Jump to content

Parasite?


fantailfan1

Recommended Posts

  • Regular Member

Hi Fantail! :D

I have been researching about MG/F treatments and found a good source for the malachite green chloride/Formalin combo. It seems that RidIch+ (not plain RidIch) utilizes the less toxic form of MG. Soooo, If at all possible, I would try to find a local source (or online) for RidIch+ and give that one a go for a week straight. At least until I can finish up my experiment. I think you might just find that it works for your particular strain......

Here's a link to Kordons directions and explanaition of their formulation and dosage regime:

http://www.novalek.com/kpds.htm Scroll down in the column on the left and click on RidIch+. I think you'll find some useful info there......

Good luck and keep plugging away at it ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 412
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Regular Member

Do you prefer the RidIch+ to Proform C? Just curious as you have done a ton of research on both. Which ever one you prefer is the one I'll get. :D

Hope Spud's treatment is going well. ;)

Oh and I must say I am about to burst!! I now have an empty :o 90 gallon tank in my laundry room and my dad got a pic of my stand from my uncle. So jsut as soon as I get this treatment underway, I can get it cycling (Bio Spira is in my frig). :panana

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

OK so I've done some reading on the links you provided for ProForm C and RidIch+. They seem like similar products--both using the less toxic form of malachite green, as you mentioned.

Is ProForm C a stronger concentration of malachite green? If so, would that be better to use or possibly too hard on my fish?

I also found a local store that carries RidIch+ and has it in stock. So I am leaning towards that as both my husband and I ahve this week off so I would have some time to get treatment started, sterilize my equipment in PP, and get the 90 gallon started cycling. However, if you think Proform C would be better I will get that ordered instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I believe that they are essentially the same thing, just a different manufacturer. However, because of the fact that Proform C's MG and F seems to be mixed together prior to treatment, it might be a "fresher" mix. At least, this is what I gather from reading about them. Give the RidIch+ a go first.

Also, I have found that MG/F seems to be more effective if you were to up the dosing regime to every 8-12 hours instead of every 24 hours. Although, a 100% change should be done, between additions, to be sure that the levels are not rising above the prescribed ppm.

The 8-12 hour regeime seems to keep the levels and efficacy of the meds high enogh so that there isn't a lag time where the meds have dissipated any. this makes for NO time for the parasites to rest....... ;)

This may just be the regime that kicks your chilo's booty ......... :)

Go ahead and get your 90 cycling with the bio-spira. Be VERY, VERY careful about cross contamination. In fact, it might be a good idea (its up to you, really) to go ahead and fill it up, get the filters and all running and hit it with a strong PP solution for a few days. Then, deactivate it with dechlorinator and/or hydrogen peroxide. Once deactivated and clear, you can begin the cycling. Even if this first treatment of RidIch+ doesn't kill all of the chilo off and you need another round o two, you can keep your tanks bio-filter going by either feeding it fishfood, or feed it pure ammonia (no suds or scents). I prefer the ammonia route.

Once your treatment regime is over, allow for a weeks time without treatment to verify (with your scope), that the chilo is indeed dessimated before you add any fish back to the tank. Also, each day, when you are doing maintenence and whatnot, do the 90 gallon before you go mess with the treatment vats. This will help reduce the chance of cross-contamination.

Good luck! I got my fingers crossed for you........ :D

Paul

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

OK I got the goods.

I picked up the RidIch+ this morning. I have the 10 gallond treatment tank set up with temp matched dechlorinated water (I used Prime. I'm assuming this is OK to use with RidIch+?). I also have an airstone running. Now for a few questions:

I have a small sponge filter available. Do you think I should use it? Or is it not necessary because I will be doing 2 100% water changes a day? (Less stuff in the tank, less places for the chilo to hide? And I can eventually use the sponge filter in my fry tank so it won't go to waste.)

I'm going to continue this treatment for 7 days. Should I also be doing salt dips? If so, how often? What is the minimum amount of time that you get any benefit from a dip? (I ask because Big D did not tolerate his last one very well. The veins dilated in his tail/fins right afterward and he wasn't looking so hot. I'd like to keep the # of dips and the amount of time in the dips to a minimum.)

I'm going to dose this 1st dose at 1 tsp per gallon as the bottle suggests and make sure they tolerate that well. Do you think I should do 1.5Xs? (It says on the bottle not to over or underdose.)

