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Help with a water question


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My tank is towards the end of its cycle, ammonia is gone, nitrites are still high, nitrates are 20 ppm range. I do every other day water changes. I have some hornwort, anubias, anacharis, and had a real quick algae infestation. I had scrubbed the 3 walls one water change, then got the floor a couple days later leaving the back wall alone. Since then, I've had an algae bloom that has completely clouded the water. Its a green tint, not a milky cloud. Was looking for any advice or considerations that I dont have the expierence to recognize. Ammonia-0 Nitrites-2ppm salt-.02% ph-7.2 55gallon, 1 3.5" Lionhead 1 3.5" ryukin, every other day water changes API Stress Coat dechlorinator. Unsure as to how to post a pic. Much appreciated

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Green water isn't bad for the fish. However, a large WC will help lower your nitrites and clear the green algae, at least temporarily.

Also I would suggest looking into Prime for a water conditioner. It helps to detoxify ammonia and nitrite. I see you do have a bit of salt in the tank to help with nitrite toxicity. :D

What are your tap and tank pH? How large a WC are you doing every other day? :idont

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Ph on both are 7.2, i do 50% water change every other day. My LFS doesn't have a very good selection, so I'll order the Prime. I didn't think it would harm the fish since it looks like disturbed pond water, but it's been a couple days since I've had a clear view of my fishy friends. Annnd my 6 year old keeps sayin "Fixit" , and I keep sayin "We Gotta Let it Run", you can see how far these conversations can go. Appreciate it Fan!

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Ph on both are 7.2, i do 50% water change every other day. My LFS doesn't have a very good selection, so I'll order the Prime. I didn't think it would harm the fish since it looks like disturbed pond water, but it's been a couple days since I've had a clear view of my fishy friends. Annnd my 6 year old keeps sayin "Fixit" , and I keep sayin "We Gotta Let it Run", you can see how far these conversations can go. Appreciate it Fan!

You could elect to get a 9w UV to run in your tank for a little while. :)

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Alex, do you really think he should use UV while his tank is cycling? Often, during cell division of surface-dwelling microbes, one of the daughter cells floats off to find a new home. I think UV could slow the cycling process.

Lyinhead, what filter do you have? Are you using any aeration? If not, put some in. Air benefits nitrifiers much more than algae, so it can help tip the balance away from the green-water algae.

Since you mentioned cleaning the tank walls, I think you've figured this out, but I'd recommend cleaning only the front until you have a well-established cycle. I don't know that it is true, but my experience and comments from others suggest that the NOB (nitrite oxidizing bacteria) are more likely to take a hit from cleaning the tank too vigorously. Both the nitrifiers and the surface-growing algae compete with the green-water algae.

I think you are wise to wait this out. If you still have green water a month after your cycle is stable, then it could be considered a problem. Now it's just an unstable ecosystem.

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I've got an Emperor 400 Dual Bio-wheel 400 gph, Fluval C4 265 gph on the high end, 2 if the XY-2821 Dual Sponge filters, and a 24" bubble curtain that has ceramic weights to change the shape. It produces fine low resistance bubbles. I know that I'm well over the 10x rule with the HOB's especially with the dual bio wheel. I want the sponge filters cycled before I have any fry or I need to seed another tank. I also considered reducing photo time, or that my light May bright enough. It's an 180 led 4' light. I haven't found an accurate way calculating that one. Plants thrive, went low maintenance with those.

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And when it comes to cleaning, I learned after the very first cleaning not to be too aggressive. I spaced out the cleanings, and tested parameters in between to make sure there had been no impact before cleaning the other. The plants are in small terra cotta bonsai pots, with a gravel in them covering the piece of terra cotta that the plants are tied onto. For more BB to colonize on

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Yeah the Fluval has a medium bag in it with a sponge pad, ceramic rings, drip pad for lack of a better name. It drips water over the ring chamber for a wet/dry effect. The Emperor has 2 XL biobags that have charcoal in them, and I added 2 bags of bio balls in there as well. Since its a bare bottom tank, I added a lot of surface for BB

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Yeah the Fluval has a medium bag in it with a sponge pad, ceramic rings, drip pad for lack of a better name. It drips water over the ring chamber for a wet/dry effect. The Emperor has 2 XL biobags that have charcoal in them, and I added 2 bags of bio balls in there as well. Since its a bare bottom tank, I added a lot of surface for BB

Personally, I would get rid of the activated charcoal. The ceramic biomedia and sponge pads are great, and the ceramic media last a really really long time. It also helps to place a 50-100-micron pad after the biomedia for a "polishing" effect.

The reason I don't use charcoal anymore is because it's not really needed in the tank full time. It also has a short effectiveness time, after which it needs to be replaced or it might leach harmful compounds into the water, based on what I've read about it. It can, however, be added temporarily to help remove medications from the water after treatment.

Just hang in there and keep doing water changes - I know the nitrite storm seems to last forever!! [emoji4]

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Edited by *Amanda*
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