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Floaty Oranda #2

Guest oranda90272

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Guest oranda90272

Background (questions at the end):

I have been following the thread started by burge130, Floaty Oranda.

I have also researched the subject fairly well on the WWW and worked thru the problem with a couple of my fish.

The problem is my fish "Bulldog," he will eat more than is good for him when I feed him along with the other fish in my main tank. He then goes into SBD, and floats or at least has real problems going down in the tank. I routinely put him in my 5 gallon isolation tank and feed him green peas for several days. He improves. But if I put him back into the main tank with the other fish, the cycle starts over. Generally he is active, even if alone (some of my fish seem to go into a mood if alone in a tank).

I usually use Hikari Lionhead food. I was told a food that sinks is less likely to cause SBD than one that floats. That seems to be my experience. I have started soaking the pellets before putting them in the tank.

I have tried Medigoold for several days. The cycle still returns. I have not treated for parasites.

My main tank is over-crowded, so I change at least 25% once a week, sometimes at 4-5 days. In general my fish are doing very well. I use LA city water treated with AmQuel+ and NovaAqua+. The Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates are all good. The pH is 7.5/7.8. The GH & KH is ~8. The tank has Fluorite, pieces of sandstone, a lg. piece of real wood, & quite a few plants (Anubias[2 types], Wendtii Crypt, Ozelot Sword, and a couple of others).

What do you recommend for treating non-specific parasites? I have Prazi-Pro but am not sure if that is for parasites.

Any ideas about feeding Bulldog seperately when in the main tank? I would prefer not to keep him permantly in the isolation tank.

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Hi, I am no pro but I am having problems with an overeater, too!

Bulldog sounds like quite a fish! Could you keep him int he big tank and devise a divider that could be put up temporarily just at feeding times?

Also, I have expeirenced first hand (just a few days ago) the theory of SBD in realtion to high nitrates - mine skyrocketed (for a number of known reasons) and resulted in one fish having SBD problems- just the one - so it seems some are more prone to it than others. (It was corrected by water changes and peas).

Is there any reason that your nitrates may be higher than usual? In my case, a dose of strong a-bios had just been given which destabilzed the tank params by killing some of the good bio-bugs... I added some biospira and got things back to normal. Any other changes?

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I would ask that you post the params of the tank for us, as to specific information is vital to a pin pointing any problems. We also need all of the answers to the other questions.

I am happy to hear that you have learned alot of things thru the site. :)

Now onto Bulldog, I have a fish that "hogs" the food and I have found he did better in a seperate tank with only one roomate.

It seems that some fish feel the competition for food is vital and it will lead them to over eating. If this isn't possible to seperate him from the others permenatly then other steps need to be put into place.

Soaking their food is very important, however in my own experience I had more "floaty" problems than before when I fed Hikari. I don't believe that it is a bad food, but I felt it worsened his problems. So I feed progold and found that it is better........still there but better.

Keeping the nitrates down to 20 and under works wonders as well, as feeding a gel food.

After you post back we can see if we can fine tune this problem.

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Guest oranda90272

I know the tank is crowded but the water is low in Nitrates (from all the plants I think). If there is another parameter to test for waste build up, I would like to know what it is.

Tank parameters

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: between 0 & 5 ppm (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test)




Tap water pH=7

Tank size: 25 gal.

Running: 1 yr.+

Filter: Rena XP2

Water change: 25%, weekly

How many fish=5

Length: 1.25, 1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 2 inches

Conditioners: Amquel+, NovaAqua+, Seachem Gold buffer, occasionally salt

Medications: none

Last fish added about 5 weeks ago

Food: Hikari Brine Srimp, Hikari Liohead pellets, uncooked green peas

Nothing unusual except for occasional SBD

Unusual behavior: sleeps late

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Wow you are overstocked. I suppose that even though the nitrates are seemingly ok, over crowding does take a toll on the fish. Like I said eariler some fish panic about having competition for food and no matter what they take in to much air trying to eat it all.

I would (if you can) seperate the fish into another tank and leave him there for a couple weeks. This way he is isolated and you can treat him if anything pops up. Fast him for 2 days and then follow with 2 days of peas. Maybe continue on gel food for the remander and see how he goes. It is a long shot, but better than treating with medication until we know if there is a condition to treat for.

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Guest oranda90272

I should have said I have already put him in an isolation tank. He is doing ok, but if I let him eat too much he will go back into SBD. The reason I posted on the forum was to see if there were anything specific I might do to correct the SBD for the long term.

Re: Overcrowding

The fish seem happy. The only problem I have had with the fish together is in the spring when a male was chasing 2 females.

But I am still curious, do you know if there is any test besides Nitrate (e.g., Oxygen? or minerals?) to keep track of the health of the tank?

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Unfortunetly there is no sure fire way to keep SBD from happening. You can take precautions and try your best, but if I found a cure all I would be rich. :bounce

So fasting, feeding peas, soaking the food and making sure it sinks is the basic ways of keeping it controled. Also keeping the nitrates down to around 20.

SBD is a life long issue once the fish exhibts it.

I am not sure if I understand your last question about te other tests? There are tests for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, PH, chloramines/chlorine (i believe) and salinity.

To my knowledge there is no test for oxygen or minerals.

The above I named are all the tests one should have to maintain a healthy tank.

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