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hana

dying goldy please help

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Hi

from 6 monthes

I have 2 goldies - 1 inch each - in 30 liters tank, filter, motor, there are gravels and i put bacteria for reducing ammonia weekly, changing 15 liters weekly.

but unfortionatelu i do not have strips to test water and could not get them this period

from two days i found one of them as if standing on tail looking up

yesterday it stopped eating and still lying at the battom of the tank

today she is lying at the bottom on side near ball where air bubbles come from trying to move up but failing to do so

i made a 6 liter water change yesterday and today

i fell scales some how rise at stomach but not much and not swollen stomach

is this dropsy?

is there anything i can do to save ?

thanks a lot

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First, I am going to have a mod move this to the Diagnosis and Discussion section. Second, we are going to need you to answer all of the following questions, especially your water parameters. A moderator can help you after that, alright? :)

* Ammonia Level (tank):

* Nitrite Level (tank)

* Nitrate level (Tank)

* Ammonia Level (Tap):

* Nitrite Level (Tap)

* Nitrate level (Tap)

* Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

* Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* Water temperature?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.)

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video.

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Please feel in This form

This forum is for goldfish in need of help or just general disease discussion.

Please copy & paste fill the following form and fill it out to the best of your ability when requesting help for Goldfish Problems:

Test Results for the Following:

* Ammonia Level (tank):

* Nitrite Level (tank)

* Nitrate level (Tank)

* Ammonia Level (Tap):

* Nitrite Level (Tap)

* Nitrate level (Tap)

* Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

* Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)?

* What kind of water additives or conditioners?

* Water temperature?

* How often do you change the water and how much?

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?

* How many fish in the tank and their size?

* What do you feed your fish and how often?

* Any new fish added to the tank?

* Any medications added to the tank?

* List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.)

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.

* You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video.

Mods I think this needs to be moved to d&d or 999

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first and forgive me if i am wrong.I would not be adding bacteria. You need to do water changes every day for a month. you need a Air stone too, as that get more oxygen in to the water. you need to stop feeding the ill fish as he may be constipated. so give him a day of no food and then offer half a pea. water changes every day will help to control the Amonia . do a 50% water change a day and a 90% water change ones a week for at least a month .

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first and forgive me if i am wrong.I would not be adding bacteria. You need to do water changes every day for a month. you need a Air stone too, as that get more oxygen in to the water. you need to stop feeding the ill fish as he may be constipated. so give him a day of no food and then offer half a pea. water changes every day will help to control the Amonia . do a 50% water change a day and a 90% water change ones a week for at least a month .

Crabs it is not a good idea to give any diagnosis until we have all information. ;)

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Since OP said they can't test the water themselves I don't know how helpful it is to just turn around and say give us the parameters as they would if they could. OP also said they have an air stone or bubbler of some kind in there.

Hi and welcome to Kokos. Im sorry your fish is having problems. Can you have your water tested at a local fish store or pet store? Have them give you specific numbers like .25 ammonia as opposed to "safe." Bring a bag of water from the tank, and a bag of water from the tap and have them test both and record the results.

In the mean time, could you please tell us what kind of filter you have, what bacteria you have been adding to the tank, and what sort of food you are feeding them? This would be helpful to know. Also, what water conditioner, if any has been used to detoxify the tap water?

Unfortunately 30 liters is too small, goldfish need about 40-60 liters per fish. Are you able to get a larger tank or another 30+ liter container to house them separately? When you are able to buy a water test kit, get a liquid kind as opposed to a strip kind as they are more accurate :) If you cant afford them all, get ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and pH as priority.

I know it is a lot of questions and a lot to remember but it will help us help you and your fish.

Edited by GreenTea

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* Ammonia Level (tank):

* Nitrite Level (tank)

* Nitrate level (Tank)

* Ammonia Level (Tap):

* Nitrite Level (Tap)

* Nitrate level (Tap)

* Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

* Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)

Other Required Info:

* Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops?not have and cannot get it these days

* What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? hopar h-6800

* What kind of water additives or conditioners? tape water after 24 hours kept in open container

* Water temperature?not know

* How often do you change the water and how much?twice a week 7 or 8 liters each

* How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change?today

* Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running?30 liters - 6 month

* How many fish in the tank and their size?2 - 1 insh each

* What do you feed your fish and how often?dried worms and sinking pellets

* Any new fish added to the tank?no

* Any medications added to the tank?no

* List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) sometimes when eating pellets the goldy stay upside down for hours

* Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus?no

* Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.?2 days ago

* List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment.none

* You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video.

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sorry i cannot give all parameters

bacteriia: bionitrivic-sera

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Well it seems that there is a LOT of gunk on the bottom of your tank.

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Unfortunately, without knowing your parameters we cannot give you treatment advice. Is it possible to bring water to a local fish or petstore to have them test the water for you? Most places do it for free.

If not, all we can really say is do water changes.