And, finally--Now that I have them out of the main tank, I need to take it down and sterilize it. I got some PP (crystal form) from Sears. How much do I dissolve in what amount of water? The things I'm reusing are: my river rock, the fake log thing they sleep in, and my Eheim canister. I actually bought all new media and filter floss for it so as to not take ANY chance of some lil bugger surviving the PP. So I'll need to PP the filter itself and the tubing. Oh and my Python. Do I soak all of this in a big tub of PP?

Again--sorry for all the questions. I just want to get this treatment right and the equipment sterilized properly! ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Ok, yet another question. :unsure:

The fish have been in the tank with the RidIch+ added for about 30 minutes. Big D's tail (and Shoomey's but to a much lesser degree) has more red in it now than when I put him in 30 minutes ago. I'm assuming this is from the stress of the medication.

However, both fish are swimming around and acting fine. I'm assuming, as you said before, that as long as they are acting OK and eating, I should leave them in the treatment tank?

(Perhaps I should watch them from a distance. From where I'm sitting now, they look great! :D )

Oh and they have never looked so big! Both of them in that 10 gallon with nothing to look at but the fish!! :krazy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Yeah, they're probably wondering what happened to their other tank, huh? :rolleyes:

Yep, the redness appearing in their tails goes hand in hand with the MG and F causing some stress. As you probably know, they can and do displace a lot of dissolved oxygen. This is why its recommended to supply vigorous aeration in the form of either an aerator and/or powerhead pump with the outflow aimed across the surface. And your absolutely correct, as long as they act fine, they should BE fine. ;)

Now, as for sterilizing with PP, I would use up to a teaspoon per ten gallons. Of course, I don't know the grade PP that your using but they are all pretty close. Either way, use enough so that the water becomes a nice burgundy color. Not so much that you cant see to the back of the tank, but, you don't want it to be too weak either. In short, the precise ppm is not that important for disinfecting dips for equipment.

Yes, disinfect everything that you plan on using in the newly disinfected and cycling tank. Even if it has dried out since the last use. Chilodonella has recently been found to be able to encyst itself during times that the waters contain toxins that effect them. There is also proof that at least one species of chilo (chilodonella uncinata) can avoid dessication by encysting itself and ressurect when conditions are favorable for them. Now, I dont know if this applies to other specias but C. Uncinata seems to be a close match for the morphological descroption of the species my tanks are harboring. Perhaps that is why I am having such a tough time with it myself. Your species is called chilodonella cyprini and/or chilodonella piscicola. I believe they are the same animal.

Since one of your goldies seems to have shown that it cannot handle dips for quite as long as the other, try to tailor to his capabilities for doing so. Shorten his duration by a minute OR weaken the % by a bit. All in all, I would only perform the dips every other day if you plan on going the full week. The exact amount of time for them to be beneficial isn't as important as the fact that it helps to get their slime coats to purge and replenish itself. I believe that a parasites best AND worst friend is the slime coat. It can impede their invasion but by the same token, it can also harbor them safely from the efficacy of medication. The sloughing of the old slime coat is the most important factor in a salt dip for parasites. During salt dips, MANY parasites are sloughed away. Also, the heavy salt concentration and then back into no salt concentration causes their (chilo's) bodies osmoregulation to go into hyperdrive wich weakens their immunodefenses. Essentially, its saps some of their strength if it does not outright kill them.

Since your going to be doing waterchanges twice a day, I think that the sponge-filter would be for naught. Instead, try to concentrate on removing any and all poo or uneaten food via a small syphon tube such as airline tubing. You can use a couple rubberbands to secure the airline to a plastic or wooden stick so that its easier to manuever across the bottom.

Have you been scoping the mulm/detritus in the fry tank to see if they have chilo running around in there? :huh:

Good luck and keep us posted :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member
Yeah, they're probably wondering what happened to their other tank, huh? :rolleyes:

Yes, I'm sure they are feeling a bit cramped as they are used to a tank 4 times the size of the treatment tank.  They seem to be doing OK though.

. . . . This is why its recommended to supply vigorous aeration in the form of either an aerator and/or powerhead pump with the outflow aimed across the surface. And your absolutely correct, as long as they act fine, they should BE fine.  ;)

I only have one airstone running.  Should I add another?  The air pump is for up to a 40 gallon tank so it could handle 2 easily.  I have the one running at "full throttle"--lots of movement/air flow in the tank.

