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gothicchick1100

sickly goldfish

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Bit of an update, been doing 50% water changes everyday, no salt or meds, ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0. Red marks on the fishes body have disappeared, however now he is definitely flashing on the sides of the tank periodically, there is a whiteish film on some of his fins, and a red area is appearing as well. He has periods of ativity with his dorsal up, then sinks back to the bottom again with clamped fins. I'm thinking flukes? Ive ordered the fluke solve, should be here on Tuesday.

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The whitish film is most likely excess slime cost. Definitely let us know how the fluke treatment goes and follow our schedules on number of rounds to make sure the load of flukes is lowered as much as possible.

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The whitish film is most likely excess slime cost. Definitely let us know how the fluke treatment goes and follow our schedules on number of rounds to make sure the load of flukes is lowered as much as possible.

Is it normal for it to be on the fins only? Can I find all the information about treatment schedules on here?

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Sorry, I took a nap and didnt see this. Sometime you can only see the slime coat on the fine because of their transparency, but if you can take some good, well lit, closeup pictures for me I can have a better idea of what you're looking at.

Let me find the prazi schedule for you. Hang on a sec :)

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FIVE DAY ROUNDS

Day 1: Big WC (>50%), add Prazi. Make sure salt is at the appropriate concentration. This is the beginning of Round 1.

Day 5: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 1.

Day 6: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 2.

Day 10: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 2.

Day 11: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 3.

Day 15: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 3.

Day 16: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 4.

Day 20: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 4.

Day 21: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 5.

Day 25: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 5.

Day 26: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 6.

Day 30: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 6.

If you have no plants in there and powdered prazi adding aquarium safe salt at a rate of about 1 teaspoon per gallon may be a good idea (.1% salt concentration). Otherwise just follow this schedule and ignore the salt directions :)

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FIVE DAY ROUNDS

Day 1: Big WC (>50%), add Prazi. Make sure salt is at the appropriate concentration. This is the beginning of Round 1.

Day 5: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 1.

Day 6: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 2.

Day 10: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 2.

Day 11: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 3.

Day 15: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 3.

Day 16: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 4.

Day 20: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 4.

Day 21: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 5.

Day 25: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 5.

Day 26: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, and add Prazi. This is the start of Round 6.

Day 30: Big WC (>50%), replace salt, but do not add Prazi. This is the end of Round 6.

If you have no plants in there and powdered prazi adding aquarium safe salt at a rate of about 1 teaspoon per gallon may be a good idea (.1% salt concentration). Otherwise just follow this schedule and ignore the salt directions :)[/quote

Excellent thankyou, I shall follow this to the letter

My only concern is going that many days without a water change and issues with water quality

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So you can do intermediate water changes within that schedule, but if you do, just replace the same amount of salt/ prazi that you remove. For instance, my QT schedule was like this for a 10 gallon tank:

 

Day 1: add salt .3% and 1 tsp of prazipro.

 

Day 3: 30% WC, so i replace with fresh water (3 gallons), 9 tsps of salt and 1/3 tsp of prazi pro.

 

etc.

 

There's nothing that says WC are bad, even in the QT phase or treatment phase, as long as you replace back what is removed. Hope this helps.

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You can also rose prime every 48 hours to keep the ammonia neutralized. Or change the after more frequently and just redose the prazi, as Alexloo said :). Just observe the break periods - that is for hatching out any fluke eggs that have been shed. Thy won't hatch when the prazi is in the water but when removed they can grow and then be nuked in the next round. Mwahahahaaaa!

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I have had issues in the past with bacterial infections in my goldfish that seemed to come out of nowhere despite excellent water quality.  Random cysts, bloat- I was really discouraged!  What REALLY helped- that no one ever seems to mention in these forums- is upping the GH and KH of my water.  I keep my GH now at 150 PPM- about the same as a cichlid tank.  As a matter of fact that is what I use to treat my water, to add essential minerals to it, is the Cichlid Salt and Buffer sold commercially here in the US.  So my advice moving forward- as a preventative- keep your gold fish in hard water.  Of course never make any changes in water chemistry all at once.

