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jlovely98

White Bubble on Black Moor

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Hi,

 

I have a two year old black moor that had some white stuff on her eyes and what looked like body slime that I treated with API Fungus Cure Powder.  However, her eyes now have what looks like a white bubble on them.  I have purchased some API T.C. Tetracycline.  Do you think that this could be bacterial?  If not, how should I treat it?  I don't want to kill the fish by over medicating. It has been a over week since I did the last dose of the Fungus Cure.  I don't think the bubble looks like Popeye.  But, please let me know what you think.

 

20160909_222037.jpg

 

 

20160909_221901.jpg

 

My tank is a quarantine tank that is still cloudy from the Fungus Cure Powder.  The parameters were checked at the pet store and are as follows and are approximates:

 

Ammonia ~ 0

Nitrate ~ 40

Nitrite ~ 0

ph ~ 7.2

Chlorine ~ 0

Alkalinity ~ 40

 

Thanks for any help

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hello jlovely, welcome! sorry that your black moor is not well. a moderator will be by soon to help you. 

 

in the meantime, if you are able to get yourself a kit of API test drops so that you can test for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrAte at home, it could go a long way to helping you, the mods, and your fish through a healing process. :)

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Hi,

 

I do have the master test kit, but with the water still being a little green I wasn't sure if it would be accurate.

 

Thanks

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Welcome to Kokos!

 

Please copy the form below, paste it into your post and answer the questions on the form.  You can find some help in answering the questions here.

 

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:
  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
      • * Water temperature?
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
  • * Any new fish added to the tank?
  • * Any medications added to the tank?
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
  •  

 

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ok that's great! i suggest you go ahead and do the tests, reading the results to the best of your ability. the mods will ask you to fill out this form - which can look intimidating, but gives them all the info they need in one place. 

 

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:

Please follow this instruction. Copy the form, paste it in your post, and fill in your answers after the questions.  To help us even more, you can italize or color your answers, to make them easy to find, but you don't have to do that.  

 

Feel free to use metric units, I didn't use both systems here to keep things compact.  

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)  If you have a test kit, take these readings before you do a water change. If you don't have a test kit and can't get one immediately, please take samples of tank and tap water to your fish /pet store and request a test. Demand numbers for each test.
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) 
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) Please test tap water. It may contain ammonia or nitrate.  Tap water often varies in quality with weather/season, so don't just report an old test.  
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Difference in the pH of tank and tap can cause distress in your fish. We need both tap and tank results. 
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)   If you don't have KH and GH tests and have municipal water, you can often get this information from the water company.
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?  Please answer both brand and type.
      • * Water temperature?  If you don't use a heater, give the the air temperature. 
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?  Please answer both questions. If you aren't sure of the volume of the tank, give the length, width, and height. 
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? By the "size" of the filter we mean the gph/lph that it claims to turn over.
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? Please answer both questions.
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Please answer both questions
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? You may give the weight of each fish or the length.  For goldfish, include the variety, and use (and indicate that you used) the standard length (sl) -- the length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail fin.  You can estimate length. For example: 1 oranda, 3" sl, 2 pearlscales 1.5" and 2" sl.  For other species of fish that don't vary in tail length, you may use total length, from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail fin,  but please specify.  For example: 2 bristlenose plecos 3" tl 
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Water conditioner means the agent used against chlorine.  If you don't use a water conditioner, say why, for example, "well water."  "Water additives" include anything else that you regularly or recently have added to your water, including buffers, water clarifiers, algaecides, etc.
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), and how frequently you feed each.
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? If you have added new fish in the past few months, indicate which ones,  the duration of quarantine, and any treatments you used during quarantine
  • * Any medications added to the tank? This includes any used recently or currently in the tank.
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.  This can be a long answer if you have a sickly fish.  You can link to old D/D threads if we have advised on treatment before.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? List all physical symptoms.
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? List all behavioral symptoms.
  •  

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same moment :) you're in good hands with shakaho now, jlovely :)

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I won't be able to run the tests until this evening as I am at work right now.  I'll post back the numbers to the best of my ability.

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Welcome to Kokos and I hope your Moors eye feels better.

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  • Test Results for the Following:

    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - 0 ppm

    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0 ppm

  • * Nitrate level(Tank)  - 5 - 10 ppm (it was orange in color...not sure if it was closer to the 5 or 10 though)

* Ammonia Level(Tap)  - 0 ppm

* Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0 ppm

* Nitrate level(Tap) - 0 ppm

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - 7.6 (7.4 high Ph test)

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)   - 7.6

Other Required Info:

  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?  API Freshwater Master Test Kit

  • * Water temperature?  72 degrees F

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?  10 gallon tank; complete water change about 2 months ago; 1/2 water change 2 weeks ago when fish became sick. I am using the 10 gallon tank as a quarantine tank.