. . .  In short, the precise ppm is not that important for disinfecting dips for equipment.

Great! I jsut wanted a rough idea --wasn't sure if I should use 1 tsp per 10 gallons or 1 cup per 10 gallons!

Since your going to be doing waterchanges twice a day, I think that the sponge-filter would be for naught. Instead, try to concentrate on removing any and all poo or uneaten food via a small syphon tube such as airline tubing.

Should I do this anytime I see poo or food on the bottom you mean?

Have you been scoping the mulm/detritus in the fry tank to see if they have chilo running around in there? :huh:

Nope haven't had the guts.  Don't want to know--unless of course it's chilo free!  I'll get the scope out in a few days (after I've taken time to sterilize the stuff I'm reusing).  Can't do too much about chilo in the fry tank right now anyway as they are too small for any treatments and I don't have any parasite free water for a water change (yet).

448847[/snapback]

One last question: When I do the water changes I've actually got 2 10 gallons I'm working with. I'll get teh 2nd one set up, do the dip when needed, then put them in the 2nd ten gallon. Wait 15 minutes or so for them to recover from the dip then add the RidIch+. Now the question is--what should I do to sterilize the 10 gallon they were originally in? Empty it and then wash it out with some PP dissolved in water?

Hope that made sense! And I hope this works!! I am sooooo stressed jsut looking at all those dilated vessels in D's tail! It did get better for a while but now it's not looking so good again. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

The dialated veins are a temorary thing. Not to worry.

Yes, whenever go to check up on them and you see poo and stuff settled on the bottom, go ahead and syphon it out. Less poo equals better efficacy of the meds and less stuff for the chilo to subsist on. Not to mention, less of a chance of ammonia building in between changes. Not that it will be a problem with two changes a day.....

Your aeration sounds fine, don't stress it too much.

I know what you mean about the fear of finding them in there. True enough, even if they are in there, theres not much you can do quite yet. Lemme know what you find.

As far as using PP, I think it would be a good idea for you to keep a bucket of heavily PP'ed water sitting onhand for tossing stuff into between usage. Like for the airline tubing for sucking out poo and other equipment, nets and anything else that is coming into contact with the treatment vats. You might be successsful in killing them off only to use the equipment the next day and re-infect. Basically, your going to be running a laboratory type sterile environment, you know? :huh:

Rinsing out the ten gallon tanks between uses, first with cold tapwater and then with hot tapwater, should destroy (cook) any chilo that is remaining. Be thorough about it. Scrubbin with a PP paste would certainly help too. Just make a good paste out of it and use an algae scrubber. You can even make a "stock paste" to use during all of this.

If you can purchase yourself some kitchen gloves for all the scrubbing and sterilizing. Even though PP is safe to get on your hands, it can easily stain them brown (temorarily)

Hang in there. I have a feeling that yours and Chico's strains are going to be easier to kill than mine. Call it a hunch. ;)

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I sure hope your hunch is correct! This is a lot more work than I thought it would be! :D I shouldn't complain to you though--I'm sure you've been through MUCH more than this!!

I did a 100% waterchange last night and added the meds. They both seemed to tolerate it a bit better that time. But then I did another 100% water change this morning and about 2 hours later, D's tail was redder than ever and they were both "chewing" like crazy. Oh and D spit out food for the first time. Hmmmm . . . I thought symptoms were supposed to disappear with treatment, not begin. :(

Anyway so I'll be doing another 100% water change this evening and I was planning on dipping the fish. They are so stressed already (especially D who doesn't tolerate dips well anyway). Should I do the dip and just keep it to a minimum for D (like sometimes he can only handle 2-2 1/2 minutes, if that)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Well, its up to you. I cant really see them and how they are acting so I cant tell for sure. If you think they can handle it, go ahead. if not, omit the dip for a day or two. the dips are additions to the treatment, not an essential part.

Just remember, medications like MG/F are stressful, no matter how well they destroy parasites. After all, it IS a poison to them just as it is to parasites. Just be sure to watch them for any truly bad reactions when your dosing. Keep some clean dechlorinated water on hand just in case.

Are you scoping to see if theres any chilo remaining? If not, see what you can find.

Good luck. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I think I will wait one more day on the dip--perhaps do days 3, 5, and 7? We'll see how things go.