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We do recommend keeping kh between 100 to 200 ppm in order to help prevent ph crashes.

 

I live in city with very soft water - gh = 0. I'm a supporter of having the gh between 100 to 200 ppm. I believe the calcium and magnesium are important nutrients to a goldfish's health. I don't think everyone would agree with me here. Also, I have anubias and they need calcium.

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We do recommend keeping kh between 100 to 200 ppm in order to help prevent ph crashes.

 

I live in city with very soft water - gh = 0. I'm a supporter of having the gh between 100 to 200 ppm. I believe the calcium and magnesium are important nutrients to a goldfish's health. I don't think everyone would agree with me here. Also, I have anubias and they need calcium.

 

what is the best way to up the gh and kh of my water,

 

and on a side note, none of my aquarium plants ever seem to do very well (mainly anubias) It starts off ok but they always seem to die off, do you have any idea what could cause this?

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For kh, see link in my signature below about using baking soda.

 

For gh, I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquariums (greenleafaquariums.com). Since you are in the UK, I would do some searching on the internet for "gh booster." Others from the UK may chime in here with recommendations. Or go here http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/forum/39-international-goldfish-help/   and go to the UK forum to see if there is a post about a gh booster.

 

Regarding your anubias, make a post about this problem in the Goldfish Plants forum. You'll get lots of help here (including myself).

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For kh, see link in my signature below about using baking soda.

 

For gh, I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquariums (greenleafaquariums.com). Since you are in the UK, I would do some searching on the internet for "gh booster." Others from the UK may chime in here with recommendations. Or go here http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/forum/39-international-goldfish-help/   and go to the UK forum to see if there is a post about a gh booster.

 

Regarding your anubias, make a post about this problem in the Goldfish Plants forum. You'll get lots of help here (including myself).

Ok great thanks.

My main tank has been showing a few signs of flukes, ocassaion fin flicking and bottom sitting, so I want to treat them for flukes, I have weather loaches in the tank as well, are they sensitive to fluke treatment or will be ok to treat with them in there? And do I do the 30 day treatment as mentioned before on the main tank?

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For kh, see link in my signature below about using baking soda.

 

For gh, I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquariums (greenleafaquariums.com). Since you are in the UK, I would do some searching on the internet for "gh booster." Others from the UK may chime in here with recommendations. Or go here http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/forum/39-international-goldfish-help/   and go to the UK forum to see if there is a post about a gh booster.

 

Regarding your anubias, make a post about this problem in the Goldfish Plants forum. You'll get lots of help here (including myself).

Ok great thanks.

My main tank has been showing a few signs of flukes, ocassaion fin flicking and bottom sitting, so I want to treat them for flukes, I have weather loaches in the tank as well, are they sensitive to fluke treatment or will be ok to treat with them in there? And do I do the 30 day treatment as mentioned before on the main tank?

 

 

your Loaches should do just fine in Prazi ..... I would do the 30 day :)

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i think i'm going to quarantine the loaches and treat the whole tank

 

got a quick couple pics of one of my other fish, he's always been rounder/chubbier, but does he look abnormally rounded or swollen to you?

 

 

i can't figure out how to add pictures

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For kh, see link in my signature below about using baking soda.

 

For gh, I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquariums (greenleafaquariums.com). Since you are in the UK, I would do some searching on the internet for "gh booster." Others from the UK may chime in here with recommendations. Or go here http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/forum/39-international-goldfish-help/   and go to the UK forum to see if there is a post about a gh booster.

 

Regarding your anubias, make a post about this problem in the Goldfish Plants forum. You'll get lots of help here (including myself).

Ok great thanks.

My main tank has been showing a few signs of flukes, ocassaion fin flicking and bottom sitting, so I want to treat them for flukes, I have weather loaches in the tank as well, are they sensitive to fluke treatment or will be ok to treat with them in there? And do I do the 30 day treatment as mentioned before on the main tank?

 

 

your Loaches should do just fine in Prazi ..... I would do the 30 day :)

 

ahh ok that's excellent, makes life easier

 

what about the salt with the loaches though?

