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Starting to notice my water looking a little green. Just wondering how often and what percentage I should do partial water changes and would you guys recommend putting the water conditioner in the water before putting it in the tank or does it not really matter too much

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Could you please fill this out? It'll help determine why the water is looking green, because we'll know what is going on in the tank. 

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank)
    • * Nitrate level(Tank)
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
      • * Water temperature?
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
      • * How often do you change the water and how much?
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
  • * Any new fish added to the tank?
  • * Any medications added to the tank?
Edited by ChelseaM
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  • Regular Member

Could you please fill this out? It'll help determine why the water is looking green, because we'll know what is going on in the tank.

  • Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
  • * Nitrite Level(Tank)
  • * Nitrate level(Tank)
  • * Ammonia Level(Tap)
  • * Nitrite Level(Tap)
  • * Nitrate level(Tap)
  • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • Other Required Info:

  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
  • * Water temperature?
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
  • * How often do you change the water and how much?

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
  • * Any new fish added to the tank?
  • * Any medications added to the tank?
Okay that's a pretty hefty list I need to go buy a test kit I guess I've been looking at getting the api master test kit
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Ill answer as much as I can right now though.

** water temperature is 65

** 55 gallon tank been running for a little over 2 weeks after I did a 100% water change

** fluval aquaclear 70 I have two of them HOB

** I don't really keep a certain schedule for changing the water usually just do it once the water looks bad enough :/

**Changed the water about 17 days ago and it was 100%

** I have 3 fish in the tank one is pretty big maybe about 5-6 inches other two are fancies and maybe like 2-3 inches long

**I use api stress coat water conditioner

**usually feed my fish about twice a day mix between flakes, omega one sinking pellets, and freeze dried blood worms every now and then

**no new fish

**no medications

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Could you please fill this out? It'll help determine why the water is looking green, because we'll know what is going on in the tank.

  • Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level(Tank)
  • * Nitrite Level(Tank)
  • * Nitrate level(Tank)
  • * Ammonia Level(Tap)
  • * Nitrite Level(Tap)
  • * Nitrate level(Tap)
  • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • Other Required Info:

  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?
  • * Water temperature?
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?
  • * How often do you change the water and how much?

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size?
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners?
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often?
  • * Any new fish added to the tank?
  • * Any medications added to the tank?
Ill get the rest to you once I buy a test kit
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Alright. Go ahead and pick up the API Freshwater Master Kit. Drop tests are the most trustworthy and actually are cheaper overall. 

 

From what you have said so far, I can give a few pointers as to what could be the problem already. But having the parameters will help us come to a solution.

 

** I don't really keep a certain schedule for changing the water usually just do it once the water looks bad enough :/
**Changed the water about 17 days ago and it was 100%
**I use api stress coat water conditioner
**usually feed my fish about twice a day mix between flakes, omega one sinking pellets, and freeze dried blood worms every now and then
 
Your water change schedule is not adequate for keeping goldfish. You should be aiming for weekly water changes of greater than 50% with a fully stocked tank. This is going to help the fish to be healthy, as well as remove Nitrates and dissolved waste from the water. Goldfish are extremely messy fish. Not doing weekly water changes and vacuuming the substrate can lead to buildup of bacteria in the tank that can cause disease, buildup of Nitrate to toxic levels, and depletion of minerals in the water that the fish use. Once you get your test kit, you'll be able to see the Nitrate buildup. Nitrate can only be removed through water changes, so they're extra important there. If you haven't, I'd pick up a Python water changer so that the water changes are easier. I know how annoying it can be to have to use buckets to fill a 55 gallon tank. The Python helps immensely to make this easier.
 
When you go pick up the test kit, please also grab a bottle of Seachem Prime to use as your water conditioner. This is one of the best conditioners on the market and will help with ammonia and Nitrite in the tank should there be an issue with that as well. It's also the most recommended conditioner on Koko's because of this.
 
Another thing I can point out is that flakes and freeze-dried foods are not good for goldfish. Flakes are generally made up of fillers, as well as being a floating food. Freeze-dried foods are also a floating food, and even when soaked can cause issues because they're filled with air still. Floating foods cause swim bladder issues with aquarium-kept fancy goldfish. The sinking pellets are the only thing that's safe for them on that list. Try to get ahold of some frozen bloodworms instead of the freeze-dried ones. That way you're giving them that nutrition without causing the swim bladder problems.
 
 
 

 

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Prime is also one of the most economical!

One capful treats 55 gallons vs others which require one capful for 10 gallons. :)

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Alright. Go ahead and pick up the API Freshwater Master Kit. Drop tests are the most trustworthy and actually are cheaper overall.

From what you have said so far, I can give a few pointers as to what could be the problem already. But having the parameters will help us come to a solution.

