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Fish behaving odd/sick?


brice39

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Hey everyone so about 1 week ago one of our two goldfish started behaving oddly. He started staying on the bottom of the tank more often and hasn't eaten (that I've seen) for days. When he swims it's quite erratic and uncoordinated often running into objects at high speed. I have noticed more red arteries in his tail of late and he also has an increased redness in his hills and is breathing constantly and it seems heavily. Also lately a couple of scales have fallen off (not sure if from when he runs into things?). Also last few days it seems like both eyes are protruding out quite substantially from what I remember...

I have attached a few photos any thoughts? Water has been changed a few days ago and filter cleaned and I do not have gear for anything other than pH testing which is normal levels. Tank is also big enough for them.

Seems to be a combo of dropsy/tumour/swim bladder?

Edit sorry could somebody tell me how to attach photos/videos? Thanks

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You upload your photos to an image site like photobucket, imagur, or tinypic and then copy and past the IMG link into your post here.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/116133-help-request-check-list/

Copy and paste the questions and answers to this chart as well. We will try and help out your fish, just need a little more info :)

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  • Test Results for the Following:

    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) N/A

    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) N/A

  • * Nitrate level(Tank) N/A

* Ammonia Level(Tap) N/A - should be basically zero since 100% water change about 7-10 days ago

* Nitrite Level(Tap) N/A

* Nitrate level(Tap) N/A

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) pH 6.5

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) tank water with minimal chlorines pH 4 roughly

Other Required Info:

  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* Water temperature? Unknown

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 12inx24inx12in (DxLxH)

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* How often do you change the water and how much? 100% water change once a month/six weeks roughly. Been doing this for years with no visible issues to fish

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? 8-10 days 100% change

  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* What do you feed your fish and how often? Flakes - did get slightly excited about 2weeks ago and fed them quite a lot for about 5 days....hope this didnt hurt them? Otherwise before this was a pinch of flakes every 24-36hrs roughly

* Any new fish added to the tank? No

* Any medications added to the tank? No

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Frozen peas de-shelled and boiled (healthy fish eats only), natural sea salt added last 5 days - 1tablespoon dissovled in water (applied twice)

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? minor scale damage in no particular pattern

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? not eating, staying at bottom/in corners, lethargic and erratic swimming behaviour when does swim, redder than normal gills, bilateral protruding eyes with NO visible white rings around eye

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By the dimensions you provided, that sounds like a 15 gallon tank. How many inches are the fish from head to peduncle?

The first thing I would recommend is doing another 100% water change being sure to match the temperature and pH.

What water conditioner are you using?

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I am sorry to hear your fish aren't doing well. I would advise scheduling one day a week for a 50% minimum water change, as I am concerned that water quality might be the root cause of what you are seeing. Changing it any less frequently can quickly lead to poor water conditions - I once waited just 2 weeks and my ammonia was very high. The pH can also drop quite a bit over time; optimal pH for goldfish is in the 7-8 range but the most important thing is that it be stable. The more frequent water changes will hopefully put your mind at ease about feeding - goldfish should be fed at least twice a day (about 1% of body weight per day total) because of the way they are structured internally, with their small stomachs. They absorb more nutrients that way. [emoji4]

I would suggest retesting your tap pH - I have not heard of water being so acidic. We will also need the other test results, as others have mentioned. If you don't have a home test kit, you could bring in samples of your tap and tank water to a local aquarium store - most, including Petsmart and Petco, will test it for free. Just make sure they give you actual numbers, not "fine" or "safe."

I'm interested to hear what the mods have to say, since I had a fish that was exhibiting similar behavior years ago (swimming at full speed headfirst into tank walls, etc.). I always think about what could have happened to him. I was very new to fishkeeping at the time, and I strongly suspect it was water-quality-related.

Edited by *Amanda*
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Sorry guys I have no water testing equipment apartment from pH strips.... The sick fish is around 3-3.5in long. The other is 4in. Have had both for 6-7 years at a guess.. And unfortunately the 'local' aquarium is 50mins away.. Can anyone suggest a brand/kit that i could buy off ebay/website that has all the gear i need to test ammonia/nitrite/nitrate etc?

Up until this fish started displaying weird tendencies we have never bothered with testing pH or anything as we heard goldfish are quite hardy and adapt to most conditons (within a range) pretty well. At least that is what we have found..

Just retested the tap water and its at pH5. Apologies. And yes the tank has a filter which is cleaned when we do the water change..

Ok so filter is Model number PF 200N brand Otto - Sorry couldnt find this info before.

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Here is the test kit most of us use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/API-FRESHWATER-MASTER-TEST-KIT-/350800602178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ad586442

Goldfish are hardy, but surviving isn't thriving. You will be amazed at how they grow, develop and behave when in optimal conditions. If you are are willing and able, I would suggest a tank upgrade to at least 30 gallons (40 would be ideal). Long, low tanks are better than high ones.

We also recommend 10x filtration for goldfish as they produce a lot of waste. Your filter is about 1/3 of the filtration needed. Can you describe the media in the filter and how you clean it?

I also feel like the white spots on the tail indicate a fluke infestation. So, you will need to treat them with Praziquantel and either aquarium or canning/pickling salt. We can help you with this treatment protocol. If you have the salt, you can begin that now at 1 teaspoon per gallon. Please dissolve it in dechlorinated water before adding it to the tank.

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Kosher salt also works, as long as it is pure sodium chloride without any additives (like anti-caking agents). Morton's canning/pickling salt is going to be the best deal by far, though, if it's available in your area. (It's not available in mine, which is frustrating!)