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Weather loaches are scales less so.... this means they dont do well in salt... I have salted up to .1% with them when I had them years ago... but I never went higher...

 

HUMMM!

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Weather loaches are scales less so.... this means they dont do well in salt... I have salted up to .1% with them when I had them years ago... but I never went higher...

 

HUMMM!

Ok I see, so 0.1% for 30 days would be fine? I can easily move them if its better

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Weather loaches are scales less so.... this means they dont do well in salt... I have salted up to .1% with them when I had them years ago... but I never went higher...

 

HUMMM!

Ok I see, so 0.1% for 30 days would be fine? I can easily move them if its better

 

 

Or just Prazi, then do the salt after wards..... See if you prazi the goldfish, the weather loaches could have Flukes too.... So I would PRazi then take the loaches out then salt :)

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Just to let you guys know the fish in question recovered well and is back to his usual self. They are also now in their new 100 gallon tank. I've still been seeing some odd behaviour from other fish. in the old tank spanning for months and months my goldfish would bottom sit (fins always up, never clamped) seems to happen in the morning and afternoon, with periods of swimming then going back to resting again. It never happens in the evening for some reason. Most of my fish seem to do apart from 1. Some rarely do it, and for one fish it's a common occurance. It stopped for about two weeks of them going into the new tank. It's now started happening again, I'm really at my wits end. I've nearly finishes 7 rounds of prazi as well. However I believe I was actually underdosing the whole time, I got confused because the packet says 1 g for 250litres however the scoop provided is in ml, so I don't quite know what to do. Another thing to mention, for months one my ranchu has had these large white spots on his tail fin, they almost look waxy, they have disappeared for short periods of time and then seem to come back, it doesn't seem to effect him in any other way and there are no other symptoms. What on earth is going on?

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Do the fish actually bottom sit -- with their bellies on the bottom -- or do they hover just above the bottom?  Would you do us a huge favor and fill out the d/d form again?  Their situation has changed a lot with that big tank.

 

We really need pictures/videos.  You need to upload the pictures to a host like Photobucket -- which is free --  then you can easily copy and paste them into a post.  Once you have the pictures in a host program, if you can't paste them into a post, tell us the program you are using and we can walk you through it.

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I suppose it's more hovering, head slightly down. Ok I'll fill the form in later and send some pics through. Thank you for your fast reply

I did wonder if the sitting/ hovering was because of the current of my filter, I have a fluval fx6 canister, it's suitable for tanks up to 1500 so really is a beast. When they do sit its mainly in the back corner where there probably isn't any flow

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Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank): 0ppm

* Nitrite Level(Tank): 0ppm

* Nitrate level(Tank): 10-20ppm

* Ammonia Level(Tap): 0

* Nitrite Level(Tap): 0

* Nitrate level(Tap): 0

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): usually 7.6-8.0

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): 7.0

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API master kit w/ drops

* Water temperature? 20 - 22c

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 100 gallons, 2 weeks

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? fluval fx6 canister (for tanks up to 1500 litres) and an eheim aquaball

* How often do you change the water and how much? 50% every week

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Wednesday, 50%

* How many fish in the tank and their size? 6 fish all together, couple quite small, rest about 5 or so inches.3 weather loaches and two bristle nose please

* What kind of water additives or conditioners? Seachem Prime

* What do you feed your fish and how often? once a day, and a fast day once or twice a week. Repashy Soilet Green gel food, hikari lionhead pellets, frozen bloodworm, tubifex, peas and spinach

* Any new fish added to the tank? Two Bristle nose plecs

* Any medications added to the tank? 7 rounds of fluke solve

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration oftreatment. Just the fluke solve for 7 rounds

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White waxy large spotscale on rancho tail that have been there for months. Never treated because I didn't know what they were and he is healthy and active either no other symptoms. He used to sit in the old tank, but so far he hasn't in the new tank

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Bottom sitting, sometimes hovering, sometimes belly resting on the ground, (fins are always up, never clamped) appetite Is as normal, when they swim around as normal they look completely fine and healthy. I've also noticed occasion yawning.

Edited by gothicchick1100

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