Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Guest smileygus

White Poop? Meds?

Recommended Posts

Guest smileygus

Can I send you pictures of my fish thru e-mail? I dont have a website.... I took the picture.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

I got the crushed coral today. I put it in and did a small water change. I rinsed the coral but the water is a bit cloudy.

The fish place was out of that medicated food. The guy there told me I could use Maracyn. He said it would help with internal parasites and the damage from frosty getting stuck in the filter. I bought it but I am not going to add it unless you say it is ok! :)

Last night I rinsed the sponge and carbon bag. They were black and all this purple stuff came out of them. It was from the meds that I put in before.... maybe that messed the water up?

Here are some picture. You can see what I mean that one side his belly raises up now the goes flat.... sorry they are so blurry. My good camera is broken.

frost9.jpg

frost11.jpg

frost13.jpg

frost14.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure who it is that your talking to at the store but maracyn can not and will not do anything for internal parasites (or any parasites for that matter). Do not trust this persons advice any longer!

However, the maracyn is great for bacterial infections. Keep it handy just in case you wind up needing it.

I see from your pics that your goldie is active and swimming, that is perhaps the best news of all. :D This means that he is feeling no worse for the wear and his rebound from popping his bubble should be swift and uneventful (only if you keep the water nice and happy).

The purple stuff is indeed from the meds you used before. It's okay though.

Now that you have added the crushed coral, your kh should slowly start to rise. Test for kh every couple of days to see. Post the results.

From here on out, please test your water every morning and night. If your nitrItes are still higher than 1ppm, perform a waterchange to reduce them to below 1ppm and strive to keep them there. Eventually, they will disappear. This is when your tank and filter have found a good balance with the poo and ammonia that your goldie releases. At this point, your waterchanges will be reduced to once a week (yay!)

If you can, please post your results from each and every test that you take so that we can see if things are working out properly. Without that info, I am lost and cannot help much. ;)

Please, answer these questions (VERY IMPORTANT) :

So, how has your nitrItes and pH been? Post your results!

Are you rinsing the sponge and carbon out in the sink? If so, DON'T! Only use old tankwater. You will dessimate your bio-filter if you use tapwater that hasn't been dechlorinated.

Post your results..............

Hopefully, the worst is behind you and your goldie! :)

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

so it is ok that his belly is bigger on one side?

I rinse everything out in his tank water.

I'm going to order that food.

I just did a water test.

nitrate - 20

nitrite - 3.0

hardness - hard

kh - 120

ph - 7.2

Thank you so much!!!!! :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like your kh issues are no longer! :D

Internal lumps and bumps are pretty commonplace when your dealing with goldfish. Especially if they were bought at a regular pet shop. These goldfish are usually the "second rate" ones out of the batch. The very best ones are offered as "high quality" for larger amounts of money. Keep a close eye on the lump and post back if it seems to be getting bigger (or he starts acting sick).

Now that your kH is at optimal levels, your pH should stay stable enough for you to perform as large a waterchange as needed to get your nitrItes under 1ppm.

When you test your tankwater and find that your nitrItes are at readable levels (anything over 0) you have to perform as large a waterchange as it takes to reduce that number to below 1ppm. This is very important because high nitrItes in a tank with a bubble eye whose bubble has popped can and will cause infections to set in. Please, when you test the water and find nitrites that high, do waterchanges immediately.

So, to reduce the nitrItes to 1ppm from 3 ppm, you'll need to do a 75% waterchange. After the waterchange, test again to be sure.

Notes on crushed coral:

The coral you've added will dissapate over time. It will slowly release small amounts of carbonates into the aquarium (this is what keeps your ph steady). If you notice that the coral has been reduced to a very little bit in the bag, get some more and add it.

Once you get the medicated food, only feed this to your goldie for no less than 2 weeks. Up to a month is ok. Treats are ok too. After that, switch back to his regular staple diet and treats.

Good luck with him and keep us posted, okay? :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

I just did the water change like you said. You told me to add 2 1/2 tsp. of salt per 1 gallon???? Should it be per one gallon or for every 5 gallons?

Oh and his eye is not red anymore!!! =0)

Here is a good picture of Frosty. He is the black and orange one. Thought you might want to see who you are helping. The other is the one who just died, Kirby.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, You want to add 2 1/2 level tespoons per gallon. This will raise your salinity to a 0.3% solution wich will double as a buffer for the high nitrItes and also be a tonic for the popped bubble. Since you have been adding salt to the tank already, you can probably start adding this level of salt to each waterchange you do from here on out till the nitrItes dissapate to 0. But keep running the salt til you feel the bubble has started to re-inflate.

Hows the nitrItes today?

And more importantly, how is your goldie acting?

Post back soon! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

Water his morning:

Nitrate - 20

Nitrite - .5

Hardness - 75

kh - 80

ph - 7.2

Its getting better!!!!

He spends most of his time in the very center of the tank. Not on the bottom but right in the middle just floating around. He swims the most if I turn his light on or I go over to see him. He is still looking a bit banged up....

