DSLR/Mirrorless Camera Settings for Optimal Fish Photography (Some Point and Shoots Cams as well)

[yafashelli 9,540]

Me next, please?!

I have a Kodak EasyShare Z981. Make it so easy that an infant could do it.

http://resources.kodak.com/support/pdf/en/manuals/urg01118/Z981_xUG_GLB_en.pdf

Starting at page 19-20

Thank you. If you don't hear back from me, in a little while, you'll know that I died trying...

#TechnologicallyGifted

Figured out all but the auto ISO. Nice.

Edited July 26, 2013 by yafashelli

[ElaineSelene 39]

I've read books about aquarium photography in the past and here is what they sugguested (I'm a photography student/semi-pro).

Rubber lens hood,

Low ISO,

ON CAMERA flash.

Put on the rubber lens hood then press it up to the glass. Use the flash. The rubber will block out any "flare" on the glass.

I've yet to do this to my goldfish but I've photographed my tropical fish with this and it worked.

[dnalex 13,633]

I'm sure the flash works well if you have the rubber lens hood where you can press it against the glass. However, without it, the flash is a problem.

[dnalex 13,633]

For the Sony Cybershot DSC-N2

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/DSCN2_handbook_EN.pdf

Instructions for manual settings are on pages 30-31.

If anyone has a camera that they need help with settings, please post your camera brand and model. I'll try to help.

[Sherry 43]

For the Sony Cybershot DSC-N2

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/DSCN2_handbook_EN.pdf

Instructions for manual settings are on pages 30-31.

If anyone has a camera that they need help with settings, please post your camera brand and model. I'll try to help.

Oh thank you. Mine is a Kodak easy share dx 6440.

[dnalex 13,633]

I'll look this up!

[bubbles22 483]

Darn, I don't think I have enough lighting in my tank I gave it a try but the auto ISO bumped the ISO to 3200 so the pictures came out really grainy/noisy.

[dnalex 13,633]

Darn, I don't think I have enough lighting in my tank I gave it a try but the auto ISO bumped the ISO to 3200 so the pictures came out really grainy/noisy.

Try to set the ISO limit at 1600 or 800.

[bubbles22 483]

Overall though, I think this technique works great if you have sufficient lighting Otherwise, as a suggestion, I would shine extra lights directly into the tank (like a desk lamp) for faster and better focus as well as a faster shutter speed since goldfish can be super wiggly and uncooperative at times

[dnalex 13,633]

Bubbles, I think that your point about better and/or more lights is a must.

However, as the article pointed out, and you can experiment with it as well, that once the lighting is sufficient, there is no additional benefit to increasing shutter speed, other than to make your photos darker.

[yafashelli 9,540]

I tried taking pics today, but they were coming out sooooo dark. What do you think is doing that? The only thing that I can't figure out how to change to "auto" is the ISO.

[dnalex 13,633]

I tried taking pics today, but they were coming out sooooo dark. What do you think is doing that? The only thing that I can't figure out how to change to "auto" is the ISO.

I think you may need to supplement some lights. Perhaps some clip ons?

Did you use flash, or no? You may have to use the flash.

[yafashelli 9,540]

I tried taking pics today, but they were coming out sooooo dark. What do you think is doing that? The only thing that I can't figure out how to change to "auto" is the ISO.

I think you may need to supplement some lights. Perhaps some clip ons?

Did you use flash, or no? You may have to use the flash.

I used no flash, and the lighting on my tank is beyond ridiculous. I'm wondering if the problem is the darkness in the rest of the room? My living room is caveman dark, at night.

[dnalex 13,633]

I always take pics with only the tank lights, and the rest of the room in darkness.

You set it at 1/125, f/5.6?

[yafashelli 9,540]

I always take pics with only the tank lights, and the rest of the room in darkness.

You set it at 1/125, f/5.6?

Everything is set right, except auto iso.

[dnalex 13,633]

Will you humor me and try to clip on light?

[yafashelli 9,540]

Will you humor me and try to clip on light?

Clipping on anything, for you, would be an honor.

You want the light over the tank? I'll just roll my embroidery light to face the other direction.

[dnalex 13,633]

Well, you light up my life, Tammy!

[yafashelli 9,540]

Did you see what I did there?

