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Oranda issues.. Newbie doing everything wrong..! :(

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I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
      • * Water temperature? 78-80
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
  • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
  • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
  • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
  • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

 

 

 

Hello everyone!..

 

Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

 

I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)

They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

 

After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

 

Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

 

Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming..

 

After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

 

The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

 

First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is..

 

The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one.

The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too..

 

Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

 

I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet

 

It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

 

So....

 

- Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ????

 

- What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ???

 

- Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ??

 

-Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ???


 

I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

 

Thanks a bunch!!!

 

 

(Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

 

 

My other kids!!

20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

 

Mardo with white pimples on head

20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

 

Thomas with white pimples on head

20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

 

Are we sick??

20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

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I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
      • * Water temperature? 78-80
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
  • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
  • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
  • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
  • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

 

 

 

Hello everyone!..

 

Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

 

I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)Actually, they are not completely wrong. You are doing what is called a fish in cycle in which yes, a fish is needed to start the cycle. However, there is the fishless cycle where you buy pure ammonia and cycle the tank yourself.

They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

 

After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

 

Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

 

Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming.. Feeding 2-3 times a day if small meals is perfect :) Overfeeding is possible, but it was most likely you weren't. If you saw him pooping then he was not constipated. If he wasn't pooping, then yes, peas or red leaf lettuce and even blood worms work great as a "laxative" to clear them out.

 

After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

 

The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

 

First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is.. The pimples you see is just wen growth and is perfectly fine :). The reason the new orandas were probably gasping was because they were put directly into .3% salt instead of gradually being introduced to it in .1% intervals. 

 

The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one. To me, this sounds like irritation due to flukes. 

The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too.. This could be due to water quality, but a mod will be able to answer this better.

 

Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

 

I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet Today (the 24th) is actually the last day of the Petco Dollar per gallon sale. You can get a 55 gallon (perfect home for 3 goldfish) for 55 dollars! You will need to get another filter to get to the correct gallons per hour. On a 55, you will want at least 550 gph worth of flow. I would highly recommend an Aquaclear (Fluval) 70 or 110 to get you to the right amount of filtration if you were to upgrade. As of now, you are fine with 350 gallons per hour on the 20 gallon. I know a 20 gallon will use less meds/salt, but with 3 in a 20, it's going to be hard to QT them. I think even though it will cost more, it will be easier to QT in a 55.

 

It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

When you upgrade the tank to the right size (a 55) water changes will be much easier on you. Once the tank is fully cycled, you will be wanting to do a minimal 50% weekly. Do you buffer your tank with baking soda for the pH or is it increasing as the water de-gases?

So....

 

- Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ???? I think with the pH differences, a 25% (maybe a 30%) twice a day will be best for now unless you can age 20 gallons of water to do a 100% water change so your pH doesn't fluctuate too much.

 

- What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ??? It can be due to irritation like I said above. Would you be able to pick up some PraziPro, please? A mod will help you with dosing the prazi and making a schedule.

 

- Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ?? They are just wen growth. Nothing to be alarmed of unless there is a red patch on the wen.

 

-Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ??? For now, I would keep the salt in the tank. If you are positive that they do not have ick, then heat is not needed that high. I would slowly lower it (2 degrees every couple hours so not to stress them) until around 70-72 degrees again. If there is ich, leave it at 80.

 

I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

 

Thanks a bunch!!!

 

 

(Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

 

 

My other kids!!

20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

 

Mardo with white pimples on head

20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

 

Thomas with white pimples on head

20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

 

Are we sick??

20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

Your orandas are gorgeous :wub::heart I hope they feel better soon. :hug just take deep breaths. We'll help you get through the cycle and QT process :) When dosing with the prime, I would suggest double dosing it.

Edited by Mikey

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I edited the temperature part a little so please make sure to take a look at that part again :)

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I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
      • * Water temperature? 78-80
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
  • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
  • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
  • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
  • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

 

 

 

Hello everyone!..

 

Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

 

I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)Actually, they are not completely wrong. You are doing what is called a fish in cycle in which yes, a fish is needed to start the cycle. However, there is the fishless cycle where you buy pure ammonia and cycle the tank yourself.

