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Telescope goldfish eye problem


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So I got a new goldfish today that is missing one of its gill plates and one of its eyes is missing but there still seems to be some eye left that moves unlike my other 1 eyed telescope goldfish that has no excess of her eye left. Will this part of the eye fall out or will the fish require surgery or something else??

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Not sure of the answers to your questions but wanted to say that I hope your new goldfish will be okay.  As you know, a one eyed goldfish can lead a good as normal life with just the one eye.  Any photo's of your new girl/boy?

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Not sure of the answers to your questions but wanted to say that I hope your new goldfish will be okay.  As you know, a one eyed goldfish can lead a good as normal life with just the one eye.  Any photo's of your new girl/boy?

I have some but I need to upload them tomorrow as I need to find the lead for the camera to plug into my pc as my pc's sd card slot is jammed against the wall :( Also is three telescope eye goldfish in a 32 gallon tank okay with 90% weekly water changes??

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Hello there! :hi

 

In addition to the pictures, please fill out to the best of your ability the D&D form below. This will help the moderators to better understand the environment in which your fish live so that they can provide the best advice on your questions.

 

We recommend 15-20 gallons per goldfish with at least one 50% water change per week. With three goldfish in a 32 gallon tank, you'll want to do at least two water changes per week to keep their living environment healthy. When you put new water into your tank, you want to make sure to match the temperature and the ph of the tank water so as to minimize stress on the goldfish.

 

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
      • * Water temperature?
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
  • * Any new fish added to the tank?
  • * Any medications added to the tank?
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?
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Ok thank you for the advice and I will fill out the d&d form out when I add the pictures :). Oh and also the reason why I got this new fish is that no one else would probably want it as where its eye was/is what ever left moves as if the eye is still there and the the gill plate is missing meaning you can see inside the fishes gills which people wont think is "cute"

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On top of it not being 'cute', it's also a hazard to the fish's health and you will need to be extra diligent about the water being pristine.

Okay I think I can fit in a 50% water change in halfway through the week and then so my normal 90% water change later on in the week.
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  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank).25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank).25-.5ppm
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)40-80ppm
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)0-.25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)0ppm 
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)5-10ppm
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?API drops
      • * Water temperature?64F-18C
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?32 gallon about a year
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Smart 1000 Underwater Filter, Marina slim s20
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?90% once a week but I will be starting to do a 50% once a week as well
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?I changed 90% 3 days ago 
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?It had 8 until the temperature was okay for pond move and now has 5 fish TL:5.6, 5.8, 5.9, 6.5, 10.8cm
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?Fluval Aqua Plus
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?repashy soilent green or homemade gel food twice a day
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes
  • * Any medications added to the tank?no
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Non that I know of
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?frayed fins on some of the fish oh and the part of the eye left on the new telescope
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?no 

 

I am just about to do another water change on the tank and about to upload pics :)

Edited by goldfishfanforever
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  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank).25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank).25-.5ppm
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)40-80ppm
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)0-.25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)0ppm 
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)5-10ppm
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?API drops
      • * Water temperature?64F-18C
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?32 gallon about a year
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Smart 1000 Underwater Filter, Marina slim s20
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?90% once a week but I will be starting to do a 50% once a week as well
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?I changed 90% 3 days ago 
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?It had 8 until the temperature was okay for pond move and now has 5 fish TL:5.6, 5.8, 5.9, 6.5, 10.8cm
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?Fluval Aqua Plus
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?repashy soilent green or homemade gel food twice a day
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes
  • * Any medications added to the tank?no
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Non that I know of
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?frayed fins on some of the fish oh and the part of the eye left on the new telescope
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?no 

 

I am just about to do another water change on the tank and about to upload pics :)

 

Waiting for pictures....also include picture of your entire tank.

 

More questions to help clarify things:

 

5 fish in a 32 gallon tank is too much, hence the presence of ammonia, nitrite and too much nitrate. We recommend 15-20 gallons per fish. Can you move 3 more of the fish to your pond? I'm sure they will be happier outdoors. In the meantime, more water changes are best.

 

Was your tank cycled prior to the addition of the new fish?

 

Before you added the new fish, did you do any quarantining with the new fish?

 

Can you do some research on your filters to see how many gallons per hour is being filtered? Ideally for goldfish you want 10 times the tank size per hour, so 320 gallons per hour.

 

Thanks ahead of time for answering these questions.

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  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank).25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank).25-.5ppm
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)40-80ppm
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)0-.25ppm
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)0ppm 
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)5-10ppm
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)About 7.4pH
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?API drops
      • * Water temperature?64F-18C
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?32 gallon about a year
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Smart 1000 Underwater Filter, Marina slim s20
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?90% once a week but I will be starting to do a 50% once a week as well
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?I changed 90% 3 days ago 
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?It had 8 until the temperature was okay for pond move and now has 5 fish TL:5.6, 5.8, 5.9, 6.5, 10.8cm
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?Fluval Aqua Plus
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?repashy soilent green or homemade gel food twice a day
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes
  • * Any medications added to the tank?no
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Non that I know of
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?frayed fins on some of the fish oh and the part of the eye left on the new telescope
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?no 

 

I am just about to do another water change on the tank and about to upload pics :)

 

