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Ree

Help for my lil fishes please...

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Hi,

 

I noticed about two days ago that one of my comets is sitting near the top of the water (about an inch from the top) and his top fin is clamped down.  He is not gasping, or gulping, but looks more like he is chewing cud or mumbling.  He is eating normally, and can swim around normally when I go near the tank, but when I go away again he just sits near the top again.  Occasionally he will swim around the tank and it is as though he is blind, and cant see, and jumps when he bumps into something, like he has had a fright. 

 
Late tonight another has started showing the fin clamping symptom and they are both sitting in the same area of the tank.  I cannot see any ich, any excessive mucus, or any marks or cottonwool fungi on either of them.  Neither are constipated, or showing signs of swim bladder.  Both are able to swim quite normally to the bottom of the tank, and stay there if they want to.
 
The others are all swimming about quite happily... in fact they look better than I have seen them before, so I don't think it can be the water change I have just done (details below).
 
I should add, they are feed twice a day I alternate between Nutrafin Max flakes which are lowered below the surface of the water, and sera goldy gran soaked.  They consume all the food in less than 2 min, and I make sure I don't feed them more than this, even when they beg! 

 

I have a 100L tank, with hood, overhead lighting, and a overhead sump filter, filtering 1500L/hour... or that's what the info said.  I set it up with scoria gravel bed, under gravel filter (for extra biological filtration and additional aeration), a air pump which has 2 outlets @ 200L/hr each, and some soft silicon ornaments, a large diving helmet for them to hide in (i made sure it had no sharp edges) and a 131mm round air stone.  The tank is not planted. 

 
I let the tank sit for two weeks with no fish for everything to settle prior to adding the fish, with the filter running. 
 
I am unable to source any ammonia, so I have had to do a fish in cycle, so I bought the 6 small comets (less than 2inch each) from the pet shop, as they said they are the hardiest.  I intend to do a slow tank cycling, so that the fish are not tooo stressed, and realise this will mean more frequent water changes.  They have been in the tank just on two weeks now.  I sadly lost one a day after I bought them, so now I have five.  They are not going to live in the tank once it is cycled, because I understand comets grow to big for my tank.  My parents in law have a pond they will be going in.  It is large, has lots of duckweed over it, and lots of places for them to hide from anything interested in them.
 
Just prior to purchasing the comets I found out about the KH and GH.  That did my head in!  But again, it sounded like it might have been the problem with my jumping ph water issues, so I ordered a test kit.  That was all well and good, I have been testing the water, but had no idea of what to do with the results or what they meant.  I found the water sources I had available had the following parameters:
 
Rainwater:
KH less than 10?  it was less than one drop for the API KH test
GH 20?
PH less than 6
 
Townwater:
KH 53?
GH 215?
PH 8.2
 
I realised too from my research in the last week that it is good to keep records of the tank water readings I have taken, so I have started doing that.   Prior to my keeping records, I was testing the water daily to look for ammonia, nitrate or nitrite spikes, and had recorded no readings for any of these.  The tank has had fish in for two weeks.  These are the readings I have recorded.  Prior to this all the readings for ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite were 0ppm and the ph7.4.
 

 

Date water change? KH GH PH Amonia ppm Nitrite ppm Nitrate ppm 3/04/2015 30% WC after tests unknown unknown 7.4 stable 0.5 0 0 5/04/2015 no unknown unknown 7.4 0 0 0 6/04/2015 prior to WC 10 55 7.4 0.1 0 0   after WC 45 179 7.5 0.1 0 0

 

 
It was only after reading some information on KH and GH on your forum that the penny finally clicked.  I had been reading about it on all sorts of websites for days, and it meant absolutely nothing to my poor brain, other than I had a problem with the water. 
 
I now under stood the importance of the GH for goldfish, so today I did a partial water change (30%), and used a larger percentage of town water than I had previously.  This has resulted in the ph sitting a teeny bit higher, at 7.5 instead of 7.4, but the GH is now around 179 and the KH is now about 45.  At least my little fish will be getting some minerals from their water now.  I did it slowly over a couple of hours to  let them adjust to the new water parameters.   I always make sure I use prime water conditioner when I do water changes, let it sit for at least an hour prior to adding it to the tank, and always test the ph and temp before adding it to the tank.
 
