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mygoldfishmylife

Both sick goldfish- one bump growth and other red bubble eye??

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Fish 1

50411a3be60b34ba8f4caf22d4325594.jpgc864febbfb9ca8f500eed8773d0149ab.jpg

Fish 2

4bbb378aa20b44157efd71bae3623b06.jpg77d9589980d53436a4c1018b7cda174b.jpg4f4d72203ada488b944198cd3b5e8106.jpg

 

 

* Test Results for the Following:

* * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0

* * Nitrite Level(Tank)0

* * Nitrate level(Tank)20

* * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) normal rangel

* Other Required Info:

* * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API test kit

* * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 55 gal, 4 years?

* * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? 1- marineland 2-55/75 aqeuon

* * How often do you change the water and how much? Once a week, ~90%

* * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Two days, 90%

* * How many fish in the tank and their size? For almost a few months, 1 fish (before I separated the two)

* * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime

* * What do you feed your fish and how often? Flakes, once a day

* * Any new fish added to the tank?no

FOR FISH 1 (with the bumps)

* * Any medications added to the tank? No

* * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Nothing as of the last 3 years or so

* * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Bloody streaks, one red growth on top of head, one really big growth on the side of the body, has been growing for three months, kinda popping out and white (tumor????)

* * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Eating very well and always asks for food, but sometimes sitting at the bottom but not often, white poop

I was gone on vacation for two months and gave him to my friend in a 20 gallon tank, but kept the same filters and he was prompt w the water changes and feeding schedule, but he just noticed the bump growing.

FOR FISH 2 (w the eye)

Has been in 10 gal quarantine tank for maybe 5 months

* Any medications added to the tank? My friend has been using For a week, then we stopped it for 2 weeks and I just started getting back to it yesterday

* * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank.Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. I tired salt a few months ago, I did 2 days of prazi (but then I left out of town and my friend didn't continue)

* * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red gills, one eye looks like a bubble and the other is red and cloudy

* * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Eats and swims well, good poop color

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We need the pH of your tank, before water change, and your tap water.  I have no idea what "normal range" means.

 "Any medications added to the tank? My friend has been using For a week, then we stopped it for 2 weeks and I just started getting back to it yesterday"  I can't understand this.  Could you clarify?

When you said you  "tired salt a few months ago, I did 2 days of prazi "  What concentration of salt did you use and for how long?  

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We need the pH of your tank, before water change, and your tap water.  I have no idea what "normal range" means.
 "Any medications added to the tank? My friend has been using For a week, then we stopped it for 2 weeks and I just started getting back to it yesterday"  I can't understand this.  Could you clarify?
When you said you  "tired salt a few months ago, I did 2 days of prazi "  What concentration of salt did you use and for how long?  


Just tested the ph, 6.5. I meant to say we've been using Metroplex! I'll go edit it rn.
I believe it was 2.5 mg/L (1 teaspoon for 20 gallons) and for two days and my friend didn't continue the treatment ):

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Are you saying the pH in your tap water and your tank water (before a water change) are both 6.5?  

When you said you  "tired salt a few months ago, "  What concentration of salt did you use and for how long?  

Ammonia level of tap?

Nitrite level of tap?

Nitrate level of tap?

Edited by shakaho

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Are you saying the pH in your tap water and your tank water (before a water change) are both 6.5?  
When you said you  "tired salt a few months ago, "  What concentration of salt did you use and for how long?  
Ammonia level of tap?
Nitrite level of tap?
Nitrate level of tap?


I just checked the (high range) ph again, tank (left) looks about 7.4, and tap (right) looks less than they.
Salt concentration was one table spoon for ever 5 gallons, so 10.5 table spoons for my 55gal.

32ec7ea7464215efa9354974da978f70.jpg

Ammonia level of tap? 0
Nitrite level of tap?0
Nitrate level of tap?10 ish


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:fishtank

I would test your ph on the low end on your tank. Being low like that it could be lower than you think and if it is. You could have some ph and Kh issues. This can burn a fish if its to low :( 

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:fishtank
I would test your ph on the low end on your tank. Being low like that it could be lower than you think and if it is. You could have some ph and Kh issues. This can burn a fish if its to low  

48d172a1f5277e713c2c52cc5df449f6.jpg

Tank (left) tap (right) both look good to me



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33 minutes ago, mygoldfishmylife said:

Should I continue w the metroplex for the eye??


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yes :) 

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And what do I do about the bump on the first fish? Would rounds of orazi help? Or adding salt to both fish help w anything??


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Please test again and stand the card up with the tubes in front of the white part of the card.  Do both pH tests on the tap water.  Looking at the picture without the tubes next to the color boxes, I would guess the tank water to be ~8.2 and the tap water 7.4 or or lower. I'd like to know for sure.

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Please test again and stand the card up with the tubes in front of the white part of the card.  Do both pH tests on the tap water.  Looking at the picture without the tubes next to the color boxes, I would guess the tank water to be ~8.2 and the tap water 7.4 or or lower. I'd like to know for sure


Tank:

e1da8b753a7bab7dbe7a10505e440400.jpg

Tap:
8293b2c78311d3f803e21f5b6865a843.jpg



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Please do the high pH test on the tank and show it as above.     You need the high pH test since your tank water reads at the max on the regular pH test, which means 7.6 or higher.   Your tap water appears to  have pH 7.4-7.6.

