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misssmountain

White markings on Oranda's tail have me stumped...

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Okay, here it is. I'm heading off to bed now. I'll check in the morning to see what questions you have.

 

In order to lower the fluke load to a tolerable level, this is what we recommend.

 

Day 1 – big water change (>=75%), put double dose prazi and 0.3% salt in main tank (see below on how to put the 0.3% salt in the tank), and salt dip the two fish who are showing symptoms (see salt dip information below).

Day 2 – just monitor water and fish

Day 3 – salt dip the two fish

Day 4 – just monitor water and fish

Day 5 – big water change (>=75%), replace salt to 0.3%, NO prazi

Day 6-7 – just monitor water and fish

Day 8 – big water change (>=50%), replace salt to 0.3% salt, add double dose of prazi, and salt dip the two fish

Days 7-11 – just monitor water and fish

Day 12 – 100% water change, let us know how the fish are doing (we may recommend for you to continue with prazi and salt)

 

To do the 0.3% salt in the main tank, but all the salt into the end of some pantyhose and hang it in the tank. The salt will slowly dissolve and will not shock the two fish who are not being given a salt dip.

 

Here is the salt dip information (you will do a total of three salt dips for the two fish showing symptoms):

 

SALT DIP

1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (30 grams/Liter, or 113.7g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.

3. make sure you have some sort of timer

4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.

5. start timer.

6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.

7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.

8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.

9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

 

It is a bit weird to watch a goldfish in a salt dip for the first time. In step #6, I had to give my goldfish a gentle pat a couple of times when he went on his side before he could put himself upright.

 

Once the salt and prazi treatment is done, we recommend you up your water changes since the tank is overstocked by one fish. Do two larger water changes per week (>50%).

 

I'm going to bed as well, but will look over all of this in the morning!

 

Just curious about the overstocking? 4 fish in a 60 gallon is 15 gallons per fish, which I thought was okay? Or is 20 gallons per fish better? 

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This is slightly off topic but still relevant. Do you see that your white orandas eyes are larger than the eyes of the other fish, by any chance?

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Okay, here it is. I'm heading off to bed now. I'll check in the morning to see what questions you have.

 

In order to lower the fluke load to a tolerable level, this is what we recommend.

 

Day 1 – big water change (>=75%), put double dose prazi and 0.3% salt in main tank (see below on how to put the 0.3% salt in the tank), and salt dip the two fish who are showing symptoms (see salt dip information below).

Day 2 – just monitor water and fish

Day 3 – salt dip the two fish

Day 4 – just monitor water and fish

Day 5 – big water change (>=75%), replace salt to 0.3%, NO prazi

Day 6-7 – just monitor water and fish

Day 8 – big water change (>=50%), replace salt to 0.3% salt, add double dose of prazi, and salt dip the two fish

Days 7-11 – just monitor water and fish

Day 12 – 100% water change, let us know how the fish are doing (we may recommend for you to continue with prazi and salt)

 

To do the 0.3% salt in the main tank, but all the salt into the end of some pantyhose and hang it in the tank. The salt will slowly dissolve and will not shock the two fish who are not being given a salt dip.

 

Here is the salt dip information (you will do a total of three salt dips for the two fish showing symptoms):

 

SALT DIP

1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (30 grams/Liter, or 113.7g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.

3. make sure you have some sort of timer

4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.

5. start timer.

6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.

7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.

8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.

9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

 

It is a bit weird to watch a goldfish in a salt dip for the first time. In step #6, I had to give my goldfish a gentle pat a couple of times when he went on his side before he could put himself upright.

 

Once the salt and prazi treatment is done, we recommend you up your water changes since the tank is overstocked by one fish. Do two larger water changes per week (>50%).

 

I'm going to bed as well, but will look over all of this in the morning!

 

Just curious about the overstocking? 4 fish in a 60 gallon is 15 gallons per fish, which I thought was okay? Or is 20 gallons per fish better? 

 

We recommend 15-20 gallons per fish, so 60 is okay. It is my preference for 20 gallons because goldfish create such waste. We had one moderator with a 125 gallon tank for two of her goldfish (which were huge fish). I have found that since I have increased the amount of water change I do per week (80%) my fish have not experienced any problems since (knock on wood!) which has been almost a year now.

 

So, I'll correct the recommendation here: Do at least one large water change per week (>50%). I think your 30% and 40% per week is fine per the "15 gallons per fish" standard. When the fish get bigger, I recommend increasing the amount of water change per week.

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Okay, here it is. I'm heading off to bed now. I'll check in the morning to see what questions you have.

 

In order to lower the fluke load to a tolerable level, this is what we recommend.