I have kept a smaller tank for treatments if required, and I have some medications on hand, they both turn the water blue... malachite?  just a guess from here.  I can check if that is necessary.
 
The only other information I have missed out is that I added 6 small mystery snails to the tank about a week ago.  Oh, and prior to the record taking, I was doing a 30% water change once a week.
 
The water temp is 24-25 degrees Celsius, with no heater on.  We are just coming out of our summer in Australia. 
 
Also the filter media in the overhead filter is filter wool, very fine filter wool, scoria gravel and carbon.  I have been rinsing the filter wools in the water removed from the tank then putting it back in the filter sump.  I have not touched the carbon or the scoria since setting the overhead sump filter up properly for the fish two weeks ago.
 
I am very careful about not letting any chemicals enter the tank, either by air, or on anything touching the water.

 

I don't know what to do.  Can you please let me know if you can help?  Or if I am over reacting?  I realise you are probably on holiday, but any help would be very very very gratefully accepted.  I cannot bare seeing any animals suffer.

 

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Ah the table did not come out properly... DOH!

 

Basically the only ammonia reading I have had is 0.5 on the 3rd, and I did a 30% water change, but other than that the ammonia level has not gone above 0.1 which was today.

 

Don't know if that helps?

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Thanks for the info, Ree.  What kind of test kit do you have?  Pictures or videos of any behaviour would be helpful.  If the fish perked up after a water change, it is a pretty clear indicator that the water chemistry (either ammonia/nitrites or the low rain water ph) is a problem.  

 

To be completely honest, it seems very strange that a tank with 6/5 comets and 6 snails and a weekly 30% water change would not show high ammonia and nitrites.  

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It is an API freshwater test kit.  I was surprised the ammonia levels were not high, and that the nitrites did not show up on the readings yet.  I will do another test in the morning to see if I have done something wrong.  Would it be possible the test kit is out? or more likely me?

 

I will try to figure out how to upload some photos too.  We are on satellite internet so it can be hit and miss with reception.

 

It is 3.40am here, so I will get some sleep, and then I will get back to you in the morning, if that is ok.

 

Thanks so much again!

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oh, the latest water parameters yesterday were:

 

just prior to water change:

ph 7.4

kh 10

gh 55

ammonia 0.1ppm

nitrates 0ppm

nitrites 0ppm

 

then I added more town water to the tank during the water change to up the GH/KH so the parameters after the water change were:

ph 7.5

kh 45

gh 179

ammonia 0ppm

nitrates 0ppm

nitrites 0ppm

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Just tried to take some photos, but they didn't turn out very good, Ill try again when it is light.  :-)

 

Thankyou. :thumbup2:

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Let's try again on the form.  It's really hard for us to find information in paragraph form.  Just quote this post and fill in your answers. Thanks for your patience.

 

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:
Test Results for the Following:
* Ammonia Level(Tank)
* Nitrite Level(Tank)
* Nitrate level(Tank)
* Ammonia Level(Tap)
* Nitrite Level(Tap)
* Nitrate level(Tap)
* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
Other Required Info:
* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
* Water temperature?
* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
* How often do you change the water and how much?
* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
* How many fish in the tank and their size?
* What kind of water additives or conditioners?
* What do you feed your fish and how often?
* Any new fish added to the tank?
* Any medications added to the tank?
* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.
* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?
* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

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Hi Ree,

I wrote about your pH on your other message thread in the welcome forum.  Is the only reason you are not using your town water because you think the pH is too high at 8.2?  As long as the kH and gH are high enough to prevent the pH from falling then a pH of 8.2 is not a problem at all.  If your pH is falling, you can add baking soda to prevent the pH from falling down.  My pond goldfish have a pH of 8.0-8.3 and do great since the pH stays stable and does not go any lower.  I've actually heard that higher pH levels keep the colors of goldfish very bright...as long as it is stable and does not drop.  Your rain water is not good for goldfish at all since it is too low in pH and with the low gH and kH, the pH will drop even lower.

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Ok Sharon, thankyou for the form.  Good news though, all fish are swimming around a lot happier this morning.  Just a little fin clamping now, but swimming with the others, and not running into things. 

 

So maybe the problem was too much rainwater?  Ill still post the form below, just so you can check to see if I am doing anything wrong, or need to change anything  (the form shows the symptoms the two fish had)....