Sent from my SCH-I535

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sorry but i want to ask a strang qestion:

is there any testing kits sold at pharmacies

as near fish stores has no testing kits and i is difficult to go to far stores

thanks

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sorry but i want to ask a strang qestion:

is there any testing kits sold at pharmacies

as near fish stores has no testing kits and i is difficult to go to far stores

thanks

Not as far as i'm aware, however you can buy test kits online from sites like amazon. Simply search for API master kit.

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2 goldies shouldn't be kept in a tank that small. They need 20 gallons each. :)

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you can get the kits on ebay too.

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Hanan,

I understand. They do not sell testing kits (only ineffective strips) at my local stores either. Frankly, I'm not even sure they would test my water for me if I asked. I order almost all of my supplies online - usually on ebay as ebay sellers will often ship to countries other traditional sellers will not.

I am sorry your fish looks so bad. As the others have mentioned, really water changes is all that can be recommended. I see that you are aging your water - letting it sit for 24 hours. We used to do that but our lives became much easier after we got our hands on some Prime. We could do larger water changes more frequently. I recommend it.

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:(

my goldy died

i want to ask some qestions for the other:

1- is 10% water change weekly enough for one goldy in 30 liters?

2- is it important to put bacteria weekly or stop?

3- is feeding dried worms onday and fish sinking granules the otherday good?

4- is it possible to put any other type of fish with this goldy (as guppy)?

thanks a lot

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my goldy died

i want to ask some qestions for the other:

1- is 10% water change weekly enough for one goldy in 30 liters?

2- is it important to put bacteria weekly or stop?

3- is feeding dried worms onday and fish sinking granules the otherday good?

4- is it possible to put any other type of fish with this goldy (as guppy)?

thanks a lot

1 - 10% weekly on a 30L is nowhere near enough to keep that water inhabittable. Your tank is the equivalent of 7 gallons so even with a single fish you are very much ovetstocked. Please consider buying a new tank that is at least 75L. In the mean time do as many water changes as you can manage. The more frequently you change water the better. It's not quantity, it's frequency that's important here

2 - you shouldn't be adding bacteria

3 - the type of food is not the concern at the moment. Please be aware that goldfish don't have a true stomach so it doesn't take long for food to pass through and cause waste. Waste creates ammonia which is extremely harmful so please keep feeding to a minimum for the time being

4 - as I stated above you are very overstocked as you are already so please don't plan for tank mates. Also any small fish such as guppies would simply turn into expensive food.

Edited by MummyDJ

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Hi Hanan,

I'm sorry your fish died. Mummy has given some good advice about getting a larger tank, even for one fish. We kept Newton, the fish below in the signature line, in a 60ish liter alone for about a year before he got his larger tank (we are planning to add another fish).

I honestly don't think that it is a matter of frequency over quantity with water changes. Until you can get another tank and a test kit, change virtually all the water (leave the fish in with just enough water so he can swim) two times a week. Once you get the test kit, you will be able to tell more about the water chemistry.

No bacteria.

Make sure that you have only a thin layer of gravel and that you fill the tank to the top. You are trying to maximize the amount of water available to the fish.

If you would like more help with your set-up, you could post a picture of the entire tank in our tank section. We can try to help from there.

Again, I am very sorry you lost your fish :(

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thanks a lo for your advices but a full change twice a week is very difficult to do

can i change as i do 50% water change weeky

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May I ask why he shouldn't add 'bacteria'? I imagine he means good bacteria that comes in bottles, like Seachem's Stability. I add this every time I do a water change, isn't this a good thing? Don't mean to hijack the thread :)

Also wait for a mod to confirm, but they mean more like 50% twice weekly, the more you can do the better in this situation.

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May I ask why he shouldn't add 'bacteria'? I imagine he means good bacteria that comes in bottles, like Seachem's Stability. I add this every time I do a water change, isn't this a good thing? Don't mean to hijack the thread

Also wait for a mod to confirm, but they mean more like 50% twice weekly, the more you can do the better in this situation.

Andrea, it's simply not necessary to add good bacteria at every water change. Once your cycle has established, it should be more than sufficient to take care of all the ammonia and nitrite produced. Adding these supplements doesn't accomplish anything, except to cost money.

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May I ask why he shouldn't add 'bacteria'? I imagine he means good bacteria that comes in bottles, like Seachem's Stability. I add this every time I do a water change, isn't this a good thing? Don't mean to hijack the thread

Also wait for a mod to confirm, but they mean more like 50% twice weekly, the more you can do the better in this situation.

Andrea, it's simply not necessary to add good bacteria at every water change. Once your cycle has established, it should be more than sufficient to take care of all the ammonia and nitrite produced. Adding these supplements doesn't accomplish anything, except to cost money.

Thanks for clearing that up Alex, just another one for them to get my money :undecided:

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It's OK. There are tons of ads and people out there encouraging you to do this...this is how these companies make money anyway. :/

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Yep Stability says on the bottle to add it at every water change, hence why I've been doing it for years now haha.

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