Jump to content

Massive fish Kill . HELP


zapirk

Recommended Posts

  • Regular Member
  • Test Results for the Following:
    • * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0.25 this morning . 0 last night
    • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0
    • * Nitrate level(Tank) <20
    • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0
    • * Nitrite Level(Tap)0
    • * Nitrate level(Tap)0
    • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) naa
    • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)na
    • Other Required Info:
      • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Drops
      • * Water temperature? 76-78
      • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 60 us gal. 4+ months
      • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Nexx 110 , zoomed 50gal canninster, and a topfin 40gal internal filter
      • * How often do you change the water and how much? 20% 2x weekls
      • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? yesterday 2 water changes of 50% each due to ich
      • * How many fish in the tank and their size? was 4 goldies. 2 large orondas and 2 small orondas
      • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? API stress coat. Salt(treating ich)
      • * What do you feed your fish and how often? pellets goldfish, 1 to 2 times daily small amt
      • * Any new fish added to the tank? no. new decor from a friends tank
      • * Any medications added to the tank? salt 2nd does
      • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. Salt tx 4 months ago for ich for aprox 3 weeks. was when added new fish
      • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? grains of salt off and on past 2 days. white eye spot on one yesterday. this morning all DOA
      • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Acted nornmal as of last night
    • so my questin is. i have a 3 year old who loves the fish and he thinks they are coming back. so me and my wife would like to go out and get him another fish. should i do a TOTAL Cleaning on tank and filter whiping out the bio filter or should i just clean out tank with 100% water change and ttry and save the bio filter in the canisters. i have figguerd the issue came from the aquarium decor from my friends tank since they started showiung ich within 24 hrs of putting that in.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I'm sorry this happened :hug please try and get the pH values of both the tap and tank. You can bring a sample to a pet store to get it tested.

If there is ick in the system, I would do a deep cleaning before adding anything. I forget the ratio, but it's a bleach to water ratio. Someone will be by soon to further help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

by any chance, did you get any photos of the issues? i am inclined to think it was something other than Ich. usually even severe infestations of Ich can be visible for weeks and is not really something that is 'off and on'.. are you sure there wasn't anything dropped in the tank? excessive feeding etc? it just sounds all to quick for Ich to be the culprit.

that said, since we cannot be 100% sure at this stage without having seen the symptoms, i would be weary of what still exists in the filter(s).

is there any chance you can nuke everything and start over with a fishless cycle? that would be my strongest advice at this point without any further information.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

the photos, even blurry, is not enough to present a severe infestation of Ich which would claim the life of goldfish. usually when they become gravely ill with Ich, they are covered almost 60% of their body or more. then they display lethargy, secondary infections, blood patches etc.

my best advice to you is to simply nuke everything in the tank, use bleach, 1 part bleach, 9 parts water i think is the go around here. personally, i just use full strength bleach and then rinse everything really well whilst soaking components in water treated with Prime.

after putting everything back together, i would run it with fresh water and prime for a few days, make a 100% water change and then seed the filter. this will rule out any lingering parasite or bacteria.

the drop in PH is concerning, i am not sure for tropicals, but for goldies, it needs to stay consistent with the PH being more neutral around 7.2 or higher. to be sure about this, everytime you do a water change, you must test the water which you are going to fill the tank with, if your water is affected by 'heavy downpours' as you say. to raise the PH from there, you will need to use either baking soda: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/110296-stabilizing-your-tank-ph-with-sodium-bicarbonate-baking-soda/ or a product by Seachem.. one of the two will be fine, Alkaline Buffer or Gold Buffer. this will keep the strength of the PH stable in the tank till the next water change.

as a usual routine with goldies, once we have established a proper cycle and considering that you are stocked accordingly and have the correct filtration, a weekly water change of 60% or more is required to keep everything in check.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

any idea what is was. it was so sudden . do i just add the bleach to the water in the system and leave the fileers on. then do 100% water changes till bleach gone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I would check the pH in your cichlid tank . . . when and how much water did you last change?

I would also pick up a KH test kit and buffer your water as Helen has suggested. You'll want to make sure your pH is stable/buffered before getting new fish. I suspect that is what happened. A drop from a pH of 8 (basic) to 6 (acidic) is a large drop. The pH scale is logarithmic so a pH of 6 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 8. And if it dropped fairly rapidly, that could be deadly.

I'm sorry for your losses. :hug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

any idea what is was. it was so sudden . do i just add the bleach to the water in the system and leave the fileers on. then do 100% water changes till bleach gone?

yes, or your can break everything up and soak them for a while.. then rinse them very well, follow with a good few hours soak in Prime water. i would include all parts of the filters too. i would rather you go through all this because you can re-seed the tank quite easily. at least then you are certain (particularly since the addition of the ornament) that everything possible as a bad influence has been eliminated.

