Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
fantailfan1

Parasite?

Recommended Posts

No worries on the salt thing Graham ;) . It IS a very valid point about salt stressing a goldfish out. In fact, it CAN be very stressing to a goldfish to go through a 0.3% salting (not to mention acriflavin). ;) We just have to balance the risks with the benefits.... :unsure:

Hi Fantail. :D

If you could, each day you post, try to give us a little rundown on the symptoms you see persisting. Especially the frequencies of the flashing and/or yawning.

Is the flashing exclusively a spinning out in the corner? Or is there ever mouth chattering (coughing) or any rapid fin shaking? Any fin erosion at all (finrot)?

Just trying to narrow down the possibilities here....

My apolagies. I may have been a little hasty to mention that you should go ALL the way through the PC treatment before you go to the Quick Cure (yes, ALL large chain stores carry QC. If not, pick up Maracide) They are the same thing with the same ppm per dosage. Anyway, about halfway through this PC round, we will know if its working by the frequency of the flashing fits. Anyway, it'll be around then we should make the descision to stop and go with QC.

In my opinion, for two fancy goldfish, a 55 gallon would be the PERFECT tank. The water hassles (OOPS! I mean changes :rofl ) aren't bad at all. Also, If you get a 55 gallon, I highly suggest ordering two Marineland Penguin 350's. Their flow rates, spread of the water return ripples, and the depth of a standard 55 gallon tank makes for a VERY synergistic tank/filter combo. The hydrodynamics allows for excellent sweet spots for resting.

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, toothless, here's the daily update (a bit late in the day):

I tested the water params and everything was A-OK--pH 7.6, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate 10. Also I called around and found a lps (that happens to have the 55/75 gallon tank and stand I've been drooling over :druel ) that carries Quick Cure so I can pick that up at any time! :)

As far as their signs go (yesterday was PC dose #3): I saw one yawn today from my little ryukin and no flashing/darting. My dear fantail Dorothy I saw yawn probably 3 or 4 times and flash/dart maybe 5? times.

I haven't seen the spin out in the corner in a couple of days. I'll have to watch more closely tomorrow for coughing--how do I tell that from normal mouth movement? No rapid fin movement noted for days (at least no fin movement that looked "irritated" like they were trying to shake something off). Dorothy has fin erosion but it hasn't gotten any worse the past few days. My ryukin's tail looks pretty good except for one split.

So, now for the good news--both fish were much more active last night after the water change and this morning. They slowed down a bit this afternoon and were more active again this evening. Instead of hanging in the lower 1/3 of the tank they would swim up to about halfway. Much of their movement they seem to be rooting for food in the rocks.

I guess one question is: Is this increase in activity on Dorothy's part a good thing? I've probably seen her dart more today than the past few days. But up until last night she pretty much just sat in her little corner or hid in her log. I took the increase in activity as a sign that she was feeling better as she looked more like herself (well except for the darting/flashing :unsure: ). The darting is not a constant thing and occurs more often than flashing. I'll try and keep a better tally tomorrow. She swims around normally most of the time (that is--when she's swimming--she still sits in her corner or the log a bit) with an occasional dart. Sorry I'm rambling. Like I said, I'll watch more closely tomorrow. Just trying to straighten out the thoughts in my head!

Do you think a 75 gallon is too big for 2 fancies? Or would a 55 be better? The tank/stand/canopy I'm looking at--the price between the 55 and 75 isn't that much. I'm jsut wondering if 75 gallons would be overkill? And I'd be using my Eheim 2026 on either along with one or two HOBs. *goes off to bed with dreams of 2 healthy goldfish in a nice big new tank* :heart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, there really isn't much difference in a 75 gallon and a 55 gallon. Weekly waterchanges will run you between 20 and 35 gallons to keep everything stable (pH included) so Thats your main concerns with a large tank. I believe the the filtration I listed above would still handle the extra 20 gallons as well. ;)

Well, becoming more active, especially foraging for food bits, is a definite improvement.