 

Test Results for the Following:
* Ammonia Level(Tank) 0.1ppm
* Nitrite Level(Tank) 0ppm
* Nitrate level(Tank) 0ppm
* Ammonia Level(Tap) 0ppm
* Nitrite Level(Tap) 0ppm
* Nitrate level(Tap) 0ppm
* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.5ph KH45 Gh179 (I don't have a chloramines test kit sorry) I mixed 1/3rd townwater to 2/3 rainwater
* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.2ph KH53 Gh215 (I don't have a chloramines test kit sorry)

* PH level, Rainwater: pH less than 6, KH less than 10, GH less than 20.

 

Other Required Info:
* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API freshwater test kit for high and low level PH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrites.  API test kit for GH & KH
* Water temperature? 24-25 degrees Celsius
* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 100L so is that
* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Not sure of the filter name, it came with the tank, but it is a 1500L/hr filter on an overhead sump, also an underbed gravel filter with scoria gravel media.
* How often do you change the water and how much? 30% change once a week, or more often if ammonia reaches 0.5ppm
* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday, 30% but added more townwater this time

 

just prior to water change:

ph 7.4

kh 10

gh 55

ammonia 0.1ppm

nitrates 0ppm

nitrites 0ppm

 

then I added more town water to the tank during the water change to up the GH/KH so the parameters after the water change were:

ph 7.5

kh 45

gh 179

ammonia 0ppm

nitrates 0ppm

nitrites 0ppm

 

* How many fish in the tank and their size? 5 comets about 2 inches each, 6 mystery snails about half inch each
* What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime water conditioner, nothing else (it says it has an ammonia blocker?)
* What do you feed your fish and how often? Nutrafin Max flakes under water surface, or sera goldy gran pellets soaked, once morning and once night alternating between the two types of food to vary their diet.  They eat all the food I give them within two min.
* Any new fish added to the tank? the mystery snails were added 6 days ago
* Any medications added to the tank? none
* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. None
* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? no signs of ick, worms, fungi, scales protruding, no marks on fish, no excess mucus
* Any unusual behaviour like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? two fish just clamping dorsal fin and anal fins, sitting at the top of the tank about an inch below the water surface, occasionally swimming as though they are blind (running into things then getting a fright), moving mouth like chewing cud or mumbling, not gulping for air or yawning, no labouring fins, eating fine, can still swim fine, showing now signs of swimbladder sinking/floating or lilting, comes to the front of the tank when I get close, but just sits there the rest of the time below the surface of the water. First fish started showing symptoms 3 days ago, second started last night. Remaining 3 fish showing no symptoms.

 

Hope this makes it easier to read?

 

Thanks so much!

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re tank size... forgot to finish the sentence... oooops...

 

its a 100L tank, or 26 USgal or 22 imperial gal... I am not sure which gal you use... 

 

its been set up for 4 weeks, with fish added two weeks ago, and snails one week ago.

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I have just tried to upload pics I took last night, but our internet is too slow.  We are on satellite internet, and it seems that if a cloud blows in the way the signal drops.... very frustrating!   I will try again later to see if it will work.

 

Thanks again!

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I also find it hard to believe those tank parameters with that many fish in a 26 gallon . . . Are you sure you're doing the tests correctly? Waiting 5 minutes before taking the reading? :idont

And BTW I wouldn't bother testing for nitrate until a day or two or three :rofl after you start seeing nitrite. :)

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Hi Fantailfan1,

 

Thanks for the tip about the nitrates, I would have been wasting lots of testing solution!  Great save.  I have just redone the test ammonia and nitrite tests.  It is exactly 24hours after the last test was done.  I made sure to use a timer this time, and my father in law is a panel beater and used to matching paint colours perfectly, so I enlisted his eyes in case I was reading the chart/tests wrong... after 5 min, these were the results:

 

PH 7.5 - stable

Ammonia - 0.25ppm.  It was only just dark enough to call it this. Risen from 0.1ppm yesterday

Nitrite - 0ppm stable

 

Does this sound consistent with the figures I had yesterday?  I am sure I timed yesterdays too, but who knows, I might have read the watch wrong.  I even waited for 10 min after the test results to make sure the ammonia test didn't darken, but it didn't.

 

I have also been rinsing the test tubes out twice with the test water prior to testing.  Would that make a difference? 

