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Help: Fish Bloodstreaked And Very Ill

Guest ElliotOranda

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Guest ElliotOranda

I moved one week ago today(Saturday, April 30th), I only moved 40 blocks and I think it might be the death of my fishy little friends, Please Help.

I was Very fast during the move, I move the 15gallon aquarium first, then the 29gallon. I moved the oranda in the 15gallon in will the other fish when I moved the 29gallon. I went to my new house, set up the 15gal and added new small natural river rocks to it. I change the filters, added a little extra carbon to the baskets in the filters and went back to get the 29gallon aquarium. I move the fish into several 5 gallon buckets with portable aeration. I emptied the 29gallon tank and moved the fish and the tank to the new house and set it up. After a couple of hours I put the fish back into the aquariums.

To each tank during the reset up I added, Kordon Nova Aqua water conditioner, new filters, extra carbon is each filter basket and Dr.wellfishes aquarium salt. As I have already stated, I waited a couple of hours before returning the fish to the aquariums so that I could test the water and amount of salt in each tank before adding the fish.

The stats on both tanks were perfect when they went in, even the temperature in each.

Since the move, particularly in the last 4 days, the fish are showing major signs of stress and have develope "Ich" or "Protozoan Velvet". I first noticed this on Wednesday,( May 4th). I tested the water in each tank, The stats were okay except for the NH3 (Ammonia), It was starting to climb and had gone from .0 on May 1st to .75 on May 4th. I added Ammo- lock to each tank, 15ml for the 15gal and 29ml for the 29gal. The next morning, the fish seemed more spotted with "Ick/Velvet" and scratching and darting. One of the large Orandas, Moby, had an abrasion on his head from scratching. And Ariel the Oranda in the 15gal had spots and a huge whitish yellow pimple on her head. They are all showing signs of blood in the fins. In a panic, I went to the pet store and bought Mardel's Maricide and Mardel's Maracyn-two. I followed the directions and added 6tables of Maracyn-two to help prevent any secondary infections and added 29ml of maricide to the 29gallon tank. I did the same to the 15 gallon tank in the amount of 15ml of maricide and 3 tables of maracyn-two.

I also gave a salt bath in the amount of 1gallon of water to 1/2 cup aquarium salt to the two fish that were the most ill. I could only leave them in the bath for about 20 seconds before I freaked out and had to put them back in the aquariums. In addition I read on this site about killing Ick and Velvet with aquarium salt. I added salt to each aquarium in 3 doses about 10 hours apart. I also raised the water temperature in each to almost 80 degrees .

Friday, (May 6th) I skiped the maricide as the directions say to only add it on the 1st, 3rd, and 5th day, but continued with the Maracyn-two but I cut the amount in half as the directions stated. Which worked out to be 1.5 tables for the 15gal and 3 tables for the 29gal.

I just tested the water, and it is all off probably because of the move. I don't know what to do to lower the dangerous levels listed below but keep the salt level, and more importantly the medication level correct. Should I do a partial water change in each tank and add the medicine to the new water? I am afraid that it may cause an over dose on the Maracide, because it is not suppose to be re added until tomarrow and it could cause problems if I add the Maracyn-two to the water change because it is absorbed through the fishes skin, there is no way to tell how much of the medication the fish as already absorbed. Please help, my fish are turning more and more red by the minute. Also the stats below are very strange for the 29gallon tank, I checked them twice, for some reason my ph has dropped significatly, my nitrItes are way high and so is the ammonia, the CO2 is way off as well.

Stats for the 15gal tank:

Ammonia Level:.75ppm (mg/l) Salicylate based test Nitrite Level: 5.0ppm (mg/l)

Nitrate level: 30ppm(mg/l) Ph Level: 7.4

Ph Level out of the Tap: 7.6

Tank size(How many Gals) and How long has it been running? Answered above- Moved after having tank set up for 1year.

What kind of Filtration: 1 Penguin biowheel 330

How often do you change the water and how much?Moved April 30, 100% water change.

What kind of Water additives or conditioners? Aquanova Water conditioner and protector

Any Medications add to the tank?Maricide and Maracyn-two

How many fish in the tank and there size? 1- 5inch Oranda, 2 Albino Corydoras, & 1 2 in Weather Loach

Add any new fish to the tank?No

What do you feed your fish? ProGold, Yesterday I ordered Medicated Goldfish food from Goldfish Connection, and Permoxyn.

Any unusual findings on the fish? Such as"grains of salt", bloody streaks, frayed fins, fungus? Ich and Velvet, yellowish white pimple on the head, bloody streaks on all fish.

Any unusual behavior? Like staying at the bottom, not eating, ect..? They are eating well, like little piggys but the seem to shuffle between scratching and darting and resting at the bottom.

If you can what is the chloramines Level from the Tap? I am not sure how to test that.

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Guest ElliotOranda

Sorry, I my rush to get answers I forgot to list the following information in my last post. In the 15gal tank. The new salt level is .24%

The stats for the 29gal tank are:

Salt: .12%

Temp: 80degrees

Ammonia: 2.0ppm



GH 8


PH: 6!!???

Airation is 29gal. 1-tetratech ap150 with airstones, and 1 tetratech ap 30 with airstones.

I hope I didn't forget anything. Thank you reading this and helping!!

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  • Regular Member

Alot of your problems are coming from the water quality in addition to the stress of the move. Since you had to set the tank up and had to start the cycling over, your params are going to be really high. To lower the nitites, change parts of the water and you can salt the aquarium. Here's a link to my posts when I had high nitrite problems.


I've never had this type of problem before, hopefully someone with more experiance will help you. Good luck!

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  • Regular Member

This page of Koko's talks about the cycling in depth.


It's good you already have salt in the water; salt enters the fish through the gills as do the nitrites, so the salt will compete with the nitrites which prevent the fish's red blood cells from getting oxygen. If you do decide to do partial water changes, I wouldn't add more medication to the water, since, as you stated, there is no way to tell how much of the meds the fish have absorbed. Someone should be along to this post soon to add more advice.

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  • Regular Member

My first inclination is that the fish are suffering from a poor water quality from high nitrites and ammonia. Not to mention the PH.

To start I would concentrate on the ammonia and nitrites. Doing 50% water changes every few hours until you get the nitrites to a "tolerable" level.....under .5.

This should help with them. What was the ph at the old house., if it was a ph change then this too could be causing a problem.

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