As for now I am arm deep in disinfecting the old tank and equipment. So far I emptied the old tank, leaving only the tank and filters (took out filter floss, bio wheels, etc). I scrubbed the tank down with PP, rinsed it, and emptied it. Next I refilled the tank and added PP. I started the filters running and will run for 4-5 hours, making sure the water stays bright purple. Once that is done, should I empty the tank again, refill with clean water, run the filters for a while then empty the tank? Is there any additional treatment needed for the filters?

Also can I use the PP on my river rock that I ahd in the tank? Should I scrub them then soak in PP?

Oh and when I scope for chilo--what should I put under the slide? No filters so I can't use filter gunk. A drop of tank water? :idont

And what about my Python? How do I sterilize it? I've been emptying the tank using it but I'm assuming that just running water with PP thru it isn't enough?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

the python question is a good one. I wish there were an easy way. A bucket of heavily PP-ed water and submerging the tubing in it so that no airspots are left would be the best way. Let it soak for at least 4 hours. Perhaps even IN the tank as its being sterilized.

You'll need to let the tank run with water in it for a couple days. "Feed" it some food and collect the food after a few days to see if any chilo surfaces. I would let the food sit on the bottom or collect in the filter floss of a cartridge so that any chilo has time to congregate there, IF they are even there anymore. I'm sure there are other ways to try this so try to brainstorm a bit with me.

Yes, you can PP ANYTHING. As long as its not organic in nature, the PP wont harm anything but living stuff or wood. So clean, scrub and rinse the river rock and allow it to sit in the tank with the PP-ed water. You can use dechlorinator to deactivate the PP and then use hydrogen peroxide to turn the water clear again. the water is essentially ready for use after the hydrogen peroxide is used. The hydrogen peroxide is an added layer of disinfection as it will destroy all things alive that come into contact with it so use it heavily.... ;)

I know its a long drawn out process but it is definitely necessary. :exactly

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

You'll need to let the tank run with water in it for a couple days. "Feed" it some food and collect the food after a few days to see if any chilo surfaces. I would let the food sit on the bottom or collect in the filter floss of a cartridge so that any chilo has time to congregate there, IF they are even there anymore. I'm sure there are other ways to try this so try to brainstorm a bit with me.

Which tank are you referring to--the fry tank, the tank D and S are in now, or the main tank I'm sterilizing now?

So if I throw (OK maybe not throw) the river rock in the tank (after scrubbing it)that is being sterilized along with the fake log and the python, that should sterilize that stuff?  Once all that is done, I still need to empty the tank out so I can set up my new tank. :o

449195[/snapback]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Now they won't eat. :cry1 What should I do?

I was going to switch them over to the other tank and do the 2nd dose for the day. Should I still do that? Or leave them in the tank they are in now? Or switch them over to the other tank with new water and no meds (or 1/2 dose and see how they do)?

I'm worried. They always eat. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Well I couldn't watch them in that tank anymore. They started hanging out at the top and jsut not looking good. So i put them in their other 10 gallon with dechlor tap water but no RidIch+ yet.

Shoomey is playing in the bubbles from the airstone. D mostly sits in the corner with his dorsal fin a bit clamped but not all the way. He also has a tiny (the size of a pinpoint) spot of blood on the kinda transparent flap the covers his gill. And with all the redness in his fins and tail, I do see a bit of red at the base. It looked like that yesterday when his veins got so dilated but went away once he settled down and the redness went down.

Now what? :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Sorry id didn't seem to be working out with the RidIch+. :(

Your either going to love me or hate me for this..... :donthit:

I have just found a little bit of info that I think you would be interested to read. I started a thread over at a forum that I know a few seriously smart koi and goldfish keepers reside. In fact, I got a reply from their local chemist/keeper, Roddy, and he had some interesting stuff to say. I think your going to like this:

http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.p...25&page=1&pp=10

This is News to me so please don't hate me for taking you through these other methods. I have yet to find a single mention of goldfish being able to handle that % for that long. but, As I said above, Roddy is a chemist and a serious keeper. Plus, he stated that he has done this for fancies and common/comet types alike and the results were the same. Anyway, I'll letcha go read it............

So, whatcha think? :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I think it won't let me read your link. I registered and it says I don't have "privileges" to enter.

I'm pretty sure I won't hate you. I kinda get the feeling that he suggests using a high percent salt dip. D probably wouldn't tolerate it either.