When should I do my next water change and how much? I dont want to kill all the good stuff in my tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since you are using the coral to raise your kH, your water changes should only be performed out of necessity. This is because it takes a little time for your kH to rise to optimal levels after removing some of the water that has already been corrected. As you can see, your kH has dropped a bit since you performed the waterchanges to reduce the nitrItes. this should rise to a good number again in the next few days.

If the nitrItes rise above 1-2ppm, thats when a waterchange is needed. Along those same lines, a waterchange should be performed if your nitrAtes get above 40-50ppm. 20ppm nitrAtes or less is a nice safe level for goldfish.

I think your rather close to achieving a happy healthy tank and filter for your little one! :D

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

Hello!

I told you that Frosty got stauck in the filter and his bubble was damaged. Now it is changing colors. It was bright orange but the part closest to his face started to turn black. Now the color is spreading across his face. Is this an infection?

Water today:

nitrate - 20

nitrite - .5

kh - 40

ph - 6.8

The temp. is 80F

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds like ammonia burns. But the good news about the blackening, this signifies healing. I can only assume that either your ammonia rose at some point.

Have you been testing for ammonia?

Hows he doing? Still eating and active?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

No I have not tested for ammonia. I will go buy a test kit today. Does it hurt him. =(

He is still eating but he isnt swimming very much. Not like he used to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely get the ammonia test kit. Especially because of the black showing up. Up until now, I hadn't realized that you weren't testing for it. This should be tested along with all the other parameters daily, until your tank becomes fully cycled. Then you can go back to once a week. Although, I would test for ph a few times throughout the week because of the swings in the past.

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

My ammonia is at .25

So if it isnt the ammonia then what is the black stuff?

I am thinking that the bag of white rocks are to keep the ammonia from going up right? Isnt it bad if I take them out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

I just got the medi-gold. Will this help with a bubble infection?

Thanks for putting up with all of my questions.... :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the medi-gold should be fed to your goldie for no less than 2 weeks. This is excellent that you got that stuff as it works very well.

-------------------------------------

ANY ammonia that you can see on the test kit results is bad. I repeat, ANY.

DO NOT add those ammonia chips (white rocks) to your filter. They will do more harm than good. TRUST ME.

If you were to add the ammonia chips, they will soak up any ammonia that forms in the water. In doing this, you will be cutting out the ONLY food source of your beneficial bacteria and it will die off. This will cause many more problems for your goldie. Again, TRUST ME.

I haven't even mentioned the fact that because you are using salt in your tanks water, that any ammonia chips in the filter will release any ammonia they soak up? Salt is well known for being used to "re-charge" ammonia chips when they become fulled with ammonia.

Did you ever read the page on cycling that i provided you? cycling tanks

In that page, I think you will find that you have to have ammonia in your water to keep your bio-filter alive. Once your tank has fully cycled, you won't be able to detect ammonia with your test kits because they will be in such low concentrations. But, these low numbers will be just enough to keep your beneficial bacteria alive and processing any ammonia that your goldie puts out.

Now, do you understand why I keep telling you to forget about the ammonia chips? They are only to be used in special circumstances. Once you become more familiar with aquatics and cycling tanks, you will know when those special circumstances permit ammonia chips being used.

-------------------------------------------

Okay, now that I got that out of the way:

You will now have to perform waterchanges whenever you see the ammonia rise to 1ppm or higher. You will also have to perform waterchanges whenever you see the nitrItes rise above 1-2ppm. You will have to keep doing this until your test kits no longer register ammonia or nitrItes. This means absolutely 0ppm for both tests for more than 2 days. At this point, your tank and filter will be cycled and you can go back to doing waterchanges when your nitrAtes get above 40-50ppm. The nitrAtes rise very slowley and you can pretty much take care of them with 50% waterchanges once a week.

Is this a bit clearer now? :huh:

Lemme know and i'll explain where you don't understand. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

oooohhhh so much information. Wow! After this i'm gonna get a lot smarter. :)

Yeah it makes sense. How many times a day can I do a water change. Thank you so much Paul.

Christa

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can change as much as it takes to lower the numbers to what I have previously suggested. Remember, a 50% waterchange will decrease the numbers on your kits by 50%.

Let us know how it's going............. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

Frosty likes his medicated food! It is too big and too hard for him to eat cuz he is so small. I have to soak it first.

I saw him poop today and it was brown! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am glad to hear Paul has things under control with your gf. I have been reading along, but not adding anything as I am learning a few things myself on the Ph issue.

Hope things continue to improve!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

Thank you Laurie. Glad all this could be some help to you too!

I will be a goldfish expert after Paul is finished helping me. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hehehe. :D

As for this pH thing being under control, I feel that remains to be seen. How is the pH and kH doing now that you've stopped with the waterchanges? :huh:

I'm glad your goldie seems to be feeling much better! Hows the black looking? fading any yet?

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

The nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are still too high. I am going to do another water change tonight. The black is still the same....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG - this one thread has just taught me an incredible amount about tank water. Frosty is such a cute little fella and I hope he heals soon - lord knows you can't go wrong now :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest smileygus

Thank you! Toothless is keppin frosty alive! haha

This is such an amazing board. I am so happy I found it. I had no idea about all this stuff either. I just cycled the tank and thought it would be ok......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...