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Nitrates Not Coming Down


Guest daverush

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Guest daverush

:krazy:

Trying to lower nitrates in a 55 gallon tank.

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

PH 7.2

In the last week I have performed two 30% water changes and gravel vacced.

Added Amquil+ (How often do you use this?)(Only used it once)

Added an additional filter.

Only have 3 fish.

1 Goldfish 6"

1 Cat fish like bottom feeder 1-1/2". (This thing always looks upside down,

any body know what it might be called. It was given to me by a friend.)

1 Pleco 3"

Any suggestions?

Jen, I'd appriciate your thoughts?

Can you reach a member direct on this site?

Thanks

Dave

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Dave what are your nitrates at? This will give us a better indication on how much water to change.

Water changes are the only way to control nitrates. They should be at 10-20 is ideal. Anything above you can have problems.

How are the fish?

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Another point to remember is that amquel, prime and the like do indeed detoxify ammonia, nitrItes and nitrATes. But they WILL NOT remove them. You will still test positive. Although you are still testing positive and they are detoxified already, they are still avasilable for your bio-filter to remove them (except nitrAtes).

I suggest that you do a 50-75% waterchange and re-test immediately. If the nitrATes are still a little high, do another 50-75% waterchange the following day. Repeat until you have them at or below 40ppm. Once that is achieved, you will have a much easier time in keeping them that low.......

Good luck!

Paul

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Guest daverush

Last test was between 150 and 200.

So hard to read those strips.

The longer you take the more the color changes.

I need to find liquid drop test.

Thanks for your time.

Dave

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Dave with them that high you can do large water changes. 75% or so. And 2 times a day if need be. Changing water 1-2 times weekly is a guide. If you need to do control that water better then go ahead with more of them.

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Guest daverush

Thanks Laurie

I will get right on it.

Dave

On thing to tell you- the nitrites are around .5 (thats point five)

coming from my tap water.

Would such large water changes still be advisable?

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Ah, your one of the onlucky few that have nitrItes in their tapwater. :huh:

As for dealing with them, you just dose the tapwater according to the label and the nitrItes will then be detoxified and it will be safe to add to your tank. A day or two after you add the detoxed tap water to the tank, you should get a reading for 0ppm as your beneficial bacteria will have converted it to nitrAtes.

Good luck and post back with anymore questions you may have.....

Paul

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Guest daverush

Thanks Paul for your info.

If I am as you say, among the unlucky few, than I wonder why?

Maybe I should be concerned because my family occasionally drinks this tap water.

Should I have the water checked ?

I have public water, not well water.

Dave

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Nah, I don't think that nitrItes at that level are bad for you. In fact, I'll bet it is within the standards of your local water supply's guidelines. If you really want to know, you can request this information from the city or city water supplier and they have to give it to you. This is law in all 50 states. Beyond the US, I don't really know.

How are your fish?

Hope this helps. :)

Paul

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Guest daverush

Paul,

Last goldy is doing well. (Although lonely)

The other bootom feeders always seam ok.

Thanks fo asking.

Nitrates still up to 150/200 mark.

Ive done about 3 30% water changes so far.

Approx. everyother day.

Tank sparkles.

Started a 10 gallon tank using 50% of the water from my cycled tank.

I was thinking of putting one of the filter cartidges from my cycled tank into the 10 gallon tank in a attempt to establish a quarintine tank for when I get new fish.

I'd have to cut the filter cartridge down (10 gallon has a tiny wisper)(55 gallon using Emporer)

How long would you quarintine?

Thanks

Dave

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Well, your nitrAtes surely need to come down quite a bit more. Try doing a couple large waterchanges (50-75%). Your waterchanges, 3 at 30% each, only totals a 50% reduction in nitrates from your original reading. Combine that with the steady rise and you haven't really dented the nitrAte problem much at all. It takes 4 50% waterchanges to get the total nitrAtes down to 10% of their beginning number. Conversely, it takes only takes two 75% waterchanges to do the same.