 

Day 1 – big water change (>=75%), put double dose prazi and 0.3% salt in main tank (see below on how to put the 0.3% salt in the tank), and salt dip the two fish who are showing symptoms (see salt dip information below).

Day 2 – just monitor water and fish

Day 3 – salt dip the two fish

Day 4 – just monitor water and fish

Day 5 – big water change (>=75%), replace salt to 0.3%, NO prazi

Day 6-7 – just monitor water and fish

Day 8 – big water change (>=50%), replace salt to 0.3% salt, add double dose of prazi, and salt dip the two fish

Days 7-11 – just monitor water and fish

Day 12 – 100% water change, let us know how the fish are doing (we may recommend for you to continue with prazi and salt)

 

To do the 0.3% salt in the main tank, but all the salt into the end of some pantyhose and hang it in the tank. The salt will slowly dissolve and will not shock the two fish who are not being given a salt dip.

 

Here is the salt dip information (you will do a total of three salt dips for the two fish showing symptoms):

 

SALT DIP

1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (30 grams/Liter, or 113.7g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.

3. make sure you have some sort of timer

4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.

5. start timer.

6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.

7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.

8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.

9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

 

It is a bit weird to watch a goldfish in a salt dip for the first time. In step #6, I had to give my goldfish a gentle pat a couple of times when he went on his side before he could put himself upright.

 

Once the salt and prazi treatment is done, we recommend you up your water changes since the tank is overstocked by one fish. Do two larger water changes per week (>50%).

 

I'm going to bed as well, but will look over all of this in the morning!

 

Just curious about the overstocking? 4 fish in a 60 gallon is 15 gallons per fish, which I thought was okay? Or is 20 gallons per fish better?

We recommend 15-20 gallons per fish, so 60 is okay. It is my preference for 20 gallons because goldfish create such waste. We had one moderator with a 125 gallon tank for two of her goldfish (which were huge fish). I have found that since I have increased the amount of water change I do per week (80%) my fish have not experienced any problems since (knock on wood!) which has been almost a year now.

 

So, I'll correct the recommendation here: Do at least one large water change per week (>50%). I think your 30% and 40% per week is fine per the "15 gallons per fish" standard. When the fish get bigger, I recommend increasing the amount of water change per week.

Okay cool...I'm gonna do the salt dips this afternoon. Should I do them completely separate, or can I go one after the other, and have them in the recovery tank together?

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This is slightly off topic but still relevant. Do you see that your white orandas eyes are larger than the eyes of the other fish, by any chance?

 

Yes...it's hard to tell from the photos, but he's much bigger than the other 3, and his head is at least 4-5 times the size of theirs :) Because he lost some weight in his wen recently, they look extra buggy too.

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

Okay...I will have to do day 8 one day early due to being out of town...is that okay?

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

 

And also...0.3% salt in the 60 is like 3.75 cups...just put that all in the toe of some hose and hang it in the tank?

 

(PS -- I was planning on doing 2 WC's a week anyway, like getting onto a schedule of doing Monday and Thursday/Friday)

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

Okay...I will have to do day 8 one day early due to being out of town...is that okay?

Yes, that is okay.

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

 

And also...0.3% salt in the 60 is like 3.75 cups...just put that all in the toe of some hose and hang it in the tank?

 

(PS -- I was planning on doing 2 WC's a week anyway, like getting onto a schedule of doing Monday and Thursday/Friday)

Yes, you get the picture. You'll see waves of dissolved salt come off the hose. Pretty weird and cool.

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Regarding the salt dips, I think being in the recovery tank together is fine. I would do completely different dips (different water/salt mixture) for hygiene sake.

 

And also...0.3% salt in the 60 is like 3.75 cups...just put that all in the toe of some hose and hang it in the tank?

 

(PS -- I was planning on doing 2 WC's a week anyway, like getting onto a schedule of doing Monday and Thursday/Friday)

Yes, you get the picture. You'll see waves of dissolved salt come off the hose. Pretty weird and cool.

 

 

Phew, day 1 is done! Well, the girls are still in the recovery tank, and I still have a big mess to clean up, but the dirty work is out of the way  :P

 

Thank you for the warning on the salt dip -- that was pretty scary. I watched some videos this morning, so I kind of knew what to expect, but it's different when it's your own fish. They're doing well now, though.

 

Once Nacho was put into the recovery tank, I noticed that her dorsal fin has gotten slightly worse as far as the splits go (looks kind of shredded and vaguely fin-rotty, but no redness...), and I see a couple of brownish areas on the edges...there is also a little brown spot on the tip of one of her pectoral fins too. My tank lights never picked this up, otherwise I would have of course mentioned it. I took a bazillion photos and this was the best one...hard to see, I know. Not sure if this changes anything, but wanted to mention it.