They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

 

After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

 

Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

 

Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming.. Feeding 2-3 times a day if small meals is perfect :) Overfeeding is possible, but it was most likely you weren't. If you saw him pooping then he was not constipated. If he wasn't pooping, then yes, peas or red leaf lettuce and even blood worms work great as a "laxative" to clear them out.

 

After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

 

The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

 

First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is.. The pimples you see is just wen growth and is perfectly fine :). The reason the new orandas were probably gasping was because they were put directly into .3% salt instead of gradually being introduced to it in .1% intervals. 

 

The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one. To me, this sounds like irritation due to flukes. 

The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too.. This could be due to water quality, but a mod will be able to answer this better.

 

Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

 

I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet Today (the 24th) is actually the last day of the Petco Dollar per gallon sale. You can get a 55 gallon (perfect home for 3 goldfish) for 55 dollars! You will need to get another filter to get to the correct gallons per hour. On a 55, you will want at least 550 gph worth of flow. I would highly recommend an Aquaclear (Fluval) 70 or 110 to get you to the right amount of filtration if you were to upgrade. As of now, you are fine with 350 gallons per hour on the 20 gallon. I know a 20 gallon will use less meds/salt, but with 3 in a 20, it's going to be hard to QT them. I think even though it will cost more, it will be easier to QT in a 55.

 

It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

When you upgrade the tank to the right size (a 55) water changes will be much easier on you. Once the tank is fully cycled, you will be wanting to do a minimal 50% weekly. Do you buffer your tank with baking soda for the pH or is it increasing as the water de-gases?

So....

 

- Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ???? I think with the pH differences, a 25% (maybe a 30%) twice a day will be best for now unless you can age 20 gallons of water to do a 100% water change so your pH doesn't fluctuate too much.

 

- What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ??? It can be due to irritation like I said above. Would you be able to pick up some PraziPro, please? A mod will help you with dosing the prazi and making a schedule.

 

- Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ?? They are just wen growth. Nothing to be alarmed of unless there is a red patch on the wen.

 

-Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ??? For now, I would keep the salt in the tank. If you are positive that they do not have ick, then heat is not needed that high. I would slowly lower it (2 degrees every couple hours so not to stress them) until around 70-72 degrees again. If there is ich, leave it at 80.

 

I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

 

Thanks a bunch!!!

 

 

(Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

 

 

My other kids!!

20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

 

Mardo with white pimples on head

20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

 

Thomas with white pimples on head

20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

 

Are we sick??

20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

Your orandas are gorgeous :wub::heart I hope they feel better soon. :hug just take deep breaths. We'll help you get through the cycle and QT process :) When dosing with the prime, I would suggest double dosing it.

 

Thanks Mikey..!!

I don't use any buffer (or baking soda) in the water.. Today is the first time I checked the PH of the tap water so Im impressed that it has changed drastically from 7.4 to 8.8.. How can I fix that to a more comfortable PH for the orandas ???

 

If Mardo (red cap) ends up "being irritaded due to flukes".. how do I fix that ??

 

By "aging" the water you mean to leave it out from tap for 24hr (w thermometer in to match tank temp) then change it ??.. without Prime or Stability?

 

Should I try to "soak in garlic" the food instead of PraziPro (which I don't even know what it is :hummm )??

 

How long should I wait with water at 80 degrees & salt to determinate if ich is still in the tank ??

 

Also.. lets say there's not more ich.. Should I leave the salt there ? if so, for how long ??

 

Believe me.. I do want to upgrade but I do want a 75G (to have ranchu, a panda moor, a pom pom & my other 3) however.. I went last month to the pet store to get a betta for my kid and came back home with a bunch of stuff to set up this 20G.. My wife tripped..

I'll prefer not to get a 55G today & buy all new filtration.. then in a couple of months buy a 75G, stand, lighting, canisters..etc.. (I cannot justify the $$ spent)

However if you guys think the're NOT gonna make it for a couple of months an live comfortable in this 20G tank I will buy the 55G tomorrow and add the other Penguin 150 that came with the initial kit..

 

I have other questions about quality food, keeping colors etc.. but I guess first thing first.. Let's get cycled!!

 

By the way.. How much longer do you think it will take to finish the cycle??  (knowing my conditions)

 

 

 

Thanks again!

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I posted this in the "NEW members" page but I was told to look for help here..

