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Swim bladder medication.


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  • Helper

Unfortunately swimbladder issues are usually either blockages due to constipation or a mechanically damaged or malformed swimbladder. Constipation you can observe with a fish who has thick poops or bubbles in their poop and whose swim bladder buoyancy issues improve after two or three days of fasting the fish.

If that isn’t the case, there is no medication to treat it. A floater or lister will always do that. Many can live long and happy lives that way but some have problems that lead to secondary infections snd wounds from either being exposed to the air on one side or pinned to the bottom running substrate. Those can be treated too, if it’s an issue.

Fish with swimbladder issues often benefit from shallow water - like six inches of depth, like a kiddie pool or under bed tote. Give that a try as well if you have a persistent floater and see if it doesn’t improve their balance in the water.

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  • Regular Member

Thank you so much . You have given me hope that he will survive. He can swim upright but lays at top of water upside down in his corner of the tank. His underneath is being exposed to the air and it looks a bit sore and swollen . Can I put anything on his skin to protect . What can I do if he is sore . He is keen on peas ...Should I stop feeding him for 3 days to start with ?

 

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  • Helper

I’m going to need a lot more information and pictures to help more, so I know we aren’t missing a cause.  Please attach as many clear pictures as you can that show him floating and his sore spot. Then fill out our diagnostic form with as much information as you can.  A video of him swimming would also be helpful :)

 

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank)

* Nitrite Level(Tank)

* Nitrate level(Tank)

* Ammonia Level(Tap)

* Nitrite Level(Tap)

* Nitrate level(Tap)

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* Water temperature?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

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  • Regular Member
12 hours ago, Arctic Mama said:

I’m going to need a lot more information and pictures to help more, so I know we aren’t missing a cause.  Please attach as many clear pictures as you can that show him floating and his sore spot. Then fill out our diagnostic form with as much information as you can.  A video of him swimming would also be helpful :)

 

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank)

* Nitrite Level(Tank)

* Nitrate level(Tank)

* Ammonia Level(Tap)

* Nitrite Level(Tap)

* Nitrate level(Tap)

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* Water temperature?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

 

IMG_20210612_081349.jpg

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  • Regular Member
12 hours ago, Arctic Mama said:

I’m going to need a lot more information and pictures to help more, so I know we aren’t missing a cause.  Please attach as many clear pictures as you can that show him floating and his sore spot. Then fill out our diagnostic form with as much information as you can.  A video of him swimming would also be helpful :)

 

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank)

* Nitrite Level(Tank)

* Nitrate level(Tank)

* Ammonia Level(Tap)

* Nitrite Level(Tap)

* Nitrate level(Tap)

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* Water temperature?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

Have posted some photos but could not upload the video...the filter is Eheim pick up 200 internal filter. Putting fluval aqua plus water conditioner in the tap water. Filter Enheim sponges usually used but have changed at the moment to carbon sponge for 4 weeks. Use Api test strips . Nitrite no.3 =200 , Nitrite no.2 =0 , PH =7.0 , KH =40 , GH =180.

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  • Regular Member
16 minutes ago, Monique Chester said:

IMG_20210612_081057.jpg

This is his bottom, upside down in corner by waterfall . This is where he rests up there and only comes down if he sees me and comes for peas .He has to struggle to turn round but when does he swims up the correct way. Has to work hard to eat off bottom of tank..

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  • Regular Member

I haven't used any medication or any additives at all ever. Just tap water with conditioner . Yesterday night I gave him some cooked peas and this morning he had a green poo come out. I am not going to feed for 3 days ...just peas at night and see if he improves. The others are doing the same and they are fighting fit ..

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  • Helper

Can you please get the information and history details of the fish and the tank into the actual form? I look to specific parts of it for information and refer back often, the organizational format helps me help you.

 

if you’re able, the strips are really inaccurate and a liquid test kit is a better choice. We recommend the API Freshwater Master Test kit, which Chewy has for a good price for US residents. Your nitrate is either mis-tested or off the charts ridiculously toxic.  What kind of water change schedule do you have? Tank volume? Feeding schedule?

 

Many more details please :)

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Yes I will get that test kit but am in UK so can order from amazon or buy in Pets at Home. The tank is 100 litres . I change 20 % water every week and daily suction the gravel to remove poo and any food. I used to feed floating dry flakes and I think thats when this fish got costipated. Now I changed to Repashy gold gel food but maybe I have been feeding too much of it ? I am worried the gel may not agree with him , perhaps it has clogged him up . It clogged up the filter sponge and I am going to try sinking pellets when I start feeding . Still giving peas just once in the evening and he is coming out a bit now and swimming round now and again. This morning he had stringy white poo come out ?

