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Possible fin rot?


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  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0 ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 ppm 
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) 40 ppm 
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0.25 ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 ppm
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) 10 ppm
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API drops
      • * Water temperature? 74-76 F
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 75 gal (60 gal swimming space); running for 8 months total, 3 monthswith fish
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? SunSun 304B and Fluval 405
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? Every 7 days 50%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 6 days ago 50%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 Oranda both about 6 inches
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?Seachem Prime and ferts for plants (CSM+B/KH2PO4/KHNO3)
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Repashy twice daily (2 grams for each fish total and alternating protein (bloodworms etc.) and nori
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? No
  • * Any medications added to the tank? Not now
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Prazi on entire tank for 6 weeks when fish first arrived.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Frayed fins on my blue oranda
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Everyone is at their normal activity level. 

 

I noticed that my blue Oranda, Storm, has frayed fins on the bottom lobes of her caudal fin. It is not excessive but it looks like it might be creeping up and has changed her normal grey color to a whitish color. I don't notice any film at the time. Sorry about photo quality I tried to do my best with how fast they are. On hand I have triple sulfa and QT tank ready to go. Just need the word if it is fin rot or not.

 

b2be6f72-3895-4718-8792-056e82dcffd8_zps

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Wow, that's hard to tell. It's pretty minimal if it is. I'm no expert, but I'd really recommend holding it on the triple sulfa and just putting her in QT with warm water and .1% salt until a mod can come on a help you. And do a big water change in your main tank just in case. I'd be aiming for 80-90% on this one to mitigate any possible environmental insults the could have caused the tail issue.

Hang tight and someone should be along with better and more specific advice :)

Edited by Arctic Mama
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Alright I put Storm in the QT last night with cycled media. I did put a heater in there and set it to about 78-80 F. Just a couple of questions...

 

How often should I do water changes in the QT? I figured that I would do a 100% change every day just to keep the water fresh and clean.

 

Is the temperature in the right range? And,

 

How long should I keep her in the QT?

Edited by Miss_Goldie
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How big is your QT?

Unless I'm dealing with a parasite I prefer to keep my Goldies in 74-76 degree water, as mine show stress getting closer to 80 and its harder to keep it oxygenated enough. If your QT is a 10 gallon I'd say daily changes are great, if it is larger you can probably spread it out to every other day or every three says instead.

I'd personally keep your buddy in QT for a week after symptoms have resolved, or two weeks minimum, whichever is longer. It won't hurt him one bit to be in there on the longer side.

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The QT is 15 gal. so I'll just change it daily. The heater is out too and I floated some ice to get the temp in the normal range. 

 

I'll keep you updated if thing worsen but it looks like she is going to do just fine. 

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Don't stress too much about the temp - when all else fails, watch your fish. If they're showing signs of stress start adjusting, but if they're handling it without any issues I'd just let it drop naturally or keep a lid off and aim a fan at the surface of the tank to cool it down naturally

Given how really minor the fin issues are, this is more for observation, mitigating the occurrence of secondary infections, and minimizing stress for healing, than any real emergent hospital tank triage :)

Any improvement on the fraying yet?

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You can also dose Prime to stretch out WCs or if you get too busy one day for a WCs. If ammonia plus nitrite is less than 1.0ppm, then dose prime. If greater than 1.0, then WC needed.

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I hope your fish starts to heal soon.  

Even with cycled media I wouldn't go more than a few days though without doing a huge w/c.  Clean fresh water can do wonders.

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Thanks everyone for all the information.

I did do a 100% water change last night and moved her to a bucket during the process. I thought this is probably really stressful. I was hoping I can stretch the days by adding the cycled media. Looks like it is working, ammonia levels are 0. (I tested the residual water left over in the bucket that I was holding her in). But now she has fresh clean water.

It seems like the fraying is going down. Before the tips of her fins were washed out looking, now the color is starting to come back.

I was thinking I'd she is better in a week I'd take her out and put her in the main tank. But, how will I know if she is 100% better? I also noticed that fins have a crimped appearance. Like a crushed flower petal. It just appeared after I added her to the QT. Is this caused by stress?

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Sorry about the absence... I've been working all long night shifts  :no:

 

I don't know how old she is. Maybe between one and two years given her size and wen development, if I had to guess.

 

I was unable to get a picture because by the time I checked her out when I finally got home, the crimps/bruises were gone. Maybe I imagined them being there in the first place but I could have sworn they were there. Weird...

 

Anyways her tail is healing nicely with only a small amount of fuzziness on the edges. There is a small chunk missing but it is barely noticeable.  Do you guys think I should wait it out a few more days?

 

20150521_000018_zpsh8soo5dm.jpg

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Yep it is 0.1% salt.

I guess my cycled media isn't working which is weird because it came directly out of my canister filter on the main tank. I checked the ammonia level this morning and it was at 0.5 ppm. Couldn't do a water change at the moment so I just doubled primed. When I get home tonight I'll do a 100% change.

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You only need to do a dose of prime if ammonia plus nitrites is less than 1.0. That will be ok for 24 hours. Ammonia and nitrites will still show up in the test but won't be toxic to fish.

Edit: do this if you can't do a water change.

Edited by LisaCGold
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Today is day 6 at 0.1% salt. Here's a pic to see how she is progressing. The color of her fin tip is more saturated now but she still has that trailing edge of fuzziness. 

 

20150523_231358_zpsvmiu2jmz.jpg

 

 

You only need to do a dose of prime if ammonia plus nitrites is less than 1.0. That will be ok for 24 hours. Ammonia and nitrites will still show up in the test but won't be toxic to fish.

Edit: do this if you can't do a water change.

 

 

Thanks for reminding me. So many details, yet so little time to learn them all. 

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Today is day 9 in 0.1% salt and I think that she is A.O.K. No more discoloration and the line of white fuzz is gone. It sorta looks like there is some new growth too. Do you think she is ready to come out of QT?

 

20150526_233056_zpsnu9wzkzm.jpg

Edited by Miss_Goldie
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Looks good to me. I'd say she is probably fine. Did you ever find a cause?

 I couldn't wait any longer... she was looking so bored in the QT. 

 

A couple of days before I noticed the signs of fin rot Storm laid eggs. Lily, even though she is a girl (I've actually seen her lay eggs too), would chase Storm and eat the eggs as they were coming out. Kinda a weird visual but Lily was loving it and I think maybe it got a little too rough. I notice shortly after that she has some frayed fins but figured it would heal on its own as long as I keep the water crystal clear. I've kept on schedule with no parameters out  of whack. I guess just because it looks crystal clear and there a no signs of waste doesn't mean that something isn't lurking. Frayed fins were enough for this bacterium to attack. Good thing I caught it early and you guys were here to help right when I needed it most. Thank you all.

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That sounds very, very likely. All you need is a vector for disease to occur, and slight spawning injury would qualify.

I'm glad she is back with her buds and hopefully this is the last we hear of the fin rot :)

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