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bugger whitespot


Jim_D

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The new Oranda's have been (and are) going really well.

 

Noticed on three of them this morning the unmistakable signs of White Spot :(

 

I've had (like any fish keeper) outbreaks many times, but I've never used a .3% salt solution in the tank water to eradicate them as my other tanks have all been heavily planted and a very small fish bio load.

 

So I currently have put in half the salt (slowly over a few hours) and will put the other half in tomorrow.

 

I just new that something would come along (or develop) from getting the fish from three different sources, but all on the same day. Though when you have to travel long distances to obtain them, these are the things one must do.

 

Anyway....fingers crossed everything goes ok. I am going to bring the temp up from 25c (77F) to around 30c (86F) to speed the life cycle on a little.

 

The air temps at the moment are presently 38c (100F).

 

I hope I've done the right thing getting these Oranda's ..... I hope they don't turn into 8 little stress bunnies for me! Their certainly a lot more worry than 8 Neon Tetras or other clone tropicals (not that they haven't added to my grey hairs over the years either :) ).

 

 

Wish me luck!

 

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:hi Hello Jim,

 

Sounds like you are treating for ich.

 

Did you want advice or just good luck from us? We can do both!

 

If advice, then can you fill out the D&D form? A link to this form is below my signature. Also, a video and/or picture would be good.

 

If just good luck then good luck to you and good bye ich.

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I think the 0.3% (1 tablespoon per gallon) salt is a good idea if they do indeed have Ich, but I would only raise the temp to 78-80 for Goldfish.  That is plenty warm enough to speed along the Ich lifecycle.

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You've caught it super-early by being so observant, so it should resolve quickly for you. Sounds like other than the white spots on the fish, they're not acting sick (lethargic, flashing, fin clamping, bottom sitting)? If that's the case, you'll have them cured in no time at all. :)

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:hi Hello Jim,

 

Sounds like you are treating for ich.

 

Did you want advice or just good luck from us? We can do both!

 

If advice, then can you fill out the D&D form? A link to this form is below my signature. Also, a video and/or picture would be good.

 

If just good luck then good luck to you and good bye ich.

 

Hello Lisa, hopefully its just good luck.

 

I think the 0.3% (1 tablespoon per gallon) salt is a good idea if they do indeed have Ich, but I would only raise the temp to 78-80 for Goldfish.  That is plenty warm enough to speed along the Ich lifecycle.

 

Thanks Jared

 

You've caught it super-early by being so observant, so it should resolve quickly for you. Sounds like other than the white spots on the fish, they're not acting sick (lethargic, flashing, fin clamping, bottom sitting)? If that's the case, you'll have them cured in no time at all. :)

 

No, no flashing, scraping, clamping, floating or bottom sitting. The only thing besides the white spots is that I just noticed one of them flick their pelvis fin in and out a few times.

 

They are acting 100% normal and as greedy as ever, though I am lightly feeding them.

 

All water parems are perfect. It looked like it was a lot of salt that I was adding and I'm only half way, but I did dip my finger in the tank for a quick taste and it's not salty tasting in the slightest.

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Here's some photo's I just took 5 minutes ago.

 

16574704437_0f974f37d3_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

16781982935_b627515db3_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

16595843039_0e259e2d6c_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

16780893832_9daf996b9b_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

16780893832_9daf996b9b_b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

16594609650_a9b046a32c_b.jpg

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  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)Zero

       

    • * Nitrite Level(Tank)Zero

       

    • * Nitrate level(Tank) 5.0
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)Zero

       

    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)Zero

       

    • * Nitrate level(Tap) Zero
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.8 - 8.0

       

    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.8 - 8.0
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master
      • * Water temperature? 25c
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? Tank is fully mature with a light sand skim bottom
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Four (4) Eheim 2217
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? 80%-90% once a week
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 80% today
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 8 around 3"
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Hikari Lion Head, Earthworms, Wrigglers, FBW
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? All 8
  • * Any medications added to the tank? Started to add salt today
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. ZERO
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? White Spots
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Acting entirely normal but I have noticed one flick it's pelvic fin a few times.
Edited by Jim_D
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Tank 120 Gallons, but treating it as 110 gallons.

 

I have put in 55 tablespoons of salt over a 5 hour period mixing it a jar of tank water and slowly pouring it in and then mixing more.