 

Anyhow, I am going to get my husband to take most of the fish to my parents in laws pond, they will be very happy and well looked after there.  Lots of wrigglers, duck weed, and hidie-holes!

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Just a thought... I am using seachem prime water conditioner... it says on the label...

 

Prime® is the complete and concentrated conditioner for both fresh and salt water. Prime® removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime® converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tank’s biofilter. Prime® may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime® detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing the biofilter to more efficiently remove them.

 

Would that be why my ammonia/nitrite readings are so low?

 

here is the link to the product

 

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

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The effect of Prime use on the cycling process is a bit hard for me to get my head around (I've read a bit of the literature in the past).  Prime will not stop your tank from cycling, and is necessary because you have fish, but there is a chance it will slow the process (as will large water changes).  There is some suggestion that ph levels have an effect on cycling times as well.

 

The dance you are doing here is that the fish need good water to thrive, but the good bacteria need ammonia to develop.  That means that the ammonia levels in your tank need to be high enough to feed bacteria, but not so high as to kill the fish.  It does sound as if your ammonia levels are rising in the tank (good for cycling, disturbing for fish).  I don't have any experience with fish-in cycling, but perhaps those with more experience could advise on how high the ammonia should go before a water change.

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That's ok.  I was expecting a slow cycling.  I don't have to get the fish I want right away, so I will wait till it is all nice and ready and cosy for them.  Until then my little comets will keep the tank going. 

 

If no-one can tell me I think I remember seeing a link in a forum on this site, or maybe an article about fish-in cycling... I might have to hunt that up again to check the ammonia levels needed.  I will keep an eye on my little fish, and if she is showing signs of stress ill do a water change, even if the ammonia hasn't gotten that high.

 

Thanks for all your help motherredcap!  Very much appreciated!

 

Maybe me doing this :fishtank every ten min to see if they are ok is stressing them out.  :teehee

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The effect of Prime use on the cycling process is a bit hard for me to get my head around (I've read a bit of the literature in the past).  Prime will not stop your tank from cycling, and is necessary because you have fish, but there is a chance it will slow the process (as will large water changes).  There is some suggestion that ph levels have an effect on cycling times as well.

 

The dance you are doing here is that the fish need good water to thrive, but the good bacteria need ammonia to develop.  That means that the ammonia levels in your tank need to be high enough to feed bacteria, but not so high as to kill the fish.  It does sound as if your ammonia levels are rising in the tank (good for cycling, disturbing for fish).  I don't have any experience with fish-in cycling, but perhaps those with more experience could advise on how high the ammonia should go before a water change.

Thanks for giving me an opportunity to get on my soapbox.  I'm really bothered by the widespread myth that more ammonia in the tank means a faster cycle, since this leads to a lot of fish abuse.

 

Your tank and my tank/ponds have an ammonia reading of zero.  Yet they have a population of AOB/AOA adequate to keep all of our fish healthy.  The fact that your ammonia reads zero means that the ammonia oxidizers were able to eat all of it.

 

I did fishless cycling once, preparing quarantine tanks.  It took the typical two months.  Every other time I have cycled a tank/pond, I have used the same basic procedure -- severely understock and do enough water changes to keep ammonia or nitrite to no more than 0.25 ppm. Cycling has never taken more than a month, with three weeks the norm.  With large ponds, this is the way cycling is done, only without the big water changes.  For example, just put one fish in a pond designed to handle 10 fish, and then add a fish a week for the next three weeks, and two fish a week after that.  

 

The microbiological explanation is this:  When cycling, you start out with a tiny population of nitrifying  bacteria/archaea.  These are capable of using only a tiny amount of ammonia.  If they get that ammonia, they will fatten up and then begin dividing.  Once they start dividing, they will double in number in roughly a day.  However, both ammonia oxidation and nitrite oxidation are substrate-inhibited reactions, that is, an excess of ammonia inhibits ammonia oxidation and an excess of nitrite inhibits nitrite oxidation.  If I read the graphs in that paper correctly, an inhibiting level of ammonia is a lot lower than what is typically used for fishless cycling.

