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Guest smileygus

White Poop? Meds?

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Guest smileygus

My other goldfish just died. He had thin striny poop. He was flosting at the top then he sank to the bottom. He couldnt swim and then he died.

My other fish acts perfectly healthy. I didn't feed him for the lat 2 days. He pooped tonight and it was thick white poop. I read that thin white poop is internal parasites. What about thick poop is it the same?

I would like to go get him some meds right away because I do not want to lose my other fish. Should I give him antibiotics and food with antibiotics?

Could you please tell me a good kind to buy? Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!

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So how come you're fasting him?

Could you fill out the information at the top of this forum?

That will help us to help you. :)

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Guest smileygus

tank - 20H

Last water change - Jan 6th (used a gravel cleaner)

Bottom - I use colored gravel. didnt know it was bad.

food - wardley total goldfish gourmet flake blend (I gave it to them dry but started to soak it after Kirby was floating)

add in water - Doc Wellfish's Aquarium Salt, Neutral Regulator (adjusts PH to 7.0), aqua plus.

Meds - added a general cure T.C. something.... It turned water red. looked like jaws visited.

Filter - aquaclear 200 (havent chanced anything. )

Water:

nitrate - 20

nitrite - .5

hardness - 150 hard (cant seem to fix that)

alkalinity - 180 ideal

PH - 7.2

I was going to fast him and give him peas. That way I can clean him out and check his poop because y other fish just died.

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Is there a good reason to use the ph regulator? :huh:

Unless your absolutely sure of what your doing with the ph and kh, making changes to the ph at any time could be disastrous.

Your hardness and alkalinity seem to be at optimal levels. What is the ph from your tapwater?

The meds that you added is called tetracycline and it has the ability to hamper your bio-filter to the point that nitrItes and ammonia will be evident. Your nitItes are obviously not at optimal levels and are probably a result of the meds. Unless, of course, your filtration is inadequate.

What is the brand and size of the filter/s your using?

Truthfully, you might just be dealing with an issue of poor water quality. The info on your filters will help to decide that.

Post back soon. :unsure:

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To be honest with you, I don't know.

Generally, thin, stringy, white poop would mean that your goldie has a bit of an internal bacterial infection. Your goldie having thick white poop could have something to do with the fact that you have nitrItes in your tankwater. Ammonia and nitrItes should always be at 0ppm in a properly functioning tank. Wich leads me to the question i asked previously:

Why your using a ph regulator product on your tank? What is your pH/kH from tap? This could have great bearing on why your other fish died and why your seeing strange colored poop coming from your remaining one.

You see, we ask lot of questions because we need as much info on your tank and goldfish as possible. Otherwise a misdiagnosis (and worse) can easily happen.

We are still dealing with a few quirks on a couple of pages here from when the site went down a few weeks ago. Pages aren't loading properly for me or others. It's making it hard to see the posts that we have already began to help. That is why I have overlooked your post the past few days. I am sorry. But, you have not helped yourself at all by posting a couple hundred question marks in a row so that the page is impossible to read correctly. This, I fear is why you haven't recieved any answers from others. Please, in the future, try to practice a little patience. ;)

Post back soon.

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Guest smileygus

sorry but there is no room for patience when my animals are sick....

Time is limited.....

I put the Ph neutralizer in cuz my water is really hard and my Ph was sky high before I even had any fish.

I dont know how to lower my nitrites.... a girl at the pet store told me to add cycle but I dont trust her....

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Well I can understand your worry for your fish, just remember that we don't get paid for any of this, it's a labor of love as much as your caring for your fish. :)

Bear with me on the pH thing. This is tricky stuff sometimes. Very often, messing with it is the underlying cause of many symptoms and sicknesses. I just want to clarify a few things first:

So, your pH from the tap was higher than 8? Goldies thrive in ph as high as 8.2 .

As for hardness, goldies can thrive in levels exeeding even 250-300+.

Are you absolutely positive that your pH stays rock steady while your using the additive?

My reasons for pushing the ph thing is because a fluctuating ph could possibly cause your bio-filter to stumble and thus, nitrItes rising.

Another scenario could be that you did too thorough of a cleaning to the filter and/or tank in the recent past. It is best to only rinse the sponge out in tankwater and to only replace them if they begin to fall apart or totally lose shape. Changing it out completely with a new one will kill off most of your beneficial bacteria and it will take up to a week or more for it to colonize the new sponge.

If your goldie is still swimming around and actively eating with fins open, this is very good and it means that nothing is making him feel bad right now.

How is he doing?

See any more white poop?

Keep us posted on what your seeing with your goldie since it's the white poop that is in question.

Paul

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Guest smileygus

ok... if you look at the top that was my water this week.

I changed the ammonia gravel in my filter last night. I just teasted the water and this is what it is now.

