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"Velvet"is looking velvety


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  • Regular Member

Hello, 

my name is Annette, and this is my reaching out to your community for help regarding my little two and a half inch black moor. He and my female oranda live in a 35 gallon that is filled to 32 , I know they should be in a 40, but I change the water every five days half way. 

 

I am wondering though, 

 

what at is happening to my moor. Yesterday I was somewhat startled by what was happening on his back fins. But now it has been another new morning and this appearance was even more prevalent. 

The two have ich , which was introduced when the heater broke leaving them at a durastic 58 from a usual 72. I brought the temperature back up as usual it knowing my actions. 

They are fighters. 

 

I bought rid ich on May 24th . Used it until it ran out daily with water changes.

going back to buy a second bottle from kordon I accidentally grabbed malachite green. I didn't notice until the day after . 

I decided to go with .05 mg/l daily , and lights out like this and many sites suggested.

because of the less effectiveness when otherwise etc,

 

is is it too harsh on them maybe? 

Or itbis less effective without the formaldehyde/fermalyn  (sp?)

 he used to be the liveliest and would chase my oranda for days in attempts to spawn with her when the 80degree gradual rise happened on May 24th etc

they eat blood worms and tithra green's home made gel food recipes ich has half veggies and meat as well as sinking pellet food occasionally in hopes that their immune will stay up. I was soaking their food in a bit of garlic & water mix a week ago.

 

 

salt is safer, but I found it didn't really work before and it caused slight bloat in my oranda so I stopped doing that last time. Of course gorges on velvets food so he was probably just baxkdd up now that I think about it

 

I introduced a 1% salt solution at 11 am this morning and did a immediate halt to malachite green after their sixth morning  dose today.  I put activated carbon in the filter. And did a 50%water change

 

just wondering if I should do salt, or if that is useless in this occasion as it is more than ich that he has

 

 

I don't know how to imbed a video but here is a link to velvet 

sorry it is so short

it Is kind of like he is a bit milky .

the water has been at 80f for quite a while now I guess

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • Regular Member

You're going to be asked to fill out this form to give a better idea of the situation to those who can help, I pasted the form below for you. 

I think it might be excess slime coat being produced? I'm sure more experienced members will be here very quickly to give better advice and input. 
 

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:

Please follow this instruction. Copy the form, paste it in your post, and fill in your answers after the questions.  To help us even more, you can italize or color your answers, to make them easy to find, but you don't have to do that.  

 

Feel free to use metric units, I didn't use both systems here to keep things compact.  

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)  If you have a test kit, take these readings before you do a water change. If you don't have a test kit and can't get one immediately, please take samples of tank and tap water to your fish /pet store and request a test. Demand numbers for each test.
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) 
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) Please test tap water. It may contain ammonia or nitrate.  Tap water often varies in quality with weather/season, so don't just report an old test.  
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) Difference in the pH of tank and tap can cause distress in your fish. We need both tap and tank results. 
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)   If you don't have KH and GH tests and have municipal water, you can often get this information from the water company.
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?  Please answer both brand and type.
      • * Water temperature?  If you don't use a heater, give the the air temperature. 
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?  Please answer both questions. If you aren't sure of the volume of the tank, give the length, width, and height. 
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? By the "size" of the filter we mean the gph/lph that it claims to turn over.
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? Please answer both questions.
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Please answer both questions
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? You may give the weight of each fish or the length.  For goldfish, include the variety, and use (and indicate that you used) the standard length (sl) -- the length from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail fin.  You can estimate length. For example: 1 oranda, 3" sl, 2 pearlscales 1.5" and 2" sl.  For other species of fish that don't vary in tail length, you may use total length, from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail fin,  but please specify.  For example: 2 bristlenose plecos 3" tl 
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Water conditioner means the agent used against chlorine.  If you don't use a water conditioner, say why, for example, "well water."  "Water additives" include anything else that you regularly or recently have added to your water, including buffers, water clarifiers, algaecides, etc.
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Give the brand, type of food (sinking/floating pellets, gel food, steamed vegetable, etc.), and how frequently you feed each.
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? If you have added new fish in the past few months, indicate which ones,  the duration of quarantine, and any treatments you used during quarantine
  • * Any medications added to the tank? This includes any used recently or currently in the tank.
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.  This can be a long answer if you have a sickly fish.  You can link to old D/D threads if we have advised on treatment before.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? List all physical symptoms.
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? List all behavioral symptoms.
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  • Helper

