained, then and only then will your goldfish begin to heal and become healthy once again.

Next, please answer these questions:

What is the pH of your water straight out of the tap? Draw a glass of water and test it for pH and post the results.

Now, draw a pail or large bowl of water straight from the tap and test it after you have let it sit out for 24 hours (stirring occasionally). Record the test results so that you can post it along with the test results above.

-------------------------

pH from tap:

pH after 24 hours:

pH in the tank:

-------------------------

I am concerned about the pH values in your tank water. Its not extremely terribly low but its value being that low is indicative of a lack of proper buffering capacity. This can easily be remedied by utilizing baking soda and/or commercial buffers and/or crushed oyster shells/coral. Once we have the test results from above, we'll have a much beter understanding of how we need to proceed with fixing your water quality issues........ ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...