Jump to content

Translucent spots on Blackmoor tail


karens

Recommended Posts

  • Regular Member
  • * Ammonia Level (.25)
  • * Nitrite Level (0)
  • * Nitrate level(40 ppm)
  • * Ph Level, Tank (7.5)
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Test Kit
  • * Water temperature (68.8)
  • * Tank size (45 gals.) and how long has it been running? 9 months
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter? Eheim 2217
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? 1X weekly, 20 to 25%
  • * 2 goldfish - blackmoor & oranda - 3.5"
  • • Water additives - Prime, Stability
  • • Fish are fed 2x a day, 5 each Omega One sinking pellets or mix of vegetables and cooked shrimp

Hi All,

My blackmoor has small, pale, translucent spots on her tail as well as well as lines of similar looking lines on the leading edge of the pectoral fins.

She's presented this for three weeks. Last week I treated with Pimafix and I think has helped but not cleared it up. My LFS has suggest treating with both Pimafix and Melafix for both fungal and bacterial coverage. Any ideas of what this could be and if this is the right fix? Both fish are acting normally and are quite active.

I'd really appreciate some feedback. I got the moor from a really awful tank and have pulled her through and number is medical issues so I'm on a mission to keep her healthy!

Thanks, KarenS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hello and welcome to the forum. :hi

Pictures are necessary to get the accurate help you need. Also, please provide us with your tap parameters, we need to know if your tap contains any ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. I've also noticed that your water changes are only 20-25% once a week. I think you may need to increase that to at least 50% weekly. Goldfish are messy creatures, and keeping their water pristine will help keep them healthy and happy. :)

Good luck, I hope he pulls through for you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member
  • * Ammonia Level(Tank) 0
  • * Nitrite Level(Tank) 0
  • * Nitrate level(Tank) 40 ppm
  • * Ammonia Level(Tap) 0
  • * Nitrite Level(Tap) 0
  • * Nitrate level(Tap) 0
  • * Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 7.6
  • * Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines 7.6

+ did another 25% water change today with Prime & Stability - total for the week 50%

Hi All,

Well, I did my best to get a few good pictures of my Blackmoor's tail spots. I've stopped using the Pimafix as I don't think it's doing the job.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, KarenS

http://s883.photobucket.com/user/karensibley/library/

Edited by karens
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Did you try Melafix? To me, it looks like it could be thickening of the slime coat, and this is more easily seen on darker fish.

I would do salt to 0.2%, and treat for flukes if you haven't already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

About the same. I've stopped the Pimafix and am going to start Melafix in the morning.

Hopefully I'll see improvement.

Salt has been mentioned by a couple of people, but I have live plants.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

About the same. I've stopped the Pimafix and am going to start Melafix in the morning.

Hopefully I'll see improvement.

Salt has been mentioned by a couple of people, but I have live plants.

Can you move him to a separate quarantine tank? Salt is really important to help him heal. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hi Georgia,

I've gone back and forth with putting her in a quarantine tank but I worry that the separation stress would be bad for her.

She's really tight with her tank mate.

I'm thinking dynalex is right about it being a slime coat issue.

I've taken your advice and increased my water changes and have seen some improvement. Thanks!

I mentioned a few days ago that I was going to start with Melafix but I've held off until I do my scheduled water change tonight.

Hopefully this will clear it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Keep us updated, please :)

I would like to make this point about the need to QT -

Yes, there will absolutely be stressed from separation, but that will be outweighed by your ability to treat the fish more effectively, to treat only the sick fish, and to use the proper means of treatment. Hesitating to use QT could result in the sick fish not getting better, and other fish being affected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Thanks dnalex for your opinion to QT her.

I'll definitely get her into a QT if the Melafix treatment I'm current doing doesn't cure the issue.

I'm seeing improvement after two days so I'll finish this course.

You mention that other fish could be affected. Is the thickened slime coat considered a disease?