** I don't really keep a certain schedule for changing the water usually just do it once the water looks bad enough :/

**Changed the water about 17 days ago and it was 100%

**I use api stress coat water conditioner

**usually feed my fish about twice a day mix between flakes, omega one sinking pellets, and freeze dried blood worms every now and then

Your water change schedule is not adequate for keeping goldfish. You should be aiming for weekly water changes of greater than 50% with a fully stocked tank. This is going to help the fish to be healthy, as well as remove Nitrates and dissolved waste from the water. Goldfish are extremely messy fish. Not doing weekly water changes and vacuuming the substrate can lead to buildup of bacteria in the tank that can cause disease, buildup of Nitrate to toxic levels, and depletion of minerals in the water that the fish use. Once you get your test kit, you'll be able to see the Nitrate buildup. Nitrate can only be removed through water changes, so they're extra important there. If you haven't, I'd pick up a Python water changer so that the water changes are easier. I know how annoying it can be to have to use buckets to fill a 55 gallon tank. The Python helps immensely to make this easier.

When you go pick up the test kit, please also grab a bottle of Seachem Prime to use as your water conditioner. This is one of the best conditioners on the market and will help with ammonia and Nitrite in the tank should there be an issue with that as well. It's also the most recommended conditioner on Koko's because of this.

Another thing I can point out is that flakes and freeze-dried foods are not good for goldfish. Flakes are generally made up of fillers, as well as being a floating food. Freeze-dried foods are also a floating food, and even when soaked can cause issues because they're filled with air still. Floating foods cause swim bladder issues with aquarium-kept fancy goldfish. The sinking pellets are the only thing that's safe for them on that list. Try to get ahold of some frozen bloodworms instead of the freeze-dried ones. That way you're giving them that nutrition without causing the swim bladder problems.

Okay thanks the python definitely seems like it would make things easier so I guess you add the conditioner one the water is in the tank should I put my fish in a separate container while I do the water change?
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Okay thanks the python definitely seems like it would make things easier so I guess you add the conditioner one the water is in the tank should I put my fish in a separate container while I do the water change?

 

No, there's no need to move the fish.

 

You can add the conditioner (for the full amount of the tank's volume) right before you add the water back in. This is how most people do it. Prime works quickly and well, so it's no problem. 

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Okay thanks the python definitely seems like it would make things easier so I guess you add the conditioner one the water is in the tank should I put my fish in a separate container while I do the water change?

No, there's no need to move the fish.

You can add the conditioner (for the full amount of the tank's volume) right before you add the water back in. This is how most people do it. Prime works quickly and well, so it's no problem.

Got test kit python and seachem coming in the mail you want I should give you the water test results before or after the water change?
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I'd like the results before, as well as after if that is possible. We also need the tap water results.

Sorry I have been taking so long. Been working crazy hours. But python seachem and and API GH and KH test kit will be here Monday and API master freshwater test kit on Wednesday and ill let you guys know the results!
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I added a UV sterilizer to my 55 gallon goldfish tank last week- it was $40 on D Fostersmith- I can't believe how much clearer the water is.  

This is not a replacement for water changes- but does combat green water keeps water crystal clear.

 

On a side note someone mentioned using Prime with large water changes.  This is important as it will also neutralize any ammonia released in the dechlorination process.

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AND THE RESULTS ARE IN!

DRUM ROLL PLEASE!

Tank water before water change

Ammonia:0.25ppm

Nitrite:0ppm

Nitrate:15ppm

KH:107.4ppm

GH:161.1ppm

Chloramine:Test didn't have Chloramine option

pH:7.7

Tank water after 50% water change

Ammonia:0.25ppm

Nitrite:0ppm

Nitrate:8ppm

KH:107.4ppm

GH:143.2ppm

pH:7.6

Tap water

Ammonia:0.25ppm

Nitrite:0ppm

Nitrate:0ppm

KH:107.4ppm

GH:125.3

pH:7.6

Any other questions let me know!

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The tank looks pretty good! :) 

 

Does this tank sit in front of or in direct line of a window? 

 

I'd continue with weekly 50% or greater water changes. Now that you've got the Python, this should be really easy. Remember to add the prime at a full 55 gallon dose before you refill. 

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The tank looks pretty good! :)

Does this tank sit in front of or in direct line of a window?

I'd continue with weekly 50% or greater water changes. Now that you've got the Python, this should be really easy. Remember to add the prime at a full 55 gallon dose before you refill.

No not really it might get some light through the door that's near to it. What kind of schedule should I keep the lights on I usually try to have them 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Do you think the type of lightbulb could have an affect? And yeah I was pretty surprised to see my results I figured I was gonna have high ammonia levels or something.
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The tank looks pretty good! :)

Does this tank sit in front of or in direct line of a window?

I'd continue with weekly 50% or greater water changes. Now that you've got the Python, this should be really easy. Remember to add the prime at a full 55 gallon dose before you refill.