[dnalex 13,633]

Did you see what I did there?

Did you see what I did?

[yafashelli 9,540]

I'm trying to find an appropriate meme, but I'm coming up empty handed.

[ElaineSelene 39]

Darn, I don't think I have enough lighting in my tank I gave it a try but the auto ISO bumped the ISO to 3200 so the pictures came out really grainy/noisy.

Try to set the ISO limit at 1600 or 800.

I got some like these using that technique:

What I also reccomend is:

LOW aperature number

Shutter speed of about 1/100

ISO NO HIGHER THAN 800 Preferebly as low as you can go.

A SHORT lens.

[Ele 40]

All of those pictures look great! I definitely need to try this asap My little fish just moves so darn fast!

[tankxie 40]

I was just trying to take some good pictures of my fishy! This is a great article!

[rhyan 19]

Hi there. I've just read the article and I have some pros and cons to it. I just want to share my experience on taking pictures of aquariums in different conditions. Here is a link to some of my pictures I have taken both of my aquarium and in public locations.

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjxY3rNB

So, here are my guides:

1. Reflections: Reflections are always a problem, however reflections occur when there is more light outside the aquarium, rather than inside. Easiest way to fight reflections is to stay in the dark. So when you're taking pictures of your aqua turn off your ambient light and let the aquarium glow. Your camera will still be able to focus as there is enough light for it in the tank.

REMEMBER: Turn off your built-in flash unless you are reaaaaaallllly close to the glass and the reflection is not visible.

2. Aperture - using large aperture is tricky - if you use aperture 1.8 or 2.8 - you will have a reaally shallow depth of field (focus zone). This means that only some part of your fish will be focused. This will allow you however speeds around 1/80 to 1/160 depending on your tank light and ISO settings. So, if you're not using flash, you definitely depend on large aperture to get focused pictures without motion blur.

3. Flashing - sure you can use flash, however it must always be external. I am using flash all the time in my pics, it is positioned on one side of the aqua or sometimes I place it on top of it, replacing the aquarium lighting. Using an external flash is really rewarding - you can use smaller aperture (f8 - f16) and you are not slave to the speed. You can take as good pictures in 1/160 as well as 1/16 both on lowest ISO setting. The results are slightly different, but overall you don't get blurred shots.

WHY or HOW? - the fact is that the presence of light causes the blur, not the absence of it. It is hard to understand at first, but it is simple. Imagine the following - you have been in the club where there is this white, flashing strobe that blinks very fast, and it seems to you that you see dancing movements like stills - the persons in front of you just stop in a split second and on the next flash they've changed their postures. It is not that they're not moving in the darkness, it is just you don't see it.

The same happens with your camera - if you stay in a dark room, your camera is set to iso 100 aperture to 8 and your speed to 1/16, and you do not use a flash, you will hardly get anything else but a dark black picture. If there is an external flash above the aquarium, that flashes for just a split second - you will get all your fish frozen in that split second. Taking the same picture on speed 1/160 will produce merely the same result. The difference will be in the contrast of the picture and the dark zones - the pic on 1/160 should be darker in shadows, more contrasty. Of course flashing at 1/160 of a second puts more stress on your strobe, so your next shot will be delayed a bit. So, if you can get a remotely controlled flash unit above the tank - use it confidently, and remember ALWAYS avoid the built-in one.

4. Lens types - you are not limited to using MACRO or MICRO lens. Any kinds of lens are good as long as you know what you're doing. My latest pictures are shot with 50-150 mm lens from about 1.50 to 2 meters from the aquarium. Zoomed to the max (150mm) produces the so called 'close-up' photos. They are not macro shots, but you can see enough detail on the fish and scales. My older pics are made with my older lens 50mm 1.8 and 18-70 kit lens. Using longer lens to me was more rewarding than 'pressing' the camera next to the glass. WHY? Because it solves several problems - 1st fish do not get upset or nervous, 2nd I am avoiding reflections caused by the aquarium light, 3rd I have more control on the pic as I see more - using zoom lens I can focus on single fish and then fast get back and get a group shot.

5. Point and shoot cameras - to my opinion are pretty much incapable of taking adequate photos as they lack a lot of control.

So - yes, the article on Nikon page says the truth, but it does not show all the aspects of fish photography, neither all the options you have.