 

IMG_20150205_154105427_zpsbqim2rgu.jpg

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Thanks for the update.

 

Yeah, the salt dip is a bit freaky. It's like - you want me to brine my goldfish, whaaat?! Good to hear you got through your first dip. The following ones are a lot easier--the goldfish get use to them.

 

Fluke symptoms include shredded fins and small spots of blood on the fins, especially the base (maybe the brownish edges are/is blood?).

 

The dip will cause the sloughing off of slime coat which will help in getting rid of flukes that are feeding off of the slime coat. The prazi can then work more effectively on flukes that are on the scales/skin, under the slime coat. The salt dip also stimulates the creation of new slime coat.

 

You may see Nacho's fins get a bit worse before it gets better. Also, because Nacho's dorsal fin has quite a big chunk missing, it might grow back a bit differently, i.e., it may not grow back perfectly. Lots of us have goldfish whose fins have imperfections. The objective is to get rid of the parasites that are causing the fin damage.

 

Let's keep going...and continue to keep us updated.

Edited by LisaCGold

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Thanks for the update.

 

Yeah, the salt dip is a bit freaky. It's like - you want me to brine my goldfish, whaaat?! Good to hear you got through your first dip. The following ones are a lot easier--the goldfish get use to them.

 

Fluke symptoms include shredded fins and small spots of blood on the fins, especially the base (maybe the brownish edges are/is blood?).

 

The dip will cause the sloughing off of slime coat which will help in getting rid of flukes that are feeding off of the slime coat. The prazi can then work more effectively on flukes that are on the scales/skin, under the slime coat. The salt dip also stimulates the creation of new slime coat.

 

You may see Nacho's fins get a bit worse before it gets better. Also, because Nacho's dorsal fin has quite a big chunk missing, it might grow back a bit differently, i.e., it may not grow back perfectly. Lots of us have goldfish whose fins have imperfections. The objective is to get rid of the parasites that are causing the fin damage.

 

Let's keep going...and continue to keep us updated.

 

They are both doing okay...It's been just over 24 hours since day 1, and Nacho's frayed fins haven't gotten any better...it's hard to tell if they've gotten worse. Isn't fin rot usually a bacterial problem? My thinking is that since I just completed a treatment of Furan 2, it would have helped to clear that up if it was JUST fin rot? Which makes me think even more that maybe it is flukes. 

 

Should I add any Melafix? Or would that be overkill, and should I just stick to the schedule?

 

Looks like my next step is just the salt dips tomorrow. I will only be home for about 3 hours in the afternoon (crazy schedule as I'm prepping to go out of town), but if I do the dips as soon as I get in the door, that should give them a couple of hours in the recovery tank. I'll see if I can push them a little longer...both only made it between 2.5 and 3 minutes last time. Nacho bounced right back after, but Mamba just kind of floated in the recovery tank for a while, which freaked me out. 

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Thanks for your update.

 

The salt baths, prazi, and 0.3% salt is like throwing a bomb at the flukes though it will take time. I suggest sticking to the schedule and no Melafix for now.

 

If you have time, can you post a before and current photo of Nacho's dorsal fin and other frayed fins? It would be good to compare over time.

 

Let me know how Mamba handles the second dip.

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Thanks for your update.

 

The salt baths, prazi, and 0.3% salt is like throwing a bomb at the flukes though it will take time. I suggest sticking to the schedule and no Melafix for now.

 

If you have time, can you post a before and current photo of Nacho's dorsal fin and other frayed fins? It would be good to compare over time.

 

Let me know how Mamba handles the second dip.

 

The pectoral fin isn't actually frayed, just that little brownish thing I mentioned hanging off the end...not sure if they could be blood or not...they look like little brownish dingleberry things? LOL...definitely not red, but I could see them being scabs? Looks like she's grown a bit from the beginning of these photos too. 

 

Today:

_20150206_215011_zpsfuz6kinr.jpg

 

 

Jan. 12:

IMG_20150112_210909827_zpsaf752ab8.jpg

 

December 15:

IMG_20141216_162045286_zps0ec95319.jpg

 

December 1:

nacho2_zps696364db.jpg

Edited by misssmountain

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Thanks for the photos.

 

In the recovery time after the salt dip a fish may be disoriented for a while. But as a precaution please do the following for Mamba only:

 

Before the second salt dip please check Mamba's gills to make sure they are nice and red/dark pink. Below is a video on how to that. About 55 seconds in is the viewing on how to check gills.