Nitrate - 20

Nitrite - 3.0

Hardness - 150

Alk - Moderate 80

PH - 7.8

Ahhhhhh everything is crazy!!!!!!!

I did a few water changes and added the PH neutralizer cuz I was told too. I didnt know it was bad.

Yeeeee did I kill Kirby?

I feel so bad. How can I get my water back to normal?

I need to still change the carbon right?

I never changed the sponge...

Please help I dont kow how to fix my water....

Thank you! :krazy:

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First things first, What is the ph level of your tapwater? And the kh?

I need an answer for this before I can tell you precisely what to do.

Do not use ammonia chips anymore, ever. They are useless in an established aquarium. Carbon is ok to use but not necessary (I don't use it).

If you are still adding aquarium salt as per the instructions on the box, continue to do so. This will help sheild your little guy from the harmful effects of the nitrItes until you can reduce them.

Please post back soon, I'll be turning in shortly but I'll check up on you bright and early. ;)

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Guest smileygus

NItrie - 0

Kh - 6.8 - 7.2 The color is in the middle.

I added the salt aftre the last water change. Should I add more?

Thank you soooo much!!!!!!!!!!

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Hmmm, so, what is the alkalinity of your tapwater (thats kH)

Basically, the kh (alkalinity) is what keeps your ph steady. If the kH of your tapwater is optimal (should be with hard water), your pH is absolutely perfect at 6.8 - 7.2.

However, you might want to test your tapwater for pH like this:

Draw some tapwater, test it and record the results. Then draw some tapwater into a clean jug with a tight fitting lid, shake the living heck out of it for several minutes, then re-test and record the results.

Did the pH change at all between the two tests? If so, you most likely have co2 in your tapwater that acts as a buffer for ph while the water is still in the pipes. once the water is out of the puipes and the co2 dissapates, the pH can change rapidly. Although, if your tapwater has a good alkalinity, there would be no reason for the co2.

As far as salt goes, only add salt to the water your adding back to the tank. Salt cannot be filtered out nor wil it evaporate. That means when you add salt to the tank, you can only remove it by performing waterchanges without salt. Knowing this, you need to be careful about adding the salt so that you don't overdose it.

Post back soon. :unsure:

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Guest smileygus

This is the result after shaking my water:

kh - 40

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Alright, I need to clarify again. Bear with me:

Your pH and kH are two totally different test result. However, they are related.

What I need from you is the test results for pH from the tapwater before and after shaking the heck out of it.

Please pay special attention when you are reading and typing the test results. Make well and sure that you aren't confusing the two.

Try the tapwater tests again and post back with the results.

It is beginning to sound like you'll just need to add crushed oyster shells to your aquaclear in a aquarium vacuum bag (very cheap and easy to find) to raise your kh so that your ph remians stable.

I know all this is a bit confusing at first. If you just read a bit about it until you grasp the idea, it gets rather easy.

Post back with the test results and we'll see about putting together a routine for you to keep your tanks water nice and happy. :)

By the way, How is your goldie today? :huh:

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Guest smileygus

the ph is the same........

This morning when I woke up my bubble eye was suck in the intake tube. His bubble is small and funny looking. His eye is bright red on the top and bottom. Looks like the blood got sucked to the surface of his eye. A girl told me to give him food with meds. I guess she is talking about antibiotics. I am not really sure.

I am going to the pet store to get a net to cover the intake tube and figure out this food thing.

Is there anything anout these crushed oysters I need to know? Where should I put them?

Wow you are super smart when it comes to goldfish!

I remember when I was little I had a goldfish I am bowl that I won at the fair. She lived for 4 years in regular tap water. She died because she jumpped out of her bowl.

Then I got a tank. My dad and I would just put the goldfish in and only get the chlorine out of the water. When we did water changes we would just fill it up with water from the hose. We gave them dry flakes... Funny how those fish lived for 5 years.

Now I am older and trying hard to give my goldfish the perfect home and i'm not doing so well...... they are funny little fish.

Thank you for taking time out to help me and Frosty!

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Guest smileygus

I forgot to tell you that I have not seen him poop again.

Now he is just staying in one spot in the middle of the tank. I think the filter thing scared him....

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Please,

When you are giving answers, they need to be a clear as you can make them.

post the results like this:

-----------------------------

Tapwater pH before shaking-?

Tapwater pH after shaking-?

The longer you shake the water before the second test, the better. Try shaking vigorously for at least 3-5 minutes.

-----------------------------

Oyster shells just need to be well rinsed (boiling for ten minutes helps to disinfect them). Crush them up into small chunks the size of peas and place them into the vacuum bag and situate them on top of the sponge in your aquaclear. Once a week, rinse the bag off in some tankwater so that water passes freely through. What these oyster shells will do is raise your kh so that you ph stays stable for you. Crushed coral also works very well and cn be found at most lfs's. Whatever you decide to use, make well and sure that it is well rinsed before adding it to your filter. Otherwise dust will cloud your tankwater for quite some time.