Keep in mind that with parasites, it isn't always a straightforward progression from good to bad, or from bad to good. Fluctuations in their behavior are a definite possibility when water quality and their general health is maintained. In short, they can live with parasites for quite some time and still be of generally good health. Keeping their water clean as well as extra waterchange/gravel vacs can keep the parasites in check. However, this is more true of facultative parasites (free-living or parasitic) than of obligatory parasites (cannot survive off the host).

Anyway, its beginning to look like Quick Cure will be needed. The next few days will be the deciding factor. Oh, and don't worry, If your goldies are acting as healthy as you've described, Quick Cure will be very safe for them. However, I think it would be a good idae to treat them in an entirely sterile tank or container that is about ten gallons or a bit larger. Their tank should be stripped, cleaned out with a good bleach solution, rinsed well and then left to completely dry for at least 24 hours (in the sun if possible). Then, set it back up and get it cycling again. If you use Bio-spira you can have your tank cycled within 4-7 days. Sooner if you double dose it. All in all, the QC and salt dips treatment should take about as long as it takes to completely re-cycle their tank. ;)

Keep us posted! :)

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Both fish are active again today. Still hanging out in the log but more active than they were a few days ago.

I've got a few questions (of course, sorry :) ) Does Quick Cure treat for jsut ich or other stuff too? Then I'm thinking perhaps if I'm going to be tearing down their current tank anyway . . . and I'm thinking of a new tank . . . . perhaps I should just get the new one now rather than wait for the holidays? However the trick there is I need to order the stand and canopy and don't know how long that would take (my husband is going to swing by the pet store and find out in a couple of hours). If it's going to be a few weeks to get, can I wait that long to do the Quick Cure? FYI the last day of salting will be Nov 20.

Also I'm going to need to get some sort of hospital tank to do the Quick Cure treatments, correct? If I could get away with a 10 gallon that'd be great (no gravel) or should I get something a little bigger? I'll need a separate filter for it too? (I have absolutely nothing as far as spare tanks, equipment, etc) They will need to be in there for about a week or so? Also the salt dips *quivers with fear* can be done in a bucket? And probably only on the larger fish (smaller one is only 3" nose to end of body)?

I'm having my husband see how much the 75 gallon would run us. I'm currently running 50% water changes on my 37 (with a Python) so I guess if I could do like 30 gallons on the bigger tank that wouldn't be that much more work.

Now you recommended the Penguin 350s. I've also read alot of good things about Emporer filters. Which do you prefer?

Finally one last kinda morbid question--before I go spending some pretty hefty $$ on a new tank for my dear fish, are we pretty sure they will pull thru this? I know you can't say with certainty but I'm really attached to Dorothy and she's the main reason I would like to upgrade. Sounds silly I know--I think it's guilt from how I treated her for 2 1/2 years before I found Koko's. Started in a bowl *cringe* then a 2 gallon tank then a 6 gallon til just a few months ago.

Again, sorry for all the questions, I just want to get this right!! :yeah:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another late daily update:

Water params were perfect again so I did the water change, salted, added dose #4 of PC. The fish are acting much like they did yesterday. Still quite active. I was busier today than I expected so I didn't get a good chance to sit and observe like I was hoping.

I did notice Dorothy lost 2 more scales. The reason I know is because they tend ot kinda hang on "by a thread" for a couple of hours during which she was doing a lot of darting/flashing. Can she feel the scale hanging like that? I hope so as that would explain all the darting and flashing. She lost one this morning and the other one late afternoon/early evening. Still noticing a few good yawns here and there.

My ryukin looks good. No loss of scales or finrot. No darting/flashing and I only noticed 1 yawn. No rapids fin shaking from either fish.

My husband checked out the new tank/stand/canopy. We were hoping (as we were told it could be) to have it stained to match our cabinets as the style matches but not the color but now they say they can't special order it that way but may be able to get it unfinished and we can stain it to match. They have to check iwth their distributor. So it's lookin like that will probably take longer than we want. I'll still probably get it but won't count on getting it before we get to the Quick Cure (which they DID have :) ).

