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Medi-gold And Metro-med


Guest Chipie

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Hi,

I was wondering about the medicated food Medi-gold. I read in this forum that it has some medication in it. What would be the medication in it ? I went to the fishsempai web site and in the description it does not say what type of medication is found in it. Only says that it contains vitamins, krill meal, fish meal and other kind of food.

I would like to buy some medicated food for my goldies but i'm a bit confused on which to get. My fish aren't sick but it is just to be on the safe side since i can't get those medicated foods locally.

Would you recommend i buy both medi-gold and metro-med or just medi-gold. How about Prazi, should i get some also ? It's rather expensive that one.

And Pro-Gold is it really better that omega one or Bio-Blend ?

What do you think ?

Thanks

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  • Regular Member

MediGold is ProGold with antibiotics added. It has all the ingredients you listed plus sulfadimethoxine & ormetoprim sulfa), plus oxolinic acid and kannamycin. These four antibiotics are fairly good at defeating a large number of common bacterial problems in the fish. MetroMeds contain Metronidazole as well as an antibiotic - they can also help with some internal parasites.

Both medications have a definate shelf life. I have found that opening and packaging smaller doses in a vacumn sealed pack will extend this shelf life to about 3-6 months. Much beyond that, I would not trust it to do what it should. Because of this, it is generally not a good idea to lay in a supply of the food/medication too early - it may not be any good by the time you need it. Rick, of Goldfish Connection, is remarkable with his quick responses and turnaround when you order from him. He can have meds to you within a day or two for most people!

Prazi - Praziquantel - is an impressive parasitic agent. It is really the only thing I will use when dealing with flukes and a few other parasites. It will not kill ALL parasites, but covers a lot wider variety than just about any other medication/treatment out there. It is well worth the money. I would suggest that if you have a mind to use Prazi, buy the 100% Prazi powder. The pre-mixed formulas tend to be much weaker than I prefer to use. PRazi powder is very expensive but a little goes a very long way. It has a VERY long shelf life - it will keep for years. I found the cheapest here:

http://www.utahkoi.com/html/praziquantel.html

You can also buy smaller amounts from Goldfish Connection and a few other places.....

I happen to be a big fan of ProGold. But I do not feed it exclusively. I have a whole group of foods that I feed - many flake types that are added to my gel foods as well as many sinking pellets and other types. ProGold comes in a larger pellet - something I LOVE. I also incorporate some koi foods into my feeding regiment - they, too, come in larger size. Mix it up - if you like or can get a food, then add it into your fish's diet.

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Thank you so much for making this clearer for me. I'm about to put my goldfish in a new bigger tank and i'm worried about the stress it will put on them. My Pearlscale has swim bladder problems. He is active and swims quite well but as soon as he stops swimming he's standing on his head. I'm a bit worried about him.

Would giving medi-gold to my goldies when i put them in the new tank help them go through that stress ?

What do you think ?

Thanks

Andr?e R

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Personally, I would resist the temptation to medicate without a specific reason for doing so. MediGold and Metromeds are antibiotic foods. They are not meant to be stress relievers. They are drugs - for a specific purpose. HAving a larger volume of clean water will be a wonderful treat for the fish - and should not be a stressor at all.

If you do decid to feed them to your fish, remember that you MUST feed them exclusively for at least 10 days straight.

What happens with antibiotics is that they will kill the "weakest" bacteria in the first few days, and then, as they constantly beat away at the nasty bacteria the rest of the days, the bacteria will all die off. If you only feed a little bit, here and there, you will manage to kill of the less virilant bacteria, leaving the ones that are more resistant to the antibiotics to multiply and grow. The next time you go to use the same antibiotic, the bacteria are already resistant to it to a degree. Eventually, you can create a bacteria that is resistant to all the antibiotics you have in your arsenal. This would be a VERY bad thing. That is kind of what is happening in human medicine these days. That is why you will find many doctors going back to the original sulfa drugs and such - in hopes that the bacteria have mutated past their resistance to the "old" drugs....

A fish that is not solid in the water when it swims can be the result of many different things - or combination of things. Many fish, possibly who had a bad start in life or withstood a time with very bad water (Nitrite being a BIG culprit in my book), have life long problems with nitrates. I have had a few fish that could not tolerate nitrates much over 10ppm in the water without getting floaty. You might see if lower nitrates will help your pearlscale.

Many, deep bodied fish are floaty if they are fed pellet food. They have digestive slowdowns - their body shape smashed the insides up such that it is not a straight shot through the intestines. This can cause slow downs. Any time there is food in the digestive tract long enough, it can start to ferment, releasing gas. This can cause a fish to be floaty. Try upping the amount of greens your fish is getting. I have had some fish that literally live on a gel food diet that is VERY heavy on the greens. All their protien is received in the gel food, ground up with the green material.

Some female fish have problems with floatiness. Eggs, unless properly passed, can also ferment and cause gas in the fish.

Lower water temperatures will slow a fish's activity down -t hey are cold blooded. This slows digestion - once again leaving food inside to ferment.

Bacteria can sometimes be the culprit to a floaty fish. Or - more commonly - a fish has a slowed digestion due to temp., food type, nitrates, etc. and/or eggs that have started to ferment, and a bad bacteria sets up shop in the intestines. This type of problem needs to be addressed with a combination attack.

Lower the nitrates, warm the tank to at least 78F., pump the greens and see where you get. If this does not help in a relatively short period of time, you may wish to feed Medigold to see if it helps. Do not be afraid to feed it for a LONG time - at least 2 weeks in my book. You need to get a certain percentage of the fish's weight in food into it on a daily basis for the dose of medicine to be great enough to do the job. So the fish has to be eating and eating well. I recommend feeding Medigold/Metromeds/Antibiotic Food to fish in at least 3 small meals a day - to keep the med level as high as possible. This will mean you need to keep a close eye on the water parameters and change out what you need to in able to keep the water parameters in good shape.

A larger tank should help out in temp and water parameters. The larger the volume of the water, the slower the changes in temperature and parameters will be. This will give you more time to react.

If you feel that this fish needs more care than your others, leave it behind in the smaller tank when you move the others. This may make it easier to treat.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Ditto, it would be the same thing as you taking an anti with out being sick, it strips your good bugs in your digestive track and can make you more easily able to catch something else, same goes with goldfish :D

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I just wanted to say - WOW! Daryl - once again you have impressed the HECK outta me! I'm so glad that you are around to share the knowlege with us all. And i think that you have some very lucky fish there. Dana.

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