 

  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) - between .50% & 1.0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) - 0%
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Nitrate level(Tap) - 0%
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: between 8.4 & 8.8 - KH: 300 - GH: between 25 & 75
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) - Ph: 7.4
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? - API master kit (drops) & I borrowed a strip to test the KH and GH for today
      • * Water temperature? 78-80
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20G - 17 days since filtration media was added
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Marineland Pinguin 350, I don't use cartridges. I replaced w/ blue pads & Eheim Substrat Pro
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? daily, 25%
  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? today, 25%
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 3 Orandas, 2 inch (w/o tail)
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime & Stability (daily)
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? When I had one fish, three times a day.. Now with three only once
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? yes, two orandas since last wednesday (1/21/15) at noon when water just got .3% salt
  • * Any medications added to the tank? API aquarium salt (.3%)
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Tue Jan 20 @ noon .1% salt - Tue Jan 20 @ midnight .1% salt - Wed Jan 21 @ noon .1% salt.. Two water changes of 25% with salt added @ .3%
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Red/Black oranda got white sparkles on tail & head
  • New orandas (calico & red cap) have white pimples on wen
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Red/black oranda stays (more often) motionless at bottom lately than before (when water had no salt & 70 degrees)
  • Two new orandas (calico & red cap) spend most of the time at surface. Calico not eating much & red cap not eating (at all) what I gave him
  • New calico swims funny, like he doesn't have enough strength to pass by the water coming from the filter.. he gets pushed away

 

 

 

Hello everyone!..

 

Im "the new" in the hobby making a lot of mistakes!..

Since kid I always wanted a goldfish so now that I have kids a found that "as excuse" to get myself one..

 

I followed the "reknown" small local petstore directions and introduced (after 2-3 days of water running alone) one red & black 2 inch oranda (Buddy).. (They said that I needed a fish to start the cycle.. Wrong!!)Actually, they are not completely wrong. You are doing what is called a fish in cycle in which yes, a fish is needed to start the cycle. However, there is the fishless cycle where you buy pure ammonia and cycle the tank yourself.

They also said that I could Introduce another one in about 2 weeks.. wrong too!

 

After I brought Buddy home (20G tank) I started to watch videos, read blogs and ask questions.. so I find out about the nitrogen cycle, overfeeding, water changes, tank size.. etc.

 

Now that I knew I had a fish in an uncycle tank (w/ .25ppm - .50ppm ammonia) I wanted to do what's possible to keep him alive so I started to do 25% daily water changes (which by the way, my local store said NOT to do because I wasn't allowing the ammonia to get to it's peak)..

I followed kokos site advise anyway & "Seachem Prime & Stabilily" directions & keep doing water changes...

 

Buddy didn't show any "heavy" stress from the ammonia (that I can recall).. I was feeding him/her small amounts 3 times a day (Omega One sinking, Fozen bloodworms, Peas & Spinach) & he/she loved it!!..

But I started reading somewhere that says that I was overfeeding him/her & maybe he/she was constipaded so I started to give him/her more peas.. obviously he pooped a lot (& long ones too) but nothing alarming.. Feeding 2-3 times a day if small meals is perfect :) Overfeeding is possible, but it was most likely you weren't. If you saw him pooping then he was not constipated. If he wasn't pooping, then yes, peas or red leaf lettuce and even blood worms work great as a "laxative" to clear them out.

 

After a couple of days I noticed a couple of white sparkles on his/her tail but it didn't bother me thninking that it was some dirt from the tank.. the next day he had more sparkles (head & other side) so I decided to do some reasearch..

Finding out that it was "ich" I decided to follow kokos site directions.. .1% salt.. 12 hours later another .1% then another .1% twelve hours later.. however, I had ammonia so I didn't (& don't) know what the effect of them combined (ammonia + salt) will be on the fish.

 

The very same day I added the last .1% of salt (two weeks of Buddy alone by then) I decided to make things worse by adding another 2 orandas (Mardo & Thomas) as the local store guy said it will be "ok".. besides, (since) the main 20G tank had one fish being treated at .3% salt, I thought I could use my main tank as quarantine and have them all 3 being "cured" for whatever they came with from the petstore.