 

I plan to put the remaining 55 tablespoons of salt in over another 5 hour period tomorrow.

 

 

 

Does all this sound OK so far?

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About to start to put the second lot of salt in to bring it up to .3%

 

 

 

How long does it take to show a marked difference in seeing less Ich spots?

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You have 78 goldfish.  How long have you had them?  Are they in ponds?

 

 

Those 78 (a mixture of Koi and Goldfish) are in a pond.

 

I have 8 new Oranda's (the ones that I am having a problem with) in a 125gallon tank.

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Thanks Jared.

 

The tank temp has now reached 80F

 

 

Nearly finished bringing the salt up to 0.3% and the fish seem to be ok. Never having used salt before, it seemed like a LOT of salt that's for sure and it was a little nerve wracking doing it. But from reading lots on here....it seems old hat to most of you guys and gals.

 

 

Oh boy.....will I be glad when I know this has worked ok.

 

 

I'll check ammonia and nitrite in an hour and make sure that the filters haven't taken a hit with the salt.

 

Feeding lightly is that a good idea whilst treating with salt?

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Hi Jim,

 

Here is the answer to your PM:

 

From the pictures, these spots look like those caused by Ich rather than flukes.  I would keep the salt concentration at 0.3% for 2 weeks without interruption. At that point, I would reduce the salt concentration to 0.1% and do 4 rounds of Prazi for Flukes (which are likely to be present as well)   :)

 

The salt will help to offset Nitrite toxicity should that become evident.  You can feed them normally while salting :)

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Thank you so much Jared. It's so very much appreciated.

 

The salt has now been at the desired level of 0.3% for an hour but that's for 110 gallons. Should I have gone higher? I have the water capacity in the four Eheim 2217 canisters and the water is about 1 and a 1/4" from the top. So I sort of guestimated that the tank being a 120g is only holding 110g......Would the salt be enough?

 

I tested the water params and all is good.

 

 

Sorry for all the questions :( But thanks so much for the help :)

Edited by Jim_D
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I understand how you're feeling, Jim. In the old days (I've been keeping goldfish a long time), we just squeezed some (very harsh) ich meds into the tank and called it good.

I still remember the first time I salted for ich. It just felt so wrong.. These were freshwater fish, for crying out loud! And it *does* feel like a lot of salt when you're doing it initially.

But you'll be amazed at how effective it is, and how harmless to the fish. And as I said before, because you caught this early (those pics show that it's not bad, at all), it should clear up in no time at all. Keep salting for the full two weeks, as Jared said, because the ich capsules fall off the fish and then hatch, and you want to kill it in all stages of its life cycle.

But your lovely new orandas will be perfect very soon. :)

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Thank you very much RD, very thoughtful of you to say those things. Its never fun going through any type of fish disease and a kind word like yours and from other members goes a long way to making it that much easier.

 

I've been there with the dangerous dyes and other harsh chemicals and they are that....harsh. With my planted tanks I was able to raise the temps alone high enough that the WS died out the rare times that I got it from either not QT or not QT long enough.

 

But salt for FW  for treating WS is totally and utterly new to me. When my wife kept count of the tablespoons and I saw how much it was adding up to. I had to check and re-check that I hadn't mucked something up reading what I had to do. I couldn't imagine that much salt going into my tank.

 

But from memory, salt water contains around 18 tablespoons of salt per gallon, so 1 tablespoon of salt doesn't sound so much compared to seawater. I actually tasted it (I'll probably catch white spot :) ) and it didn't even really taste salty at all.

 

Once again....a big thanks for the support :)

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Here's a video of them just taken a little while ago and uploaded to Youtube. You can see the spots on some of their tails now and again in the video. They are all acting perfect and are hungry and coming up for food. They have quickly learnt where they get their meals from :)

 

Golly....I know I keep saying it.....but I'm (and my wife) are so endeared to these little darlings.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1FaHDbWxCk&feature=youtu.be

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A QUESTION PLEASE:

 

How do I do a 50% water change when the salt is at 0.3% whilst treating for Ich?

 

If I take out 50% of the tank water and replace it with freshwater of the same temp and then re-add the salt (i.e salt in the tank) will that be an osmotic shock to the fish and the filters?

 

Do I need to add back the replacement water already at 0.3% salt?

Edited by Jim
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