I do need to work on that 2nd tank though to keep them in while I strip down there current tank. And as much as i'd love to let it sit in the sun while drying, it's November in Michigan and I don't think we'll see much of the sun til March!! That's why I was originally planning on upgrading the tank in Jan/Feb--get my mind off the gray sky and onto a nice new tank!! ;)

Oh one more thing--the tank water looked a bit cloudy to me today before the water change. Any idea what might be causing that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

(Thanks Laurie and Toothless - thank you for the encouragement - I just stick to what I know - you guys are the docs! Besides, too many cooks... :D )

Fantail - look at the donation buttons on my siggy - there's one for everytime the mods on this forum have saved Graham's life! You are in the very best of hands!

In answer to your last question, it is perfectly understandable! I asked the same thing sometimes... but each time I got him what he needed, he grew! All I can say is, it is an investment! Perhaps you might look at Craigslist or something similar to get less expensive equipment if you think you may not want to have other fish besides Dorothy. I basically feel like I will always have fish now because I have invested so much, not just equipment, but knowledge, that I want to keep using it! I would just plan on having Dorothy around for a good long time! :heart

PS - yes, QC does treat other things than Ich, it also treats flukes and ciliated parasites. Good luck with the treatments!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Graham. I will upgrade at some point--it's just a matter of getting that tank and stand to match my cabinets so it looks like part of the house/furniture. (I know it's silly but it's in a main area of my house and I want it to look nice.) And I am about to check out that donation site. I've been meaning to do that for a while. I really love this site and want to support it!!

And now . . . . the update:

Water params were fine, changed water, salted, added 5th and final dose of PC. :D

I work on Mondays and yesterday was really busy so I still haven't gotten in as much observation time as I would have liked but this is what I have seen:

My lovely ryukin is looking great!! I haven't noticed any abnormal behavior and he's acting like his old self again. (Again this is in the short time I ahd to watch but he does look pretty darn good :nana )

Dorothy my fantail :heart is doing pretty good also. She still does some bottom sitting in the corner and I noticed her darting a few times today. She has begun to do her pre-parasite "sommersault" trick where she swims a short distance and then does a complete 360 like a diver off of a diving board. She is in total control when she does it--she circles around head first and then continues swimming on like nothing ever happened. So other than a bit more bottom sitting (compared to pre-treatment Dorothy) and some darting, she looks good. (Tail is still ragged but I suppose that takes time to heal?)

Now for my questions :yeah:

When do I do my next water change--in 48 hours (as I just put in more PC) or my normal water change day (Saturday)?

Wednesday will be day 14 of MediGold. Should I stop that or continue for 7 more days?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fantail I am letting Paul guide you from here. He is doing such a great job. Just wanted to tell you I am watching from the sidelines. Great to hear the fishies are getting better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Laurie. It's nice to hear that you are thinking of us. :) And I really do appreciate your help on this!!

And I jsut wanted to add one more thing

:panana The first of Dorothy's scales (that she lost before this whole parasite thing started) has finally grown back!!!!! It was missing for probably like a month but I noticed it's back now. I take that as a good sign. :panana

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yay!!! I would take it as a good sign as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi fantailfan1,

Reading with delight! Glad to hear of the improvement! Hang in there....you're doing great work!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would perform a 25% waterchange.

I'm glad your goldies are doing a bit better. :D From the sounds of it, I am not completely satisfied with the results of the PC. Do you think its time to pull out the big guns? :huh:

In all honesty, if you still see the flashing, then I would go with the quick Cure. But, remember that it can trip up your bio-filter a bit so be vigilant with the waterchanges as per the test results. Do not add a new dose of QC until you have performed at least a 25% waterchange.

Keep us posted. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So can I do the Quick Cure in their current tank?! :)

And if so, should I wait til the 30 days of 0.3% salt is complete (November 20)?

When should I stop the MediGold (Wed will be 14 days)? Should I continue for a bit longer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can probably stop the medi-gold for now. Same with the salt.

Treating them in their tank, as is, is entirely up to you. I prefer to do it in a sterile tank without a bio-filter with disinfecting washes in between each daily addition of QC. This allows the meds to go unimpeded in the tankwater without being expended on biological matter that is not part of the problem. In short, the formalin will expend much of its efficacy in oxidizing food and poo and whatnots. Same goes for malachite green. If you go with a separate container for treatment, you only need to worry about ammonia building up. Ammonia is EASY to control if you utilize Prime or amquel plus or ammo-lock.