I'm a newbie at this (since last December).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Thickened slime coat can occur in response to parasites or some other threat. The slime is a protective response mounted by the fish to try to get rid of whatever's affecting it. :)

Good luck, and please keep us updated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Regular Member

So I started to set my QT last week and got called out of town before I could finish. I quickly did a 20% water change and added 1/4 dose of salt to the main tank due to the plants. I came back last night to find my Oranda now has a small white spot on the tail and has lost a scale on the back close to the dorsal fin, YIKES! The Moor isn't any worse but not any better. I plan on pulling the plants and snails tonight and putting them in the 6 gallon tank. I'll do my weekly water change a day early and then go with a full dose of aquarium salt. The Pimafix and Melafix haven't helped. And now with the Oranda affected I'm not sure if I should be using any further meds as well. Should I treat for flukes as you mention earlier dnalex? Something stronger for bacterial or fungal? I'm not really sure what is affecting them. Both fish are not showing any unusual behavior, and are eating well. I really want to get this clear up.

Just a note: I've also realized recently that I been goofing up my water levels by leaving the ceramic filter media out of the water too long during cleaning and probably oxygen starving the good bacteria.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I went to my LFS with the pics of Tish's spots. They suggested getting my water parameters in line first, along with adding salt before medicating.

Since then I've been done four 30% water changes (every other day) and have almost have my numbers in line. I'm finding it tough to bring down the nitrate.

Nitrate was 10ppm (down from 40ppm) before last night's change. I'll check tonight and see where it is.

I've noticed improvement in the spots. They're not totally cleared by any means but they look smaller. Both fish are feeling quite good and eating well.

Do you think I should introduce the Prazipro now or get the nitrate levels balanced and continue salt?

Thanks so much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

I'm not sure what you mean getting nitrate levels balanced? Ideally nitrates should be kept below 20ppm at all times. :)

I would start the Prazi. I don't think the spots will go away with just salt and clean water. It will help, certainly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Regular Member

Hi Karen,

I have to say I am not a fan of Melafix/Pimafix. IMHO these should not be used to treat an active infection. I use Prazi Pro for flukes and Maracyn for fungus. The good thing is that a lot of these problems become much less frequent as you advance in the hobby and your water quality improves, which is a lot less stressful for you and the fish! Now I pretty much only have to worry about it with new fish, which I quarantine for at least a month before adding to my main tank.

Also, for goldfish I would do more than 25% water changes - I do 50% weekly but a lot of people will even do that twice a week. Goldfish produce a TON of waste. The smaller water changes are recommended more for tropicals.

Glad to hear your fish is doing better!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Hi Karen,

I'm really glad that things are working out! :D

Hi Karen,

I have to say I am not a fan of Melafix/Pimafix. IMHO these should not be used to treat an active infection. I use Prazi Pro for flukes and Maracyn for fungus. The good thing is that a lot of these problems become much less frequent as you advance in the hobby and your water quality improves, which is a lot less stressful for you and the fish! Now I pretty much only have to worry about it with new fish, which I quarantine for at least a month before adding to my main tank.

Also, for goldfish I would do more than 25% water changes - I do 50% weekly but a lot of people will even do that twice a week. Goldfish produce a TON of waste. The smaller water changes are recommended more for tropicals.

Glad to hear your fish is doing better!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hi Amanda,

I agree with you completely about the Melafix/Pimafix. While I think that they could work for some minor things, these minor things will also resolve given some extra WCs and upped maintenance. :)

As for using Maracyn (active ingredient erythromycin) to treat fungal infections, I have two comments:

1. In most cases, fungal infections of goldfish are on the rarer side, and when it does happen, salt to 0.3% or 0.4% will usually suffice.

2. While some antibiotics may also exhibit antifungal effects, erythromycin is not one of them. I don't know if Mardel intentionally makes an incorrect claim, or they are being misleading, but erythromycin cannot be used to treat a true fungal infection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Regular Member

Thanks dnalex, that's good to know! Yes, Mardel does claim that Maracyn can treat fungus, right on the box. It is likely that my fish had a bacterial infection that looked like a fungal infection; from what I hear it can often be hard to tell the difference and I now know fungal infections usually present secondary to bacterial infections when they do occur.

And yes, I agree completely that good water quality is the best prevention. :-)

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...