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Remo AkaGizmo Barcellone

Using extra media in filter?

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I'm at work so don't have the opportunity to take any photos for you sweet guys!

So here's the deal. I got the APS 1400ef. Works great. Although I'm still getting green water, I've read it won't harm the fish but it is very unsightly. I want a visually attractive tank like everyone else! I do water changes every other day to try to combat it. The other day I actually cleaned out all the filter, took out alot of water, down to about 4 or 5 inches depth. The tank looked nice for a day or two then went back to going green. Admittedly I think through the day when we are out some light must hit the tank but not alot. I was using API water conditioner, which wasn't making much of a difference (I was I used it, as I've run out, need to get more. Recommendations?). There does seem to be some algae in my hoses though?

Anyway my point; I'm looking to maybe put more sponge in my filter. What's the opinions? Considering swapping the carbon crap for another layer of sponge? Think this'll help catch algae before it hits the tank?

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Prime is an excellent water conditioner :) though it won't help with the green water

I believe that a member of this forum bought an APS filter with UV (he also had green water). Within around 3 days the water went from being green to clear. Other than UV, I don't really know of any other way to get rid of green water.

I think swapping the carbon out for other media is a good idea, though again I'm not sure that it would make a difference with green water, someone with more knowledge will no doubt be along soon :)

Edited by Lis.

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Uv is the best way to get rid of green water, it may take a little time though. Is your tank near a window? What type of lighting do you have and how long are you running it a day?

Some algae in the filter tubing isn't atypical, I get this too ;)

Changing out the carbon for sponges or filter padding is a good idea in the long term only because carbon isn't a necessity. But it will not do anything for the green water ;)

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In hindsight, when I bought this filter I should have spent an extra £20 and got the one with uh built in. I had read it wouldn't have made a difference tho. Right now I can't justify buying uv equipment unfortunately! :(

I just seen in another site, a thread where someone has the same filter and has a different layout of media. Where I have a sponge then media on each tray, he has three sponges on the bottom, then ceramic rings then plastic balls and ditched the carbon. I wonder if having all three sponges on the bottom would work a bit better?

Also, would getting a little nerite snail (if that's what it's called) help with the algae situation? Or maybe moss balls?

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In hindsight, when I bought this filter I should have spent an extra £20 and got the one with uh built in. I had read it wouldn't have made a difference tho. Right now I can't justify buying uv equipment unfortunately! :(

I just seen in another site, a thread where someone has the same filter and has a different layout of media. Where I have a sponge then media on each tray, he has three sponges on the bottom, then ceramic rings then plastic balls and ditched the carbon. I wonder if having all three sponges on the bottom would work a bit better?

Also, would getting a little nerite snail (if that's what it's called) help with the algae situation? Or maybe moss balls?

I don't know if you saw my questions above, but I'm wondering if you have the tank next to a window and what type of lighting you have on the tank and how long you run it for.

You could try a black out on the tank, I've read of people having success with this before. Just put a blanket/towel over the tank to block any light for several days, and do a big water change every 3 days or so. If you have a spare QT tank it might be nice to put your fish in it while you do this, otherwise at least make sure there is good aeration in the tank and that you peek under there to check in them.

Your filter media has nothing to do with the green water, you can't filter out green water, and a nerite can help a little with algae on the tank walls but will do nothing for green water.

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Would you also mind testing your water and let us know ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph?

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Huh, sorry I'm replying via my phone right now so skipped it a little.

My tank isn't near the windowx it's across the living room. I'm sure there will be the inevitable touch of light creeking in through the day when no one is in. I live in the 3rd floor as well, so the sun is kindda always level with us.

As for lighting. Well.. shirtly after I got the tank the bulbs went, so replaced them with new Arcadia ones. Can't remember the details, but they're pretty much standard to my knowledge? It's just getting to be a complete pain and of course the missus is all "why don't you just clean it" oh aye.. the thought of just completely nuking it is something I don't really want to do, but can see it happening.

Might actually add the gravel this time too.

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How long do you leave the lights on typically?

Nuking it is certainly one option. You'd have to cycle again and hope it doesn't return because it could ;)

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Unfortunately I don't have a test kit. I'm going past a Pets at home today so might see what they've got for cheap cheap!

The API master test kit has everything you need, it's a little pricey 25-30 dollars, but will last you longer than those strip test kits and is more accurate. You can bring a sample of the water too and ask them to test it for you, just write down the exact numbers. (Don't let them say everything's fine and not give you numbers), but you'll want to own your own kit if that's a possibility financially for you right now.

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On the subject of lights, I used to leave them in throughout the day, but nowadays I only ever put them on for a few hours a day at most, because of this issue. I did do 5 days of blackout, it made a little difference, along with big water changes obviously.

I will see if they have a API test kit when I'm there. It really is a Kong term necessity so I houldnt grumble too much.

I wondered, would having an airstone/curtain make a positive effect? My external filter has a spray bar obviously, so that is breaking the water a lot and increasing oxygenation.. Just wondered though?

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Keeping an air stone in there is important for the fish ( or at least having good surface agitation from the filter) because green water can reduce oxygen saturation in the water. But it won't do anything for the water.

It's good that you've reduced the lighting period.

Get the test kit and let us know what your results are :)

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Good news. Got a little test kit. Bad news. It's only some strips. I had been shopping and didn't have enough for the big £28 API kit. How the he'll is it so expensive??? Also got a big bottle of API stress coat I think.

So I will give it a test in a bit.