So I'm assuming I did OK taking them out of there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I am not the expert here, but I would say you did okay putting them into the fresh tank. I wouldn't be able to stand it either. The fish need to rest a bit.

What the link says is basically this:

Raise the salt level to .8% over a 5 day period, and keep it at that level for about 2 weeks. It is recommended to obtain a salinity meter of some sort when dealing with such high levels of salt.

Try not to kill Toothy just yet.....I still need him..... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Raise the salt level to .8% over a 5 day period, and keep it at that level for about 2 weeks.  It is recommended to obtain a salinity meter of some sort when dealing with such high levels of salt. 

Hmmmm . . ..  I wonder how my fish would tolerate that?  I think we'll have to at least give it a try. :unsure:

Try not to kill Toothy just yet.....I still need him.....

I surely won't kill him--I'm not done with him yet!! :lol:  

449474[/snapback]

Well the fish are looking a bit better this morning (thank God :heart ). The veins in D's tail and fins are much less dilated. And Shoomey's were not too bad to begin with. Their dorsal fins are raised high 90% of the time. They are active (sometimes darting) and D even ate 3 or 4 pellets! :panana Shoomey showed interest in food but spit it out again. But at least she showed interest this morning.

Now where do we go from here? I think we should give the 0.8% salt a try. But when do you think we should start it?

Also how often should I do water changes? I was doing them 2Xs a day and adding more meds but now that we've stopped the RidIch+ is it OK to do one 100% water change daily? Should I run the sponge filter?

One last comment: when we did the Quick Cure, D had some trouble with that also (lots of bottom sitting, decreased appetite, etc). Especially the 2nd round. And neither fish was eating great during that treatment. But within a couple days of stopping it I remember their appetites really increasing. So I'm thinking that the MG/F combos is just not their thing. Let's hope they can tolerate that salt for 5 days and kick that chilos butt!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Actually, what I have been informed is that the salinity should be raised up to 0.8% over the course of at least 5 days and it should be kept there for a minimum of two weeks straight. The salt dips you have been giving are actually double the 0.8% I've been advised. So, From what I have been told, they should be able to gradually "get use" to the 0.8% salinity. Of course, as Chico noted, a salinity meter, based on electroconductivity, is needed to be sure that the salinity remains stable and at the right level. So, it seems that another "toy" is needed for completeing this regime. However, since I too am using a sterile tank scenario, I have a regime worked out, based on 100% waterchanges per day, that shouldn't need the use of a salinity meter. BUT, I am still awaiting verification from Roddy that it will work.

A little on osmoregulation:

As you may know, osmoregulation is the process of taking in and/or expelling salt (the chloride part of sodium chloride). Essentially, thier bodies have to CONSTANTLY maintain a specific level of chloride in their bodies. It is done through every "pore" in their bodies. Osmoregulation is an absolute necessity in that chloride is the element that the kidneys use to expell toxins and/or waste products, such as ammonia, through their gills. This uses energy and can actually exert unneeded stress on the fish as it uses up a lot of their energy stores needed for fending off diseases and infections. If the salinity of the water is very low, or at least lower than what their bloods % is, they are constantly expending energy that is much needed for their immunological functions. Since the salinity of koi and goldfish blood is about 0.9%, a level of 0.8% "should" be easily handled as it will reduce the need for their bodies to keep "pumping" in chloride. This, in turn, would allow for the energies expended to be used for other, more imperative processes such as staving off infections and disease.

I'm still learning the finer points to osmosis myself so the paragraph above might be a little jumbled and meandering. But I think it illustrates the idea behind osmoregulation.

I let you know as soon as I find out...... But, for right now, I would bring your salinity up to 0.45% over the next 4-5 days. By then, I will have everything worked out.

Go ahead and get your big tank up and cycling so that you can, maybe, try this regime in their new home. It would certainly make things a LOT easier on you. But, theres still the chance that it wont kill the chilo or they wont be able to handle the % of salt. Then, you would be left with a chilo infected tank again. But, you DO have the wonderful oxidizing powers of PP and could eaasily knock them out within a few days while your fish are residing back in the tan gallon. Then, you would only have the task of re-cycling the tank again. Follow me on all that? :huh:

Good luck! And again, I'm sorry none of my suggestions have worked out quite the way we would like. After all, I too am still learing new stuff everyday. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member
Actually, what I have been informed is that the salinity should be raised up to 0.8% over the course of at least 5 days and it should be kept there for a minimum of two weeks straight. The salt dips you have been giving are actually double the 0.8% I've been advised. So, From what I have been told, they should be able to gradually "get use" to the 0.8% salinity. Of course, as Chico noted, a salinity meter, based on electroconductivity, is needed to be sure that the salinity remains stable and at the right level. So, it seems that another "toy" is needed for completeing this regime.