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? TopFin 10 Filter

* How often do you change the water and how much? Water is changed every two weeks or so now. In past water was not changed very often though. Will be changing 20% or so water weekly in new tank I have (will be moving fish to 36 gallon tank).

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 2 days ago changed about 20%; 1 day ago changed 10-15% again when noticed that the meds were not clearing out of the water. The water still has a green cast to it.

  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 1 Black Moor about 6 inches; 1 algae eater about 3 or so inches.

* What kind of water additives or conditioners? Quick start; API Stress Coat +

* What do you feed your fish and how often? TetraMin tropical flakes twice a day

* Any new fish added to the tank? I bought a new tank and added new fish to it and the two old fish (black moor and algae eater). The two old fish became stressed and had a white fungus on them so I moved them back to the quarantine tank. 

* Any medications added to the tank? API Fungus Cure Powder

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. This is the second treatment with the API Fungus Cure Powder. The first treatment was about 3 months ago. The black moor had cloudy eye that seemed to clear up (although she did loose one eye). Treatment was for four days each time, according to the directions.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Frayed fins were cleared up with the first treatment of Fungus Cure Powder. Black moor has lost one eye as shown in the pictures.

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? She seems a little agitated, but is eating and swimming around.

Edited by jlovely98

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Mainly I am wondering if I should do another water change and then dose with the Tetracycline.  Or just a water change and hope the fungus/bacteria goes away on its own.

 

It's not POPEYE right?

 

Thanks!!

Edited by jlovely98

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I would not personally dose the tetracycline, it is an antibiotic of fairly limited usefulness.

Tell me can you scrape the white patches off with your fingernail or are they pretty firmly stuck?

If the fungus cure hasn't worked through a full course based on the package directions, the next step are two antibiotics you may have to order and express ship - Seachem Kanaplex (kanamycin) and API Furan-2.

Also, please consider bigger water changes in your tank regardless - more water changes tends to give you better redox and helps the fish stay their best. 50% weekly is usually the bare minimum we recommend for the best results with goldies :)

Edited by Arctic Mama

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Hope your fish feel better soon

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Please read our guidelines for healthy goldfish.  You will see that we recommend changing a minimum of 50% of the water given that you have 20 gallons of water per goldfish.  With only 10 gallons, you should change at least 50% twice a week.  I'm sure someone has told you that you should change only small amounts of water, but goldfish produce lots of waste and need large frequent water changes.  Since your tap water and tank water have the same pH  even very large water changes should not upset your fish.

 

Just improving the water quality may help a lot.  I would like to see you change 50% of the water daily for the next several days, but if that is too much for you, at least change 20% daily.  

 

Do you have aquarium salt or some other 100% NaCl with no additives?

 

What kind of "algae eater" do you have?  If you don't know, could you take a picture of it?

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Thanks. I will do a 50% water change over the next few days. And not medicate the fish.

 

Should I go ahead and add the API Stress Coat+ each time I do the water change?

 

I'm not sure what kind of algae eater he is..He looks a lot like the Chinese Algae Eater.  He is hiding so I cannot get a picture right now.  But it does seem like his eyes may be protruding too.

 

I do have aquarium salt but have never used it.

Edited by jlovely98

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I think you should remove the algae eater from the tank.  You can read one reason why here, and if you do a search on goldfish and algae eaters, you will find many more cases.

 

If your water contains chlorine, you have to add a water conditioner.  

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Here is the picture of the algae eater I have.  He has always been with the black moor.  I'll see about moving him to the bigger 36 gallon tank. But, it is the only tank I'll have for all of the fish.  I won't be running the 10 gallon tank after the moor gets better.

 

Also, both fish are swimming more today.  I'll do another 50% water change tonight.  I have well water so there should not be chlorine in it.  I did go ahead and add the stress coat + though last night when I did the water change.  The moor's eye looks about the same...I'll wait and see on it.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

20160911_120150.jpg

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Please keep up the water changes for the time being - I'd suggest 50% every two days right now for two weeks (you don't have to keep it up forever, just while they're sick and then bump it to once weekly again but the larger amount instead of tiny water changes), because this could well heal with heal clean water. If it doesn't we can try salt dips and antibiotics but water quality is first and foremost.

Edited by Arctic Mama

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Please keep up the water changes for the time being - I'd suggest 50% every two days right now for two weeks (you don't have to keep it up forever, just while they're sick and then bump it to once weekly again but the larger amount instead of tiny water changes), because this could well heal with heal clean water. If it doesn't we can try salt dips and antibiotics but water quality is first and foremost.

Thanks.  I will continue the water changes and let you know how everything goes.

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awesome, jlovely. sending good thoughts!  :P

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