If you treat them in their tank, as-is, then you will have to monitor ammonia AND nitrItes. If nitrItes rise as a result of the meds, you wont be albe to use salt to guard against nitrIte poisoning as salt is not compatible with QC when treating goldfish. The ammonia aspect, as I stated above, is easy to control. Unless you have an outstanding bio-filter with loads of bio-media that is well colonized, I believe you should expect a jump in both ammonia AND nitrItes if you treat them in their tank, as-is. In this scenario, you would have to perform as large a waterchange, daily (even twice daily) while adding back the percentage of meds that was removed by the waterchange. Its more labor intensive, but works without having to disrupt the entire bio-filter. I cannot garauntee total eradication with this scenario.

So, the choice is yours. Just remember that if you treat them in a spearate container, you will have to break-down and disinfect their entire main tank with either a bleach/water solution or potassium permanganate. Then, i suggest you cycle the tank with bio-spira. It should take less than a week to complete the cycling process. The majority of protozoan infections are from free-living organisms that can survive without fish. So, even if the treatment is successful, you will only add them back to the organisms that are causing this in the first place. :huh:

So, whatcha think is your best route?

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I'm a little confused on either option so let me ask a few questions and then decide. :)

If I do a sterile tank:

What is the procedure? Do I need to cycle that tank first? I do not have any other tanks besides teh one they are in now so what would I need to purchase? (I know I should have a spare tank for future use as a hospital tank so I do not mind getting one.) Tank, filter, air pump and stone . . . What size would you recommend as I would be treating 2 fancies?

I ahve not yet purchased teh Quick Cure so I ahve no idea as far as the directions. Do you add it to the water and leave it there or is it something that you treat them in a separate container for a few minutes then back to the tank? (Like a dip?) And what do you mean by "disinfecting washes in between eahc daily dose of QC"? Disinfecting the treatment tank? And what would that involve?

If I do it in my tank:

Large daily water changes are not a problem.

Does this statement:"The majortiy of protozoan infections are from free-living organisms that can survive without a fish. So even if the treatment is successful, you will only add them back to the organisms that are causing this in the first place." apply to either scenario--separate tank or done in their current tank? So really we cannot guarantee total eradication with either scenario?

If it does apply to either scenario then isn't it easier to jsut do it in their current tank if the only drawback to that is large daily water changes? I do not mind doing a couple large water changes a day and testing the water.

Oh I'm so confused. Sorry for all the questions but I've obviously never done anything like this before. :crp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, one more question--how many treatments of QC will I do? Need to know so I know how big of a bottle to get. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the smallest bottle available. You only need one single drop per gallon of treated water. ;)

The separate treatment tank scenario:

Firstly, you should use a good aerator and airstone in this scenario. The container should be at least 5 gallons for two small fancies, 10 gallons is better. This tank or container should be a tank or plastic bin that you do not care about stains on (QC stains plastic, vinyl and new tanks silicone, blue/green). This tank/bin should NOT be cycled. Feed sparingly and use a small bit of airline tubing to remove any poo that settles. Ammonia will be your ONLY worry as long as you have a good KH/pH. Each day, you will be changing out ALL of the water and sterilizing the tank/bin while the fish sit in a small temporary container. Once the tank/bin is sterilized, you fill it back up with dechlorinated water. Here's is where you do, or do not, perform your salt dips (I would suggest 1.5% dips for 5 minutes salt dip link). Once the salt dip is done manually remove your fish from the dip container to the tank/bin of fresh water. Let them settle in for about 15-30 minutes or so. Then add the daily dose of QC (one drop per gallon). The dose should be added in a small cup of water from the tank. This way, you can be sure your adding the correct amount of drops BEFORE you add it to the tank. Otherwise, you could slip up and add too many drops and have to start all over again with fresh water. Okay, you are now done and can relax for 24 hours. Repeat this process for 3-5 days. If salt dips are tried, perform one salt dip on day 1,3 and 5. If you still see a bit of flashing, scratching or fin-shaking after the day 5 dose is over, go one more full round just as before. Sometimes it takes a second punch to knock them out.