I would check the pH in your cichlid tank . . . when and how much water did you last change?

I would also pick up a KH test kit and buffer your water as Helen has suggested. You'll want to make sure your pH is stable/buffered before getting new fish. I suspect that is what happened. A drop from a pH of 8 (basic) to 6 (acidic) is a large drop. The pH scale is logarithmic so a pH of 6 is 100 times more acidic than a pH of 8. And if it dropped fairly rapidly, that could be deadly.

I'm sorry for your losses. :hug

i agree that the PH may have been the reason and if not the sole reason, definitely a strong contributor to the rapid decline in health and death of your goldfish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

but what would couse the drop? could stress coat and other declorinaters lower the PH. both the goldfish tank and my trap are norm 7.2 to 7.6 . cichlids r 6.0 also ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

the products you reported to be using should not be causing the PH to drop since they are well used products by members here on the forum and there don't seem to be any issues. i would be inclined to suggest as Lisa did, re the KH values of your water not being strong enough. you can easily find what the values of your KH tap water is by taking a sample down to your LFS for testing, which they should test for free. if you are going to do that, then they should be able to conduct all tests at the same time. write the actual numbers down from each result, and if you like, you can share them with us here where we can offer our suggestions :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Are you on well water by any chance? Sometimes wells can have pH changes during periods of heavy rain. It's usually not a huge change, but it's possible there was a drop..

Have there been any sprays near the area? Febreeze, Lysol, windex, perfumes, body sprays... Perhaps blown towards the tank by a vent or a fan?

Edited by Chai
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

im city water. close to a international airport ,highways, rivers. so run off is a huge issue. i dont know what has flux my PH i will take a sample from my cichlid tank to test KH and will probaly get crushed coral to stableize my PH.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

please also have your tap water tested since this is the source you use to water change your goldfish :) and crushed coral can take a few weeks to start working. so if you can get some baking soda or buffer in the meantime, that would be sure to help you until the crushed coral becomes active :)

cichilds are also for a PH of 7.5 - 9.. thing is, most fish are ok at around 6 PH. as long as it's stable. ie, no fluctuations or PH crashes, which can and does happen. they may be ok at 6 PH, but there is no telling how much stress they receive in such acidic water over a long period of time. stressed goldfish = a very short life span which leaves them susceptible to other health issues.. PH at 6 does not keep the best slime coat either, since we notice at low PH that the slimecoat begins to fall off the fish in strands, the coating over the eye forms white (more noticeable over the eye since the pupil is usually black) etc... so it's best to find the values of your KH & GH and we can help you in correcting the issues.

good luck at the LFS with your water samples :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

my ciclids are breeding like crazy so they are healthy but the PH isnt normaly that low. its possible that something was in the city water 2 days ago when i did changes on both and since the goldies are in a tank 1/2 the size the fluxuation happend faster? who knows am doing a deep clean anyway just to be safe. its just sad cause we have had fishie and zelda for over 2 years since my son was 1 years old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

will a small amount of crushed coral in the filter helpo the goldie tank also. at least keep it stable. i dont wanna get into haveing to calculate additives every water change if i can avoid it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporter

will a small amount of crushed coral in the filter helpo the goldie tank also. at least keep it stable. i dont wanna get into haveing to calculate additives every water change if i can avoid it

it was more the goldfish tank that i was referring to since i don't keep cichlids and know little about them. and yes, you can add the crushed coral to the filters of the goldfish tank. i prefer it in the filters since my tanks are bare bottom. i purchased a fine netted bag at the LFS, others have purchased the delicate garments bags which you add to your washing machine... but i found that the best and cheapest thing to use, is pantyhose. just tie or sew it at either end to create a bag, i guess. this will stop it from clogging up your filters and getting caught in the impeller(s).

be sure to rinse the coral like crazy before you add it to the tank as it sends the water very cloudy. it will most likely send the water slightly cloudy even after rinsing it several times, but it will settle a lot faster if it is rinsed well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I'm very sorry for your losses. :hug

I just wanted to mention, the reason Prime is recommended is because it detoxifies ammonia. Stress Coat doesn't. If your LFS doesn't carry Prime, there are other options (like Ultimate, which is what I use) - just be sure it detoxifies ammonia. This will be especially important since you are essentially starting up a new tank, and ammonia spikes are a possibility even with seeded filter media.

Also, what percentage of salt were you using, and did it have any additives? The therapeutic dose for ich is 0.3%, and the salt must not contain any additives (like anti-caking agents). Good options are aquarium salt, kosher salt or Morton's Canning and Pickling Salt (this last one is commonly recommended, but is not sold anywhere in my area).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...