Monique

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  • Helper

Okay the repashy is probably the issue, it seems to gum up systems way more than other foods and makes a bit of a mess, that plus the water changes would explain the nitrates.

 

Your tank is way too small for that many goldfish, and of that size. So you absolutely must compensate with larger water changes and more frequently knocking the poop and mulm from your canister filter’s media. 
 

if you’re not already, be rinsing any filter floss in that canister in old tank water monthly. Water changes should be 80-100% twice weekly on a tank that size. I’m not exaggerating. Your nitrate should not get above 20 ppms and you’re ten times that amount, which is stressing the animals out and making them sick. The white stringy poop is most likely just due to stress and not a parasite or bacterial infection, but even if it is we must figure out the water quality first.

Your first order of business is a complete water change, or very close to it. I like to drain the tank  until the water is just barely covering the fish, refill it halfway with dechlorinated water, and then drain it back down to barely cover the fish. Once it is fully refilled the water is nearly 100% changed that way (with two partial changes) and you don’t have to mess with catching the animals or anything like that.

Doing that at LEAST one day per week, with another partial change mid week, is your best bet for keeping the nitrate reasonable in a tank that size. With just this change in water maintenance I wouldn’t be surprised if your buoyancy issues are mostly or completely solved and it will drastically improve the health and longevity of the fish :)

 

Any questions? If you can maintain that water change schedule for two weeks and check back in with us as to how they’re doing, we can treat any residual issues then. But even the sore spot on his belly from floating isn’t going to get better if his immune system is compromised from a dirty tank, so that must be fixed before we try other things.

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  • Regular Member

Wow thanks for such a comprehensive list of instructions , and I will follow them to the letter. I was right then about that gel food and now I feel confident to do big water changes. I would like a new bigger tank  but right now will concentrate on water quality in this tank and see the results. Once again thanks for your continued support and I will come back to ypu in 2 weeks time 🐠🐠🐠🐠👍😁

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  • Regular Member

Good Luck to you and your fishies! 

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Thank you so much . I stayed up after work last night till 2am to do the 100% water change ....so I am not going to give up till he is better 👍😁🐠

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  • Regular Member
On 6/14/2021 at 11:40 AM, Monique Chester said:

Thank you so much . I stayed up after work last night till 2am to do the 100% water change ....so I am not going to give up till he is better 👍😁🐠

How is everything going?

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I took the advise and cleaned everything . The filter was running ok but when I opened it all that gel food was solid in there...really horrible and thick . I put a complete new filter in and things are looking up ! The following day all the redness under his belly was gone and although still sleeping upside down is now able to swim down and mix with the other fish and eat off the bottom. I feel sure if I keep up the clean water reduced feeding he will be ok in a couple of weeks. Thanks so much for asking 😁

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Yes for sure . I am learning all the time....The other 3 fish were ok so I didnt think it was the filter not doing its job etc. I am doing the water changes as advised decause the tank is too small and the fish is not going upside down any more !

I am so grateful to the lady who gave me her expert advise..Arctic Mama 🐠😁💕

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  • Helper

I’m so glad it helped! Many of the problems we see on this forum are husbandry and water quality problems. Goldfish are somewhat unique that way, in that they’re both very widely kept fish but also have some surprising unique issues with waste production and water quality that the standard advice for tropical fish keeping doesn’t address. Water testing, LARGE regular water changes, and filter maintenance are the most critical factors for their help. Along with proper quarantine procedures with new livestock you can avoid almost all illness with them.

 

Goldfish keepers are water keepers first and foremost. If your water quality is kept in top shape that keeps everything else running smoothly. Knocking junk from the filters (never toss the media unless it’s disintegrating, always just rinse the filter pads in old tank water and hit them against the sides of a bucket to knock poop free) is the only big maintenance required beyond water changes and regular testing to make sure your nitrates haven’t climbed. High nitrates aren’t as instantly toxic to the fish as nitrites and ammonia but they still cause harm and weaken the fish’s immune system when they’re persistently high. But they can climb without any symptoms for a long time and to very high levels if you aren’t looking for it. Especially in a small tank, large and frequent water changes and testing before those water changes to make sure you’re not climbing beyond about 20 ppms of nitrate is really important. It saves so much drama and heartache :)

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Yes that's right . Brilliant. My fish is swimming upright now and till this morning was feeding off the bottom with the others. This morning he had trailing white poo still attached and was swimming by the surface and not eating..I think he is having trouble with passing a poo ? Yesterday his bottom looked big and a bit sore but he was eating fine. I think he may be uncomfortable..maybe constipated ? Should I put epsom salt in water or can it be bacterial infection ? Sorry to keep on asking but I don't want to do the wrong thing 🐠😁 

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