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Please do the high pH test on the tank and show it as above.     You need the high pH test since your tank water reads at the max on the regular pH test, which means 7.6 or higher.   Your tap water appears to  have pH 7.4-7.6.


Tank ph:
77c68d8490b57624b404aac6320711d3.jpg

What do you think? It looks pretty high


Ammonia nitrite nitrate still the same

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8.2  for the tank.  7.4-7.6 for the tap.  You probably should not do more than a 50% change at one time.

I looked up your filter, which turns over a maximum of 400 gph.  That's big enough for a 40 gallon tank.Tell us how often you clean the filter and how you clean it.

We need to find a way to remove the ammonia from the tap water.  I'd like you to get a sponge filter and run it in the tank for two weeks to establish a population of nitrifiers.  Meanwhile, find a barrel, tote, trashcan or whatever that holds at least 30 gallons of water.  After the sponge filter has been in the tank for two weeks, fill the container with  water, add Prime and put in the sponge filter.  Test the water ~ every 12 hours.  When the ammonia reads zero, use the water for a water change.

Follow Koko's instructions for medication.  You may find that you don't need medicine once you eliminate the stress from changing pH and ammonia spikes.

 

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On 8/20/2017 at 2:33 PM, shakaho said:

8.2  for the tank.  7.4-7.6 for the tap.  You probably should not do more than a 50% change at one time.

I looked up your filter, which turns over a maximum of 400 gph.  That's big enough for a 40 gallon tank.Tell us how often you clean the filter and how you clean it.

We need to find a way to remove the ammonia from the tap water.  I'd like you to get a sponge filter and run it in the tank for two weeks to establish a population of nitrifiers.  Meanwhile, find a barrel, tote, trashcan or whatever that holds at least 30 gallons of water.  After the sponge filter has been in the tank for two weeks, fill the container with  water, add Prime and put in the sponge filter.  Test the water ~ every 12 hours.  When the ammonia reads zero, use the water for a water change.

Follow Koko's instructions for medication.  You may find that you don't need medicine once you eliminate the stress from changing pH and ammonia spikes.

 

 

Alright will do. Would changing more water destabilize the pH?

 I have two filters, both at 400gph each. I clean the filters twice a year, i rinse all the media in aquarium or treated water and completely clean out the actual filter. I can send you a picture of my media if you want.

Shouldn't my media take care of the ammonia in the tap water? And if I get a sponge filter I'll have to do that before I add the new water in, correct?

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You can do a larger water change, but check the tank pH before and after the water change to see how much it changes.  You don't want to stress the fish with a sudden pH change.  

If you don't clean the gunk from the filters frequently, the bacteria that feed on the gunk use up the oxygen in the water.  Nitrifiers also need oxygen to do their work, so dirty filters can lead to inefficient oxidation of ammonia and nitrite.  

I don't see where you said you had ammonia in the tap water.  Did I miss something or did I get you confused with someone else?

We find it really, really hard to figure out what is going on in a tank when people retype the form  rather than quoting or copying and pasting and answering all of the questions on the form.  

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Okay that makes sense... I'll clean my filters more often. This is how one of my padding looks like- I'm not sure if it's growing algae on it or if that's just the gunk from the filter (the circular pattern is what's throwing me off) 602e338a038168fc8cf3f7b4fb3f0c56.jpg

And also, I just tested my tap to be sure
Would I still need a sponge filter or would a cleaner filter have the ammonia and nitrite levels under control?
59f667de7f519ceee383122dd35beb49.jpg584a6fdebcd55f7fc7c8f303aba7eebb.jpg

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You just rinse off the gunk that comes off easily.  Some of the nitrifiers are brown so don't expect any media to come out looking like new.  

So you do have ammonia and nitrite in your tap water.  If your tank water has zero ammonia and nitrite,  when you do a water change, you will increase the concentration of ammonia and nitrite in the tank.  This amount won't kill your fish if your nitrifiers oxidize it quickly.  You will have to determine how long this takes.  Do a water change, measure ammonia and nitrite in the tank right after the change and then every half hour (or whatever you find convenient) until both read zero.  

If you dose with Prime every day and maintain 1 teaspoon of salt per 10 gallons of water,  Your fish should have no trouble with the tap ammonia/nitrite.  

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Alright. What do I do about the growing white bump for the first fish? Is it a tumor? Should I do rounds of prazi for both fish in case there's anything?

 

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Tell me how long it took to eliminate ammonia and nitrate after a water change.

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This is an older thread I started 2 months ago about the fish w the red eye, I think the red eye and gills are a fluke infestation

 

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1 minute ago, shakaho said:

Tell me how long it took to eliminate ammonia and nitrate after a water change.

I'll check in the next few days after the water change

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I forgot to check the nitrates after the water change but I'm changing the water soon and I'll check for you asap. From my last change, after 2 min, ammonia was around .25, ph at 8. After 30 min the ammonia started getting to 0, pH still the same. I also noticed my fish now has red streaks and fin rot with blood on part of his tail. Should I add salt for the fin rot?

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