 

First the new two orandas spent the entire day at the top of the tank (trying to get oxygen I think).. My ammonia leves went from .25-.5% to 1.0% but no change in my Nitrites (0%, which means my cycle isnt done, I think).. Then the two new orandas started to show white pimples in their wen (not salt looking, ich,  but more like a pimple).. & as today I don't know what it is.. The pimples you see is just wen growth and is perfectly fine :). The reason the new orandas were probably gasping was because they were put directly into .3% salt instead of gradually being introduced to it in .1% intervals. 

 

The red cap (Mardo) is not eating, at least not when Im there..  I tried Omega pellets & he/she spits them out..I tried spinach & they don't even bother to pass by it.. I tried peas and he/she runs away when they're coming down from surface.. Im really worried about this one. To me, this sounds like irritation due to flukes. 

The calico (Thomas) is only eating what's "only" in front of him/her..  he/she doesn't chase food at all.. also the swiming is a little strange.. it seems not to have the strength to pass by the filter current without being pushed away.. that also worries me too.. This could be due to water quality, but a mod will be able to answer this better.

 

Buddy (1st fish) seem the same.. with the exeption that he is not as excited to see me that he/she was when alone. Buddy spends some time now at the bottom motionless which i don't know if is stress related or if it could be something else.

 

I know having 3 goldfish in a 20G tank is not ideal.. I want to learn but every site says different things (about feeding, water changes, tank size etc).. I want to become a knowledgeable keeper & If everything goes well.. I'm planning to move them to a 60-75G tank in a few months.. I can't justify the expense just yet Today (the 24th) is actually the last day of the Petco Dollar per gallon sale. You can get a 55 gallon (perfect home for 3 goldfish) for 55 dollars! You will need to get another filter to get to the correct gallons per hour. On a 55, you will want at least 550 gph worth of flow. I would highly recommend an Aquaclear (Fluval) 70 or 110 to get you to the right amount of filtration if you were to upgrade. As of now, you are fine with 350 gallons per hour on the 20 gallon. I know a 20 gallon will use less meds/salt, but with 3 in a 20, it's going to be hard to QT them. I think even though it will cost more, it will be easier to QT in a 55.

 

It is also stressful for me having to spend more time with the fish (or learning about them) that w/ my kids.. Im taking a lot of time away from work to come home & feed them, do water changes, clean extra poop or food and look at them for signs of sickness..

I want them to be happy but I don't how much longer am I gonna be able to do this without actually affecting my work..

When you upgrade the tank to the right size (a 55) water changes will be much easier on you. Once the tank is fully cycled, you will be wanting to do a minimal 50% weekly. Do you buffer your tank with baking soda for the pH or is it increasing as the water de-gases?

So....

 

- Should I keep doing 25% water changes daily to maintain the ammonia as lowest as possible or it needs to get to a high level in it's own to then decrease ?.. Or should I do 25% morning & 25% evening (or 50% morning)  ???? I think with the pH differences, a 25% (maybe a 30%) twice a day will be best for now unless you can age 20 gallons of water to do a 100% water change so your pH doesn't fluctuate too much.

 

- What can I do to make the newer fish to eat??.. Or is it just part of the stressfull stage ??? It can be due to irritation like I said above. Would you be able to pick up some PraziPro, please? A mod will help you with dosing the prazi and making a schedule.

 

- Is the white pimples something I should worry about or should I let it go in it's own ?? They are just wen growth. Nothing to be alarmed of unless there is a red patch on the wen.

 

-Some of you say to keep the salt & 80 degrees for a while, some of you say that ammonia w/ salt will burn the gills & some of you say that if ammonia is present in the tank, the salt won't work.. PLEASE HELP

Is it smart to keep them at 80 degrees and .3% salt or should I do water changes to get rid of the salt and still keep them at 80F.. Or just go back to normal (No salt, 70 degrees) ??? For now, I would keep the salt in the tank. If you are positive that they do not have ick, then heat is not needed that high. I would slowly lower it (2 degrees every couple hours so not to stress them) until around 70-72 degrees again. If there is ich, leave it at 80.

 

I'm sorry for the thousand questions.. I just don't want them to die 

 

Thanks a bunch!!!

 

 

(Ah.. & sorry about the spelling)

 

 

My other kids!!