 

 

If Mamba's gills are red/dark pink, then do the second salt dip for him/her.

 

Here are healthy gills:

 

http://thegab.org/Articles/DiagnosisChart.html#Gills

 

No need to do the gill check on Nacho. Just dip him/her.

 

I know you only have a short time that you'll be around today, but hopefully this won't take too much time.

 

I'm about to take off and I'll be out until 4pm pacific time today.

Edited by LisaCGold

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Thanks for the photos.

 

In the recovery time after the salt dip a fish may be disoriented for a while. But as a precaution please do the following for Mamba only:

 

Before the second salt dip please check Mamba's gills to make sure they are nice and red/dark pink. Below is a video on how to that. About 55 seconds in is the viewing on how to check gills.

 

 

If Mamba's gills are red/dark pink, then do the second salt dip for him/her.

 

Here are healthy gills:

 

http://thegab.org/Articles/DiagnosisChart.html#Gills

 

No need to do the gill check on Nacho. Just dip him/her.

 

I know you only have a short time that you'll be around today, but hopefully this won't take too much time.

 

I'm about to take off and I'll be out until 4pm pacific time today.

 

Alright, second salt dip is done and they are in recovery. It did go better this time, Nacho made the full 5 minutes, and Mamba I pulled out after 3:30, but she did much better right away in the recovery tank this time.

 

Now the edges on Nacho's dorsal are black, and there seems to be more of it than from Thursday. Mamba's anal fin seems to be getting that frayed look starting as well...I attached a photo, but it's hard to see. Also her tail seems to be getting some "thin" spots on one side...photo also attached. Not sure if this is all consistent with the fluke thing, and the treatment.

 

I'm doing my best to stay positive, but I'm not going to lie, this is starting to get to me. Thankfully my other 2 are doing well for the moment, and Mamba and Nacho seem to be in good spirits and still eating and everything, I'm just terrified of losing them.

 

IMG_20150207_152508024_zpsve1tn3ok.jpg

IMG_20150207_153711123_zps6acewov1.jpg

IMG_20150207_153251580_zpsbnf5rtfj.jpg

Edited by misssmountain

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The black on Nacho's fin indicates healing which is a good thing. It is referred to as melanophore migration. The black color comes when the irritant is removed and the healing process begins. In this case the irritant was flukes. In 3-6 seeks the black should clear up. So the black you are seeing is a good thing!

 

I feel that what is happening to Mamba's fins is a result of the fluke treatment.

 

At this point, the only symptom that I'm aware of that is presenting are fin issues that don't include streaks of blood. I strongly feel that the treatment that we have recommended is the right thing.

 

Sometimes during fluke treatment, a goldfish will get a secondary infection. Symptoms include bottom sitting and fin clamping. We are not seeing this. If this were to happen we would consider antibiotics, but we are not there yet. Just in case, what antibiotics do you have on hand?

 

Hang in there! You are doing the right thing! The key is to stick to the plan and not introduce any other meds until the need really arises.

Edited by LisaCGold

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Just to clarify, while on this treatment schedule, when you do a water change you only need to replace the amount of salt you took out. For example, if you did a 50% water change, you only need to put in 50% of the salt you originally put in in order to get back to the level of 0.3%. I hope this makes sense.

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One more thing: Do you have a heater in your tank? Can you tell us the temperature of your tank water? 

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The black on Nacho's fin indicates healing which is a good thing. It is referred to as melanophore migration. The black color comes when the irritant is removed and the healing process begins. In this case the irritant was flukes. In 3-6 seeks the black should clear up. So the black you are seeing is a good thing!

 

I feel that what is happening to Mamba's fins is a result of the fluke treatment.

 

At this point, the only symptom that I'm aware of that is presenting are fin issues that don't include streaks of blood. I strongly feel that the treatment that we have recommended is the right thing.

 

Sometimes during fluke treatment, a goldfish will get a secondary infection. Symptoms include bottom sitting and fin clamping. We are not seeing this. If this were to happen we would consider antibiotics, but we are not there yet. Just in case, what antibiotics do you have on hand?

 

Hang in there! You are doing the right thing! The key is to stick to the plan and not introduce any other meds until the need really arises.

 

I don't have a heater (but would get one if needed, obviously). Temp has been between 74-76 degrees recently, and today it is at 74.

 

And yes, I understand that about the salt. :) I think my next WC according to the schedule is 75% on Monday, at which point I will replace 45 gallons worth of salt at 0.3%.

 

Good to know about the black...I thought I'd heard before that it was a good thing, but upon seeing it, I wasn't so sure. 

