Recovering from fin rot and wen problems

[tarannosaurus 24]

There have been two incidents where the goldfish would bleed out during a salt dip. I know that this is not what you want to hear, but I think that this is actually a big indication that his gills have really badly infected, and while it did appear as though he was getting better, I think he would have declined again, as soon as the meds are stopped, or even during.

I think the reason the fish bled was due to the salt making the flukes release their holds within the gills, and with a big infestation, I don't know that there was anyway we could have stopped it.

This is actually somewhat of a relief for me to hear. I wanted to understand what happened to him. What you said makes sense. I was certain all this time that I was the one responsible for this, but maybe it was inevitable.

My priority now is making sure the other goldfish are safe. Do you think the others could be carrying gill flukes? Would a prazi treatment in the main tank be effective for this?

[dnalex 13,633]

It is most definitely not your doing, and you already brought him back from the brink of death more than once. I am just sorry that it wasn't meant to be.

I do think that it's a very good idea to prazi the main tank. When was the last time they were treated? Before you prazi, though, I would like for you to have some broad spectrum waterborne antibiotic like kanamycin, erythromycin, or even furan-2 on hand. I know that you have Metro-Meds and Medi-Gold, and that is great.

[tarannosaurus 24]

It is most definitely not your doing, and you already brought him back from the brink of death more than once. I am just sorry that it wasn't meant to be.

I do think that it's a very good idea to prazi the main tank. When was the last time they were treated? Before you prazi, though, I would like for you to have some broad spectrum waterborne antibiotic like kanamycin, erythromycin, or even furan-2 on hand. I know that you have Metro-Meds and Medi-Gold, and that is great.

They were treated about four months ago. Yes, I have all of those medications except for kanamycin and furan-2. You want me to get both of those before anything?

[dnalex 13,633]

No, you are all set.

I would go ahead, and do one round and go from there.

[tarannosaurus 24]

No, you are all set.

I would go ahead, and do one round and go from there.

Okay, so you don't want me to use anything other than prazi right? And I'm still not using salt, right?

Another thing, I have a telescope goldfish that sucks air all day and then floats at night. This happens every single day and I've been trying to get him to stop. Recently my oranda has been pecking at him at night when he's floating. She only messes with him when he's vulnerable like that. Today my telescope has a little bloody spot next to one of his pelvic fins; I assume it's from the pecking.

[dnalex 13,633]

Let's go ahead and do the prazi, and withhold the salt for now.

Please update us daily, because we may want to have salt added. Thanks!

[tarannosaurus 24]

Okay. I am about to do a water change, but I wanted to get the GH and KH levels of my aquarium before I did and I am having a hard time reading results. KH turned yellow on the first drop and GH turned green on the third drop. This is the API test kit.

[dnalex 13,633]

Okay. I am about to do a water change, but I wanted to get the GH and KH levels of my aquarium before I did and I am having a hard time reading results. KH turned yellow on the first drop and GH turned green on the third drop. This is the API test kit.

As per the directions,

http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/GH_and_KH_Test_Kit_and_KH_Test_Kit_58-59_Insert.pdf

your kH is 17.9 ppm, while your gH is approximately 53.7ppm. The gH is OK, although it really should be somewhere in the 100-150ppm. Your kH is extremely low, and this can create problems for your cycle, your pH stability, and I believe it will also affect the health of your fish. kH too should be somewhere in the vicinity of 100-150ppm.

There are several ways of correcting the kH, including the use of commercial buffers, crushed coral, and baking soda. The easiest (also read cheapest lol) is baking soda, although the inconvenience here is that you have to add more with each WC.

Likewise, you can also boost gH with products from plant companies, or from Seachem and other places. Your gH technically falls into the range where it should be acceptable, although it is just my own personal hunch that having a gH from 100-150ppm is actually much better/healthier for goldfish.

[tarannosaurus 24]

Okay. I am about to do a water change, but I wanted to get the GH and KH levels of my aquarium before I did and I am having a hard time reading results. KH turned yellow on the first drop and GH turned green on the third drop. This is the API test kit.

As per the directions,

http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/GH_and_KH_Test_Kit_and_KH_Test_Kit_58-59_Insert.pdf

your kH is 17.9 ppm, while your gH is approximately 53.7ppm. The gH is OK, although it really should be somewhere in the 100-150ppm. Your kH is extremely low, and this can create problems for your cycle, your pH stability, and I believe it will also affect the health of your fish. kH too should be somewhere in the vicinity of 100-150ppm.

There are several ways of correcting the kH, including the use of commercial buffers, crushed coral, and baking soda. The easiest (also read cheapest lol) is baking soda, although the inconvenience here is that you have to add more with each WC.

