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Fraying and deep red blood in tail.


Scarlett

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Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level(Tank) 0.25 ppm

* Nitrite Level(Tank) 0 ppm

* Nitrate level(Tank) 5 ppm

* Ammonia Level(Tap) 0 ppm

* Nitrite Level(Tap) 0 ppm

* Nitrate level(Tap) 5 ppm

* Ph Level, Tank (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 6.8

* Ph Level, Tap (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines) 6.0

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? API Master Test Kit Drops

* Water temperature? 24 C

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 200 litres - approximately 2 -3 years.

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Rena Filstar 1100

* How often do you change the water and how much? 50% change every five days.

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today - 100% change.

* How many fish in the tank and their size? Four fish. 2 x 12cm, 1 x 10cm and 1 x 7cm.

* What kind of water additives or conditioners? Prime, pH up & Stability.

* What do you feed your fish and how often? Hikari Oranda pellets, Bloodworms & Goldfish dinner. They are fed 2 - 3 times a day.

* Any new fish added to the tank? No

* Any medications added to the tank? Pimafix and salt.

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. 11th August - 10 day course of Sterezen.

21st August - 10 day course of Myazin.

25th August - crushed coral added to filter to try and raise pH.

31st August - 10 day course of Protozin.

13th September - Pimafix & salt.

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? Frayed tail and deep blood red streaks in tails of two fish.

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? Back in August a couple of the fish started flashing and scratching on the bottom on the tank, but without any other symptoms. I went through the three different types of medication to eliminate the cause one by one. This has since stopped.

During this time, the red cap Oranda developed some pink blood streaks in his tail. A water change and air stone seemed to cure the condition mostly.

Now, a few weeks later, he is much worse and his tail has now started to fray. In an effort to help him, I did a water change, added 1 teaspoon of salt per 40 litres of water and added Pimafix, which claims to aid in the healing of tail & fin rot and redness of skin and body. It's an all natural product, so I'm not entirely sure how effective it will be.

The only major difference I have changed recently is adding the crushed coral to the filter at a rate of 1/2 a cup per 90 litres (20 gallons). I have since removed it as of today to see of it makes any difference.

A second fish is now showing bloody blotches in her tail too, so I'm really hoping someone has some clue as to what is going on.

Here are photos of the two fish with the affliction.

Posted Image

Posted Image

It's harder to see on the orange fish as her symptoms are not as bad.

They are still acting normally and eating well. Their poo is normal too.

Any ideas???

Edited by Scarlett
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Sorry, I should have clarified. The parameters were taken before the water change.

Also, I thought I'd better mention that I am from Australia, so any treatment suggestions must be readily available in Australia. Prazipro etc is not available here.

Edited by Scarlett
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The parameters from this morning are as follows:

pH: 7.2

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Nitrate: 0 ppm

Ammonia: 0 ppm

I think the zero Nitrates are due to the 100% water change.

Amazingly I think Adonis is actually looking a little better this morning. I went and spoke with the local fish shop owner and he thinks that the hardness of my water could be to blame. That might explain why this happened after adding the crushed coral and why it is starting to look better now I have removed it. I would like to hear what others think.

Thanks. :)

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That red cap is starting with fin rot as seen from those frayed edges on his tail. I think you've some kinda toxin in your system, it's definitely not caused by those coral chips you've put in and as a matter of fact, coral chips are good, it helps with your carbonate hardness which in turns stabilized your Ph. Since you've a Ph 6.0 from the tap you should be adding a couple teaspoon of Mckenzie's Bi-Carb Soda. You can get this from Coles or Wollies at the baking section. This will also bring up your Ph and there is no need to add Ph Up either. What you need to buy is a KH/GK water test kit (APi is a good brand). There are good instructions in there to help you with it's uses.

I'm not a big fan of using Primafix, salt is a better alternative here. You should maintain it @0.3% that's 3gm per L of tank water. (200L= you'll need 600gm). You can buy a big 20 kg back of pool salt from Bunnings or BW for about $8.(it's Aussie salt). You need to maintain it at this concentration for at least two weeks or until your fish have fully recovered.(need to remove all plants first b4 salting)

Btw have your ever done any vacuuming of your gravel when you do w/cs and how thick is your gravel bed? The problem with using gravels are, while it may looks nice but the downside is that it can caused a lot a problems if you have to medicate your tank. Some of this medicines residues may still be lurking somewhere underneath and can counter react with each other giving out a tank full of chemicals. From hindsight to me keeping everything simple is usually the better alternative as keeping goldfish is rather easy and fun.

Good luck

Cheers :)

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I want to switch to sand, but I'm afraid of bumping my cycle. I guess that if the gravel is the problem, it's worth the risk.

I do vacuum the gravel thoroughly every water change.

Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated on his progress. :)

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So I had my water tested and apparently it is so soft that he thought it had come out of a puratap! It was under 50, not that it means a lot to me. I must buy a kit of my own so I can test and learn about water hardness. He sold me some calcium turtles (the ones they use in turtle tanks) and said to put a third of a turtle every two weeks should harden it up.

Adonis is looking bright and happy this morning. His tail is possibly a little clearer.

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I want to switch to sand, but I'm afraid of bumping my cycle. I guess that if the gravel is the problem, it's worth the risk.

I do vacuum the gravel thoroughly every water change.

Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated on his progress. :)

Your current gravel looks beautiful anyway, why want to change? If you were to switch to sand, you're also have to deal with more or less with he same issue. Furthermore if it's fine sand, during vacuuming those fine dust/debris will make your water very cloudy and also they may get into your pump's impeller.

Bare bottom is better but not to say you must have that for gfs. For gravel so long you maintain it weekly and not fill up to a depth of more than 2 inches thick, you'll be alright.(too thick gravel makes it very hard and time consuming to clean)

My low maintenance spare 200L graveled/planted tank. Anubias started with only one pot, now 6 yrs later, have never done any cleaning under it.

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So Adonis isn't any worse, but he isn't any better. I've been thinking about the idea of something toxic being in my gravel, so two and a half hours ago I decided I was going to clear the tank and make it bare bottom. It's done. I've added more salt and more Pimafix. Hoping for a drastic improvement in Adonis after all that hard work. I didn't clean my filter, so there is still BB in the cycle. I will test daily for the next week or two to keep an eye on things though.

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