20150123_1140210_zps19n7itlq.jpg

 

Mardo with white pimples on head

20150123_112136_zps8k4anjqd.jpg

 

Thomas with white pimples on head

20150123_112713_zpscqh4d3qw.jpg

 

Are we sick??

20150123_112325_zpsydi3bfjj.jpg

Your orandas are gorgeous :wub::heart I hope they feel better soon. :hug just take deep breaths. We'll help you get through the cycle and QT process :) When dosing with the prime, I would suggest double dosing it.

 

Thanks Mikey..!!

I don't use any buffer (or baking soda) in the water.. Today is the first time I checked the PH of the tap water so Im impressed that it has changed drastically from 7.4 to 8.8.. How can I fix that to a more comfortable PH for the orandas ???

 

If Mardo (red cap) ends up "being irritaded due to flukes".. how do I fix that ?? The Prazi is a medication that kills flukes :) The mods will help with a prazi schedule

 

By "aging" the water you mean to leave it out from tap for 24hr (w thermometer in to match tank temp) then change it ??.. without Prime or Stability? Leaving it sitting out for 24 hours will allow it to de-gas so it matches the pH in the tank. Yes, definitely add prime once the water is added to the tank and make sure to match the temperature too.

 

Should I try to "soak in garlic" the food instead of PraziPro (which I don't even know what it is :hummm )?? If the mouth/gills are irritated, no amount of garlic will entice the fish to eat.

 

How long should I wait with water at 80 degrees & salt to determinate if ich is still in the tank ??

 

Also.. lets say there's not more ich.. Should I leave the salt there ? if so, for how long ?? I read your new member post and saw that Lisa (FantailFan1) who is a mod said to leave it at 80, so let's leave it at 80 until she or another mod says otherwise :)

 

Believe me.. I do want to upgrade but I do want a 75G (to have ranchu, a panda moor, a pom pom & my other 3) however.. I went last month to the pet store to get a betta for my kid and came back home with a bunch of stuff to set up this 20G.. My wife tripped..

I'll prefer not to get a 55G today & buy all new filtration.. then in a couple of months buy a 75G, stand, lighting, canisters..etc.. (I cannot justify the $$ spent)

However if you guys think the're NOT gonna make it for a couple of months an live comfortable in this 20G tank I will buy the 55G tomorrow and add the other Penguin 150 that came with the initial kit.. It's going to be lots of water changes. The thing with the 55 is that with more water, the ammonia will take longer to build up letting you get away with maybe a 50% every day to every other day depending on ammonia levels

 

I have other questions about quality food, keeping colors etc.. but I guess first thing first.. Let's get cycled!! Like brands to recommend? I personally feed Saki-Hikari Purple, Hikari lionhead, New Life Spectrum Thera a and algaemax, and super color omega one small sinking chiclid pellets. These are the brands most people use. But, let's wait until they are all better to go more in depth with food. But, the ones I listed are all good quality. Because you are cycling, a light feeding once a day will suffice until you are cycled.

 

By the way.. How much longer do you think it will take to finish the cycle??  (knowing my conditions) I don't see any nitrites :( so it is unfortunate, but it seems you have quite a few weeks to go. :(

 

 

 

Thanks again!

 

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Your orandas are gorgeous! :thud

You've come to the right place for help :) Best of luck to you and your new goldies. 

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Can you get some closer up shots of those pimples?  When you look at them, do they just seem like white heads, or are they reddish in, or around, the white?  They do appear to be normal wen growth, but the fish refusing to eat makes me want to take a closer look.

 

A fish-in cycle is labor intensive, but as long as you keep up with the w/c's, it can be done.  I've been there, and so have many of us on the forum.  When you start seeing the nitrites spike, you'll know that it's the beginning of the end. :)

 

I do believe that a fluke treatment might be useful here, but I'll have to defer to someone more familiar with the available meds in the area.

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Do you know anyone else with a fish tank? If you do, you could get some old filter media from them to help your cycle move a little faster. Good luck and remember it's not a fast process, but will be a rewarding process. If your kids are old enough, it can be a great thing to let them learn all of this as you go. Goldfish are great and you have some beautiful ones.