Me and the missus have been talking about maybe moving the tank into the dining room now. Living room to dining room is kindda open. Where there is space for it, it's still adjacent to the living room windows. albeit 14ft further away and the dining room is kindda always dark with the blackout blinds...

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Huh, so here's some readings. I was gonna start a new thread but don't wanna clog the place up when this is already here lol . This is what I think the turn out it.

Gh 0

Kh 40

Ph 7.0

N02 (nitrite) 0.5

N03 (nitrate) 40

IMAG0223.jpg

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Huh, so here's some readings. I was gonna start a new thread but don't wanna clog the place up when this is already here lol . This is what I think the turn out it.

Gh 0

Kh 40

Ph 7.0

N02 (nitrite) 0.5

N03 (nitrate) 40

IMAG0223.jpg

Sorry, I would have told you this if I had known you were going to get strips, but these test strips also do not have an ammonia test. So you have to buy a separate drop test kit for ammonia :( I know the drop test kit is pricey, but it will literally last for hundreds of tests, while I think you get what? 12-24 tests in the strip kit :idont so in the long run it's cheaper to buy the drop kit because you get so many tests out of it.

My concern is whether or not your tank is cycled. Some have reported that the increase in ammonia during cycling process can contribute to green water issues, which is why we often see this issue in new tanks. So I am really wondering about your ammonia.

Could you test your tap water as well? I want to see if you have nitrate or nitrites in your tap, since you are getting a reading of both on the strip.

Couple more questions:

1. how long has this tank been setup?

2. When was your most recent water change and how much did you change?

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Ugh. No I know I should invest in the big kit, but I had just been shopping and didn't have much cash left lol. And this pack came with like 5 strips. Pathetic.

Huh, this tank has been going for a good few months. I think since February? I did cycle it for a few days but also seeded some water from an old tank that was running at the time. and was fine n clear. I do water changes every 2 days, 3 days at a push. Typically I take out about 40% at a time. Right now I'm UN the mind set that I may move the tank to the dinning room to hide it from some light. And by doing that I will need to empty it etc so that'll be a col start. I may give it a week or so n see how it goes tho

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Please test you tap for me. It's good that you have nitrates , as that's the end point of the cycle but you also have nitrites which could mean (1) your tank isn't fully cycled (2) you have nitrites in the tap or (3) the test kit is not giving you an accurate read.

I'm also concerned that you have 40ppm nitrates when you are doing such frequent water changes. 40 is the max that we want to see in a tank, ideally it should stay below 20ppm as some Goldies are sensitive to nitrates. So I'm wonder if the tap has nitrates.

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Ok, my tap water..

Gh 30

Kh 40

Ph 6.5

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 0 or maybe just 20??

If it makes any difference I haven't done a water change in 2 days, it's due tonight and I have the treatment stuff now. My general plan was to do a big water change, 70% sort of thing

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Ok, my tap water..

Gh 30

Kh 40

Ph 6.5

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 0 or maybe just 20??

If it makes any difference I haven't done a water change in 2 days, it's due tonight and I have the treatment stuff now. My general plan was to do a big water change, 70% sort of thing

Even after two days it doesn't make sense that you'd have 40ppm of nitrate :idont You can see that fast rise in overstocked tanks, but I don't think you are overstocked right? (15-20 gallons per fish) The other issue with the strips is the range, on the drops you can see 0,5,10,20 etc. You can get a more accurate read on things.

What is the treatment stuff that you have?

I'd put a good test kit on the top of your to-get list when you're able, that will help to answer some of these questions. I don't know that they are directly related to the green water issue, but water quality is certainly directly related to the health of our fish, so it's a concern. For now, until you know if you are fully cycled or not, big frequent water changes are a good idea.

On a side note, your kh is pretty low, as well as your tap pH. You want kh to be somewhere around 100 in order to hold the pH stable, otherwise you can see drops in pH which is not good for your fish. So, you may want to start raising that a bit with baking soda. Take a look here and let us know if you have questions http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/110296-stabilizing-your-tank-ph-with-sodium-bicarbonate-baking-soda/

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Ah, iverstocking. A beautiful topic of debate indeed haha.

Currently I have only 3 fancys in a 125l tank. I think some consider that 1 fish too many. Going bigger isn't an option though. I'm going to do a big water change tonight, using API Stress Coat+. The filter media is gonna be rearranged as well, sponges in bottom etc. I have some more sponge coming too.

Ultimately I can see me soldiering on for the next week then deciding to redo everything and move it also.

If I was to do this, I'd need to use some quick start treatment stuff instead of cying though as the fish would be temporarily in tubs or something

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You can buy the API Master Test Kit for much cheaper online. I was shocked to see it being sold for $10-15, when it costs $40 at the local pet store! The strips are not only less accurate; they are much more expensive in the long run.

Some people really struggle to keep their nitrates down, for whatever reason. I am a bit overstocked by the standards here and yet I never have any nitrates. There was someone else on here who was doing water changes twice weekly, but still had a hard time keeping their nitrates below 40 ppm. I am curious about this, and would love to know more. I know Sharon is doing some research on it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Edited by *Amanda*

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I will be getting mine from Amazon then!

So I forgot to post, but the other day I rearranged the filter, 3 sponges on bottom, then ceramic rings, then bio balls on top, no carbon. Waters clearer. No problems. Haven't tested the water but it certainly looks a lot nicer!! When my new sponge comes I think I might add another layer of sponge to the bottom as well..

Edited by tithra
family forum - no swearing please

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