In tank scenario:

Ammonia AND nitrItes are likely to rise to readable, and stressable levels if you treat them in a tank with a cycle. Because salt solutions can NOT be run with QC (on goldfish), you wont be able to safeguard against nitrIte poisoning in any efficient way. Within 3 days, some could seep in under that radar and stress your fish even further. You COULD try using prime as per instructions but there is no listed ppm that any single dose of Prime supposedly detoxifies. So, its a guessing game there. I do not like to guess when it comes to using chemicals in tankwater.... Otherwise, keep the levels as low as you possibly can. I suggest two 50% waterchanges per day if you go with treating them in the main tank. This will replenish the efficacy of the meds twice a day, instead of once. This equals a much more steady amount of meds that are actually doing anything.

It is fully possible to treat them, successfully, either way. Its just that your chances of eradicating the problem are MUCH greater using scenario 1. Again, its all up to you and your willingness to go the extra step in the re-cycling of their tank while they are under treatment in a separate bin.

The statement about the free living species of "parasites" meant that if you were to treat them in a separate tank and not sterilize and re-cycle their tank, they will just re-contract the parasites once they are added back to the main tank.

Sterilizing the main tank will be using potassium permanganate OR a 20:1 water/bleach solution. PP is available as Jungle Labs Clearwater OR Kordons Permoxyn OR pure pottasium permanganate crystals available at pondRX.com or a local chemical supply. I very much like the PP route. The ENTIRE tank and ALL of it accessories (tubing, syphons, decor, filters, EVERYTHING needs to be stripped, soaked in PP or bleachwater for several hours, rinsed out in VERY hot water and left to dry (in the sun, if possible). Once completely dried out, RE-rinse them in VERY hot water and set back up and filled. Then, add some fishfood, wait a day or two, then add the bio-spira. All in all, the tank stripping, sterilizing and re-cycling should last just about as long as the actual QC treatment.

I hope this helps explain it a bit better! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh yeah that clears things up a lot!!

If I did the sterile tank scenario would I need a filter on that tank or just a good airstone?

If I did the treatments in my current tank, and performed 2 50% water changes daily, could the nitrites build up to toxic levels in a 12 hour period? Could I do more than 2 water changes in a day if the levels are getting high? How many days of treatment do you recommend with this scenario? How about salt dips with this procedure?

If I do the in tank procedure and am still seeing symptoms after completing the treatment, could I then attempt the "out of tank" procedure? Or does that cause too much stress on the fish?

I guess I'm not too excited about stripping down their current tank, sterilizing it and re-cycling. I don't want you to think I'm lazy but I've got 2 little kids and hardly have time to clean my house!! It's getting late--I'll go to bed and maybe I'll dream about what I need to do to get this right!!

By the way, I did not notice any unusual symptoms from my ryukin today and less darting from the fantail. Nevertheless, I do feel the QC treatment would be a good idea.

Oh and one more thing: :thanks:bighug:thanks:bighug:thanks

Your explanation was EXCELLENT. You should write a book!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I would perform a 25% waterchange.

425008[/snapback]

I did a 50% water change since I've got that marked on the tank. I did not replace any salt per your recommendation and fed MediGold today for the last time (total 14 days). Total days salted to 0.3%=19. Total doses of Parasite Clear was 5.

Fish look good again today. I will be home tomorrow so I will be able to watch them more closely for symptoms. I ahven't seen any darting today (but I haven't watched them much either). Dorothy is still doing a bit more bottom sitting than normal. And I just saw a yawn. Do you think the bottom sitting is from the parasites? She does look a lot better than a week ago though.

Also my husband went ot get the Quick Cure but forgot his wallet! :rofl I can get some tomorrow or the next day. Don't really need it til I decide which method to use and get the appropriate equipment. But should get started--the sooner, the better I'm assuming?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Being that the fish are small, I would say that you could get away without using a filter, in the in-tank scenario.

Well, I mean, you could certainly try to treat them in the tank. NitrItes can rise pretty fast in a 24 hour period but it shouldn't be all that much of a rise. If you go this route, just be vigilant about testing and waterchanges. You might even get away with only a single 50% waterchange, daily. Double dose Prime or Amquel Plus at each waterchange just for good measure.