Likewise, you can also boost gH with products from plant companies, or from Seachem and other places. Your gH technically falls into the range where it should be acceptable, although it is just my own personal hunch that having a gH from 100-150ppm is actually much better/healthier for goldfish.

Oooh okay thank you. I see that chart now. And I see the link to baking soda in your signature. I'll follow through with that.

I just checked the GH and KH for my tap and they are both 17.9. So I should be adding baking soda according to that number, right? Thanks for your patience.

[dnalex 13,633]

Yes, please.

After you add the baking soda, wait for at least 30 minutes, and then check the kH again.

Don't be surprised if your pH jumps up a little.

[tarannosaurus 24]

Alright I changed the water. These are the current tank parameters:

Ammonia: 0.1 ppm

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 5-10

pH: 7.6

KH: 107.4

GH: 17.9? Is this because of my plants?

[dnalex 13,633]

Alright I changed the water. These are the current tank parameters:

Ammonia: 0.1 ppm

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 5-10

pH: 7.6

KH: 107.4

GH: 17.9? Is this because of my plants?

Okay. I am about to do a water change, but I wanted to get the GH and KH levels of my aquarium before I did and I am having a hard time reading results. KH turned yellow on the first drop and GH turned green on the third drop. This is the API test kit.

As per the directions,

http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/GH_and_KH_Test_Kit_and_KH_Test_Kit_58-59_Insert.pdf

your kH is 17.9 ppm, while your gH is approximately 53.7ppm. The gH is OK, although it really should be somewhere in the 100-150ppm. Your kH is extremely low, and this can create problems for your cycle, your pH stability, and I believe it will also affect the health of your fish. kH too should be somewhere in the vicinity of 100-150ppm.

There are several ways of correcting the kH, including the use of commercial buffers, crushed coral, and baking soda. The easiest (also read cheapest lol) is baking soda, although the inconvenience here is that you have to add more with each WC.

Likewise, you can also boost gH with products from plant companies, or from Seachem and other places. Your gH technically falls into the range where it should be acceptable, although it is just my own personal hunch that having a gH from 100-150ppm is actually much better/healthier for goldfish.

Oooh okay thank you. I see that chart now. And I see the link to baking soda in your signature. I'll follow through with that.

I just checked the GH and KH for my tap and they are both 17.9. So I should be adding baking soda according to that number, right? Thanks for your patience.

You posted above that your tap gH is 17.9, and since you didn't do anything to boost the gH, it would stay at this very low level.

[tarannosaurus 24]

Right, but it was higher before I changed the water. Why is that? Should I do anything to raise it?

[tarannosaurus 24]

Also, that black streak on the oranda's fin doesn't seem to be improving.

[tarannosaurus 24]

Here is a link to a video. My oranda's caudal fin still looks pretty rough. Can you see that black streak on the edge? Is there anything else I can do to treat it and encourage regrowth? Also, should I do anything with the GH?

I'm sure you couldn't miss my floater. Hopefully that gel food can help him out.

[dnalex 13,633]

Right, but it was higher before I changed the water. Why is that? Should I do anything to raise it?

I really think that it would beneficial to the health of your tank, if you do raise it a bit. The simplest way is to get Seachem Equilibrium, along with a kH/gH test kit. The goal is 100-150ppm gH.

Also, that black streak on the oranda's fin doesn't seem to be improving.

Black streaks are not bad, but they will take some time to go away.

Here is a link to a video. My oranda's caudal fin still looks pretty rough. Can you see that black streak on the edge? Is there anything else I can do to treat it and encourage regrowth? Also, should I do anything with the GH?

I'm sure you couldn't miss my floater. Hopefully that gel food can help him out.

I can't see the video on my phone, but will view it as soon as I am able to get on my computer.

[tarannosaurus 24]

I add baking soda and equilibrium?

Alex thank you so much.

[dnalex 13,633]

I add baking soda and equilibrium?

Alex thank you so much.

Yes, and then check both to make sure that you are in the 100-150ppm range for both.

Eventually, you should have a pattern established of how much you need to add with each WC.

[tarannosaurus 24]

I add baking soda and equilibrium?

Alex thank you so much.

Yes, and then check both to make sure that you are in the 100-150ppm range for both.

Eventually, you should have a pattern established of how much you need to add with each WC.

I checked my water today:

Ammonia: Dropped to 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 5-10

pH: Dropped to 7.4

KH: 107.4

GH: 17.9

My pH dropped a little... I'm worried about it falling more. Is there a way to keep it constant? Would crushed coral work for that?

Additionally, if you think I could use crushed coral, should I still add baking soda and equilibrium?

[dnalex 13,633]

A pH going from 7.6 to 7.4 with the way we test doesn't really signify much, especially when you kH is 100+. I think you are fine.

Adding crushed coral is fine, if you have the space for it.