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Rescued goldies--not sure I'm doing the right things for them


Sara Shissler

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From my research on goldfish, angelfish, rams, oscars, etc... most fish really should have way over what the filters are rated for. Goldfish in particular are poop machines and need the extra filtration. One thing to keep in mind on filter ratings is that they are rated for a flow rate with no media. Once you put in the filter media, that flow rate drops.

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I agree, but these are the same companies that will have a 3 gallon tank with a photoshopped picture that shows a goldfish in a 3 gallon tank. For what is it is worth, I really love the combo of canister and HOB. The canister has greater dwell time for biological filtration while the HOB does a better job with mechanical.

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Interesting. That doesn't make any sense to me that they rate the filters that way. Of course you have to put media in it! If I had known that I would have gotten a bigger one to begin with. Oh, well....

I think it is better to have two filters instead of just one big one. That way if one filter goes out, then you have one running while you get the other one repaired. This happened to me!

Here is some information on filters that was written in 2005: http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/page/index.html/_/aquatic-equipment/filters-and-maintenance-r244

Some of the info maybe a bit outdated, but reading that helped me to understand more about filteration for goldfish.

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Well, I guess I won't be too upset about the filter then. Is it urgent that I get another filter, or can it wait a month or two as long as the water quality tests are coming up ok? I've been spending lots of money on these fish lately!

I have the prazipro and the pickling salt, so dnalex, I'm ready when you are!

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Well, I guess I won't be too upset about the filter then. Is it urgent that I get another filter, or can it wait a month or two as long as the water quality tests are coming up ok? I've been spending lots of money on these fish lately!

I have the prazipro and the pickling salt, so dnalex, I'm ready when you are!

Regarding the filter, I don't think it is urgent if you are able to increase your water changes. The API water testing does measure some of the things that will irritate the fish, but it doesn't measure everything.

One option is to get a used filter on craigslist. If you go this route, you'll want to use new media though (after disinfecting the filter). I've read of many people on this forum that do this.

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Hi Sara. I just wanted to pop in and say that I think you are doing a wonderful thing by rescuing and caring for these goldies :) I wish you the best of luck and hope everyone is on the mend and super healthy in no time.

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For Morton's (since it's finer grain) it's 3/4tsp. So you'll need 30 of those per one gallon container.

This will strip off any external yuckies and excess slime coat on the body, making the prazi pro more effective.

You'll want to set a stopwatch (you can use one on your phone or this here )'and leave the fish in for no more than 5 minutes, it's okay if they don't make it the full five but let them try. The fish may begin to tilt over but you can give them a little nudge or two (I find that giving the base of their tail a very gentle squeeze with two fingers gets them going) to keep them swimming longer.

It's suggested that you place the fish in a bucket with cool water with an airstone but I find that the aquarium with the lights off provides a nice relaxing environment as well.

The dose for prazi pro is 1 capful per 20 gallons. :)

Here's the thread on using prazi, you can consult with Alex for the actual treatment of course.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.invisionzone.com/forum/index.php?/topic/105076-schedules-for-the-treatment-of-flukes-etc-using-praziquantel/

I've let him know your post needs attention. :D

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They don't like it but it can make them feel better afterwards if they have a heavy flukes infestation, for example. Must relieve some discomfort when it's stripped off. :)

If you see them beginning to not respond, take them out immediately. Some fish just don't handle salt dips as well as others.

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When you do the salt dips, make sure the water temps are relatively the same between tank and salt dip container. Also make sure the pH difference is not > 0.5.

It is a bit weird to do the salt dip, but after a couple of times you'll see that the results are beneficial.

I actually had to watch a video on youtube to get up the courage to do a salt dip. After watching the goldfish's reaction during the salt dip, I felt assured that it was okay.

Like Cat says, they don't like it but they feel better afterwards.

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Then I guess I won't be starting until tomorrow. Is the only way to get the Ph down to age the water? I haven't done that yet.

On the praziquentel protocol page, it says to add salt to the tank. If I'm doing dips, does that mean no salt in the tank? Also, do you know which dosing schedule I should use?

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I just want to say best of luck treating your fish.

I just want to add that the little critters on your glass might be planaria. I haven't dealt with them before, but my husband has in his tropical tank. I can't offer you any advice, but perhaps a mod might have some input?

It could also be detritus worms, which thankfully aren't harmful except to eggs and fry. Upping maintenance alone will keep populations in check. It's important to know which one you have, though.

So, do goldfish need more filtration than other types of fish? When I bought the filter it said it was good for tanks up to a size of 75 gallons. I thought I was overdoing it!

I do triple filtration on all of my tanks, at least:)

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Then I guess I won't be starting until tomorrow. Is the only way to get the Ph down to age the water? I haven't done that yet.