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Your fish are beautiful :)

I cycled with two fish-in a 20g and I have to admit it was a pain in the butt and mine took 12 weeks for whatever reason. Most do not take that long. I have to age my water as my ph is similar to yours. That means putting it in a bin with an airstone and/or heater depending on your tank temp for 24 hours and than the ph will come up. Your natural ph is fine for goldfish. Whats more important is not having big changes like from the 8.4-8.8 in the tank and than adding 7.4 water greater than 25 -30%.

For cycling with fish in the general rule of thumb is:

If ammonia and nitrite are less than 1.0 together double dose prime and wait 24 hours and test again.

If ammonia and nitrite are greater than 1.0 do a large water change, normally 50% or more (in your case you will want to age that water or some people here use baking soda to buffer it before the ph comes up on its own). Double dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

With 3 fish in that 20g you will probably end up doing large water changes every day to every other day with the amount of ammonia they produce. Time and effort wise for you it would be good to either get that bigger tank or is it possible to return one of the fish since you just got them a few days ago. I know you may not want to do that and its only a suggestion.

Also you mentioned adding three more fish into a 75g. That is too many and your fish will suffer. We recommend 15-20g per fish and the 75 realistically holds only around 70g, We recommend 2 fish for a 40. Think of it this way, 4 or 5 fish max. in a 75g will allow you to do large weekly water changes instead of 2x a week and will give you some breathing room. Its hard to imagine but your fish can easily grow to 8 inches a piece. The advice you are given in fish stores is really more for tropical fish than goldfish.

A mod will answer any questions you have related to sickness.

Good luck :)

Edited by CindiL

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Can you get some closer up shots of those pimples?  When you look at them, do they just seem like white heads, or are they reddish in, or around, the white?  They do appear to be normal wen growth, but the fish refusing to eat makes me want to take a closer look.

 

A fish-in cycle is labor intensive, but as long as you keep up with the w/c's, it can be done.  I've been there, and so have many of us on the forum.  When you start seeing the nitrites spike, you'll know that it's the beginning of the end. :)

 

I do believe that a fluke treatment might be useful here, but I'll have to defer to someone more familiar with the available meds in the area.

Hi..!! and thank you in advance for all your help..

 

With the news that the calico is now eating better.. He still spend a lot of time at surface but he's doing good with the omega pellets, peas & frozen bloodworms.. the one that looks like a picky eater is the red cap.. He still spitting out the pellets & the peas but really liked the bloodworms

I don't know if some garlic will do the trick.. Should I try it ??

 

Also, as you can see in the pictures.. I have a layer of foam at the edge of the tank.. Is this normal or too much protein/waste ??

What can I do to fix it?

 

I just did another 25% WC, so 25% in the morning and 25% right now (12:00am).. My ammonia was .50 before the water change

 

Question.. Once the cycle is done.. is the 20G gonna be able to handle the ammonia of these 3 babies (for a couple of months) or am I gonna have to keep doing daily WC ??

 

Another question.. Should I continue with the 80 degrees & .3% salt ?

 

Last Question (for today :) ).. Red/black (my first oranda) is used to 3 meals a day & now with the new friends he's only eating once.. I see him at bottom motionless a few times a day.. Have any idea what can that be?

 

 

Thanks a bunch..!!

 

Foamy

20150124_103240_zpsmojkr8yv.jpg

 

Thomas close up #1

20150124_103411_zpswhop3wgq.jpg

 

Thomas close up #2

20150124_224323_zpshxblcad5.jpg

 

Thomas close up #3

20150124_224437_zpsrkhfw188.jpg

 

Mardo close up #1

20150124_225005_zpsss1ycjup.jpg

 

Mardo close up #1

20150124_224827_zpskea08aki.jpg

 

Mardo close up #3

20150124_224907_zpsprd9pfn5.jpg

 

Mardo close up #4

20150124_225000_zpso8cr1po2.jpg

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Your fish are beautiful :)

I cycled with two fish-in a 20g and I have to admit it was a pain in the butt and mine took 12 weeks for whatever reason. Most do not take that long. I have to age my water as my ph is similar to yours. That means putting it in a bin with an airstone and/or heater depending on your tank temp for 24 hours and than the ph will come up. Your natural ph is fine for goldfish. Whats more important is not having big changes like from the 8.4-8.8 in the tank and than adding 7.4 water greater than 25 -30%.

For cycling with fish in the general rule of thumb is:

If ammonia and nitrite are less than 1.0 together double dose prime and wait 24 hours and test again.