 

Your fish produce ammonia, the ammonia oxidizing bacteria/archaea eat it.  If there is a ammonia reading, even 0.25 ppm, the AOBs/AOAs were not able to eat it all.  They are overfed.   The ammonia reading is like leftovers from a delicious meal -- no more room.  As long as there is a nitrite reading, the fish and ammonia oxidizers are overfeeding the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria.  There is nothing to be gained by feeding them more than they can eat, and it is harmful to your fish.  Once the ammonia/nitrite is not reading at all the day after a water change, you can decrease the size of the change.  

 

Prime has an ingredient that binds ammonia.  The bound ammonia is non-toxic, but will feed the AOB/AOA, and will read on the ammonia test.  Your low levels of ammonia and nitrite on the API test are real, and they are good.

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The effect of Prime use on the cycling process is a bit hard for me to get my head around (I've read a bit of the literature in the past).  Prime will not stop your tank from cycling, and is necessary because you have fish, but there is a chance it will slow the process (as will large water changes).  There is some suggestion that ph levels have an effect on cycling times as well.

 

The dance you are doing here is that the fish need good water to thrive, but the good bacteria need ammonia to develop.  That means that the ammonia levels in your tank need to be high enough to feed bacteria, but not so high as to kill the fish.  It does sound as if your ammonia levels are rising in the tank (good for cycling, disturbing for fish).  I don't have any experience with fish-in cycling, but perhaps those with more experience could advise on how high the ammonia should go before a water change.

Thanks for giving me an opportunity to get on my soapbox.  I'm really bothered by the widespread myth that more ammonia in the tank means a faster cycle, since this leads to a lot of fish abuse.

 

Your tank and my tank/ponds have an ammonia reading of zero.  Yet they have a population of AOB/AOA adequate to keep all of our fish healthy.  The fact that your ammonia reads zero means that the ammonia oxidizers were able to eat all of it.

 

I did fishless cycling once, preparing quarantine tanks.  It took the typical two months.  Every other time I have cycled a tank/pond, I have used the same basic procedure -- severely understock and do enough water changes to keep ammonia or nitrite to no more than 0.25 ppm. Cycling has never taken more than a month, with three weeks the norm.  With large ponds, this is the way cycling is done, only without the big water changes.  For example, just put one fish in a pond designed to handle 10 fish, and then add a fish a week for the next three weeks, and two fish a week after that.  

 

The microbiological explanation is this:  When cycling, you start out with a tiny population of nitrifying  bacteria/archaea.  These are capable of using only a tiny amount of ammonia.  If they get that ammonia, they will fatten up and then begin dividing.  Once they start dividing, they will double in number in roughly a day.  However, both ammonia oxidation and nitrite oxidation are substrate-inhibited reactions, that is, an excess of ammonia inhibits ammonia oxidation and an excess of nitrite inhibits nitrite oxidation.  If I read the graphs in that paper correctly, an inhibiting level of ammonia is a lot lower than what is typically used for fishless cycling.

 

Your fish produce ammonia, the ammonia oxidizing bacteria/archaea eat it.  If there is a ammonia reading, even 0.25 ppm, the AOBs/AOAs were not able to eat it all.  They are overfed.   The ammonia reading is like leftovers from a delicious meal -- no more room.  As long as there is a nitrite reading, the fish and ammonia oxidizers are overfeeding the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria.  There is nothing to be gained by feeding them more than they can eat, and it is harmful to your fish.  Once the ammonia/nitrite is not reading at all the day after a water change, you can decrease the size of the change.  

 

Prime has an ingredient that binds ammonia.  The bound ammonia is non-toxic, but will feed the AOB/AOA, and will read on the ammonia test.  Your low levels of ammonia and nitrite on the API test are real, and they are good.

 

 

Reading this is an "AHHHHHHH, so that's it!" moment for me.... Thankyou so very very much!  I will just keep doing the water change when I reach 0.25ppm ammonia.  I was really worried I was testing incorrectly.  Thankyou for the reassurance. :thumbup2:

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The effect of Prime use on the cycling process is a bit hard for me to get my head around (I've read a bit of the literature in the past).  Prime will not stop your tank from cycling, and is necessary because you have fish, but there is a chance it will slow the process (as will large water changes).  There is some suggestion that ph levels have an effect on cycling times as well.

 

The dance you are doing here is that the fish need good water to thrive, but the good bacteria need ammonia to develop.  That means that the ammonia levels in your tank need to be high enough to feed bacteria, but not so high as to kill the fish.  It does sound as if your ammonia levels are rising in the tank (good for cycling, disturbing for fish).  I don't have any experience with fish-in cycling, but perhaps those with more experience could advise on how high the ammonia should go before a water change.

