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HELP!! Fancy Goldfish Sucked up Filter


Allie

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My fancy goldfish was sucked into the filter tail first and is now having trouble swimming. It’s swimming in a spiral or just floating. The other fish in the tank are trying to eat it so I separated it with a net. I’m really new to keeping goldfish and I’m wondering if anyone has advice for me.

Thank you for your help!!

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Keep it separated, definitely. How did it get sucked up? Did the intake fall off or did you find it suctioned against the filter? Accidents happen to the best of us, but if it was the latter we probably want to open a disease thread and investigate, as healthy goldfish are strong swimmers and getting pushed around by the current or sucked against the filter is unusual and means something isn’t right.

But if the intake strainer was knocked loose and this goldfish just happened to be the unfortunate casualty, the best you can do is keep it separated, lights off, and give it a day or five of low stress recovery. If it is injured with an open wound or missing scales we may want to treat it in a hospital tank, too. Can you post pictures and more details?

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The fish was against the filter. I got my fish ten days ago and this fish was always a little slower than the others. Last night I noticed it was having trouble eating (trying to eat but wasn’t opening its mouth wide). 

Here is a picture of the fish. Thank you so much for your help

 

3FE044C8-D24C-4710-BA99-077B8E1E3469.jpeg

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Okay, that’s definitely not normal. If this is a new fish, it would benefit from quarantine and treatment for flukes, especially if he isn’t able to open his mouth much.

Hop on over to the goldfish disease page and please start a thread with this form filled in as completely as possible. We especially need to know about the history of the tank, the water parameters, and any tank mates. If this fish is sick the entire tank of friends will need treatment, as fish from the pet store often carry viruses, bacteria, and parasites that can infect the healthy fish at home. What you’re describing and what I’m seeing in that picture would indicate at least flukes, possibly more. So we will want to proceed with treatment and getting the basic squared away on quarantine, treatment, and then general care :)

 

here is the form to copy and paste into your disease thread:

 

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank)

* Nitrite Level(Tank)

* Nitrate level(Tank)

* Ammonia Level(Tap)

* Nitrite Level(Tap)

* Nitrate level(Tap)

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* Water temperature?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

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Thank you so much for your help.

I sadly figured out the problem. My snail died and the water had lots of ammonia because of it. I changed the water and hopefully my fish will recover.

Its been a rough day for my tank :( 

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Definitely test your water daily, if the ammonia is getting up over .25 ppms it is time for a full water change - 80-100%. That also likely means your tank isn’t cycled. We can help you with that and how to handle your fish during that cycle.

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  • 4 months later...
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On 12/13/2020 at 10:19 PM, Arctic Mama said:

Definitely test your water daily, if the ammonia is getting up over .25 ppms it is time for a full water change - 80-100%. That also likely means your tank isn’t cycled. We can help you with that and how to handle your fish during that cycle.

Up to 100% !!??! That sounds way too excessive! Up to 80% water change but even that is high. Having a high ammonia content is no reason to “throw the baby out with the bath water”. Yes you need to do a water change but for high ammonia you should do about 20% to 30% of your aquarium volume. Clean your filter mediums (using the aquarium water you had just removed - never with tap water). That should give you a good balance without having to start your cycle from square one. I've been keeping fresh water aquarium species for over 45 years and I have never done a 100% water change unless there was disease or I was moving. 

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2 hours ago, EdmGuppyGal said:

Up to 100% !!??! That sounds way too excessive! Up to 80% water change but even that is high. Having a high ammonia content is no reason to “throw the baby out with the bath water”. Yes you need to do a water change but for high ammonia you should do about 20% to 30% of your aquarium volume. Clean your filter mediums (using the aquarium water you had just removed - never with tap water). That should give you a good balance without having to start your cycle from square one. I've been keeping fresh water aquarium species for over 45 years and I have never done a 100% water change unless there was disease or I was moving. 

Respectfully, the best practices on this for goldfish have evolved over the years, especially as imported fancies are proving more delicate and disease prone. I haven’t kept fish as long as you, I’m only edging up on 25 years at it, but trust me when I say that in a situation where ammonia is already high, getting the entirely of it out of the water column expediently is very important. The number one cause of disease I deal with on this forum is weakened and sick fish due to poor husbandry practices. The rules of thumb for tropical community tanks or even species tanks for other small and medium freshwater tropicals just don’t really work well for goldies, not unless the tank is extremely understocked.

Koko has a care guide in this site that explains the best practices we recommend and why, it might be a helpful read for you so we are all in the same page. But as a helper here, I deal with a whole lot of tank issues and water quality is by far the biggest. With proper stocking and water changes, along with appropriate initial quarantine procedures, I’d say the vast majority of goldfish related maladies can be avoided entirely. But large, frequent water changes are absolutely a part of that.

 

Also one more quibble, I may have misunderstood your post  - the cycle for your tank is not primarily maintained in the water column, but the denitrifying bacteria that cling to the surfaces of the tank and filter media as biofilm. Complete water changes with treated tap water do NOT negatively impact the cycle. They don’t even make it budge. Knocking debris from mechanical filter media also won’t harm things, though you’re 100% right that any rinses should be in removed tank water or treated tap water (I prefer the former) :)

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