If ammonia and nitrite are greater than 1.0 do a large water change, normally 50% or more (in your case you will want to age that water or some people here use baking soda to buffer it before the ph comes up on its own). Double dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

With 3 fish in that 20g you will probably end up doing large water changes every day to every other day with the amount of ammonia they produce. Time and effort wise for you it would be good to either get that bigger tank or is it possible to return one of the fish since you just got them a few days ago. I know you may not want to do that and its only a suggestion.

Also you mentioned adding three more fish into a 75g. That is too many and your fish will suffer. We recommend 15-20g per fish and the 75 realistically holds only around 70g, We recommend 2 fish for a 40. Think of it this way, 4 or 5 fish max. in a 75g will allow you to do large weekly water changes instead of 2x a week and will give you some breathing room. Its hard to imagine but your fish can easily grow to 8 inches a piece. The advice you are given in fish stores is really more for tropical fish than goldfish.

A mod will answer any questions you have related to sickness.

Good luck :)

Thank you for all the feedback!!

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Do you know anyone else with a fish tank? If you do, you could get some old filter media from them to help your cycle move a little faster. Good luck and remember it's not a fast process, but will be a rewarding process. If your kids are old enough, it can be a great thing to let them learn all of this as you go. Goldfish are great and you have some beautiful ones.

Thanks for all the pointers.. Unfortunately I don't know anyone that has fish .. :no:

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I agree!  These are beautiful fish!

 

I have a redcap and Mardo's white spots do not look much different from ones Newton gets. As Yafa said, though the pellet spitting indicates a possible fluke infestation and prazi pro is recommended.  The calicos wen issue looks a bit different, but it is hard to tell if it is normal wen growth or something else.  My instant is that it is growth.  

 

20 gallons is not going to handle the ammonia for very long.  If you want to wait to buy a bigger tank, you might consider putting one of the fish in a 60 litre sterlite plastic container to take the edge off. Fish can do well in a number of different containers (kids pools, old bathtubs with the plug siliconed) if you are just waiting for the $$ for a couple of months.  I think you are right to go straight to the 75 gallon.  

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After morning feeding.. This is what Mardo & Buddy do.. :(

 

Actually Buddy (red/black) swims all over when he sees me but as soon as he realize that Im not feeding he goes back to Mardo..

 

Is this normal?? (sympathy, perhaps)

 

Im starting to do 25% W/C morning and 25% evening.. Is the PH variation from tap (7.4) to existing water tank (8.4 - 8.8) stressing them ???

 

 

 

ARE WE SICK ????

20150125_104104_zps4ijvfc14.jpg

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A 25% change should be fine.  What is the ph of the tank after you change the 25%?  Have you tested it?  I'm assuming you are matching temperature too.

Edited by CindiL

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Hello Cindi.. I just did a 25% water change..

My Ph after WC, shows between 8.2 & 8.4 (ammonia between .25 & .50) I match temperature which right now is at 76 degrees

 

No one has said if I should keep the salt or not so I decided not to add any to the 5G I just took out. I've also reduced the temp from 80 to 78.. & now to 76

(If you guys think I need to get back to 80 degrees & .3% salt please let me know)

 

I gave them some peas ealier which I soaked in garlic.. The red cap ate some but after a while of having it in the mouth he spitted out

There's a couple of people that are telling me to use Prazi pro on Mardo but I don't know how to get a hold of a moderator to give me more instructions.. Can you tell em about the usage of this medicine on my red cap??

 

 

 

Is this (below) a proof of a BAD fish keeper or they're just sleeping ??  :(

 

20150125_202223_zps0xe0ufnb.jpg

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Hello Cindi.. I just did a 25% water change..

My Ph after WC, shows between 8.2 & 8.4 (ammonia between .25 & .50) I match temperature which right now is at 76 degrees

please read my posts from above about the temp. Yes, keep it at 80. Was the pH 8.6-8.8 before the water change?