On the praziquentel protocol page, it says to add salt to the tank. If I'm doing dips, does that mean no salt in the tank? Also, do you know which dosing schedule I should use?

Go ahead and start the aging process (with an airstone for water movement). I'll report your post to a mod so they can give you guidance on starting the prazi treatment. You'll need to do a water change before dosing the tank with prazi. So you'll need lots of water to start this salt dip and prazi process. Even though you may not start until tomorrow, it would be good to know your exact protocol now so you are prepared.

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I just want to say best of luck treating your fish.

I just want to add that the little critters on your glass might be planaria. I haven't dealt with them before, but my husband has in his tropical tank. I can't offer you any advice, but perhaps a mod might have some input?

It could also be detritus worms, which thankfully aren't harmful except to eggs and fry. Upping maintenance alone will keep populations in check. It's important to know which one you have, though.

I don't think they are worms. They are flat, and oval-shaped. Semi-transparent, and brownish. At first I thought they were fish eggs, but fish eggs don't move to different spots overnight! The nearest thing I could find a description of online was copepods, but I'm hardly an expert. They are less than a millimeter long, so it is very hard to get a good look at them. I tried to take a picture, but I couldn't get a good one. Maybe I'll try again tonight.

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Hi Sara,

You have gotten incredible support so far, and would like everyone who has helped. The spirit of community that is prevalent on this forum is something that is not see anywhere else! :)

Before we embark on the treatment, there are a couple things that we need:

1. check gills on all fish. The salt dip can be lethal to fish who display gill issues. So, it's important to do check. Otherwise, the salt dip is quite a valuable treatment. In fact, I just did one for one of my black ranchus. :)

2. see if you can get Kanaplex, or if not, Triple Sulfa, or Maracyn. There could be secondary infections, so this is something that we just want to have on hand, not to use if we can help it.

3. salt will be in the tank at 0.1% as well as the salt dip. This low dose salt has its own usefulness, including antiparasite functions.

4. you can go ahead and use the weekly prazi schedule.

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Then, today, we are going to do a test salt dip at 1%.

SALT DIP
1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (10 grams/Liter, or 37.8g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.
2. prepare a holding tank. This is a tank that is pH/temp matched with the main tank, and has been de-chlorinated. This can be a 5 gallon tub, with bubblestone, or something bigger.
3. make sure you have some sort of timer
4. gently lift the fish out of the tank, and place into temp/pH matched salt solution.
5. start timer.
6. if the fish stays continues to stay upright, or tilts over but can get back up, keep him/her in the salt solution for exactly 5 minutes.
7. remove fish from the salt, and place in holding tank. The reason why we do this is to: 1) give the fish a place to recover by him/herself, and 2)to let the fish purge out ammonia/wastes in a place that is not the main tank.
8. if the fish starts to lose balance and cannot get back before the minutes, remove him/her and place in holding tank, as described in #6.
9. after 1-2 hours, the fish can be moved back to the main tank. He/She might still be disoriented, but should be fine.

The holding tank is optional, but is useful. :)

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Hi Sara,

You have gotten incredible support so far, and would like everyone who has helped. The spirit of community that is prevalent on this forum is something that is not see anywhere else! :)

Before we embark on the treatment, there are a couple things that we need:

1. check gills on all fish. The salt dip can be lethal to fish who display gill issues. So, it's important to do check. Otherwise, the salt dip is quite a valuable treatment. In fact, I just did one for one of my black ranchus. :)

2. see if you can get Kanaplex, or if not, Triple Sulfa, or Maracyn. There could be secondary infections, so this is something that we just want to have on hand, not to use if we can help it.

3. salt will be in the tank at 0.1% as well as the salt dip. This low dose salt has its own usefulness, including antiparasite functions.

4. you can go ahead and use the weekly prazi schedule.

Yes, I am very grateful to everyone! These fish have a lot of help!

What am I looking for in a gill check?

I have Kanaplex and everything else.

Then, today, we are going to do a test salt dip at 1%.

SALT DIP

1. dissolve 30 teaspoons salt/gallon of water (10 grams/Liter, or 37.8g/gallon). This concentration is 3%. Let it match the temp/pH of the tank, and make sure to add de-chlorinator. You can also use tank water, but because you are adding a lot of salt per gallon, you will need to heat up the water. Hence, it's crucial that you cool it back down.

I'm a little confused--is the first salt dip to be 1% or 3 %?

I really appreciate all of your help!

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Ok, I don't see anything that strikes me as odd about the gills. They hardly move except for a little when the fish turn.

The fantail and the oranda look pinkish on the inside, but I don't know if that is just because the skin is so pale there.

The oranda is also definitely missing a scale on his side, but he has every since I got him. I don't know whether or not the salt would irritate that.

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