 

Definitely no bottom sitting or clamping...in general, Mamba sometimes hangs out in the back upper corner when she's resting, or if she isn't feeling well (when she gets swim bladder-y, she goes back there). She spent most of the day Friday hanging out there, but by last evening and then this morning, she was back to swimming around 100%. I'm guessing it was just the stress of the first salt bath and the introduction of 0.3% salt. And even so, when I would come by the tank, she would swim down trying to find whatever food I was offering. So yeah, I'm not *too* worried about that behavior, but wanted to mention it.

 

The only meds I have on hand are the Prazi, melafix, pimafix, quick cure, and 4 packets left of the Furan 2. The goldfish store near me sells meds, and I have a Petco within walking distance if it's something a little more mainstream. Is there anything in particular I should pick up to have on hand?

 

Just to clarify...I did a double dose of Prazi on Thursday, and I'm not to add any more until my big water change on Monday, correct?

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So Day 1 was Thursday which makes Monday Day 5. That is a big water change, add back in salt, but NO prazi. You won't be adding prazi in until Day 7 or 8. I forget, but you can see what I wrote...actually I remember you changing that slightly because you are going out of town so I think you wanted to add the prazi in a day earlier (along with a water change). In any case, you want at least one full day without prazi so the fluke eggs will hatch. Then you do a big water change to remove flukes, then double dose prazi.

 

Good meds to have on hand are Seachem Kanaplex and Seachem Metroplex. Just make sure to only use these meds under the guidance of a moderator. Because they are antibiotics, unnecessary and improper use will result in antibiotic resistant bacteria.

 

Let's see how Mamba is with the third salt dip.

 

What is the gh of your water? Ideally you want 150 ppm (around 9 to 10 drops of the test kit). gh indicates the general hardness of your water which is mostly calcium and magnesium. What I have read is that by having it at 150 ppm, there are minerals in the water to help with digestion (a proper gh is good for other things also). So it has been my assumption that having a proper gh will help, but not cure, floaty or sinking fish due to constipation.

 

I have to use a gh booster to get my water to around 150 ppm. I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquarium. It is cheaper than Seachem Equilibrium.

 

When you get the time, do check your gh. You might as well check your kh since the test kit tests both (API gh/kh test kit).

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So Day 1 was Thursday which makes Monday Day 5. That is a big water change, add back in salt, but NO prazi. You won't be adding prazi in until Day 7 or 8. I forget, but you can see what I wrote...actually I remember you changing that slightly because you are going out of town so I think you wanted to add the prazi in a day earlier (along with a water change). In any case, you want at least one full day without prazi so the fluke eggs will hatch. Then you do a big water change to remove flukes, then double dose prazi.

 

Good meds to have on hand are Seachem Kanaplex and Seachem Metroplex. Just make sure to only use these meds under the guidance of a moderator. Because they are antibiotics, unnecessary and improper use will result in antibiotic resistant bacteria.

 

Let's see how Mamba is with the third salt dip.

 

What is the gh of your water? Ideally you want 150 ppm (around 9 to 10 drops of the test kit). gh indicates the general hardness of your water which is mostly calcium and magnesium. What I have read is that by having it at 150 ppm, there are minerals in the water to help with digestion (a proper gh is good for other things also). So it has been my assumption that having a proper gh will help, but not cure, floaty or sinking fish due to constipation.

 

I have to use a gh booster to get my water to around 150 ppm. I use the gh booster from Green Leaf Aquarium. It is cheaper than Seachem Equilibrium.

 

When you get the time, do check your gh. You might as well check your kh since the test kit tests both (API gh/kh test kit).

 

I can do the KH and GH a little later, or tomorrow morning...it's about time for me to run to job #2 for the day! 

 

I just noticed both of Mamba's eyes seem a little cloudy, which also must be a new development as I didn't notice this before. I know cloudy eyes can be a symptom of flukes too, but since we're getting rid of the flukes, would it be likely this would come up now? Or could it be the immediate after effects of the salt bath? 

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I've not heard of cloudy eyes being a symptom of flukes.

 

Please post a picture of Mamba's eyes tomorrow morning.

 

Oh yeah, your water temp is good.

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I've not heard of cloudy eyes being a symptom of flukes.

 

Please post a picture of Mamba's eyes tomorrow morning.

 

Oh yeah, your water temp is good.

 

Her eyes look better this morning...

 

Both Mamba and Nacho have many areas on their fins and tails now that are thinning, and Mamba is losing color on the edges of her fins. They have both gotten worse (in appearance) overnight. At this rate, Nacho's entire dorsal fin will be shredded in the next couple of days :( Is this still a side effect of the treatment? I'm starting to get worried about this...

Edited by misssmountain

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