Say nitrAtes were at 200. You do one waterchange at 30%. You have now reduced the total nitrAtes by 30%. Your nitrAtes now equal 140. After another 30% waterchange, 200ppm nitrAtes will be reduced by another 30%. Your nitrAtes now equal 98. One more waterchange at 30% would reap you 69ppm nitrAtes.

Now, this does not reflect the steady rise in nitrAtes that occurs in every inhabited aquarium. You have to add the wastes generated daily from uneaten food and poo that eventually become nitrAtes. This adds more nitrAtes to the number you originally started with.

My math above is a rough estimate. But I think you get the picture. NitrAtes are a neverending battle. It is best to reduce them quickly than to prolong the reduction. ;)

As for quarentine, I VERY HIGHLY suggest that a one month quarentine be implemented. Problems can sometimes take time to surface. Throughout the quarentine period, a 0.3% salt solution should be applied. If possible, praziquantel should also be applied. Salt and prazi can and should be used together during the quarentine as it will take care of 90% of the microscopic parasites that we commonly see on our goldfish and koi. If argulus, lernea or ergasilus are found to be on the fish (they are highly visible), Dimilin should be applied.

All three of the meds I suggested above are 100% safe to use with all fish. Except salt, some scaleless fish and the like don't take salt well. Research on your particular fish should be done.

I hope this helped a bit. Good luck with your soon-to-be new arrival! :D

Paul

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Guest daverush

Thanks Paul

You have been very helpful.

I have lots of questions.

I probably should take this post out of 911 but I'm not sure how.

I was very pleased ,when I hooked up my Fluval 404, to find out how quite it was.

My Emperor is noisy but I want the bio-wheel filtration.

Do you think I would get the same results if I bought another 404 and removed the Emperor?

Also I just recently added an air pump / stone and that is very noisy.

I read that you dont need an air pump.

Is this true?

Can you get enough oxi from just the return water ripple across the top of the water?

I used to run a power head with an air tube on it.

Became clogged easily and I did away with it. (Quite though)

What do you think?

Thanks again

Dave

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No worries. :D

I can move it over to the disease diagnosis section. ;)

Yes, running two fluval 404's on your tank will actually be an improvement on your filtration. There will be more available area to add bio-media than you get on the bio-wheels. Not to mention that you will have more of a GPH than with the two emporors. But, you shold take your time if you switch over to the fluvals alone. Let your new one accumulate a nice colony of beneficial bacteria before you decide to remove the other emporor. Also, cleaning out your bio-wheels IN the tank will help to transfer those colonies, that are already established, to your new canister filters. Don't worry, the muck that comes off quickly gets filtered out and into the canisters where they will reside.

Yes, with your (strictly your set-up) water returns set to flow across the surface of the tankwater, you can do without the bubble wall. Unless, of course, you are planning on keeping a lot of plants in the tank. Then, you should keep the aerator going. Oxygen can become a problem in well planted or lesser filtered tanks.

Is your remaining goldie still doing well? :huh:

If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to fire away. :D

Paul

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Guest daverush

Paul,

She's doing fine.

Did another 50% water change tonight and I am finally starting to see a change in color on the test strips. Might be around 80 now. Tomarrow I will do another.

I've been feeding her pellets the last couple of nights and it scares me.

I pre soak them because she just gulps them up.

But afterwards she sits on the bottom for awhile looking like she's trying to get something out . I dont know if she's swallowing rocks or just chewing up the pellets. Those darn little white stones got to go. If they do gey rocks caught in thier mouth can they get them out by themselves. If they swallow one is it fatal. :o

Thanks for your advise

Dave

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Good, I'm glad shes doing well. :)

Goldfish are naturally bottom pickers. They looooooove to pick up a mouthful of gravel or sand or muck and spit it back out. This is an instinctual act as their ancestors in the wild (prussian carb, giebel carp) pick at the bottom trying to find snails, worms and bug larvae (their natural diet). As for actually ingesting rocks, that is a very rare occurance. To date, I have never even read about a post mortem where the cause of death was a pebble in the digestive tract. As long as they are either too small to get stuck, or too large to fit in her mouth, all will be fine. Should you decide to get different gravel or take it out altogether, do it slowly so as to not cause a burp in your cycle. ;)

If she looks like she is sitting on the bottom chewing, that is most likely what she is doing. And if you are worried about pellets getting stuck in her mouth, you can crush them into smaller chunks and feed them to her. I have to do this very thing with my fry and small goldfish.

