Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 21, 2014 Test Results for the Following: * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0.0 * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0.0 * Nitrate level(Tank) 80.0 * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0.25 * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0.0 * Nitrate level(Tap) 0.0 * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.0 * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 8.0 Other Required Info: * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Api drops * Water temperature? 70F * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20 gal for 5 months * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Aqueon 20 and penguin bio wheel 20 * How often do you change the water and how much? 80% every week * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 7 days ago, 80% * How many fish in the tank and their size? one 5" ryukin Hey guys, I really need some help. This morning I woke up to find my ryukin, Chiba, drifting belly-up with small black patches (not raised) on her. I tested the water and found that the nitrate was 80ppm D: twice what it usually is by water change day. I did a 100% change and gave her peas (incase the floating is from digestion). I haven't fed her anything else today, and her scales look like they might be slightly raised. Can anyone help? I'm really stressed out Thanks, cyprinidae 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 21, 2014 That is a big dip in pH. Is it possible to do two smaller 50% changes a week instead of one large one (for future reference)? If you could take some pics that would help. Just to warn you, belly up isn't a good sign. Any c-shape? I hope fishy gets better. 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 21, 2014 Thank you. She is doing the same thing today I don't see any c shape, and she isn't hanging out by the surface. She swims as usual and then starts to tip onto her belly and makes little effort to right herself for a while. Eventually she does and she goes on foraging. There were some green poops at the bottom of the tank (from the peas) so I'm guessing constipation isn't the problem Heres a video and a pic of the black spots (one is on the underside of her mouth): View My Video 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fantailfan1 26,742 Posted September 21, 2014 Her scales look a bit prickly/pineconed. Is she eating? Do you have any antibiotics? 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 21, 2014 Her scales look a bit prickly/pineconed. Is she eating? Do you have any antibiotics? Thanks! she's eating. I have melafix for bacterial stuff, but nothing more specific 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 21, 2014 Looks like the fish is having trouble with its swim bladder from an internal infection. I am guessing the black is burns from poor water quality that is healing. The fish is going to need to be in nitrate free water to heal. Check your nitrate daily and do a 50% water change if you detect anything. Have you noticed if the scales are going down or are they getting worse? 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 22, 2014 Looks like the fish is having trouble with its swim bladder from an internal infection. I am guessing the black is burns from poor water quality that is healing. The fish is going to need to be in nitrate free water to heal. Check your nitrate daily and do a 50% water change if you detect anything. Have you noticed if the scales are going down or are they getting worse? Thank you! I'll continue to monitor her water closely. The scales look a bit better today. What should I do about the infection, if thats the problem? 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 22, 2014 You would need a medicated food containing metronidazole like metro meds. Or a waterbourne metronidazole treatment depending on if the fish is still eating or not. both of these should not be started unless duration and amount has been confirmed by a mod I will not lie, this is an advanced form and fish do not usually recover from it. They usually succumb to subsequent infections . It is up to you as to whether or not to proceed. I hope that maybe a mod can come along and give you further advice. All I can say is that if the clean water is helping then continue to provide clean water. Sometimes lowering the water level can help alleviate and right themselves but only do this in a container that maintains ten gallons of water (IE a 20 gal tank half filled or a 30 gal tank 1/3 filled) 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks, how do I get those? Can a mod please look at this at least? I'm panicking. Someone please help us! 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 22, 2014 No need to panic. To get a mod you hit the "report" button at the bottom of the post. Remember that they are volunteers so it can take some time. Metronidazole you should be able to get from your Lfs, I buy seachem metronidazole but in the us you may have something different. Metro meds is ordered only from goldfishconnection.com What you can do is daily post params, take top view pics of the fish if it isn't too stressing on it, and take a video of the swimming. Let the mod know when you have purchased the metronidazole or if that isn't available try kanaplex (kanamycin). Let a mod know when you have the meds and they'll tell you the instruction on usage and duration (the instructions on the meds aren't always exact for the needs of a sick goldfish) Is your panicking due to the fish' condition worsening? 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4prettyfish 2,702 Posted September 22, 2014 Thanks, how do I get those? Can a mod please look at this at least? I'm panicking. Someone please help us! Just to ease your mind hopefully .. Your in good hands with Una (bodoba) until your able to get a hold of a Mod. She gave you some great advice to continue keeping the water clean/pristine and lowering the water level could help with your fish balance. I hope your fish will be okay. 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fantailfan1 26,742 Posted September 22, 2014 As long as the fish is eating, MetroMeds from goldfishconnection is your best bet but that will take a few days for you to get. Your other option as Una said is to get powdered metronidazole along with another waterborne medication such as trisulfa, oxytetracycline, OR erythromycin. Erythromycin is Maracyn (NOT Maracyn 2) and can be found at chain stores. Metronidazole is not sold at large chain stores but is often found at local pet stores or online. Let us know which route you go and we can help you. Like Una said, we are all volunteers and have jobs and lives other than Kokos but we check in as often as we can. PS Una was on the mod team until her life got too crazy. She knows her stuff FYI. 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 24, 2014 Thank you guys so much! I can try to get to the store tomorrow, but she is looking pretty bad right now. I'll be lucky if she makes the night 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 24, 2014 I'm going to get the Erythromycin today. She's still a live but isn't moving much. I'll do literally anything. thank you for all the help. I really dont know what happened she's always been so healthy and happy 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 24, 2014 Nitrates lower the fish' immunity with which make them more prone to infections. Usually when they are progressing rapidly there isn't much any of us can do. I do understand what it is like to have a sick fish 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cyprinidae 65 Posted September 24, 2014 Thank you for all your help! I'm still going to try the meds just in case. That's good to know about nitrates would I be better off moving her to a 10 gal uncycled tank (no feeding) or keeping her in the 20g with the filters on? Would the carbon remove the medicine? Also, if I take the carbon out of both filters, will the cycle collapse? I really can't thank you enough for all the help 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bodoba 2,980 Posted September 24, 2014 You need to remove the carbon but keep the filter floss. The filter floss is where the cycle lives the ten gallon would be better as it is easier for water changes and your meds will last longer dosing a ten gal vs a twenty gal. If you have the filter inserts you will have to cut out the carbon, remove the plastic frame and keep the floss on the aqueon it is the white floss. You just need to move one of the filters. 0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites