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UKGoldFan

Small white spots on my goldfish fins and tail.‏

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Hello i am new to the Fish keeping hobby and i am loving it. Firstly my tank is 20 imperial gallons, and yes i am saving up for a much bigger tank as soon as possible.

Reacently i bought a small common goldfish, it seemed loanly so i bought another common goldfish from a different shop.

The new edition had one or 2 blemishes on his side, i thought maybe he was missing a scale or two. There is white spots on his fins and the more i do research on these little fellows , the more i grow concearnd of the new goldfish recently added.

He has salt like white spots on his fins, very small but noticable. He is feeding happly and very active. They both are.

My other goldie is fine and very happy. They both play/fight/try mating at feeding times.. I have tried to stop this by re-arranging the tank.

Anyway i am really worried it may be ich or fin rot, i cannot afford a camera yet to show you guys but i do need help/ advice on meds to buy how to give them it and quarenteen.

I do have another tank but it is only small, taking a guess it is 5 gallons, and it is un used.

My 20 imperial gallon tank has 2 common goldfish ( just found out they grow massive so am saving up for a second hand 50+ gallon)

Within the tank is some gravel , a filter, and some fake plastic plants.

The water is very clear, and has been treated before the fish entered this tank. Also the tank was not cycled , im doing it now with the two goldies inside.

Please help, if they die i will be so gutted :bye2:

Test Results for the Following:

  • * Ammonia Level (tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Nitrite Level (tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Nitrate level (Tank): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Nitrate level (Tap): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines): Cannot afford this test kit yet
    Other Required Info:
  • * Brand of test-kit used and whether strips or drops? Cannot afford this test kit yet
  • * What is the name and "size of the filter"(s)? Layal SK 9102
  • * What kind of water additives or conditioners? Chlorine controle
  • * Water temperature? 72~74 (Kept in a bedroom at room temp)
  • * How often do you change the water and how much? 2 times per week 25% only

  • * How many days ago was the last water change and how much did you change? Today, around 25%
  • * Tank size (how many gals.) and how long has it been running? 20 imperial gallons, 1 week.
  • * How many fish in the tank and their size? 2 common goldies, 1~2 inch
  • * What do you feed your fish and how often? Supa Daphnia , 3 times a day
  • * Any new fish added to the tank? Yes
  • * Any medications added to the tank? no
  • * List previous issues experienced (dropsy, SBD, etc.) New fish.
  • * Any unusual findings on the fish such as "grains of salt," bloody streaks, frayed fins or fungus? YES!!!
  • * Any unusual behavior like staying at the bottom, not eating, etc.? no
  • * List entire medication/treatment history for fish and tank. Please include salt, Prazi, PP, etc and the approximate time and duration of treatment. none
  • * You can really help us to identify with the concern more accurately if you post some pictures and a short video. Need a camera !!

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Is your goldfish suffering or resemble these traits?

Please post a picture, with advice. thank you

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This sounds like ick to me, but I need pictures because I don't want to give you the wrong information. And what you can do is take some water from the bottom of your tank and put it in a bag and take it to your local fish store and they can test it for you. Tell them what you need. And in another bag take some of your tap water and have them test that too. When possible, please post those results. And, if you have a phone try and get some pictures and send them to your email address. I will try and find the thread to how to upload photos for you. Good luck :)

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Can you please have the water tested by your local fish/pet shop? They will usually do this for free.

When cycling, it is extremely important to know your parameters. Secondly, because you are cycling, reducing food will reduce the ammonia production in the tank. In an overstocked cycling tank, you should be looking at water changes around 80% daily to every two days.

Are you able to purchase seachem prime, or Kordon water conditioner? These conditioners are great both tools for cycling, as they will detoxify up to 1ppm of ammonia for a period of time.

Are you able to borrow a camera from someone?

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Thank you for the fast response, I didnt know that they would test the water for me.

I will try to go down to the pet store as soon as possible with a bag of this water and tap water and post the results later.. thank you. :lol

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Thank you for the fast response, I didnt know that they would test the water for me.

I will try to go down to the pet store as soon as possible with a bag of this water and tap water and post the results later.. thank you. :lol

No problem :). Glad I could help. :welcome: have you posted in the new members forum yet?

Edited by mikeydude319

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This is not my fish but it resembles the white dots on its fins, there is no white spots on his body though...

And in this picture the white spots seem bigger, there isnt as much on one fin as shown here in this pic.

ich.jpg

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Here is some upsetting info i gust found.....is this correct?

Unfortunately, fish are susceptable to a variety of diseases, especially in the aquarium, due to the close proximity of other fishes. The most common disease encountered by fish is ich (pronounced ick). Ich, also known as white spot disease, is caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.

The ick parasite is round, covered by cilia (hair-like extensions), and about 1 mm in diameter and so it is visible to the naked eye.

The ich parasite burrows its way into the skin of the fish and feeds off the fish's blood. The gills may also be affected. In an ich infected fish you will see small white spots on the fish. The fish may act ill, with fins held close to the body, and you will often see the fish glancing off of rocks, presumably to dislodge the parasite, as they are irritating to the fish. If the gills are affected your fish will gasp for air.

After a few days of feeding on the fish's blood, the parasite bores its way out of the fish and forms a cyst in the tank. This is the reproductive stage, and when complete, about 1000 free-swimming young parasites are released. These are much smaller than the adult stage and are not visible to the naked eye.

This free-swimming form then seeks out a host, burrows into their skin, and the whole cycle begins again. In addition, because of the small size of the free-swimming stage, they are easily able to enter the gills of the fish. By the time you find white spots on the fish's fins and body the gills are usually already heavily infected with ich.

There are treatments available. Treatments work only for the free-swimming stage. So don't expect the white spots to disappear off your fish immediately. You will have to wait for these to fall off, form the cyst stage, and when the free-swimming stage emerges they will be killed by the treatment. While you are treating your fish for ich (described below) it is a good idea to turn the temperature in your tank up a couple of degrees. The ich life cycle moves faster at higher temperatures. In this way you'll get the cysts to the free-swimming stage much quicker and can kill them off.

It is important to treat the fish because ich can be fatal. It can also lead to secondary bacterial infections due to the irritation of the fish's skin.

If you go to any pet store that sells fish, you will find a wide variety of different brands and treatments for ich. Some of these seem to work better than others.

If you read the ingredients you will find that not all of them are using the same chemicals to treat ich. Some are formalin based, some contain malachite green or methylene blue, and some contain copper sulfate.

I once purchased some corydoras catfish for one of my aquariums from a pet store that didn't practice the best fishkeeping methods. Unfortunately, the fish had ich. I knew it was a possibility when I bought them, but I was planning on keeping them in their own tank with no other fish and so I thought that I could treat them. In fact, I thought I was "saving them" from the fate they would most likely encounter at the pet store.

I began treating them with a formulin based medicine. It didn't work and two of the fish died (there were 5 total). I did a partial water change and then used a copper sulfate solution and the ich problem cleared right up. In fact, I've used copper sulfate to treat ich many times over the years and it generally works for me. I use the Mardel brand. The other brands of copper sulfate (if there are any) are probably just as good for treating ich, but I've always had good luck in using the Mardel products to treat a variety of fish diseases. With the Mardel products, in most cases, you don't even have to remove the activated charcoal to treat your fish. This is usually true for all of their products.

This is the product that I use to treat my fish for ich.

After using the copper sulfate solution the remaining three catfish are living ich free to this day and it's been about 8 years now.

As an FYI - if you use copper sulfate in your aquarium, be sure to read the directions and don't overdose your fish. Also, some fish are overly sensitive to copper sulfate and don't do well when it is added. This is true for scaleless fish (e.g., Kuhli loaches, clown loaches, and some others). Invertebrates can't tolerate copper sulfate either and so don't use it in a tank where invertebrates are living.

You can also use a small amount of aquarium salt in your freshwater tanks to help prevent and cure ich. You can buy aquarium salt specifically made for freshwater fish, or you can buy uniodized salt at the grocery store. Don't use salt with iodine in it (iodized salt)!! It will kill your fish. I usually use about 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt for every 5 gallons of water. Keep in mind that if you have a 10 gallon tank that your rocks, heater, and other items in your tank take up some space and so you may not actually have 10 gallons of water. Also, salt doesn't evaporate and so when you replace water in your tank don't add more salt to it. You can, however, add more salt when making water changes (as long as it doesn't exceed the recommended salt level). Keep in mind that some fish don't tolerate extra salt as well as others (such as Bettas).

Doing partial water changes when treating your tank for ich is also a good idea. This is because it helps to reduce toxins in the water, as well as to remove some of the free-swimming ich larva. Just remember that if you remove water you are also removing some of the medicine from the tank. You will need to replace this, but don't exceed the total recommended dosage.

One way to help prevent ich in your aquarium is not to overcrowd the fish, don't overfeed them, and make sure you do partial water changes at least once per week. More frequent partial water changes are even better.

Another way that ich can be introduced into your tank is through plants. Only buy plants from pet stores and dealers that keep the plants separate from the fish. All too often you will see pet stores keeping their aquatic plants for sale in the same tanks they are keeping fish. If you buy plants from one of these tanks and put them into your tank you are putting your fish at risk. It is also recommended that when you buy new fish to use a quarantine tank until you make sure the new fish is healthy. However, this only works if you have more than one aquarium. Generally, a quarantine tank can be small (such as 5 gallons) and it will help protect your existing fish.

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Yep that's ich! Forunately ich or ick is the easiest parasite to treat for. It can be cured in a few days with harsher medication such as quick cure, or a few weeks with just aquarium salt and higher temperature water, around 78 -82f.

I would treat both of the fish together as this way you are insuring they are both recovered and tackling the free ones already in the tank. Please get those parameters for us. What's more worrisome than the ick actually is the cycling. That will be a little hard on them but will be fine with lots of water changes like Narny said :) We are here to help.

If it were me, I would choose a slightly harsher but quicker acting treatment to avoid the stress of fighting parasites and potential secondary infections combined with the stress of cycling, but that is a personal preference.

Edited by GreenTea

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I find API super ick ure works wonders :). I get my temp to around 80 degrees like GreenTea said and then I follow the instructions on the bottle.

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I find API super ick ure works wonders :). I get my temp to around 80 degrees like GreenTea said and then I follow the instructions on the bottle.

Since we don't have the parameters yet, remember that treatment recommendations should hold off until then :)

Depending on the parameters, adding medications into the mix might make the situation worse

Edited by Narny105

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I find API super ick ure works wonders :). I get my temp to around 80 degrees like GreenTea said and then I follow the instructions on the bottle.

mikey, without water params, we can't be suggesting meds.

at this point, without the water params, the No1 and best treatment being salt, cannot be used. salt causes ammonia levels to skyrocket. and since we do not know if you have ammonia in the tank, it's very risky business. we prefer salt as it is in there for a few weeks and assists in ridding ich more successfully first time around. other medicines are a few days here and there, but when the Ich cysts burst again, before you know it, there's another Ich outbreak. so salt and heat to 80-82F for the first week and then reduced to around 78F for the second is how we prefer to treat Ich.

how soon are you able to get a sample of your tank and tap tested at your nearest LFS? if it's tomorrow, then my best advice is to not treat with anything right now as you can be causing more harm than good.

the test results, we need the actual numbers, not "fine" and "ok", this does not tell us much and will only cause further delays with begining to treat. whilst you're at the shops, please see these two recommended products that work very well, as Narny suggested Seachem Prime, or Kordon Water Conditioner.

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When I said its ick, by the way, I was referring to the fish photo and article you posted. I was not attempting to diagnose your goldfish sight and parameter unseen. Those things are really important.

Edited by GreenTea

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    Test Results for the Following:
  • * Ammonia Level (tank):
  • * Nitrite Level (tank)
  • * Nitrate level (Tank)
  • * Ammonia Level (Tap):
  • * Nitrite Level (Tap)
  • * Nitrate level (Tap)
  • * Ph Level, (Tank) (If possible, KH, GH and chloramines)
  • * Ph Level, (Tap) (If possible

:)

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