Post back soon. :)

Paul

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Guest daverush

Paul

Thats a relief.

I like the small white stones.Very clean looking.

Probably stay with them after hearing your reply.

Easy to vac also,they rise up in the tube until I raise up the vac then they slowley fall out leaving behind all the dirt.

Hey, I've been trying to get used to my new Python Vac System but I'm not liking it very much.

First --It can be a pain to the filter off my sink. (Dont want to use tools because of baked white finish.)

Second -- You waste a ton of water while vacuuming.

Third--When Refilling it takes a while to adjust the water temp.(To hot,to cold...)

Forth--When you finally get it right you have to quickly close the bottom valve and run over to the tank and open up the valve. If you dont do this quick then such pressure builds up that leaks can start spraying from the faucet making a big mess. And sometimes when you open the valve up in the tank it can release quite a surge.

Fifth--If you do add the water directly into the tank, then you must treat for the whole 55 tank (55 gallonns in my case) Lot of chemicals.

I prefer a small hose out the door and a manual syphon start.(Easy to do)

On refill , I do a 5 gallon bucket at a time (easy to adjust temp and treat)

Also dont have to drain out and store 25 feet of hose either.

Am I missing something here or do you find the same hassles?

Told you I have alot of questions.

Appreciate your thoughts

Dave

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Precisely why I refuse to own a python. ;)

You hit the nail on the head when you mentioned how wasteful it is with water. Water, being our most precious resource on this blue marble, shouldn't be used frivolously.

I also do not like the idea of dechlorinating the way you are suppose to with a python. too much and I don't like the idea of having all that sodium thiosulfate, or chlorine, in the tankwater, even if its only for a few minutes.

Paul

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Guest daverush

Paul,

Do you let your water sit for 24 hrs?

If so, do you have alot of buckets?

I hope i'm not sounding like that little annoying kid that you meet when

you first move into yhe. nieghborhood. "Hello Mr Wilson".

Always a pleasure to here from you

Dave

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No worries, I enjoy Q and A sessions. :)

I use a dechlorinator called Prime. It also detoxifies ammonia, nitrItes and available nitrAtes. So, all I do is draw 2, 5 gallon water jugs, and dechlorinate it just before I add it to the aquarium.

Since I have multiple tanks, I keep two jugs strictly for new water and two 5 gallon buckets strictly for old water. This way, I do not get ANY cross contaminatiuon between tanks. This is mainly a preventative tactic against parasites and bacteria. I also use a different gravel vac for each tank.

Paul :D

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Guest daverush

Paul,

I noticed that in one of your pictures you have a blue background.

Looks nice.

Which brings to mind something I noticed about my background; where water must have ran down the glass in spots, the background is very colorful and bright. Is there something to this and is there a trick to sticking on the background film so the whole back will look like this?

Thanks

Dave

PS - Nirates heading towards 40 :rolleyes:

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Guest daverush

Hey Paul,

Do you have any salt water tanks?

It has been a dream of mine to have one.

I feel I've got alot to learn though.

I've learned much from this site.

Great to talk to people with experience versus reading books.

Less confusing too.

Thank again

Dave

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Guest daverush

By the way, I like your Icon (Obssessed).

Guys I work with call me that.

Maybe its with most fish poeple. :rofl

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To get your background looking REALLY great, check this link out: Plastic background tip

No, I don't have any saltwater tanks, YET! Very soon though. Maybe we can delve into it together and learn from each other?

Yep, I am hopelessly obssessed. I like a good challenge love animals. So, its only natural That I picked one of the harder fish to keep. I too have been labeled by my friends as obssessed. They also call me "the brain" because I simply have to know or figure out any unknowns that appeal to me..... :rolleyes:

Paul

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