Thanks for giving me an opportunity to get on my soapbox.  I'm really bothered by the widespread myth that more ammonia in the tank means a faster cycle, since this leads to a lot of fish abuse.

 

Your tank and my tank/ponds have an ammonia reading of zero.  Yet they have a population of AOB/AOA adequate to keep all of our fish healthy.  The fact that your ammonia reads zero means that the ammonia oxidizers were able to eat all of it.

 

I did fishless cycling once, preparing quarantine tanks.  It took the typical two months.  Every other time I have cycled a tank/pond, I have used the same basic procedure -- severely understock and do enough water changes to keep ammonia or nitrite to no more than 0.25 ppm. Cycling has never taken more than a month, with three weeks the norm.  With large ponds, this is the way cycling is done, only without the big water changes.  For example, just put one fish in a pond designed to handle 10 fish, and then add a fish a week for the next three weeks, and two fish a week after that.  

 

The microbiological explanation is this:  When cycling, you start out with a tiny population of nitrifying  bacteria/archaea.  These are capable of using only a tiny amount of ammonia.  If they get that ammonia, they will fatten up and then begin dividing.  Once they start dividing, they will double in number in roughly a day.  However, both ammonia oxidation and nitrite oxidation are substrate-inhibited reactions, that is, an excess of ammonia inhibits ammonia oxidation and an excess of nitrite inhibits nitrite oxidation.  If I read the graphs in that paper correctly, an inhibiting level of ammonia is a lot lower than what is typically used for fishless cycling.

 

Your fish produce ammonia, the ammonia oxidizing bacteria/archaea eat it.  If there is a ammonia reading, even 0.25 ppm, the AOBs/AOAs were not able to eat it all.  They are overfed.   The ammonia reading is like leftovers from a delicious meal -- no more room.  As long as there is a nitrite reading, the fish and ammonia oxidizers are overfeeding the nitrite-oxidizing bacteria.  There is nothing to be gained by feeding them more than they can eat, and it is harmful to your fish.  Once the ammonia/nitrite is not reading at all the day after a water change, you can decrease the size of the change.  

 

Prime has an ingredient that binds ammonia.  The bound ammonia is non-toxic, but will feed the AOB/AOA, and will read on the ammonia test.  Your low levels of ammonia and nitrite on the API test are real, and they are good.

 

 

I was just re-reading to try to get my head around all this wonderful information.  My head is done in again! 

 

Do the bacteria oxidise the ammonia producing nitrites, and then in turn the other bacteria oxidise the nitrites producing nitrates?  Is that how it works?

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Thanks for giving me an opportunity to get on my soapbox.

 

 

 

:tomuch:

 

Prime will detoxify 1 ppm (total) ammonia + nitrite.  If you're getting 0.25 ammonia, I would simply dose Prime and test again in 24 hours.  :D

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Thanks for giving me an opportunity to get on my soapbox.

 

 

 

:tomuch:

 

Prime will detoxify 1 ppm (total) ammonia + nitrite.  If you're getting 0.25 ammonia, I would simply dose Prime and test again in 24 hours.  :D

 

 

Brilliant!  Thankyou, I will try that!

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I was just re-reading to try to get my head around all this wonderful information.  My head is done in again! 

 

Do the bacteria oxidise the ammonia producing nitrites, and then in turn the other bacteria oxidise the nitrites producing nitrates?  Is that how it works?

 

 Yes, that's exactly it.

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I was just re-reading to try to get my head around all this wonderful information.  My head is done in again! 

 

Do the bacteria oxidise the ammonia producing nitrites, and then in turn the other bacteria oxidise the nitrites producing nitrates?  Is that how it works?

 

 Yes, that's exactly it.

 

 

Ahhhhhh :idea:

 Thankyou for taking the time to make that all make sense for me!  Very much appreciated. :D

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Thanks for clarifying, Sharon.  What do you make of the discussions concerning Prime's effect on the development of the bacteria?

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Thanks for clarifying, Sharon.  What do you make of the discussions concerning Prime's effect on the development of the bacteria?

 

I would be interested in know this too!  Will it affect the bacteria too much?

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