The API Master Test Kit Jared linked to is great. It is liquid drops, which are much more accurate than the strips. :)

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Here is the test kit most of us use:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/API-FRESHWATER-MASTER-TEST-KIT-/350800602178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ad586442

Goldfish are hardy, but surviving isn't thriving. You will be amazed at how they grow, develop and behave when in optimal conditions. If you are are willing and able, I would suggest a tank upgrade to at least 30 gallons (40 would be ideal). Long, low tanks are better than high ones.

We also recommend 10x filtration for goldfish as they produce a lot of waste. Your filter is about 1/3 of the filtration needed. Can you describe the media in the filter and how you clean it?

I also feel like the white spots on the tail indicate a fluke infestation. So, you will need to treat them with Praziquantel and either aquarium or canning/pickling salt. We can help you with this treatment protocol. If you have the salt, you can begin that now at 1 teaspoon per gallon. Please dissolve it in dechlorinated water before adding it to the tank.

10x filtration? Yes i think the tank is 15 gallons in size according to google.

The media are just the sponge things that come with the filter? They appear almost completely brown however looking at the replacement ones online they are basically white so i'm not sure if they started out that way we have had the filter for many many years... Either way i clean it through running water and its basically like a sponge you use to clean your car with so is quite easy to squash and clean.

Will try the salt now however the other praz... thing i dont have. Is this a med? And the fluke disease doesnt that usually affect more widespread scales. About half a dozen of this goldies flakes seem affected...

Thanks

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10x filtration: The filter should be turning over the entire volume of the tank ten times every hour. For example, a 40 gallon tank should have a filter rated to do at least 400 gph (gallons per hour) or 1,510 lph (liters per hour.) This can usually be found on the filter's box as its "flow rate." Yes, it seems like a lot, but you have goldfish and that means lots of poop. I would suggest buying the new tank first, then upgrading the filtration because then you will know you have enough.

Please, don't clean your filter under running water unless your house gets its water from a well. Chlorine and chloramines found in city water will destroy the beneficial bacteria in your filter media. When you clean your filter out, do it in old aquarium water when you do your water changes. This way, you are protecting the bacteria that run the

Make sure that you have the right salt. The only ingredient listed on the back of the container should be "sodium chloride." If there is any other ingredient, don't use the salt.

Yes, Praziquantel is a medication. I believe the australian equivalent to our Prazi powder is Blue Planet Fluke and Tapeworm Tablets. A mod will have to confirm before you go out and spend money, should there be another more suitable prazi out there in Aus for you to use.

You can't see flukes themselves, only the areas that have been heavily attacked by them. Those white spots indicate that the flukes are already in enough numbers to eat right through the fins and cause little spots. Usually fins are the first place we see these. But, if we know that the fins are effected then we know that the whole fish is infested.

E. to add: The first thing on your shopping list, though, needs to be that test kit. :) It's really important.

Edited by ChelseaM
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You can use pure sea salt too (cheaper than aquarium salt) and readily available in any supermarket like Coles / Woolies:

http://www.mckenziesfoods.com.au/product/57/McKenzies_Australian_Natural_Sea_Salt

And yup - i'm pretty sure the only meds available over the counter is the Blue Planet Fluke and Tapeworm tablet (available at city farmers, pet barn etc)

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Ok so test results are as follows:

pH: 7.6

Ammonia: between 0-0.25ppm

Nitrite 0.25ppm

Nitrate about 15ppm

So the update is after spending a lot of the past week on the bottom on the tank and just getting pushed around by the small water currents he now looks to be swimming a bit more around the tank. I have noticed the extreme gills and mouth movement has subsided however ive noticed on his inferior tail and part of his ventral fin is like its been hacked away or eaten away at by something. Very asymmetrical and not sure if you can see that on the pics or vid.

Ive also tried feeding peas which the bigger goldfish likes however the 'sick' one I havent seen eat yet..

Also i picked up some new filter sponge for my otto filter, which are white, whereas my current ones are coloured a black/brown. Now i dont know if these started out white like the new ones or they were just that colour back then. Thoughts? Have put a pic in of the current filter sponges. These are the new ones I have http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Otto-replacement-Sponge-for-PF2000-1200-800-600-400-Aquarium-internal-Filter-/321504530331?pt=AU_Pet_Supplies&hash=item4adb29cf9b

New Pics and vids below:

http://Brice39.vidmeup.com/view?q=5425123b8235a.flv

https://imageshack.com/i/eyCeunUFj

https://imageshack.com/i/eyooVAADj

https://imageshack.com/i/f0Q5tShij

https://imageshack.com/i/exEw45EBj

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What is your tap pH? At the very least you should be changing 30% of the water daily.

Tank space seems pretty cramped. Remove some of your gravel to keep the water cleaner. Leaving only 1/4" of it,

Remove the ship ornament for now. Let's focus on trying to keep the water clean.

Did you find a kit to test your water? If so, please do that daily and write your test results here.

He looks like there are multiple issues going on but without clean water treatment can't progress, :)

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Sponges turn brownish over time. That's not a big deal. Just squeeze them out in some tank water in a bucket to "clean" them. Do not run them under tap water.

My best guess is one of the other fish is nipping at his tail as they see him as weakened. His best chance would be to be isolated in a tank by himself to heal.

Have you added any meds to the tank? Salt? Prazi?

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Sponges turn brownish over time. That's not a big deal. Just squeeze them out in some tank water in a bucket to "clean" them. Do not run them under tap water.

My best guess is one of the other fish is nipping at his tail as they see him as weakened. His best chance would be to be isolated in a tank by himself to heal.

Have you added any meds to the tank? Salt? Prazi?

Have added a few courses of aquarium salt over the past 7 days fantail. I heard this reduces fish stress?

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