No not really it might get some light through the door that's near to it. What kind of schedule should I keep the lights on I usually try to have them 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Do you think the type of lightbulb could have an affect? And yeah I was pretty surprised to see my results I figured I was gonna have high ammonia levels or something.

 

Eh. I wouldn't immediately expect high ammonia, since you probably have a nice little army of nitrifiers in your tank to take care of it. I was more expecting high nitrates.

 

Unless you have plants or the room they're in is dark, the lights are basically only for you. So if you have to have them on for an extended period, just do 8-9 hours on. 

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The tank looks pretty good! :)

Does this tank sit in front of or in direct line of a window?

I'd continue with weekly 50% or greater water changes. Now that you've got the Python, this should be really easy. Remember to add the prime at a full 55 gallon dose before you refill.

No not really it might get some light through the door that's near to it. What kind of schedule should I keep the lights on I usually try to have them 12 hours on and 12 hours off. Do you think the type of lightbulb could have an affect? And yeah I was pretty surprised to see my results I figured I was gonna have high ammonia levels or something.

Eh. I wouldn't immediately expect high ammonia, since you probably have a nice little army of nitrifiers in your tank to take care of it. I was more expecting high nitrates.

Unless you have plants or the room they're in is dark, the lights are basically only for you. So if you have to have them on for an extended period, just do 8-9 hours on.

Okay thanks for all the help I'm glad to know the water quality is good just have an algae problem I guess. I might look into a UV sterilizer
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Okay thanks for all the help I'm glad to know the water quality is good just have an algae problem I guess. I might look into a UV sterilizer

 

Honestly, I would not recommend a UV sterilizer as a first option. There has been an amount of controversy regarding if a sterilizer is healthy for use in aquariums, and it isn't a cure-all. I am also not sure if your water problem has to do with algae, so I'd suggest just doing weekly maintenance and seeing if that clears it up. It is not necessary to spend a ton of money on something when you don't know what the problem is.

Edited by ChelseaM
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OP, I have just come out of a green water stage myself, so I know how aggravating it is!  I was also starting to feel like UV might be my only option, but mine has cleared up without it.

 

Are you using any fine floss in your AC70s?  Something like this, not necessarily this brand

http://www.amazon.com/Acurel-LLC-Reducing-Aquarium-Accessory/dp/B004MNNAC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426359320&sr=8-1&keywords=acurel+pads

 

The reason I ask is I had some stored away in my cabinet, but not being used in my filters - I have no idea why, I just spaced it out I guess.  But anyway, after I put some of that in, on top of the sponge, with the bio-media on top of that, things started changing for me.  I could rinse those pads every day - I was shocked HOW dirty they got.

 

I actually did other things too, so if you say you have floss already I might have another idea to try - but this was inexpensive and I'm curious if our situations are similar at all. :)

Edited by SweetMamaKaty
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OP, I have just come out of a green water stage myself, so I know how aggravating it is! I was also starting to feel like UV might be my only option, but mine has cleared up without it.

Are you using any fine floss in your AC70s? Something like this, not necessarily this brand

http://www.amazon.com/Acurel-LLC-Reducing-Aquarium-Accessory/dp/B004MNNAC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426359320&sr=8-1&keywords=acurel+pads

The reason I ask is I had some stored away in my cabinet, but not being used in my filters - I have no idea why, I just spaced it out I guess. But anyway, after I put some of that in, on top of the sponge, with the bio-media on top of that, things started changing for me. I could rinse those pads every day - I was shocked HOW dirty they got.

I actually did other things too, so if you say you have floss already I might have another idea to try - but this was inexpensive and I'm curious if our situations are similar at all. :)

No all I have in my filters are the sponge Carbon bag and the biofilter. So maybe I'll hit up petco and try finding one of those
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OP, I have just come out of a green water stage myself, so I know how aggravating it is! I was also starting to feel like UV might be my only option, but mine has cleared up without it.

Are you using any fine floss in your AC70s? Something like this, not necessarily this brand

http://www.amazon.com/Acurel-LLC-Reducing-Aquarium-Accessory/dp/B004MNNAC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426359320&sr=8-1&keywords=acurel+pads

The reason I ask is I had some stored away in my cabinet, but not being used in my filters - I have no idea why, I just spaced it out I guess. But anyway, after I put some of that in, on top of the sponge, with the bio-media on top of that, things started changing for me. I could rinse those pads every day - I was shocked HOW dirty they got.

I actually did other things too, so if you say you have floss already I might have another idea to try - but this was inexpensive and I'm curious if our situations are similar at all. :)

No all I have in my filters are the sponge Carbon bag and the biofilter. So maybe I'll hit up petco and try finding one of those

 

Cool!  Just don't give up, I think it's fixable.

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