Yes, please completely fill out the form, especially the treatment history and medication used. Some of these can interact with salt and kill your animal. Do a big water change, preferably two back to back to flush the med cocktail out of your tank, and we will give you instructions going forward once we know all of what we are dealing with,

Welcome to Koko's!

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  • Regular Member

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:.

 

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank)zero (I'm using prime every day though)
* Nitrite Level(Tank) zero
* Nitrate level(Tank) not zero, it would say 5 ppm .

 

* Ammonia Level(Tap) zero
* Nitrite Level(Tap) zero
* Nitrate level(Tap) zero

 

* Ph Level, Tank either 7.o or 7.2 can't tell really(If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
* Ph Level, Tap (more blue)7.6 on low ph test 7.4 on high rang (lowest indicator)

 

Other Required Info:

 

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Api master test kit 

 

* Water temperature?80

 

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?   filled to 32 gallons at the moment normally 34

 

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Aqua clear 70 & 30 By the "size" I think together they do 350 gph

 

* How often do you change the water and how much? Every five days sometimes was more cause I wanted them to have clean water so they would grow. They have since February when I got them

 

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?  this morning 50% yesterday maybe 2/3

 

* How many fish in the tank and their size? Two my little orange oranda is two and a half and plumper than my black moor who is about two inches his fins are shorter than hers ...oranda and black moor

 

* What kind of water additives or conditioners? Api I have ph up but I was doing so many water changes I decided to let it stay at the same as the tap since it may be healthier for them than fluxuations

 

* What do you feed your fish and how often? Before they got ich they had corn as a treat, cucumbers, broccoli banana once or twice peas but then I saw home made gel food so I added peppers kale garlic tilapia(?) and carrots etc to make that instead , frozen pro salt blood worms, sinking nutrifin max pellets colour enhancer pellets are in my stash but I kind of stopped using them as much since my orange oranda would hog all of them and get bouyancy issues after , that stoked with the switch a few months ago, a bit in the morning at ten am and a bit around 1 pm .... Usually bloodworms through this treatment every other day, just enough to for them to eat in a few mins  

 

* Any new fish added to the tank? Nope 

 

* Any medications added to the tank? Aquarium salt , / pickling salt which salt is the only ingredient ..... I use the weighing scale and the equation 3.79 x31 gallons to get 117 grams (1%) in their tank right now. ......I was stupid and had it at 1% for eight days when I was treating them before the rid inch at first by accident found it wasn't working too much so I started rid ice treatment ! following the malachite green after buying that after it ran out by accident all the while heing an elevated 80 --82 f temperature  Malachite green at 0.05 per litre so 15 ml each day makes .05 % the package says, the safe amount

 

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

 

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? my little white and orange guy got blood streaks when he started to bloat from the three percent salt bath but that went away , I don't see dropsy evidence since he is pretty much himself but unfortunately there are streaks on him right now probably from so much stress of meds and water changes every day, they have ich and have had it since I would say may 12 when they would scratch on the sand it barely had any spots (black guy had no spots but would itch )

 

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? they all eat, they just don't play in the bubble want like they used to when they were them selves , but orange oranda still scavenges, my black moor was scavenging and always swimming even when the lights were switched off for the 6 malachite green treatment days up until today now he just goes and swims around when he chooses to and hovers around the sand instead, I'm guessing h will bounce back since he is the more risiliNt one if I keep up with the ich treatment

Edited by shakaho
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  • Helper

Haha! Next time please delete the sample text and explanations, it makes for a super confusing read :rofl2

Thank you for getting it filled out so promptly. Let me clarify - both fish have been in since February right? And no new plants, invertabrates, or wild items like rocks or drift wood have been added? If stuff has been added, what and when?