Yes, if it does not work for them and the flashing returns, either perform a second round of QC in-tank, or go ahead with the separate container scenario. ;)

Indeed, it would be best to go ahead and start treatment. Remember, 50% dose for a while to see if they handle it well. Keep a good amount of freshly drawn, dechlored water, just in case.

I can pretty much garauntee that you are not seeing a flukes infestation. There is a good amount of Prazi in PC and you just hit them with as good a regime as needed for them. :)

Keep us updated! :D

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just want to clarify something, in that fantail's situation is a but similiar to mine. When you say that she should sterilize the tank after she treats with Quick Cure, do you only mean this if she cures them in a seperate tank? Will she not have to sterilize the main tank if she cures them in it? because this will mean the parasites are all dead in the tank anyway? or either way she has to sterilize the tank? Sorry if my question is confusing :crp I don't want to have to sterilize my tanks either!! lol Thanks :)

Sorry for imposing in on the thread :rolleyes: and good luck with your fish! I'm learning a lot through your experience, my fish have parasites too :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Being that the fish are small, I would say that you could get away without using a filter, in the in-tank scenario.

Indeed, it would be best to go ahead and start treatment. Remember, 50% dose for a while to see if they handle it well. Keep a good amount of freshly drawn, dechlored water, just in case.

Paul

425961[/snapback]

In the first statement, did you mean I could get away without using a filter in the separate sterile tank scenario?

As I still don't have a bottle of Quick Cure in front of me so no directions to read--do I remember you saying that Quick Cure is done without any salt in the tank? So I would need ot get the salt out of my tank before starting if I were to do the in tank scenario?

Am I crazy to do the "in their current tank" scenario? I mean, to me the daily water changes is not a big deal at all. I will watch the water params like a hawk. If it works, great!! No stripping their tank and re-cycling.

If it doesn't work in their tank, then I could do the sterile tank. Does it make sense to approach it this way or am I just nuts? :blink:

FYI--I'm still working on the stand, canopy and 75 gallon tank too. So I jsut figured we could try the in tank scenario and if it doesn't work maybe by then I'll ahve a better idea on when the new tank/stand/canopy would be ready. Then if I need to strip down the old tank I could jsut replace it with the bigger tank, cycle that one while doing the sterile tank scenario and thus only have to cycle the 75 gallon. Whereas if I do the sterile tank scenario right now, I re-cycle their current tank and then cycle the 75 gallon in a few weeks.

Anyway, thanks again for your time!! My fish are looking pretty darn good (and soon to be better :D ) thanks to your knowledge and extreme patience with their newbie fish mom!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your right, I meant that you can do the treatment without a filter in the "separate container treatment".

Your not crazy for wanting to treat them in their tank. ;) Go for it.

yes, you would want to perform a couple very large waterchanges before you went with the QC.

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I got the goods this morning. If I do 2 50% water changes today would that be enough to begin treatment?

And once I begin treatment, you said to start with a 50% dose to see how they handle it. Should I do a half dose and watch them for like 30 minutes before going full strength or watch them for like a day before going full strength?

And once I've got it to full strength how many days/doses do you recommend? The bottle says 3 but I know it's always different for goldies!! Should I do more like 5?

Finally, a bit of an off topic question--there was a thread in the food forum that said tubifex worms may contain parasites. I've never given any to my fish but I have fed them freeze-dried bloodworms and freeze-dried brine shrimp. Are these safe to give them again now that they are off the MediGold? No chance that they carry parasites is there? If there is I'm burning it!!!!!

And thanks again, Paul. I'm actually kinda excited to get the QC started!! I hope my fishies are back to themselves soon! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Freeze dried foods are the safest of all the "live" foods to feed your goldies. They are so completely dessicated that no parasite could survive it. Fresh frozen, on the otherhand, could possibly contain parasites. But, it is very unlikely.

A 50% waterchange, followed by another 50% waterchange, a few hours apart, will reduce your salinity enough to begin the QC. Start with half dose, wait for an hour to see how they are doing, then add the rest of the dose. Stay with a full dose for the remainder of treatment. Go the full 5 days if they are handling it well.

Good luck!

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...