Waiting for pictures....also include picture of your entire tank.Okay I will try and upload them soon :D

 

More questions to help clarify things:

 

5 fish in a 32 gallon tank is too much, hence the presence of ammonia, nitrite and too much nitrate. We recommend 15-20 gallons per fish. Can you move 3 more of the fish to your pond? I'm sure they will be happier outdoors. In the meantime, more water changes are best. I can only move two outside but they are still tiny which means the sturgeon will eat them and the sturgeon will eat any telescope eyes out so the three telescopes will have to stay inside :(

 

Was your tank cycled prior to the addition of the new fish?Yes it was cycled

 

Before you added the new fish, did you do any quarantining with the new fish?I didn't quarantine as I am waiting to buy kusuri wormer to treat them all with

 

Can you do some research on your filters to see how many gallons per hour is being filtered? Ideally for goldfish you want 10 times the tank size per hour, so 320 gallons per hour.The filters do 1000 lph and 600 lph which equals about 420 gph give or take :)

 

Thanks ahead of time for answering these questions.

 

Edited by goldfishfanforever
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Can you get Seachem Prime? This will help to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite in the tank while the beneficial bacteria catches up. You'll also want to add plain salt to the tank at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons (thanks for handling the conversion to metric!) to help the goldfish deal with the nitrites in the tank. Plain salt = salt without any additives whatsoever.

 

Thanks for doing the research on the filters.

 

Edit: I updated the gallons here!

Edited by LisaCGold
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Can you get Seachem Prime? This will help to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite in the tank while the beneficial bacteria catches up. You'll also want to add plain salt to the tank at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 10 gallons (thanks for handling the conversion to metric!) to help the goldfish deal with the nitrites in the tank. Plain salt = salt without any additives whatsoever.

 

Thanks for doing the research on the filters.

 

Edit: I updated the gallons here!

Seachem Prime mayb be difficult to get but I will try and order some after my birthday on the 15th and once I order the kusuri and receive it I will begin with adding salt and the kusuri and I am also saving up for new filters :)

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Once your pictures get loaded, the moderators can check them out. I would wait to hear from them about whether to start the fluke treatment given the condition of the partial eye of one of your tele's.

 

Since the tank cycle has been bumped, it would be good to get a hold of the Seachem Prime before starting treatment. Having it may help to reduce the number of water changes you'll be doing during the treatment thus saving a bit on Kusuri (every time you do a water change to get parameters down and it is time to have kusuri in the water, you'll need to redose the kusuri).

 

Happy Birthday!

Edited by LisaCGold
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Once your pictures get loaded, the moderators can check them out. I would wait to hear from them about whether to start the fluke treatment given the condition of the partial eye of one of your tele's.

 

Since the tank cycle has been bumped, it would be good to get a hold of the Seachem Prime before starting treatment. Having it may help to reduce the number of water changes you'll be doing during the treatment thus saving a bit on Kusuri (every time you do a water change to get parameters down and it is time to have kusuri in the water, you'll need to redose the kusuri).

 

Happy Birthday!

Thanks :) I will be saving my money to go towards a new bit for my computer but my pets come first so I'm sure I can survive a bit longer if I don't have sufficient funds for both and buy the fish stuff first :D
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Are you having problems uploading pictures? Upload them to photobucket.com (you can make a free account) and then post a link here.

I still can't find the cable I will have another look though

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Thank you for the pictures. I can't tell - is there any redness near the partial eye or partial gill plate or any signs of infection? It doesn't look like there is either to me.

 

How are the water parameters?

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Thank you for the pictures. I can't tell - is there any redness near the partial eye or partial gill plate or any signs of infection? It doesn't look like there is either to me.

 

How are the water parameters?

I don't believe there is any redness and I did a 90% water change yesterday but I need a better schedule for water changes but I will figure that out at the weekend
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Thank you for the pictures. I can't tell - is there any redness near the partial eye or partial gill plate or any signs of infection? It doesn't look like there is either to me.

 

How are the water parameters?

I don't believe there is any redness and I did a 90% water change yesterday but I need a better schedule for water changes but I will figure that out at the weekend

 

 

Your question is whether the partial eye needs to be removed or will fall out, correct? Also, whether it is okay to begin the prazi/salt treatment on your new fish, correct?

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Here is what we recommend (a couple of the moderators have reviewed your thread): Your tele with the partial eye and partial gill plate should be put into another tank (minimum 10 gallons) to reduce the chances for infection. With your main tank not being cycled and overstocked, the chances for infection for this tele is high.

 

Since there is the presence of ammonia in your tap water, we suggest at least two 50% water changes per week, maybe three 50% water changes. Seachem Prime or something more similar to that product is important here to help in detoxifying the ammonia and nitrite (I wrote about that in an earlier post).

 

With new fish it is important to quarantine them--do not put them in with your existing fish and do a salt and prazi treatment that lasts up to 4 weeks. Since you've introduced the fish to the main tank, it would still be best to isolate the the fish into another tank and do the quarantine process: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/114492-how-to-quarantine-new-fish/

 

Your main tank would also benefit from the salt and prazi treatment.

 

While the cycle is catching up, you'll want to reduce feeding.

 

We can help guide you through this process of quarantining and getting your cycle caught up. One of the things we need though is your water parameters before each water change.

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