I got a chance to read the link.  Very interesting stuff.  Time to buy more salt.

A little on osmoregulation . . .

I'm still learning the finer points to osmosis myself so the paragraph above might be a little jumbled and meandering. But I think it illustrates the idea behind osmoregulation.

Yep, makes sense!!

Go ahead and get your big tank up and cycling so that you can, maybe, try this regime in their new home. It would certainly make things a LOT easier on you. But, theres still the chance that it wont kill the chilo or they wont be able to handle the % of salt. Then, you would be left with a chilo infected tank again. But, you DO have the wonderful oxidizing powers of PP and could eaasily knock them out within a few days while your fish are residing back in the tan gallon.  Then, you would only have the task of re-cycling the tank again. Follow me on all that? :huh:

I'm going to call my uncle tonight and see if he can deliver the stand tomorrow.  I'll get the 90 up and running.  I would guess I'll be doing the majority of the salt thing in the 10 gallon.  We'll see how long it takes to get the 90 cycled.  I don't mind daily 100% water changes in the 10 gallon.  Would once a day be enough?

Good luck! And again, I'm sorry none of my suggestions have worked out quite the way we would like. After all, I too am still learing new stuff everyday. ;)

No problem!!  I am soooo thankful you are sticking with me on this!! :heart

449725[/snapback]

Oh and one more thing--my babies are eating again without spitting!!

:rockon Today has been a much better fish day than yesterday!! They had me worried sick for a while there!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Today has been a good day for Spud too. :D Hes been swimming around eating like a pig and not even waiting for his food to soften on the bottom. Usually, he lits it sit for a while before he decides its soft enough for him to eat. I can only suppose its the gill irritation thats hounding him and other fish with chilo or some other gill parasite OR being treated with a harsh chemical.

Well, I guess we'll have to wait for Roddy's answer to my question about any dangers of treating them at 0.8% in an uncycled environment. I don't see much harm that could come, myself. But, I could certainly be wrong.

Hasta Luego :D

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member
Today has been a good day for Spud too.  :D   Usually, he lits it sit for a while before he decides its soft enough for him to eat.

That is sooooo great to hear!! ;)   That's what my fish did before when I was treating them with QC.

I can only suppose its the gill irritation thats hounding him and other fish with chilo or some other gill parasite OR being treated with a harsh chemical.

That's what I was thinking too.  My fish started eating great a couple days after the last QC treatment then just 1 day into treatment with RidIch+, no interest in food at all.

Well, I guess we'll have to wait for Roddy's answer to my question about any dangers of treating them at 0.8% in an uncycled environment. I don't see much harm that could come, myself. But, I could certainly be wrong.

Yep, I'll keep my eye on your post!!  ;)

449854[/snapback]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I have my new tank and stand. :heart Before I fill it I just want to run by you what I've done to sterilize things and see if there is anything more I should do.

I emptied out (completely--rocks, decorations, etc) the old tank. I scrubbed the fake log, river rocks, and tank with a PP soln. I refilled the tank and put some PP in the tank along with the river rocks, fake log and Python. (I hooked the Python up to the sink and syphoned out enough water with PP to fill the hose.) I ran the filters for about 8 hours with the PP in there. I then dechlorinated the water and added hydrogen peroxide to make the water clear again. I ran the filters another couple of hours til I had time to empty the tank and break everything down.

Now, my new tank is just sitting there empty begging me to fill it. Is there anything else I can do to the Python to sterilize it any more? And what about the filter that I'm reusing (Eheim 2026)? Should I scrub it with PP or a bleach soln just to be safe?

I'm being kinda obsessive about this but I don't want to re-infect the tank if I can help it. (Of course I know I may be adding my fish to it once it's cycled and finishing off the salt treatment.)

Thanks!

Oh and one more question: When I cycle the 90 is it best to have a heater? I have the marineland Stealth heaters on my fry tank and the 20 gallon I'm cycling for the fry. They don't make one big enough for a 90. Would it be best to get 2 of similar size--say 2 heaters for a 50 gallon?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...