Edited by Arctic Mama
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Looking at your video the moor looks fine - that milky coloration is from the high salt you used (1% is way too much, we usually don't treat with more than .3-.5% {1-1.5 tablespoons per gallon, roughly} unless it is a quick dip, as it can be irritating to the fish). It's just excess slime coat.

I don't see any spots on either fish - just some normal wen growth funkiness on the oranda, but those aren't ich spots. And if absolutely zilch has been added to the tank since February it wouldn't be ich in a tank that warm - you'd have seen tomites on your fish within two weeks of bringing them home.

Definitely definitely do those back to back water changes. 50% now and 50% tomorrow morning should do it. We want to get out the malachite green and salt, but the latter can't be reduced too quickly or if can shock your fish. I'd like to observe them in three days' time and see what, if any symptoms they are displaying then, okay?

Is anything I've said confusing? Do you have any more questions?

Edited by Arctic Mama
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In March I brought a purple and green lettuc looking plant that I am keeping in a different container now with heat at 80 degrees with salt ,I'm know that's bad for it. , but just so that I can reintroduce it at the end of this ich flush , it was in an empty tank when I bought it months ago, um when I first got them in February I had river rocks which I scrubbed in hot water , but that I shortly after got rid of because of the gravel vacuuming etc, they were just to weigh down the plastic grass,

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Well, I saw I have at the start of this treatment six days ago and it has lessened to what it is now.mi originally thought I could just continue on with kordon malachite green for maybe four more days until they stopped scratching on the sand, or twitching occasionally

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  • Helper

Even with the plant it's unlikely you had ich, the timing isn't right for it. Do you have any pictures of the suspected ich?

With the fish I really strong recommend the treatment plan (or rather trreatment detox) I outline in my previous post. Good luck with whatever you decide to do :)

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i saw ich or a spot on my black moor three days a goon his dorsal fin , it took days for it to show up, but the orange one had it on his wen, you don't think it is? I should look at my phone and see if I have any past photos

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Xstatic, thank you for asking her to fill out the form, however what you want to use is here.  You copied instructions for filling out the form, which made a bit of a mess.  Don't worry.  I fixed it.

 

Annette, please be careful about concentrations.  We sometimes give wrong advice when someone says they used 3% salt when they actually used 0.3% salt.

 

0.1% salt = 1 teaspoon per gallon

0.2% salt = 2 tsp per gallon

0.3% salt =3 tsp per gallon = 1 tablespoon per gallon.

 

1% salt = 10 teaspoons per gallon

2% salt = 20 tsp per gallon

3% salt = 30 tsp per gallon.

Edited by shakaho
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  • Helper

Okay well thanks for the help I will await their little immune systems to kick in and will see if they get better :-) I will do that. I will stop gravel vacuuming too for maybe three days like you said just to see. ? :-)

Yes, you shouldn't need to gravel vacuum. Feed normally if they're eating and just change out the water like I instructed, 50% tonight and 50% tomorrow morning. Check in toward the weekend with video and pictures if you're still concerned or other symptoms present.

What I'm seeing on your Oranda is some patches of white growth on the wen. Totally normal. Ich would not show up so late without something new being added to the system and it doesn't look like that - it's identical to little salt crystals and you're going to feel them raised and bumpy.

Edited by Arctic Mama
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  • Regular Member

Hello , I just wanted to know what you think I should do . This morning my goldfish velvet's tail was changed durasticly. My other fish Creamsicle is doing what seems to be completely fine. I wondered if I should unfortunately separate the two since his tail fins have split and he is a little docile . 

 

Thanks :-)  sorry for not waiting three days. 

It is just that he has changed is all.

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Velvet is the black one, yes? Can you please put him in a cup or jar and take some good, closeup, well lit pictures of his tail and body? We may need to move him into a QT and treat him separately, but I cannot see him well in the video. Moors can be tough to photograph, but high light/flash often helps.

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