Yes, medicated food will greatly benefit your bubble eye right now. The only source I know of good med-food is here: Goldfish Connection

You can even have it shipped priority or next day, I think.

As for right now and the state of your aquarium water goes, youll need to do very small water changes every couple of hours (10-20%) throughout the day. Remember to add salt back to the water. But only for the water that your adding back to the tank. Instead of using the recommendation of the packaging, use 2 1/2 level teaspoons per gallon.

The salting and small waterchanges should help reduce the nitrItes that are building up. Youll need to di this for as long as it takes to get your filter functioning properly. I fear that it's the ammo-chips that caused your bio-filter to stumble. You see, If the bio-filter doesnt have a steady supply of ammonia, it can never be fully operational. The ammo-chips soak up all the ammonia before the bio-filter can use it up and transform it to nitrAtes. Maybe you should read these two pages very thoroughly:

Cycling tanks

pH and kH

What you want to accomplish is a happy medium where ammonia is quickly transformed into nitrAtes by the brown gunk that forms on the walls of your filter and on the sponge. Once a week, you need to rinse the sponge in some tankwater so that wate can flow freely through. This is necessary.

Can you see what I'm trying to explain here?

Hit me with any questions you may have! :)

Paul

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Guest smileygus

He is looking beat up now cuz of the filter. his belly looks funny....

Thw water from the tap is 6.8 - 7.2

Ater shaking it is the same..... 6.8 - 7.2

The color is in between the two and my eyes are not good enough to match it exactly to one or the other.

Can I buy an empty vaccum bag at the pet store? I have a sponge, bag of black carbon rocks, and a bag of white rocks.....

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So far, it seems that your ph is pretty good coming from the tap. It's just the kH that needs correcting. This can be done with the oyster shells and/or coral. but, I have one more test for you to try:

Draw some tapwater and let it sit out overnight (stir it occasionally, not necessary, though) and test it in the morning. Post the results here and we will know for sure if your ph is too unsteady in the short term.

Yes, you should easily find the vacuum bags at most stores that sell fish and fish supplies. A package of 3 can be bought for less than 5 bucks.

Remove the bag of white rocks (ammo-chips) from your filter and never add them again. You can keep the black rocks (carbon) if you like (not necessary. The carbon will at least help with space for the beneficial bacteria to grow on for now.

You'll need the crushed oyster shells or coral AS SOON AS POSSIBLE to get your kH up though. otherwise, your ph can fluctuate causing more problems.

How does his belly look funny, can you elaborate a bit?

From reading the cycling page, I think you'll find that you'll need to be testing the water once in the morning and once at night. This will need to be done until your tests read 0 for ammonia and nitrIte for a couple days in a row. If any of the params are not right, waterchanges is the way to reduce the the nitrItes.

Whatever you do, do not do a large waterchange if the ph frm the tap differs from the ph in your tank by a margin of .8 or so. This will cause your ph to swing too fast. This is why i suggested that you only change 10-20% every couple of houurs for the first day. Once the ph from the tank matches the ph from the tap, as large a waterchange as needed can be done at one time. ;)

Let us know how it's going, okay? :huh:

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his belly on one side is normal..... rounded.

The ther side sticks out the same way but it is flat. It is hard to describe.

I thought I had to have thos ammo - chips.......

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Have you read the cycling page i linked to you? :huh:

In it, you'll read about ammonia and nitrItes. The ammo-chips in your filter are soaking up all the ammonia before your bio-filter can use it to stay alive. this will starve your bio-filter and it will die off to the point were your water becomes toxic. Removing the ammo-chips will allow your bio-filter to feed on the ammonia as it would normally and allow it to remain healthy and keeping your water clean.

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Guest smileygus

I did a water change and bought a sponge to cover the filter.

Should I keep the ammo-chips and add them later?

After dinner I am going to try to take a picture of frost's belly. My digital camera broke so I am going to try to use the old one....

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No, forget about the ammo-chips, they are useless to you. I repeat, they are completely useless. take them out of your filter and throw them away. Do not add any more, ever. They will only cause problems.

Trust me.

You will need to clean the sponge for the intake at least once a week to keep your filter flowing nice and freely.

Please answer these:

Have you stopped using the ph neutralizer?

Did you get the oyster shells or coral? The vacuum bags?

What are your test results from the tank this evening?

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Guest smileygus

I have not used any more neutralizer since you told me to stop. I changed the water at 4:00 and took the ammo - chips out.

I saw Frosty poop twice today.It was a super tiny brown spot attacjed to something I couldnt see. I came out to almost the end of his tail. I couldnt see the rest. Then it was clear with a brown tip. I am feeding him blood worms right now.

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