No one has said if I should keep the salt or not so I decided not to add any to the 5G I just took out. I've also reduced the temp from 80 to 78.. & now to 76

(If you guys think I need to get back to 80 degrees & .3% salt please let me know) yes, please keep the salt at .3%

I gave them some peas ealier which I soaked in garlic.. The red cap ate some but after a while of having it in the mouth he spitted out

There's a couple of people that are telling me to use Prazi pro on Mardo but I don't know how to get a hold of a moderator to give me more instructions.. Can you tell em about the usage of this medicine on my red cap?? there is a schedule for prazipro, but because you are cycling, the mods will probably have to tweak it a bit to fit the needs of the tank in it's cycling process. Here is a link to where you can purchase the prazi. I personally would recommend the 16 ounce becausee of how often you are going to be changing the water.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DVVHWO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PuCXub145ZZ53

Is this (below) a proof of a BAD fish keeper or they're just sleeping ?? :(

20150125_202223_zps0xe0ufnb.jpg

don't beat yourself up :hug you have been doing a great job so far. :) Edited by Mikey

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Thanks Mikey.. I will raise the water 2 degrees right now and another 2-4 degrees in the morning (and add the 15 teaspoons of salt)

 

Yes.. the Ph was between 8.6-8.8 before wc

 

Im gonna order the prazi today as well.. hopefully it doesn't take forever to get here

 

Ahh.. I forgot to mention.. I promise I had all the intentions to got to petco and get the 55G but I worked tilI 10pm yesterday..

However, I have a 10G that I purchased for a betta (which I never got) and also a Marineland Pinguin 150.. Should I transfer any of the fish to the 10G temporary until cycled (and to help w ammonia)??.... If so, which one ??..

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Thanks Mikey.. I will raise the water 2 degrees right now and another 2-4 degrees in the morning (and add the 15 teaspoons of salt)

Yes.. the Ph was between 8.6-8.8 before wc

Im gonna order the prazi today as well.. hopefully it doesn't take forever to get here

Ahh.. I forgot to mention.. I promise I had all the intentions to got to petco and get the 55G but I worked tilI 10pm yesterday..

However, I have a 10G that I purchased for a betta (which I never got) and also a Marineland Pinguin 150.. Should I transfer any of the fish to the 10G temporary until cycled (and to help w ammonia)??.... If so, which one ??..

your welcome :)

Okay, so the 25% twice daily seem to be going well with the pH differences.

Unfortunately, petcos dollar per gallon sale is over now :(. I'm not sure how much it will cost without the sale, but it's not going to be 55 dollars. :(

In my opinion, I think it would be harder on you to set up another tank. With double dosing prime and two 25% water changes daily on the 20, it seems to be working okay.

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Mikey.. something I for got to mentioned.. Earlier when I did a water change I noticed that non of the rocks are slimy anymore which they were before.. Is that ok ?

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Mikey.. something I for got to mentioned.. Earlier when I did a water change I noticed that non of the rocks are slimy anymore which they were before.. Is that ok ?

where did you get them from? I don't think it's an issue. It sounds like it was biofilm on them.

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Mardo clearly doesn't feel well, but the wen white stuff may not be part of the problem.  When you get the prazi, just dose per the instructions on the bottle and we will help you from there.  Some fish are more susceptible to water quality issues than others and Mardo may be reacting to the build up of ammonia.  The food spitting is a classic flukes sign.

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Mikey.. something I for got to mentioned.. Earlier when I did a water change I noticed that non of the rocks are slimy anymore which they were before.. Is that ok ?

where did you get them from? I don't think it's an issue. It sounds like it was biofilm on them.

 

I got them from Home Depot.. They were super dirty with some black waxy stuff on them..

I boiled them for 30 minutes then rinsed them with Prime water..

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I ordered the Prazi.. It should be here on Wednesday

 

Im at 80 degrees and .3% salt..

 

Something I noticed this morning when feeding is that now Buddy has the white pimples on the head.. :(

What are the odds that all of them have their wen growing right now??.. Im mean Buddy didn't show any pimples until the new ones came..

I really hope they don't get any worse :no: 

 

20150126_100707_zps8dmpiu9m.jpg

 

20150126_094445_zpsieab1v24.jpg

 

20150125_231442_zpsd91xjonq.jpg

 

20150125_231641_zpst76oukvq.jpg

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These spots are very normal looking for a wenned goldfish.  I would continue on with your plans to prazi them, and do nothing differently.  The spots, so long as they are not red around the edges, will go away on their own. :)

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