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Tap Water 7.6 - 7.8, Tank Water 8.0 - 8.2?


daust

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My tank is fully cycled. Tank ph has always been between 8.0 and 8.2. Fish are healthy, water parameters are fine. I always condition new water with Prime and let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. Water out of the tap is between 7.6 -7.8 though. Why is there such a difference in ph from tap to tank? :blink:

Angela

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http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/...l=dissolved+CO2

You may want to check out the above thread. There was another member who was seeing their pH rise steadily over time and the culprit was dissolved CO2. When you take water straight from the tap, any dissolved CO2 will begin to go into gas form and cause a your pH to appear more acidic, then slowly move to basic.

So you'll have to let your water stand out over night (with or w/o aeration) to allow the pH to correct.

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The only decor in my tank are plastic plants, a plastic volcano ornament, river stones (the grey, green and pinky/white ones) and about a cupful of white aquarium gravel scattered about. Ofcouse everything is covered in green algae so you really can't see any colour except green now! When I had a 40 gallon with nothing but gravel and live plants, the ph was 8.2 as well. Filter substrate is plastic Bioballs and ceramic noodles, sponges and DSL material for filtration. For some reason, over the past two years since I set up tanks, no matter which tank or what is in them, the ph is rock steady between 8.0 and 8.2. :hmm

Angela

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So you'll have to let your water stand out over night (with or w/o aeration) to allow the pH to correct

Sorry, I didn't see this before I posted again. I condition new water with Prime and let it stand for a minimum of 24 hours before I use it. It's not that the ph goes up or down; it has always stayed the same between 8.0 and 8.2 whether before or after a water change.

Angela

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Sorry, I didn't see this before I posted again. I condition new water with Prime and let it stand for a minimum of 24 hours before I use it. It's not that the ph goes up or down; it has always stayed the same between 8.0 and 8.2 whether before or after a water change.

Angela

Huh? I'm confused. Wasn't your original question why tap water pH is different from tank water pH?

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Huh? I'm confused. Wasn't your original question why tap water pH is different from tank water pH?

Sorry, what I meant is that even after a water change, the ph in the tank is the same. Wouldn't the tank ph lower at least slightly with the introduction of lower ph tap water? :blink:

Angela

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Sorry, what I meant is that even after a water change, the ph in the tank is the same. Wouldn't the tank ph lower at least slightly with the introduction of lower ph tap water? :blink:

Angela

It depends. I'm not sure of the mechanisms that affect the pH, but I remember a few KGW members said that they get their pH equilibrated with some quick aeration. In the end, what's going on is that you have something called kH. Depending on how high it is, it'll reset your pH to its equilibrium either fairly quickly or fairly slowly (or if it's super low: cause massive fluctuations).

You said that you let your water stand for at least 24hours, have you tested that water after standing (before adding to the tank)? How's the pH?

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Unfortunately my test kit, which is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals does not have tests for KH or GH (is that correct?). It is a drop test and tests ph, high range ph, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. I'll have to look at the lfs next time to see if I can purchase a kit that tests these other (KH etc.) parameters. Hmmm...I've never tested the water from the tap after standing. I'll try that. Our town water is drawn from a natural aquifer, is very hard and has a very high iron content. I wonder if any of those characteristics could be affecting my ph? As long as the ph is stable however, 8.0 - 8.2 should be fine right? I've heard trying to artificially lower it can mess things up.

Angela

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Unfortunately my test kit, which is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals does not have tests for KH or GH (is that correct?). It is a drop test and tests ph, high range ph, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. I'll have to look at the lfs next time to see if I can purchase a kit that tests these other (KH etc.) parameters. Hmmm...I've never tested the water from the tap after standing. I'll try that. Our town water is drawn from a natural aquifer, is very hard and has a very high iron content. I wonder if any of those characteristics could be affecting my ph? As long as the ph is stable however, 8.0 - 8.2 should be fine right? I've heard trying to artificially lower it can mess things up.

Angela

Water hardness (dissolved minerals) will show up on the gH test. You're right about leaving the pH the way it is, if it's stable where it's at then don't bother messing with it. Your fish are better off at a stable pH than one that you have to constantly monitor b/c you're shifting its equilibrium.

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